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PCM 6.0 Monsoon 409 - Factory Shower Connections


Reider

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I have an idea where to connect my water supplies. I am curious anyone out there that could trace out their shower connections and shoot me pictures. I’m going to DIY this and wanted to get some ideas going.  I’ll post my project after complete. Thanks 

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I am also looking to do this on my boat....mine has the PCM 6.0 ZR409 engine. Its the partial closed cooled engine so I cannot use hot water line to heater since heater is part of my closed cooled system.

My thought was too use one of the engine drain plugs as hot water location (either exhaust riser or heat exchanger), that way I can just screw in a fitting rather than cut into a hose using a T. On the cold side I am thinking I may tap into one of my ballast lines, but have not looked closely at my engine to ensure that will work. I am guessing I wont have enough pressure to skip adding a new pump to pull the hot/cold water to the mixing valve. I was thinking initially I may just hook up the hot water side only and see how it flows since I really am just looking for some hot water access for when we surf in late fall and early Spring to warm up wetsuit and comp jackets. That may not work at all, but planned to try that first before spending money on another pump/wiring/etc.

Did you buy a full shower kit? 

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I think I found where I’m going to connect. mine is a raw water set up. There is a 5/8 water line that gets T’d to the dripless drive shaft seal.  I’m going to T that for the cold. And my hot water I’m just going to T the U- tube that would normally be used for a the boats with a air heater.

 

no I am not going to buy a kit. I’ll piece together my own kit a shower mixer off e-trailer. Buy a 12v RV demand pump and a toggle switch.  The hoses and Ts are stocked at auto parts stores.  I plan on using a 25 ft pocket hose and a garden sprayer.  
 

I want to use the shower for the kids to play with, warm water for cold skis and rinsing down the boat for long trips on the water 

Edited by Reider
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9 hours ago, Reider said:

And my hot water I’m just going to T the U- tube that would normally be used for a the boats with a air heater.

If you have closed cooling, that hose does not have raw water in it, it has antifreeze.

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ahopkinsVTX
1 hour ago, justgary said:

If you have closed cooling, that hose does not have raw water in it, it has antifreeze.

If the OP has the Crusader by PCM engine, the standard setup is 100% raw water cooled. It did have the option to be semi closed cooling but I don't think very many boats were optioned with that.

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Ya I’m all water 

4 hours ago, justgary said:

If you have closed cooling, that hose does not have raw water in it, it has antifreeze.

yup I’m all water. Can you believe they didn’t even put a sea strainer on?? Unbelievable. I cut one in just on a couple hours there is crap floating around in the strainer.  I’m shocked 

 

I cut in the Indmar sea strainer. So far happy with it.  Also it allows for easy land starting because it features a garden hose connection 

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Nice! I have a Perko, so no strainer included on mine but I am able to use a hose to feed water. Its so nice to be able to fire up using a garden hose. Its also an easy way to suck/pump AF into engine during winter when needed to winterize

I will be piecing my shower together from different parts too. I am not liking the mixing valve I currently have, think I will check out the one you referenced on e-trailer. I have heard of others tapping into the hose for the shaft, that is a good idea. Thinking I will tap into a ballast hose somewhere between the thru hull and the ballast pump, its right next to where I am already working on the shower so easy access. Good luck on your install

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/28/2020 at 10:41 PM, Infinitysurf said:

I am also looking to do this on my boat....mine has the PCM 6.0 ZR409 engine. Its the partial closed cooled engine so I cannot use hot water line to heater since heater is part of my closed cooled system.

My thought was too use one of the engine drain plugs as hot water location (either exhaust riser or heat exchanger), that way I can just screw in a fitting rather than cut into a hose using a T. On the cold side I am thinking I may tap into one of my ballast lines, but have not looked closely at my engine to ensure that will work. I am guessing I wont have enough pressure to skip adding a new pump to pull the hot/cold water to the mixing valve. I was thinking initially I may just hook up the hot water side only and see how it flows since I really am just looking for some hot water access for when we surf in late fall and early Spring to warm up wetsuit and comp jackets. That may not work at all, but planned to try that first before spending money on another pump/wiring/etc.

Did you buy a full shower kit? 

How did you go?  I have the same setup.  I am just assessing my boat water connections with a DIY kit and trying to figure out the best places for cold and hot.

Cold looks easy - bottom of the heat exchanger drain plug.  Hot looks like the port side exhaust at the top of the engine.  A "T" required there.

Let me know if you want me to post photos (pre-install)

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I actually just hooked into one of the lower exhaust riser drain lines to pull hot only. It works good enough for now. When I have more time I may go all the way so I have a full shower, work is just too crazy for me right now to spend much time on the boat.

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Here are some photos and notes of my LSV (Monsoon 6.2) half closed system.  I am just at the stage of designing a DYI hot water shower.  Questions and comments are welcome.

The shower install requires that a mixer and pump be installed into the boat.  The mixer requires both hot and cold water supplied from the boat’s cooling water system.  The Malibu 6.2l monsoon is equipped with a heat exchanger which means there is a partially closed cooling system for the engine cooling which is fed by the heat exchanger which acts as a radiator.

The heat exchanger draws cold water from the lake and pumps it up through the exchanger.  

The closed engine cooling system for the engine circulates hot coolant from the engine, down the heat exchanger (where it exchanges heat with the upward flowing cold lake water) and then back into the engine to repeat the flow.

The main components of the system are the fresh water intake and the heat exchanger.

1 Cold in

 

Photo 1 - Front of Engine

Looking down on the front of the engine (under the rear seat), we can see the “fresh” or cold water intake on the left.  This is a through hull fitting which then goes up over the transmission and down through the strainer to the transmission cooler.  Just below the strainer is the hose to the side of the boat where the garden hose connecter is located.  This hose provides the fresh water rinse for the fresh water cooling system – including the heat exchanger.  The cold water shower input could be tied in to the transmission cooler discharge line shown on the left of the photo.

 

2 heat exchanger

 

Photo 2 - Back of Engine (Heat Exchanger)

From the transmission cooler exit at the front of the engine, the water runs to the back of the engine through an impellor driven water pump and then up into the heat exchanger.  The bottom of the heat exchanger has a drain plug that could provide the inlet for the cold water shower (This location might be easier than the previous identified transmission cooler exit).

 

3 top of engine - hot

Photo 3 - Top of Engine

From the top of the engine you can see the main inlet to the top of the heat exchanger for the closed cooling system.  Next to that inlet is the fresh water exit from the exchanger which splits the water to two exhaust lines – one for the starboard exhaust manifold and one for the port manifold.

The port exhaust water line would provide a possible tap for the hot water shower inlet.  Another poster mentioned that an alternate hot tie-in point would be at the exhaust manifold drain (where this line goes to).  That would only require a   threaded 90 with a nipple.

 

 

Edited by donjoz
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On 6/10/2020 at 2:10 AM, donjoz said:

How did you go?  I have the same setup.  I am just assessing my boat water connections with a DIY kit and trying to figure out the best places for cold and hot.

Cold looks easy - bottom of the heat exchanger drain plug.  Hot looks like the port side exhaust at the top of the engine.  A "T" required there.

Let me know if you want me to post photos (pre-install)

Heater connection. Had a 5/8 to 3/4 u tube here

Cold water T

 

Hot water connection and 3/4 cap

 

Backside of rear panel compartment

Front side compartment panel

 

Since I don’t have a heater. I used the heater connection to pull hot water.  I put a 3/4 heater hose cap on the other port of heater hose connection.  
 

For the cold I cut into a 5/8 heater hose that feeds the drive shaft shower.  I used a 5/8 heater hose T and that provided me with cold.  
 

I have a completely raw water motor 

 

now with my hot and cold 5/8 hoses I ran them to a RV shower mixer, then to a RV 12 Volt demand pump on a toggle,  then to a 25 ft silver bullet as seen on TV hose with a garden type nozzle on the end of it  

To power the 12v pump, I used a female spade connector to the backside of my circuit relay buss near the driver seat labeled shower.   
 

The fittings I used for the 1/2 to 5/8 push on and the 1/2 to hose were all purchased online. Home Depot didn’t carry them

 

 I’m happy with install   Super quiet

Kids love it and it gives me opportunity for hosing down the boat for extended lake trips

 

This write is poor- it’s too hard for me to do from on a iPhone  will update on post on PC ASAP 

 

Edited by Reider
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