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braindamage

Heater for TXi

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braindamage
Posted (edited)

I took both the std and hot tubes apart. I think I can cut the one end and then combine them into 1-17” tube, which should be enough to hold 15’ of flex tube. 
 

edit. Here’s a prototype with 12’ of tube inside. Just with a little duct tape for help

or... I could just go buy PVC.

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image.jpg

Edited by braindamage

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braindamage

If I make an extended tube for all 3 I think I’ll be good. For the back, I’ll exit just past the drivers seat from the inside of the driver’s shelf. I’ll either route the tube inside the shelf (I lose my cup holder), or I elbow out then back in around the cup holder, or I just run pvc along the outside edge floor and then angle in past the cup holder.

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UWSkier
24 minutes ago, braindamage said:

If I make an extended tube for all 3 I think I’ll be good. For the back, I’ll exit just past the drivers seat from the inside of the driver’s shelf. I’ll either route the tube inside the shelf (I lose my cup holder), or I elbow out then back in around the cup holder, or I just run pvc along the outside edge floor and then angle in past the cup holder.

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No way in the TXI of running that up along the gunnel behind the throttle assembly?  You don't have throttle cables or a stereo sitting in there like you had on the LXi.

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braindamage
16 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

No way in the TXI of running that up along the gunnel behind the throttle assembly?  You don't have throttle cables or a stereo sitting in there like you had on the LXi.

2 issues:

1) the gunnel a lot skinnier and the plastic housing is too big for the gunnel

2) the only space to route above is crowded by where I mounted my cleat as well as a lot of wires. I don’t thing it’ll go through, and if it does, it’ll puncture quickly

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dalt1
8 hours ago, braindamage said:

I took both the std and hot tubes apart. I think I can cut the one end and then combine them into 1-17” tube, which should be enough to hold 15’ of flex tube. 
 

edit. Here’s a prototype with 12’ of tube inside. Just with a little duct tape for help

or... I could just go buy PVC.

34939DF4-A34A-4D4F-B13F-C19945AF03F5.jpeg

image.jpg

You can buy 4" flex tube at your local heat and air supply house by the box. It will have more tube than you can use on your next 2 boats. I changed out the 6 foot tubes in my last 2 boats with much longer pieces. Had to buy new grill face as there is no way to take apart original (glued) to swap tube. Crammed what I could fit in standard can. This is the results.image.thumb.png.d3b5314949df764e43d41ec159a400bf.png

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UWSkier

Holy crap!  You fit all of that into a Heatercraft heat tube without it popping back out all the time?  I have a heck of a time stuffing the 6' tube into mine.

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braindamage

@dalt1.  I agree.  after sleeping on it, I think I'll use my one-modified vent tube (it's practically finished anyway) for the rear and just buy more vent tube and cram it in the standard tubes for the other 2.  @ahopkinsVTX said he got 10' in his, which is enough.

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ahopkinsVTX

I did? lol

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dalt1
1 hour ago, braindamage said:

@dalt1.  I agree.  after sleeping on it, I think I'll use my one-modified vent tube (it's practically finished anyway) for the rear and just buy more vent tube and cram it in the standard tubes for the other 2.  @ahopkinsVTX said he got 10' in his, which is enough.

The white tube I used may have been a bit lighter duty than the heater craft tube. Both bend when someone steps on them anyway. I never had any issues from the white.

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braindamage

Today’s the day. First hour I removed the seat, one of the seat sliders (it kept goosing me), the drivers side shelf, and kickplate. Normal searching for screw heads in the carpet. I couldn’t find the ones mounting to the floor so I used a pry bar for a bit of persuasion.
Now to vacuum and then to fishing the supply hoses.

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braindamage

2nd hour...fishing the water hoses. The first went in easy -less that 2 mins. The second took the remaining 58+ mins. There’s a 2” tube that feeds both hoses and a bunch of wires. Each is about 3/4” diameter. I finally fish taped through, then put the tape inside the hose and inched it in. 
time for another cup of coffee!

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braindamage

All plumbed except for the supply. I hate this stupid 3/8” Allen plug. Why don’t they use a square head plug like the return?

off to the store to buy an Allen socket and a couple hole saws

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ahopkinsVTX

Lots of space! Nice work!

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Eagleboy99

Are putting the low idle Wye in?

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braindamage
1 hour ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Are putting the low idle Wye in?

Nope. I’m using @UWSkier “little pump”

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braindamage

Electrics all in and everything works. Now for a water test for my plumbing 

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UWSkier
4 minutes ago, braindamage said:

Nope. I’m using @UWSkier “little pump”

hey now

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braindamage
Posted (edited)

WE HAVE HEAT!!! And NO LEAKS!

now to route the hoses. Attached is what I think I’m going to do. One emptying into the walkway, another above it exiting on the left side of driver. And the 3rd mounted alongside the shelf.

im going to leave undone for tonight, take it for a sunset cruise and see how it feels

B8CE092E-20C0-4727-98D9-4C1D55CDF2ED.jpeg

Edited by braindamage

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braindamage
Posted (edited)

Sorry for the delay. Here’s an update:

installed the heater and took for an early am ski. It ROCKS!! The 3 port is so much more than the 230

edit. Added pic, but the flash wouldn’t work so it’s pretty dark. I’ll take another and post later

the tube into the walkthrough was perfect for keeping our towels/clothes warm while skiing, the port exiting the driver’s left leg was plenty long to do to spotter, and my looong vent on the right kept the driver warm. 
I did have a couple issues

1) I got an alarm that was quick to quiet, but it was still there.

2) at one point it was blowing air temp, so I wasn’t getting any flow through the coils. After turning the engine in/off it was blowing hot again.

3) while taking a coffee cruise at idle the temp went up to 185-190. When I shut off the heater, it would Cool back down. It would also cool if I increased the rpm. It would settle the in at165-170, which is about 5-10 deg hotter than normal. This happened every time I cycled the heater on.

not sure if I have an air gap or what. Thanks @UWSkier who connected me to a couple threads that look promising.

 

5FAC963B-93A5-42F9-8F96-2660BA163C75.jpeg

Edited by braindamage

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braindamage
Posted (edited)

Update. While returning from a friends bonfire I did some experiments.

below ~1000 RPM: heater blows hot, engine temp climbs about 1deg/5sec

at ~1000 RPM: beater blows air temp, engine temp stable

abive ~1000 RPM; heater blows hot, engine temp stable at 160

is there something in the ECM that increases water flow above ~1000 rpm?

Edited by braindamage

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BlindSquirrel
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, braindamage said:

Update. While returning from a friends bonfire I did some experiments.

below ~1000 RPM: heater blows hot, engine temp climbs about 1deg/5sec

at ~1000 RPM: beater blows air temp, engine temp stable

abive ~1000 RPM; heater blows hot, engine temp stable at 160

is there something in the ECM that increases water flow above ~1000 rpm?

Only thing that increases water is the thermostat. ( controls itself ) Luckily it’s easy to get to!

Edited by BlindSquirrel

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justgary
2 hours ago, braindamage said:

Update. While returning from a friends bonfire I did some experiments.

below ~1000 RPM: heater blows hot, engine temp climbs about 1deg/5sec

at ~1000 RPM: beater blows air temp, engine temp stable

abive ~1000 RPM; heater blows hot, engine temp stable at 160

is there something in the ECM that increases water flow above ~1000 rpm?

This is your heater return hose, right?  And you don't have your pump pushing water the wrong direction?

396444A8-05BD-4D15-9ECE-D6DC27EAFD19.jpe

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UWSkier

You can test pump direction pretty easily. Remove supply hose from engine and turn on your pump with the engine off. If water doesn't bubble out, it's backwards. 

But I think your issue is the typical ETX Cat issue that needs a replumb. 

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braindamage
5 hours ago, BlindSquirrel said:
2 hours ago, UWSkier said:

You can test pump direction pretty easily. Remove supply hose from engine and turn on your pump with the engine off. If water doesn't bubble out, it's backwards. 

But I think your issue is the typical ETX Cat issue that needs a replumb. 

 

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braindamage
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, UWSkier said:

You can test pump direction pretty easily. Remove supply hose from engine and turn on your pump with the engine off. If water doesn't bubble out, it's backwards. 

But I think your issue is the typical ETX Cat issue that needs a replumb. 

It was backwards. Re-plumbed correctly...No joy. Now no heat and climbing engine temps. 
I had the pump plumbed on the return side of the heater. Rerouted to supply side. No difference.

i may have fried the pump

Edited by braindamage

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