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New to me - 2001 Sunsetter LXI


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1 hour ago, Badger said:

Bought a SSLXI with 265 hours, 5.7L engine, very few options, boat was filthy, vinyl good, gelcoat scratches need to be reparired, oil pressure guage nor working (or there was zero oil pressure - that would be bad!), got a very good price, made it home safe with new tires, wife is happy!

sunsetter.jpg

Love the look of that era boat, and love the story of the adventure! 

More pics!

  • Like 2
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Congratulations! Classic color scheme (I used to own its twin, but a VLX) and a boat that will be perfect for your intended use.  

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Sharp colors!  Get that baby cleaned up and head for the water.

Does it have the Monsoon or is it carbed?  Either way, that's crazy low hours for a 2001 with the original engine.

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6 hours ago, UWSkier said:

Does it have the Monsoon or is it carbed?

Well....here's where my ignorance towards motors come in...I really don't know.  Honestly, going into this search, I didn't realize there still were carbed engines during that era.  The only label on the engine says GM Vortec.  I thought the silver bars on both sides of the engine were fuel rails, but now I'm second guessing.

Based on the photo, what do I have?IMG_1781.thumb.jpg.5a33ef1b1ace90ead7c374eb72c1160c.jpg

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It's a good thing that I like projects.  Here's what I have lined up so far:

1.  Perfect Pass Stargazer was ordered today.  Hope to have it by the weekend.

2. New steering cable  and impeller are getting ordered tonight

3.  I'm embarrassed by how filthy the cover was that came with the boat.  I power washed it this afternoon.  I won't use it very often since my boat stays under a canopy on the lift.  At some point, I'll have to decide if I want to replace it.

4.  As a casual woodworker, that platform will drive me crazy.  I will probably disassemble it to return it to it's teak glory.

5.  Still have to deal with the non-operational oil pressure gauge.

6.  Gel coat scratches - Here's where I need the most help.  There are quite a few scratches but none of them are extremely deep.  I've never done any significant work like this before and am a bit overwhelmed with all of the different techniques and products out there.  I have a 5 year old dual action polisher from Harbor Freight that I've never used.  I swear that there was a restoration thread here from a long time ago that went step by step, but I couldn't find it earlier today.  I did watch a couple of videos on YouTube this morning.  I will need to buy sandpaper but do have some light compounds from trying to take out scratches in cars by hand.

 

  • Like 1
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A couple more pics.  I've never followed the HDS threads closely because it didn't apply to me until now.  This was much more clean than I expected when I opened it.  Can I tell anything from it or need to wait until the boat was in the water.

I will also want to refresh some of the visible hardware that shows its age.  Struts also need to be replace on the trunk and glove box.  Any recommendations on where to buy those items?  

Lastly for now, the boat did not come with a wedge or plate.  I'm a little disappointed by that but wouldn't use it much anyhow.  If anyone can point me towards a used setup, I'll probably try to add it down the road.

IMG_1784 2.JPG

IMG_1782 2.JPG

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17 minutes ago, Badger said:

I swear that there was a restoration thread here from a long time ago that went step by step, but I couldn't find it earlier today.

I ran across this last week looking for the same thing.  Not sure if this is “the one”, but there looks to be some good comments in there. 

Good luck with the New boat!!! 

Edited by rakr
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Those scratches look fairly deep.  Would start with wet sanding, then go to wool pads or heavy cutting pads with something like the 3M family or Chemical Guys Boat Heavy.  You might not get them completely, but you can make them nearly invisible.

That's a Monsoon.  Bulletproof engines.

The Stargazer will be a great addition.

You could power wash that platform and it'd look great.

I have a Wedge foil I could sell you, but I'm not up for taking the bracket off my boat.  :)

The HDS is indeed that box, but there's not anything you can really observe from the outside.  You're looking at the bilge liner when you pull up that panel.  The HDS leaks between the bilge liner and the hull and forces water entry forward of the engine where the bilge liner ends.  If you aren't getting a bunch of unexplained water in the bilge when using the boat (look for usual suspects like packing and the raw water pump on first use), your HDS is probably fine.

Edited by UWSkier
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I'm a woodworker as well and when I bought my 01 lxi three years ago (with 260 hours) the platform was in sad shape.  Sagging in the middle and generally coming apart.  I disassembled it, re-milled the existing teak, and glued it back up.  It is solid as a rock now, and looks beautiful.  I was happy to be able to reuse the existing wood, not only for originality, but also because teak is $$!

Nice boat!

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@Badger - as noted by several, Fuel injected Monsoon so you have a great power plant.  For your oil pressure issue if you want to ease your mind, you could add a small pressure gauge right where either the oil pressure sender or the oil pressure warning sensor is and simply look at it to confirm you have pressure.  It would take a brass T and a gauge.  Or simply do a temporary electric one to an existing sensor, you would simply tie in to existing sensor.  Once confirmed, chase down the boats gauge issue.

I assume you started it up, if there was no oil pressure one could assume the alarm would have sounded, although I would not trust that as a definitive confirmation.

You probably already know, PP will be your best addition (for many reasons:-) ... 'happy spouse means happy spouse'

Since a sagging platform was mentioned, my Echy had a center support (RLX's have them also) which was not well engineered and missing so that is something to check if you keep your teak platform as they have less rigidity compared to a fiberglass one.  Retention screws were installed from top (for the obvious reason having them go through the fuel tank is not a great idea) and tended to allow the support to get pulled out easily.

Great looking boat, enjoy!

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I recall buying replacement struts directly from SPD several years ago. (BICBW)  I do know that I went slightly stiffer on the pair for the trunk and the engine cover. Closing the trunk took 2 hands for a year or two afterward, but well worth not having the lid slam down on my arm anymore while reaching for a ski.  

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Thank you for all the replies so far.  I hope to get some time today to get out and work on cleaning things up.  My perfect pass arrived in less than 24 hrs but unfortunately the adapter was for a carb engine.  They are sending me a replacement and I hope it will be here today!   I placed on order with Bakes for the steering cable, impeller and rear struts.  It looked like they only had a stainless strut for the glove box which was twice the price of other struts.  Also have a pick up order placed at Lowes for some 3M sandpaper and teak oil.

I appreciate the comments, product recommendations and video suggestions for the get coat repair.  I'm still a bit confused as to when people use foam pads versus wool pads and if I can use the 6" DA polisher for everything.  A lot of the polishers show them using a bigger buffer.  I have 1 wool pad from Harbor Freight and am guessing I quickly need to get some better quality replacements.  Just not sure what to buy?  Also, once I get to polishing compounds, is it true that I can hit the drip molded lettering and they actually might come out better, rather than being ruined?  Same for the rub rail or should I tape that stuff off - and what tape to use?  Videos use a 3M plastic tape but that doesn't seem like it will be easy to find locally.

Question regarding the struts for the engine box cover:  What is the real purpose for them?  My motor cover goes up past vertical so it stays up on it's own.  Is it not supposed to go that far?

Also, I want to hand clean some of the components on the engine?  What are people's go-to degreaser that I have around the house that won't affect rubber?  I don't think my wife will be happy if I use all the Clorox or 409 spray.  Paint thinner?  Dollar Store Awesome!  (or something like that?)

Edited by Badger
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