New to me - 2001 Sunsetter LXI

[Steve B.]

21 hours ago, UWSkier said:

Do you have a gauge reading when it's running? And did you happen to use Teflon tape when you reassembled? 

Yes, dash gauge reads as normal when running. I didn't use teflon tape, and it's a new sender and switch. I noticed that the stem going into the block goes in quite far. I have tried removing the connector from the ECM sender while running but doesn't help. I think I had read that removing the connector might stop the alarm. Don't want to hijack this thread, very much appreciate the help.

Steve B.

[Badger]

Guys - I'm still paralyzed by what I need to use after I wetsand to get the scratches out and remove oxidation.  I've already spent multiple hours watching videos and reading old threads and still don't have a definitive answer for myself.  I found a really old thread from @obski that i will start with 1000 grit on the bigger scratches, move to 1500 grit and then 0000 steel wool.  From there, I'm planning on placing an order with Autogeeks.net to smooth the sanding marks and take the oxidation out of the rest of the boats

1.  I'm committed to using my Harbor Freight DA polisher.

2.  I will replace the HF backing plate with a 6" Lake Country hook and loop backing plate.  I can see the HF plate has a wobble.

a.  Do I need to start with a wool pad?

b.  What compound product to start with?

3.  I assume I will use foam pads at some point

a. Lake country has a "6 pack"  where you can order multiples by color or get 1 of each.  There's no way I'm going down through all 6 pads, so should I get 3 different colors?  2 different colors?

b.  What is my finishing polish?  I do have a bottle of 3M Perfect-It II Pad Glaze - Dark that I had previously used?  Probably a bad idea to use it on a white boat.

How fast do pads break down?  How many will I need to do 2 sides and transom of my boat?

Any help here would be appreciated.  I would like to place an order on Monday morning hoping I can have a shipment by mid week.

[gary_tenison]

Badger, I don't think I would go all the way to a wetsand.  I have polished several badly faded boats with the following equipment.  I bought all of the following items on amazon:

• Porter Cable variable speed polisher 6"  (7424XP). I think this is a great machine. Worked very well. $119
• Chemical Guys hex logic foam velcro backed 5.5" buffing pads. Get a mix of these...heavy, med, light buffing pads.
• Astro Pneumatic tool 4607 5" hook and loop backing pad
• Meguires Ultimate Compound 20 oz
• Meguiar's M6316 Flagship Premium Marine Wax

Watch some video on line and give it a shot. You can always go to a wetsand if needed but I really doubt that you have to go that far. 

[gary_tenison]

While you are polishing...you can also use steel wool to clean up the rub rail...and 0000 steel wool for final pass on rub rail before polishing. Also, strip the paint off the top of the windshield...if you just use some stripper on it you can just wipe off the paint and then use maguires mag alum polish to polish it to chrome level...its simple and made my boat look awesome.

[Badger]

On 5/7/2020 at 12:45 AM, UWSkier said:

The HDS is indeed that box, but there's not anything you can really observe from the outside.  You're looking at the bilge liner when you pull up that panel.  The HDS leaks between the bilge liner and the hull and forces water entry forward of the engine where the bilge liner ends.  If you aren't getting a bunch of unexplained water in the bilge when using the boat (look for usual suspects like packing and the raw water pump on first use), your HDS is probably fine.

As I'm replacing my steering cable that literally takes two hands to turn the wheel, I was wondering about the cause and came back to thoughts on the HDS.  Thinking that I should test it now before I put the the new cable in and the boat in the water for the first time.  I've read through 10 different threads but the best instructions I can find are "fill the boat the water to just below the carpet and see if it pours out the bottom onto the driveway".  I have a couple of questions to fully understand how the HDS leak allows water into the bilge area:

@UWSkierThe bilge liner that you mention:  Is the size of this liner much bigger than just the HDS box area and supposed to be sealed completely around the perimeter?  Then, on a properly sealed liner, then that would mean that the HDS cover would be the only point of entry into this sealed chamber?

Since the boat should theoretically be dry right now other than my pressure washing the carpet and rain through a non-waterproof cover, is there any reason I should take the cover off and fill water on the outside of the HDS bus and see if it is seeping in, to try and locate a crack?  Or could the actual crack be located away from the box itself and that why people add a shaft log, rather than fixing the crack?

Edited May 16, 2020 by Badger

[SkiPablo]

before you start filling the boat with water check to see if you are getting water in your trunk.  I was and I didn't know it and it was getting the bildge full of water.  It ended up being the silicone sealant under the rub rail.  I redid the last 2 feet of the stern on both sides with clear silicone and it's dry now.   It was dumping water in my boat when pulling my youngest son at like 18 mph.   Wasn't happening at slalom speeds.   Just a thought

[braindamage]

3 hours ago, Badger said:

Since the boat should theoretically be dry right now other than my pressure washing the carpet and rain through a non-waterproof cover, is there any reason I should take the cover off and fill water on the outside of the HDS bus and see if it is seeping in, to try and locate a crack?  Or could the actual crack be located away from the box itself and that why people add a shaft log, rather than fixing the crack

Why? Did the PO say they were getting lots of water in the bilge during operation? I’d run it and see. No sense troubleshooting something that might not even be a problem.

[Badger]

50 minutes ago, SkiPablo said:

before you start filling the boat with water check to see if you are getting water in your trunk.  

I haven't put the boat in the water yet.

7 minutes ago, braindamage said:

Why? Did the PO say they were getting lots of water in the bilge during operation? I’d run it and see. No sense troubleshooting something that might not even be a problem.

I totally understand this point of not creating more work than I already have for myself.  I was wondering if the steering cable that is almost frozen completely would be a symptom of a lot of water in the bilge area.  Since it's on the trailer in the driveway still, I'm thinking that would be a quick check rather than having to launch and then pull it back out later, while also submerging my new steering cable.

[UWSkier]

Could just be an old cable. That boat hasn't been used a lot. If your leak is the HDS you'll get water entry from your plug hole in the engine bay even with the plug in. That's an easy spot to check when floating. 

[braindamage]

I’m with @UWSkier. This era boats have a known issue with some of the steering cables. I wouldn’t tie together HDS and that.

[John I.]

Agree with  @braindamage and @UWSkier , the seized steering cable could be the result of any number of things, including age or inadequate drainage of the bilge over the years. I would not automatically assume a leak.

[asnowman]

I am with @Badger on this one, sort of. I don't think he steering cable and a possibility of an hds leak are related, but it only takes a few minutes to fill the bilge and check for the leak. Might as well do it, for piece of mind.

As for the steering cable, they all seem to go at some point, does seem to happen faster if the bilge is generally wet. Our 2011 needed it done last year.  Our 95 had it replaced right before we bought it. Not that hard to replace, makes a world of difference though.

[formulaben]

1 hour ago, Badger said:

I was wondering if the steering cable that is almost frozen completely would be a symptom of a lot of water in the bilge area.

For sure.  If there's enough water in the bilge to get up to the cable shaft, then each time the steering cable shaft moves inward it will draw in water and the accompanying bilge debris.  For sure getting the cable saturated with bilge water can kill the cable fast.

[UWSkier]

1 hour ago, asnowman said:

I am with @Badger on this one, sort of. I don't think he steering cable and a possibility of an hds leak are related, but it only takes a few minutes to fill the bilge and check for the leak. Might as well do it, for piece of mind.

As for the steering cable, they all seem to go at some point, does seem to happen faster if the bilge is generally wet. Our 2011 needed it done last year.  Our 95 had it replaced right before we bought it. Not that hard to replace, makes a world of difference though.

Reaching under the gas tank to change those things sucks.  :)

 

[asnowman]

35 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Reaching under the gas tank to change those things sucks. 

 

Good point. I have only done it in v drives so far.

[Badger]

OK, you guys convinced me not to fill my boat full of water.  I did have a productive day though as I swapped out the steering cable and installed Perfect Pass.  Both jobs went relatively well with a few small hiccups.  Also started a bit of wet sanding on the scratches and hope to dodge some raindrops tomorrow to finish the exterior.

[Badger]

So this happened on Sunday as I tried to dodge the rain in Michigan. 

[Badger]

I did not do a perfect job as I was trying to be time efficient and not thin out the wood too much.  I really only hit the show surfaces with the planer. It’s a little bit darker than I’d like but a million times better than it was with dark stain and polyurethane coating.  

[Eagleboy99]

6 minutes ago, Badger said:

I did not do a perfect job as I was trying to be time efficient and not thin out the wood too much.  I really only hit the show surfaces with the planer. It’s a little bit darker than I’d like but a million times better than it was with dark stain and polyurethane coating.  

Yikes!  That previous stain was horrid!  Who uses PU on teak?  I just run the belt sander over mine and the oil, although htis year I might try Teak Guard.

[blk93jeepzj]

Looks great!  Only recommendation that I have (since I also have a teak swim deck) is to not sand it anymore now that you have planed it and maybe take a stiff wire brush to it (with the grain) to give it a little more grip.  Once you add an oil or sealer to it they have a tendency to become slippery.  

[John I.]

The wedge access door on my '01 SSLXi opens the other direction, flips up towards the transom.  (pointless observation)  

[UWSkier]

4 hours ago, John I. said:

The wedge access door on my '01 SSLXi opens the other direction, flips up towards the transom.  (pointless observation)  

Better orientation IMO.  Otherwise you scrape your forearm on the latch bracket when you reach down to pull up the deployed wedge.  Ask me how I know. 

[Badger]

A couple of updates.  I’ve wet sanded and polished one side of the boat.  Still nervous as to how aggressive I can get with removing material.  I’ve gone from scratches that are extremely visible and definitely can feel with the finger nail to barely visible and can barely can feel.  There are a couple areas that I can’t feel at all anymore and thinking I could go back and polish more.  But would really like to finish up the other side today and get the boat in the water tonight or tomorrow morning.  It may be “good enough” for right now.  Pictures are trying to give a before and after of one area.  I didn’t do a good job of taking pics with good lighting.

[Badger]

This is a photo of a tracking fin mounting in my center ski locker with no washers or nuts.  Is this done intentionally so if the fin gets torn off, it doesn’t take a big chunk of hull with it?

[shawndoggy]

^^^yes