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2020 23' MXZ EZ Drive/Stern Turn Install Thread


djheywood

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Hi

I wanted to document my install of the EZ Turn system on my 2020 MXZ 23'.  I just took it out today for the first time, the system worked great and helps give you that needed nudge when you need it most.

I got a great deal on the group buy so I decided to tackle the project.  Having installed the GSA system on my 08 LSV, I was not overly concerned about the complexity of the install.  I tried to also take plenty of photos along the way to explain how I setup the system after discussing with Lee at The Yacht Group (this is the company that makes the EZ Turn)  I ran into a few issues, but I have to say, The Yacht Group was very responsive to the problems I encountered and came up with solutions quickly.

An overview of my setup.  I have two batteries on a 1/2/1&2/Off switch.  I decided to add a third battery on a Blue Sea Isolator (Model 7611) on the suggestion of Lee.  It allows the third battery to be charged when the main bank is getting a charge (when the engine is on) but disconnects them when the volts drops below 13.something. (I don't remember exactly) The other advantage is it basically allows for the amp hours to increase as the batteries are "connected" when the alternator is running.  The disadvantage is you see an effect on voltage when running the EZ Turn.  More on this later.

Here is my poor attempt at a wiring diagram, and my wiring and parts laid out.  I purchased most stuff from amazon, bestboatwire.com and my local hardware store. You will NEED a 1 3/4" Crows Foot. (Pic also included)  Without this marvelous invention I do not think I could have gotten the nut tight enough.  

Note: I am not an electrical guru and there is probably a better way to do this, but after doing some research, this was the best way I could find without replacing the alternator.

 

 

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Here is a close up of the Crows Foot.  I borrowed it from a mechanic friend.

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Edited by djheywood
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Great write up Brian, thanks for taking the time to do that.

Will be doing mine soon as well, your write should prove very helpful.

Edited by asnowman
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  • 3 weeks later...

 

What size was the ring on the terminal lugs for the 1/0 ga wire going into the ibox and onto the grounding bolt on the engine block?

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Thanks a good question.  In the ibox, you don't use a ring terminal, they insert directly into the terminal and are held in place by a set screw.  I used 1/0 ferrules on the ibox side.  As for the grounding bolt, I think I went with 1/2 but they may have been 3/8.  On the 3/8 ones I had to drill them out a hair, and I honestly don't recall if I drilled out the one for the grounding bolt or not.  Those lug connectors are cheap, i'd suggest getting a few of each size and just use the one that best fits your bolt.

 

Hope that helps.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/10/2020 at 1:21 AM, djheywood said:

Once that was cleaned up and the other supporting holes were drilled (2 through hull bolts on the port side and two lag bolt pilot holes on the starboard side.) and the unit was slid into place.  Using the Crows Foot I accessed the nut through the underseat storage of the little seats at the stern where you sit if you had your feet on the platform.  This access made my life much easier, or so I thought.  Turns out for my thickness hull there was not quite enough threads for the second locking nut to grab on.  The Yacht Group mentioned that in the past the shaft was too long, so they made it shorter, but in my case the available threads was not quite enough.  As a fix, they sent me a replacement purple thicker washer to replace the black rubber washer that came with my kit.  It is less diameter, so for those that have to grind like me, it means you have to grind less to get the washer to fit.  The also sent me a thinner nut to put on first, to allow more threads to be exposed so the locking nut can also be installed.  I don't have pics of this yet but will update when I do.  

The purple gasket was not in my kit, so I got Yacht Controller (YC) to send me the purple washer and the thinner nut for the shaft.  Both my grates were the same, and at my request they kindly exchanged the grates for an angled one for the wedge side.  That is an option I would recommend if you are ordering a kit.  .  Since I live in Canada, everything takes 2 or 3 weeks to get here from YC.    I installed the thruster (used 3m 4200 around the holes to make sure there will be no leaks) and went to put on the blue tube that goes over the wires coming out of the thruster.  Unfortunately, I must have got one of the old models with a long shaft, as the raw water intake is about an inch in front of the shaft, and I haven't been able to work the blue tube around that tight bend.  I was wondering about applying seem heat to make it more flexible, but don't know if it's heat shrinkable, and would shrink rather than just become more flexible.  Any suggestions? 

So for anyone doing an install  in the future, make sure you have the short shaft (you'll need the thinner 46 mm nut, which my kit didn't have), and there should be adequate clearance between the shaft and the raw water intake.   

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39 minutes ago, Alberta said:

The purple gasket was not in my kit, so I got Yacht Controller (YC) to send me the purple washer and the thinner nut for the shaft.  Both my grates were the same, and at my request they kindly exchanged the grates for an angled one for the wedge side.  That is an option I would recommend if you are ordering a kit.  .  Since I live in Canada, everything takes 2 or 3 weeks to get here from YC.    I installed the thruster (used 3m 4200 around the holes to make sure there will be no leaks) and went to put on the blue tube that goes over the wires coming out of the thruster.  Unfortunately, I must have got one of the old models with a long shaft, as the raw water intake is about an inch in front of the shaft, and I haven't been able to work the blue tube around that tight bend.  I was wondering about applying seem heat to make it more flexible, but don't know if it's heat shrinkable, and would shrink rather than just become more flexible.  Any suggestions? 

So for anyone doing an install  in the future, make sure you have the short shaft (you'll need the thinner 46 mm nut, which my kit didn't have), and there should be adequate clearance between the shaft and the raw water intake.   

Do you know the length difference between the two? Haven't started my install but sure seems like a rather long pipe so I might run i to the same issues.  I also don't have the purple template gasket..  just a black one.  I am guessing the purple one works better.

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The purple gasket is 2" in diameter, and the black one is 3-1/2", I think.  If you don't have enough room on the inside of the transom, and have to grind out where the transom joins the starboard stringer(?) you'll want the purple gasket.  The new kits have the purple gasket, a thinner 46 mm nut along with the regular thickness of the 46 mm nut (my kit had 2 46 mm nuts the same thickness).  The new kit also has 2- 1/0 ferrules for covering the 1/0 cable where it goes into the Ibox, but those are easy to source through amazon.  Yacht Controller will  send you the purple washer and nut (and I presume the ferrules) if you ask them, I think.  .  For my boat (2019 Axis T23) the raw water intake is pretty close to where the shaft comes through.  YC should be able to give you measurements of the short and long shaft on the standoff.  I don't know if they will swap them out, but the standoff with the shaft looks like it is a bolt on..

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Only thing I can add about the blue waterproof wrap is that it definitely doesn't like to bend, more kind of like it kinks like a hose.  It appears to be working fine on my boat, but I did find it odd to ship such a stiff waterproofing material, but that probably means it will do its job!

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Too bad I didn't realize the issue of the length of the shaft sooner.  I think your shorter shaft gives you the room to attach the blue hose where the longer shaft makes it difficult.  djheywood, where did you feed the control wires from the engine compartment up to the throttle?

Edited by Alberta
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10 hours ago, Alberta said:

The purple gasket is 2" in diameter, and the black one is 3-1/2", I think.  If you don't have enough room on the inside of the transom, and have to grind out where the transom joins the starboard stringer(?) you'll want the purple gasket.  The new kits have the purple gasket, a thinner 46 mm nut along with the regular thickness of the 46 mm nut (my kit had 2 46 mm nuts the same thickness).  The new kit also has 2- 1/0 ferrules for covering the 1/0 cable where it goes into the Ibox, but those are easy to source through amazon.  Yacht Controller will  send you the purple washer and nut (and I presume the ferrules) if you ask them, I think.  .  For my boat (2019 Axis T23) the raw water intake is pretty close to where the shaft comes through.  YC should be able to give you measurements of the short and long shaft on the standoff.  I don't know if they will swap them out, but the standoff with the shaft looks like it is a bolt on..

Just looked again.... looks like I do have the shorter shaft, purple round gasket (but the big square one on the outside is black) along with the thinner washer.  

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   Shaft is about 3-1/2".  2-1/2 inside the transom, plus the transom thickness of about 7/8", plus the black gasket on the outside in between the standoff mount and the transom 

Edited by Alberta
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  • 1 month later...

I have a 2019 Malibu 23LSV and I installed my EzDrive Thruster in May and have been using it this season. It is amazing! It makes life easier in so many ways. For example, when coming around to get a surfer you can use the thruster to turn the boat once you are close. It shortens the pickup time by about 1/2. 

I am pretty handy, but I am not a mechanic. I was able to do the install on my own in one day. Since I don’t usually work on boats it took me longer than normal. I was trying to be careful not to mess anything up! The scary part is cutting holes in the hull. As long as you measure it you will be fine.

A few notes on install:

Batteries: I have two batteries and the standard alternator and stereo. So far I have not had any problems with the low voltage warnings or battery drain. I find that I am not constantly using the thruster, it is usually used in short bursts. I also didn’t run the power all the way to the batteries. I used the positive post in front of the engine and I grounded (using 1/0) to the engine grounding post. I only needed about 7’ of wire.

Throttle: I replaced my throttle. It is awesome having it integrated. It was really easy to replace. Running the wire up the port gunwale was much easier than I expected.  

Mounting: This was probably the most tedious part of the install. Using the 1.75” doesn’t sit flat so some customization was needed. The instructions warn about this. It would probably be much easier to use a smaller washer and try to use a third pass through bolt. I also used marine sealant on the pass through elements just to be safe.

I have shared a link to some pictures and videos of my install.

Photos of install

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1 hour ago, walterlmitchell said:

I have a 2019 Malibu 23LSV and I installed my EzDrive Thruster in May and have been using it this season. It is amazing! It makes life easier in so many ways. For example, when coming around to get a surfer you can use the thruster to turn the boat once you are close. It shortens the pickup time by about 1/2. 

I am pretty handy, but I am not a mechanic. I was able to do the install on my own in one day. Since I don’t usually work on boats it took me longer than normal. I was trying to be careful not to mess anything up! The scary part is cutting holes in the hull. As long as you measure it you will be fine.

A few notes on install:

Batteries: I have two batteries and the standard alternator and stereo. So far I have not had any problems with the low voltage warnings or battery drain. I find that I am not constantly using the thruster, it is usually used in short bursts. I also didn’t run the power all the way to the batteries. I used the positive post in front of the engine and I grounded (using 1/0) to the engine grounding post. I only needed about 7’ of wire.

Throttle: I replaced my throttle. It is awesome having it integrated. It was really easy to replace. Running the wire up the port gunwale was much easier than I expected.  

Mounting: This was probably the most tedious part of the install. Using the 1.75” doesn’t sit flat so some customization was needed. The instructions warn about this. It would probably be much easier to use a smaller washer and try to use a third pass through bolt. I also used marine sealant on the pass through elements just to be safe.

I have shared a link to some pictures and videos of my install.

Photos of install

Interesting idea going directly to the terminal on the motor.  Curious to hear from others who understand electrical systems if there is a negative to this way of doing it (I only ask because I would have expected everyone to have done it this way vs. running it all the way to the batteries)  @COOP any thoughts on connecting to the positive terminal by the motor? Does look like a really huge gauge cable running from there to the batteries.  

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31 minutes ago, gregtay said:

Interesting idea going directly to the terminal on the motor.  Curious to hear from others who understand electrical systems if there is a negative to this way of doing it (I only ask because I would have expected everyone to have done it this way vs. running it all the way to the batteries)  @COOP any thoughts on connecting to the positive terminal by the motor? Does look like a really huge gauge cable running from there to the batteries.  

I wired mine directly to the motor as well, but I am also switching the helm so it doesn't activate without the power on.  I honestly don't see the difference, as that wire on the post at he motor runs directly to the battery switch, then directly to the battery.  As long as you have fused/breakered the the line, you should be good.

Edited by JeffK
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4 hours ago, walterlmitchell said:

A few notes on install:

Batteries: I have two batteries and the standard alternator and stereo. So far I have not had any problems with the low voltage warnings or battery drain. I find that I am not constantly using the thruster, it is usually used in short bursts. I also didn’t run the power all the way to the batteries. I used the positive post in front of the engine and I grounded (using 1/0) to the engine grounding post. I only needed about 7’ of wire.

Throttle: I replaced my throttle. It is awesome having it integrated. It was really easy to replace. Running the wire up the port gunwale was much easier than I expected.  

 

I have shared a link to some pictures and videos of my install.

Photos of install

Thanks for sharing great pics.

Question though, throttle cable up the port side, is that what we are supposed to do? Maybe thats why that long extension cable was in the box with the diverters when they arrived.

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15 hours ago, JeffK said:

I wired mine directly to the motor as well, but I am also switching the helm so it doesn't activate without the power on.  I honestly don't see the difference, as that wire on the post at he motor runs directly to the battery switch, then directly to the battery.  As long as you have fused/breakered the the line, you should be good.

I Agree with this.

 

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13 hours ago, asnowman said:

Thanks for sharing great pics.

Question though, throttle cable up the port side, is that what we are supposed to do? Maybe thats why that long extension cable was in the box with the diverters when they arrived.

We always run the throttle cable up the starboard side. 

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Yes, throttle cable is not long enough to go up the port side, around the bow and to the Driver's seat.  You need to go up the Starboard side.

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On 7/20/2020 at 1:38 PM, JeffK said:

I wired mine directly to the motor as well, but I am also switching the helm so it doesn't activate without the power on.  I honestly don't see the difference, as that wire on the post at he motor runs directly to the battery switch, then directly to the battery.  As long as you have fused/breakered the the line, you should be good.

@JeffK Where did you tap in the red +12v wire to get a switched power (hoping you mean the boat as to be powered up with the power button (AKA: ACC)?   I am going to try to tap in on the 

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I found something under the dash that was unused.  It was a 4 pin plug that was intended for something else.  I bought the matching plug on amazon and just pulled the power source form it so I didn't have to cut anything.  I know I asked someone about it, so I'm trying to find where I did.  

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4 hours ago, gregtay said:

@JeffK Where did you tap in the red +12v wire to get a switched power (hoping you mean the boat as to be powered up with the power button (AKA: ACC)?   I am going to try to tap in on the 

Going to tag you in the thread.  I ended up using that 4 pin labeled gray hill

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3 minutes ago, JeffK said:

Going to tag you in the thread.  I ended up using that 4 pin labeled gray hill

I happen to see the plug yesterday when I was looking around.. sat there wondering what "grey hill" was!  But good to know it is switched power, I might grab a connector and do the same. Thanks

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