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Leak help!!!


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So I have a leak! Haha

2014 247- we have started to get a significant amount of water accumulation in the bilge. Seems as though it’s only accumulating when the boat is in gear? 
pulled the boat, emptied as much of the water as possible through the plugs, replaced the plugs, filled the bilge with water (thought of what comes in goes out), no leaks on the under side. Emptied all the water... Put boat back in the water checked all the plugs, hoses, ect. No leaks... put boat in the slip completely dried out the bilge.. sat for 2 days with no accumulation. Took the boat out for an hr sunset cruise and we have water back in the bilge. The level is up past the drain elbow on the ballast tank at the driver observation port on a long day it will get to the point that the bilge kicks in multiple times... when the boat is running you cannot see any water dripping from anywhere... 

What’s everyone’s thoughts!? Our dealer is a minimum of 2 weeks out for service...

 We do have a dripless system although I cannot figure out what brand it is... the hose runs into a gold collar looking thing before the black hose and clamps (2 on top and 2 bottom)  
 

 

Edited by atomicrider13
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formulaben
51 minutes ago, atomicrider13 said:

Took the boat out for an hr sunset cruise and we have water back in the bilge.

Just an idle cruise or were you going fast?

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30 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Will it fill up if you start and run the engine or only in gear? 

Can you tell if the water is warm? 

Water def isn’t warm, and when the motor was on we couldn’t see any water leaking from anywhere

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formulaben

Do you have a shower?  Make sure mechanical valves are in OFF mode.  If you're POSITIVE it's not engine related (including shower and heater) then I'd offer these as possible culprits, although many seem unlikely based on the amount of water you're seeing.  If you're not sure then start the engine and use higher RPMs for a while to see if you can induce the leak.

  • Rub rail (bad seal)
  • Bow hook (seal at thru bolt holes)
  • Transom hooks (seal at thru bolt holes)
  • Rudder shaft seal
  • Prop shaft seal (shaft packing or dripless seal)
  • Water intrusion via cleats, blower exhaust vents, fender hardware, etc.
  • Water intrusion through wave action (surfing, wakeboarding, bad driving, etc.)
Edited by formulaben
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4 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Maybe  take the boat out of the water and fill the bilge while it is on the trailer?  You might detect the leak that way.

We did this... no leak 

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Check tracking fins and bow hook. Tracking fin on my dad's boat came loose a few years ago and let in tons of water. I had a loose bow hook on my Response this winter that did the same, though nothing like the volume you're describing. 

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formulaben

I agree, there's been a few threads on here with water coming from what you'd consider unlikely places like the bow hook, but the volume is what leads me to believe it has to be from the engine cooling and only at higher RPMs.  If you end up pulling it off the water again I'd start it on the Fake-a-Lake and idle for a while and after it's warmed up rev it up and see what happens.  If you get water inside the bilge it has to be engine cooling related.

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One of the most difficult leaks I've had to find was from a prop shaft dripless seal that would only leak when the boat was loaded and I accelerated quickly.  The bushings on the transmission mounts failed and would allow the trans and vdrive to lift up a few inches during acceleration and then a lot of water would leak into the hull from the dripless seal.  It would not leak at any other time.

  • Like 2
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The rub rail is a very distinct possibility, and it's easy to run a garden hose along the underside to see if you can get water in that way.

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Ok so we figured it out... it’s the raw water pump, have a new one (impeller, gaskets ect all new) on the way. I was told it’s an easy “plug and play” process. Nothing on that side of the engine is easy haha! 
does anyone have any experience replacing the raw water pump?  

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51 minutes ago, atomicrider13 said:

Ok so we figured it out... it’s the raw water pump, have a new one (impeller, gaskets ect all new) on the way. I was told it’s an easy “plug and play” process. Nothing on that side of the engine is easy haha! 
does anyone have any experience replacing the raw water pump?  

You can change the seal in the pump in a few minutes.  Don't junk your old one; repair it and keep it as a spare.

 

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took me MAYBE, 1 hour at the most last summer to replace mine.  Pop the two raw water hoses off, unbolt from the arm bracket, remove 3 allen heads.  There is no reason to remove the impeller on the old or new.  Assuming the new one came with a new impeller inside?  mine did.

 

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Removing the 3 allen heads can be difficult- I needed a buddy to help hold the belt from turning.  You should use some sort of loctite on the ends of the bolts when you put them back in.  I used blue (242) because what I read told me that it would help stop the bolts from loosening due to vibration but still allow them to be removed again easily enough; the red stuff might keep the bolts locked in forever-ish.

You should NOTE THE ORIENTATION of the pump and bolt holes as it comes off the crank thing on the engine side.  I think if you don't rotate anything tho it should be OK.

Also, it was easiest for me to remove the engine hatch for access to the pump.  

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I changed mine out and rebuilt my old one last week.  My bolts weren't terrible to get off with a long arm allen wrench.  Was able to grab the pulley with left hand and break loose with right.  Old pump popped right off without any needed encouragement.

Rebuilding the old one is not too bad.  20 minute job if you have a vice.

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