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DOJOLOACH2

Throttle safety catch is bypassed

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DOJOLOACH2
Posted (edited)

On my 97 echelon I have both the Killswitch lanyard bypassed (still have lanyard on there for disguise) , and also my throttle safety is bypassed such that I can go from forward to reverse without having to pull the rubber cup up withy fingers. 

Any idea how this throttle mechanism works? I'm ok with Killswitch but I can see someone stumbling and accidentally hitting throttle.

 

Edited by DOJOLOACH2

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justgary
3 minutes ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

On my 97 echelon I have both the Killswitch lanyard bypassed (still have lanyard on there for disguise) , and also my throttle safety is bypassed such that I can go from forward to reverse without having to pull the rubber cup up withy fingers. 

Any idea how this throttle mechanism works? I'm ok with Killswitch but I can see someone stumbling and accidentally hitting throttle.

 

Funny you mentioned it.  I just had a conversation today with @oldjeep about that, so I went out to my boat and tested it.  I don't need to lift the ring to go into forward, but I do need to lift the ring to shift to reverse.  I think it's mostly that way to keep somebody from shifting to neutral (decelerating from speed) but going past neutral into reverse.  That's bad, and can chili dip the bow and throw everybody forward very quickly.

If your throttle ring is stuck, consider taking it apart and changing the broken spring.  I don't think it's the mechanical nightmare that the new ones seem to be.

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DOJOLOACH2
10 minutes ago, justgary said:

Funny you mentioned it.  I just had a conversation today with @oldjeep about that, so I went out to my boat and tested it.  I don't need to lift the ring to go into forward, but I do need to lift the ring to shift to reverse.  I think it's mostly that way to keep somebody from shifting to neutral (decelerating from speed) but going past neutral into reverse.  That's bad, and can chili dip the bow and throw everybody forward very quickly.

If your throttle ring is stuck, consider taking it apart and changing the broken spring.  I don't think it's the mechanical nightmare that the new ones seem to be.

I wonder what the chances are I just need to unscrew the ball on top to access the spring haha... I suppose it's a super special spring too!

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justgary
59 minutes ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

I wonder what the chances are I just need to unscrew the ball on top to access the spring haha... I suppose it's a super special spring too!

Not on that throttle....

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DOJOLOACH2

So if I wanted to test it assuming a broken spring, I could push down on the cup/collar that is supposed to be spring loaded, then see if throttle switches gears?

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justgary
1 minute ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

So if I wanted to test it assuming a broken spring, I could push down on the cup/collar that is supposed to be spring loaded, then see if throttle switches gears?

Yes, exactly.  I suspect it will work. 

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DOJOLOACH2
27 minutes ago, justgary said:

Yes, exactly.  I suspect it will work. 

10-4, will update tomorrow on my findings

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UWSkier
19 hours ago, justgary said:

Funny you mentioned it.  I just had a conversation today with @oldjeep about that, so I went out to my boat and tested it.  I don't need to lift the ring to go into forward, but I do need to lift the ring to shift to reverse.  I think it's mostly that way to keep somebody from shifting to neutral (decelerating from speed) but going past neutral into reverse.  That's bad, and can chili dip the bow and throw everybody forward very quickly.

If your throttle ring is stuck, consider taking it apart and changing the broken spring.  I don't think it's the mechanical nightmare that the new ones seem to be.

Assuming your setup is the venerable Morse MV-2, that shouldn't be the case.  There should be a notch at top dead center that the rocking pin mechanism engages with at neutral.  You should not be able to go to forward or reverse without "lifting the cup" which rocks the pin out of the notch.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/MV2-instruction_manual.pdf

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YourNewBoat
On 4/24/2020 at 3:57 PM, UWSkier said:

Assuming your setup is the venerable Morse MV-2, that shouldn't be the case.  There should be a notch at top dead center that the rocking pin mechanism engages with at neutral.  You should not be able to go to forward or reverse without "lifting the cup" which rocks the pin out of the notch.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/MV2-instruction_manual.pdf

I've got the Morese MV-2 setup on my Malibu...  Had a new shift and throttle cable put in over the winter and when I put it in the water this spring I noticed that the cup/collar no longer needs to be lifted to go into forward or reverse...  I've got younger kids and want to reconnect this safety feature.  Does anyone have any knowledge on how this is done?  The boat runs fine and shifts easily.  Just want to make it so the cup/collar has to be lifted again....

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UWSkier
44 minutes ago, YourNewBoat said:

I've got the Morese MV-2 setup on my Malibu...  Had a new shift and throttle cable put in over the winter and when I put it in the water this spring I noticed that the cup/collar no longer needs to be lifted to go into forward or reverse...  I've got younger kids and want to reconnect this safety feature.  Does anyone have any knowledge on how this is done?  The boat runs fine and shifts easily.  Just want to make it so the cup/collar has to be lifted again....

The MV-2 is a serviceable unit.  Check out the link to the PDF and see the last page for part numbers and a diagram.  Check that the handle still has the linkage hooked into the cup and that it still moves the locking tab when you pull up on the collar.  You might just have to take off the handle and mess around with it a bit.

As an added safety measure in the meantime, any time you're getting up out of your seat, you can pull the neutral button.  That way, even if a kiddo bumps the throttle, it can't go into gear.

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YourNewBoat

Dove into the Morse Throttle Control Lever this afternoon..  Wasn't as bad as I was expecting...  The lever comes right off with a 4mm allen wrench at the set screw on the base of the lever...  My spring that is at the base of the control lever that is suppose to push a key into a slot to keep the lever from accidentally going into gear is a bit worn and needs replaced.  Also the key and slot has some worn edges from the amount of use the boat has had...  Too bad this part isn't manufactured anymore.  It could be a very simple plug and play..  Hoping to find a suitable spring to replace it with at an auto part or hardware store...  Anyone else attempting this, be very careful as not to break the plastic collar that the linkage goes into.  I'm guessing that's not an easy find for replacement.

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