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Lost dash gauges and radio after crossing battery terminals


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I crossed the battery terminals (dumb) installing the battery and now my dash gauges (speed, fuel, temp, oil pressure, and diagnostics/depth/cruise control, etc) and radio are not getting power.  I have power to the touch screen interface for controlling lights and the start and stop button, and the engine starts.   It seems like I popped a fuse or breaker since all gauges are flat dead and not just goofed up but I cannot locate a tripped breaker or burnt fuse.   The main breaker at the battery terminals was not tripped and all the under dash fuses in that fuse box are fine.   The only thing I am unsure of is the 40A F7 Main Breaker on the back of the engine block.  That is not a clear see through fuse and seems to have a reset on it that will not depress.  Does that signal the fuse or breaker is damaged?   I also cannot seem to find a replacement to purchase online.  Any ideas?

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Without knowing for certain I would doubt that you could start the motor if the engine 40a breaker was tripped.  You said you have power at the touchscreen.  Have you checked for incoming power at the other other computer modules under the cockpit? If you have power going to the modules than odds are greater that the modules were damaged which is pretty unlikely.  You will probably verify that indeed no power is coming in and it’s likely an upstream breaker/fuse.  And with a little luck you might even find a reset or maybe even the breaker/fuse itself.  

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Update.  I found the wiring harness plug into the box under the dash had some damage on two of the female recepticles.  but cleaned it up and reconnectrd and gauges now working.  BUT, bigger problem somewhere as my battery is getting rapidly depleted when connected even with main power off AND even while running the engine at skiing speeds the battery continues to RAPIDLY discharge.  From 12v to 10.5v in less than 10 minutes.   Bought a new battery, same result.  Also, radio not working.  Any ideas where to troubleshoot?  Two local dealers booked out for at least three weeks.  Argh.  I appreciate any and all input.

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At that discharge rate, something will get hot.  Maybe a thermo gun will help locate it.  Scan close to wires, connectors, and boxes to look for a temperature change from ambient.

This problem could be caused by a variety of things, most likely a protection diode or maybe a capacitor that shorted instead of opened, but it could be two wires that melted together.  If the thermo gun doesn't find it, you will probably have to disconnect everything and reconnect one thing at a time until you find the sparky one.  An ammeter could also help you as you root through the harness.

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Any reputable boat repair shop should be able to diagnose an alternator not charging, so no need for a malibu dealer or even a tow boat dealer. But this time of year, you may find the same scenario. 

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3 hours ago, MLA said:

Any reputable boat repair shop should be able to diagnose an alternator not charging, so no need for a malibu dealer or even a tow boat dealer. But this time of year, you may find the same scenario. 

For faster service pull off your alternator and take it to an alternator repair shop. Tell them it’s a boat alternator about four times.  They can check it or rebuild it. Before you remove it take pictures of all the wires and connections, that will help when you put it back on in a few days.

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