Budget stereo amp matching help

[Conrad86]

I’m upgrading the stereo. For tower speakers I’m going with the Kicker KMT67. Looking for advice with what amp to get to get the most out of these tower speakers. I’m looking for a two channel 600 W RMS. I don’t know what company to trust. Any advice or direction would be greatly appreciated. maybe  It would be easier to go with a four channel And bridge it.  Or can i get a single channel 600 w amp and wire for two pods? 

[shawndoggy]

Those pods are rated for 150w apiece. So with a 600w amp you need to be pretty careful. I’d think about one of these https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_158915_NVX-VAD8402.html

(never used but specs, reviews, and price are good)

[Conrad86]

I was in  under the impression they were 300 rms per pod and  150 rms per speaker called  kicker and clarified but I think I’m just gonna go with the marine 300 W 4 channel and Bridge it. 
 

Thanks for bringing that to my attention much easier to find something with 300 W RMS And cheaper.

[MLA]

RMS is per pod as each pod is wired internally as one speaker assembly with only a single pair of binding posts. So yes, the RMS is 150 p/pod. A sweet spot would be in the 200-250 watt rms, so an amp that has the potential to deliver 300W rms would be golden, just needs to be tuned very accurately. 

Although its listed as a 4 ohm nominal impedance, a multi-driver pod can actually dip well below that 4 ohm, and put a bridged amp in protect mode. 

[Texan32]

On 5/12/2020 at 10:02 AM, MLA said:

RMS is per pod as each pod is wired internally as one speaker assembly with only a single pair of binding posts. So yes, the RMS is 150 p/pod. A sweet spot would be in the 200-250 watt rms, so an amp that has the potential to deliver 300W rms would be golden, just needs to be tuned very accurately.

Agreed!  Over the years, ive read several "experts" say amps dont often deliver on their advertised numbers.  And, (especially subs) more failures occur from under driving than over driving the speaker.  You can always turn the amp gain down. 

On 5/12/2020 at 10:02 AM, MLA said:

Although its listed as a 4 ohm nominal impedance, a multi-driver pod can actually dip well below that 4 ohm, and put a bridged amp in protect mode. 

What causes this?

[MLA]

1 hour ago, Texan32 said:

Agreed!  Over the years, ive read several "experts" say amps dont often deliver on their advertised numbers.  And, (especially subs) more failures occur from under driving than over driving the speaker.  You can always turn the amp gain down. 

What causes this?

The more reputable brands will list real, actual industry standard tested RMS. Others, post unrealistic peak numbers. This is easy to spot when the amp's fusing does not jive with the stated wattage. Say its a 1000W amp yet it has a single 25A fuse. We know right off that aint happening. As you stated, you can always have the gain down, but you can only turn it up so much

Amps are designed to operate safely and make their power with a particular speaker impedance, or ohm. Most full-range amps are safe down to 2 ohm per chnl. When you bridge a pair of chnls, such using a 4 chnl to drive a pair of speakers, each channel then sees half the speaker's impedance. So when you bridge a 4 ohm speaker across 2 chnls, each chnl "sees" 2 ohm. So each bridged chnl is at its minimum impedance. The advertised nominal impedance is basically with the speaker at rest. Under load, a speaker's impedance varies.  When you take a multi-driver pod with  say, 2 mids, and tweeter and a cross-over, they have been know to dip very low ohm wise, while playing. More so then a single mid-base/tweeter speaker. So this very low impedance dip can enter a range the amp does not like, and it will go into a very brief protect mode. Usually at the higher volume levels when the amp is sending out its higher voltage levels. This will obviously very amp to amp, as they all have their real world tolerances to low impedance.