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New Engine time!!


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nice thread and thank you for sharing!!  Might want to let others know what trailer you have since trailer designs differ to fit that cherry picker.  Surprised Michigan Motorz didn't get you a deal or match, 4 hour drive north might have saved you shipping/crate $?

Also might be a great time to replace that damper plate for grins.

Edited by hawaiianstyln
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@mgb1974 - From the description (and the one on the Summitt site) I would assume the requisite brass core plugs are used, looks like they refurbish Merc's for this.  One thing I would do prior to install is to compare camshafts between the two engines.  Looking at the cam specs, in the question section on the Summitt site, they look close to the GM marine cam.  Also, do a visual on the exhaust manifold gaskets to make sure you port match them.  If you are bumping up from a 350, you will like the extra displacement.  Have fun & nice engine hoist.

Off topic - does mgb 1974 have a meaning?  If car, picture:-)

Edited by Woodski
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Swapping a 350 for a 383. Talked to a few people that did a similar swap with out updating the ECM and it was fine. If not I contacted Larry at Indmar and he will flash my ecm if I ship it to him. 
 

 

  • Like 2
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On 4/17/2020 at 5:32 PM, Woodski said:

@mgb1974 - From the description (and the one on the Summitt site) I would assume the requisite brass core plugs are used, looks like they refurbish Merc's for this.  One thing I would do prior to install is to compare camshafts between the two engines.  Looking at the cam specs, in the question section on the Summitt site, they look close to the GM marine cam.  Also, do a visual on the exhaust manifold gaskets to make sure you port match them.  If you are bumping up from a 350, you will like the extra displacement.  Have fun & nice engine hoist.

Off topic - does mgb 1974 have a meaning?  If car, picture:-)

I was worried about port matching but when I laid the intake gaskets on(from the original engine) it looks good to go. Also did some rough dial caliper checks and seem to be close to the original.

Brass plugs.

Screen name is from the British sports car MGB, I have a 1970 one now. Had a 1974 in high school. Funny thing is I use that screen name for a lot of stuff and people thinks it’s my initials and year I was born. 

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  • Like 4
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Stripped off everything from the old engine today and moved it to the new long block. 
 

took off the chrome valve covers and timing cover from the new block and threw them on the old block to keep some dirt out.  I’ll throw the old block on the classified once everything checks out. Be a great donor for a rebuild. 

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  • Like 1
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Cam valley looks clean. Sounds like it had a good long life. Be kinda cool if someone resurrected it into something. In the old day's we would have found a use for that engine quickly, lol.  Keep us posted with lots of pics !

Steve B.

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On 4/18/2020 at 8:49 PM, Steve B. said:

Cam valley looks clean. Sounds like it had a good long life. Be kinda cool if someone resurrected it into something. In the old day's we would have found a use for that engine quickly, lol.  Keep us posted with lots of pics !

Steve B.

The original engine actually looked to be in great shape other then low compression. I believe its valves in the head, didnt burn oil last season. I had compression from 110 to 160 on it. The boat came with a 1273 prop and I changed to the 2249 prop, it struggled to get on plane with ballast and people in the boat. I hope I can go back to the 1273 prop since I do have some people in my crew that salmon ski. I was really happy with that on my old 02 VLX. 

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11 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@mgb1974 - my dad had a '66 B, fun car.  Of course owning a British sports car provided the experience to become a proficient wrench, may the Lucas jokes begin, LOL.

I knew the word Lucas was uttered somewhere, that explains my sudden shudder and spilled coffee 10 minutes ago (proud previous owner of a TR7).  I'll go ahead and trump it with Zenith Stromberg.

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Lucas the prince of darkness!

I have the engine in and all hooked up. I need to replace heater hose and two of the. 1.25” raw water hoses. I should of done that before dropping the engine in!

Went to start it and it’s blowing 20 amp starter fuses. Need to figure out what’s going on with that. 
 

 I wonder If I have the starter wires hooked up wrong? I didn’t take pictures of the starter wire and ground wires. See below of how I have it wired now... 

any insight?

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, mgb1974 said:

Lucas the prince of darkness!

I have the engine in and all hooked up. I need to replace heater hose and two of the. 1.25” raw water hoses. I should of done that before dropping the engine in!

Went to start it and it’s blowing 20 amp starter fuses. Need to figure out what’s going on with that. 
 

 I wonder If I have the starter wires hooked up wrong? I didn’t take pictures of the starter wire and ground wires. See below of how I have it wired now... 

any insight?

Same starter, or a different one?

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@mgb1974 - A couple of things to check:  starter needs to be aligned & there are a few different starter rings - they have a different toorth count, 168 is standard and what you should have IIRC.  Is that an unattached ground on the left side of the photo and check to see the big (+) lead is not touching the small solenoid wire.

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37 minutes ago, Woodski said:

@mgb1974 - A couple of things to check:  starter needs to be aligned & there are a few different starter rings - they have a different toorth count, 168 is standard and what you should have IIRC.  Is that an unattached ground on the left side of the photo and check to see the big (+) lead is not touching the small solenoid wire.

I switched over the starter and flywheel from the original engine. Starter looks to be fairly new.

That wire is the ground for the blower, I disconnected all grounds thinking that may be the short. It wasn’t.

Good point on the + wire, I need to check that.

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12 hours ago, braindamage said:

What are you doing with the old engine?

Selling it once the new engine checks out. I’ll throw it on the crew classifieds first.

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Update. I believe my starter is bad. I took off the ground and cleaned it up and also cleaned up the housing, studs and bolts. I also went over all connections on my starter, cleaned them and made sure correct connections.  I coated everything in Dielectric grease. 

Went to start it and the boat cranks over, i get the Fake A lake all hooked up ready to go! Blown fuse when trying to crank. 

Did the old screwdriver trick across the solenoid terminals and it wasnt engaging very smoothly. Took the starter off and tried it with my battery charger, same thing sluggish to engage. 

Ordering a new one plus a bunch more 20 amp mini fuses!

  • Like 1
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Update:

Need some help. Starter was indeed bad, Sort of good news since I did blow a starter fuse on the water once last yearand couldn’t figure out what caused it.

So the boat starts but idles very rough, it will actually only start when I engage the throttle some. I am getting error code SPN 636 Crank sensor. Double checked connection on the sensor looks good.

Double checked spark plug wiring and tdc of the distributor at #1 on compression stroke. All looked ok

I think my timing is off since you can not set it without the software. I did try to slightly advance or retard the timing while it was running but didn’t seem to have much impact.

 

Thoughts/suggestions?

Edited by mgb1974
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8 hours ago, justgary said:

Did you happen to verify the valve timing when you took the cover off?

No I did not. Totally figured it was set when they put the timing chain on the engine at the factory...

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