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DylanR

Rear right caliper sticking

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DylanR

Smoking a bit after going down the hill hitting hitting brakes before getting to boat ramp. What do I need to do? I’m not an excellent mechanic, but I know people that are lol. 
 

all opinions please... 

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Eagleboy99

I've had this issue in the past.  I did some reversing with the trailer, modulating the brakes and it seemed to help.

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DylanR

It has done this twice... doesn’t seem to do it anywhere else. I have made a 225 mile trip in between. First time it did it I thought maybe it was just from winter storage. After it doing it again yesterday same spot I’m going to have to figure it out. 2015 model trailer 

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ahopkinsVTX

How long is the hill you are going down and how hard are you braking?

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wdr
Posted (edited)

Dylan, If you are stuck somewhere and I have had to do this. Pull the caliper assembly off (2x 9/16 bolts) with everything intact and just ratchet strap (my quick fix) or otherwise attach it to the axle housing. That will get you to where ever you need to go. Once you get home order a whole new caliper (UFP) from somewhere and swap it out. I used etrailer.com IIRC. I bled the system with my cheap HF vacuum canister from that caliper also with no problems. My caliper had a bad rubber boot and it allowed water in to the cylinder area to rust and stick. 

Edited by wdr
Clarification

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DylanR

I’d say hill is a quarter of a mile... I’m not stuck thankfully..  it’s back home in the garage. I probably wouldn’t have noticed but my buddy saw it when I pulled in the parking lot. 
 

it only seems to happen with I go down that hill... hasn’t smoked anywhere else that I’m aware of. There is one other steep hill on my way to and from the lake but not as long. 

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wdr

It will only stick under braking load, like when the surge brakes activate going down hill and and then release if your lucky. Mine was sticking and would release just enough to not be noticeable, but enough to wear the pads down to nothing and then it locked completely when the cylinder reached its most rusty limit. I am a tire pressure nazi and rarely trailer more than 3 miles round trip so I was slacking on brake maintenance. I should of been doing a better job of keeping an eye on the pads and cylinders. Fortunately it is a cheap and easy fix.

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DylanR

Can I adjust the caliper to where either it doesn’t engage or doesn’t grab as much? That may be a dumb question... 

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wdr

Unfortunately no. I am afraid you have lost the with battle of heat and condensation. The cheap cost of these brake parts make it pretty much a waste of time to try and repair them. I would pull the caliper or give BM a call to confirm that that trailer does have UFP parts and just order the replacement caliper from some where. Bleeding the system is the hardest part of the job if you only have one person, but doable.

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DylanR
Posted (edited)

F4-E9-D470-770-D-43-DE-98-F9-420-CC78-D1

40-C883-EF-96-A6-4-FC9-9-D94-8-E9456-ECE

Looks awful to me... lol 

 

Edited by DylanR

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justgary
On 5/10/2020 at 8:15 PM, DylanR said:

F4-E9-D470-770-D-43-DE-98-F9-420-CC78-D1

40-C883-EF-96-A6-4-FC9-9-D94-8-E9456-ECE

Looks awful to me... lol 

 

Is that grease from the axle seal, or brake fluid from the caliper?  Looks like the axle from here. 

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DylanR

I have no idea... trying to figure that out 

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DylanR
On 5/4/2020 at 7:55 PM, wdr said:

Unfortunately no. I am afraid you have lost the with battle of heat and condensation. The cheap cost of these brake parts make it pretty much a waste of time to try and repair them. I would pull the caliper or give BM a call to confirm that that trailer does have UFP parts and just order the replacement caliper from some where. Bleeding the system is the hardest part of the job if you only have one person, but doable.

Does it look like the rotor is messed up??

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Texan32
Posted (edited)
On 5/11/2020 at 10:22 PM, justgary said:

Is that grease from the axle seal, or brake fluid from the caliper?  Looks like the axle from here. 

the top pic makes makes me think its grease.  I would definitely pull the hub, re-pack bearings and replace the seal(s).  I would also replace the rotors and pads on both sides of that axle.  You don't want one corner grabbing harder than the other three.  If you do both sides, at least the braking power of the new hardware is even side to side.  Rotors are porous and now that grease has dug into the surface, you would be hard pressed to clean it enough to make it right.

Im not sold on it being a caliper issue.  I suspect you lost the seal, got grease everywhere and that was burning off when your brakes applied.   But, if they arent too expensive, it probably cant hurt to swap it out while you have it apart anyhow.

Edited by Texan32

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wdr
2 hours ago, DylanR said:

Does it look like the rotor is messed up??

If those are grooves in the rotor and not grease streaks, then yes the rotor is toast. Replacing just the pads may get you through the summer, maybe. It would be best to check and replace the pads in all 4 corners while you are at it.  It does look like grease and not brake fluid. You can find what you need on line to the replace the brake assembly (UFP) and the hub assembly (Vault maybe?). The lugs in the rotor are splined and reusable, you will just have to smack them out of the old rotor and reseat them in to the new rotor when before you install it.  Good luck

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DylanR

I’m with you all 


With all that oil/grease on it I am thinking it could be a fluid leak instead...

I will further inspect 

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wdr

An auto parts place highly doubtful. An RV place maybe, a place that builds trailers most likely.

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DylanR

If the grease or oil for the hub is leaking what is the best way to check for the leak? 
 

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wdr

Clean it and run it to allow the fluid to be pushed out. It shouldn’t take too long for that to happen. If you aren’t low on brake fluid, which this doesn’t appear to be, then I wouldn’t even mess with a diagnosis and buy a new hub.

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DylanR
11 hours ago, wdr said:

Clean it and run it to allow the fluid to be pushed out. It shouldn’t take too long for that to happen. If you aren’t low on brake fluid, which this doesn’t appear to be, then I wouldn’t even mess with a diagnosis and buy a new hub.

it was very low on fluid 
 

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wdr

Sounds like you need the replace the caliper and the hub unfortunately.

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wdr

Same UFP DB 35 (RH) caliper except the cheaper one is in a zinc coating. Free shipping and save the $40.00, bonus! Don't forget to replace the rotor if it needs it and check the other pads.

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DylanR
16 minutes ago, wdr said:

Same UFP DB 35 (RH) caliper except the cheaper one is in a zinc coating. Free shipping and save the $40.00, bonus! Don't forget to replace the rotor if it needs it and check the other pads.

I didn’t see the free shipping on that one. I bought this one... took my chances on shipping from California in time for the weekend. Plus priced lower. 

Same one? 
https://www.pacifictrailers.com/products/trailer-buddy-ufp-db-35-disc-brake-caliper-zinc-plated-41050?variant=36463664010&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_term=&utm_content=340182651085&keyword=&utm_campaign=smart-all-test&gclid=CjwKCAjwwYP2BRBGEiwAkoBpAhTz6PSzB-t4ywfVTSy7AJsyriEjJyBbfmx7K4ZXpQaK4DK4QtX_XRoCzvwQAvD_BwE

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