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De-winterizing the the Malibu.


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So, it’s starting to warm up in Nashville so I’m trying to get my boat ready.  I had it winter winterized last year by a mechanic here locally.  
 

Trying to do this all by myself now.  I was a army helicopter mechanic for ten years and been wrenching on motorcycles since i was a kid.  So, i know the basics, or at least think i do.

As for de-winterizing this boat... what do i have to do? I checked engine oil level and it’s good.  The engine was serviced last year before i even bought.  It’s just barely over 300 hours on the engine. I had the batteries on a tender all winter and installed them today.  Also, i re-connected the intake hose from the engine manifold to air intake.  Re-installed drain plug for the engine compartment.

 

what else do i need to do? I can’t find any videos of a 99 monsoon engine.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Some winterize by taking things apart and leaving until spring. look for a bag with the impeller and block plugs

others drain the block and put it all back together so that you are good to go in the Spring.   IDK what you have, so

 

verify that the block plug is in place on the side with the alternator

verify that the knock sensor is in place on the side by the starter

verify the knock sensor is connected

verify the impeller is in good shape and installed in the raw water pump

verify that all water hoses are installed and the clamps are tight

verify that the valve on the top of the gas tank is open (may not have one)

there may be a hose connecting the two exhaust manifolds, make sure it is connected

I usually start it on a hose and check for leaks

the first start is more difficult, turn the key to on, let the fuel pump prime, then try to start

it may take a few cycles to get her to catch

don't put in gear on the trailer (just dont)

let idle for awhile and check for leaks

when you are launching for the first time, repeat the above before you back off the trailer.

Check again after 15-20 minutes, check the gauges etc

you should be good

smoke in the video is from the fogging at winterization

 

Edited by Bozboat
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41 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

Some winterize by taking things apart and leaving until spring. look for a bag with the impeller and block plugs

others drain the block and put it all back together so that you are good to go in the Spring.   IDK what you have, so

 

verify that the block plug is in place on the side with the alternator

verify that the knock sensor is in place on the side by the starter

verify the knock sensor is connected

verify the impeller is in good shape and installed in the raw water pump

verify that all water hoses are installed and the clamps are tight

verify that the valve on the top of the gas tank is open (may not have one)

there may be a hose connecting the two exhaust manifolds, make sure it is connected

I usually start it on a hose and check for leaks

the first start is more difficult, turn the key to on, let the fuel pump prime, then try to start

it may take a few cycles to get her to catch

don't put in gear on the trailer (just dont)

let idle for awhile and check for leaks

when you are launching for the first time, repeat the above before you back off the trailer.

Check again after 15-20 minutes, check the gauges etc

you should be good

smoke in the video is from the fogging at winterization

 

I think Bozboat nailed it.  I have a shower on the engine plug on the starboard side so if they disconnected any of the shower hoses you'll want to reconnect those too.

I also have a heater; there are two hoses (one outlet and one return) that may run to a heater or you may just have a hose between the two engine outlet/return.

The J-hose is a large J-shaped hose on the port side that may have been removed.  Since it has a big dip at the bottom where water could sit and then ice build, it is usually removed.  
It's possible that the hose at the bottom of the transmission cooler (startboard side of engine) and other hoses leading back to the water pump (impeller inside) could also have been disconnected for draining and winter storage.

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One other thing after the first start you may have to put in neutral and bump the throttle a little to help “prime” the raw water system.  
 

When I first got my boat years ago I spent hours wondering/troubleshooting why my boat wouldn’t suck water from hose or from the lake at idle.  Idle just wasn’t enough RPM to get the cooling system to prime.  

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29 minutes ago, formulaben said:

All good advice, but I'll just reiterate a good habit for the first outing of the season: do your usual walk-around/pre-launch routine (trailer straps, plugs, batt switch, etc.) but when it's time to launch leave it on the trailer with bow hook attached and do your engine start.  Once I see oil pressure and good voltage I head back and inspect the engine, v-drive, strainer, impeller pump, and bilge area for any leaks.  Once satisfied, take a moment re-check voltage and oil pressure...only then do I disconnect the bow hook and consider moving to the dock and driving the trailer away.  I try to pick a quiet time at the ramp so I'm not holding anyone up, but if it's early in the season it's usually not an issue and it really only takes an extra minute.  The point is, don't be in a rush and you'll save yourself a lot of panic if there's a missing plug, loose hose, etc.  And if for some reason you did forget a plug or see a leak, just turn the engine off, hop in the tow vehicle and head back up the ramp...no worries.

That’s a great idea I’ll use this

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37 minutes ago, formulaben said:

All good advice, but I'll just reiterate a good habit for the first outing of the season: do your usual walk-around/pre-launch routine (trailer straps, plugs, batt switch, etc.) but when it's time to launch leave it on the trailer with bow hook attached and do your engine start.  Once I see oil pressure and good voltage I head back and inspect the engine, v-drive, strainer, impeller pump, and bilge area for any leaks.  Once satisfied, take a moment re-check voltage and oil pressure...only then do I disconnect the bow hook and consider moving to the dock and driving the trailer away.  I try to pick a quiet time at the ramp so I'm not holding anyone up, but if it's early in the season it's usually not an issue and it really only takes an extra minute.  The point is, don't be in a rush and you'll save yourself a lot of panic if there's a missing plug, loose hose, etc.  And if for some reason you did forget a plug or see a leak, just turn the engine off, hop in the tow vehicle and head back up the ramp...no worries.

Inevitably something will need attention

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Oh, and I forgot to mention I usually only have a helper or myself solo for the first outing.  I pack a lunch and cleaning supplies and make a short day of it getting her clean.  Point being that you don't want the entire family and friends there when you haven't had your proving run yet...it only adds insult to injury.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/29/2020 at 8:13 PM, formulaben said:

Oh, and I forgot to mention I usually only have a helper or myself solo for the first outing.  I pack a lunch and cleaning supplies and make a short day of it getting her clean.  Point being that you don't want the entire family and friends there when you haven't had your proving run yet...it only adds insult to injury.

totally agree 

hahaha

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Taken the boat out a few times.  Everything is running smoothly.  Engine is great and batteries are strong.   Need to fix a light or two, as well as replace the struts for the engine cover.

 

Having said that, anyone know where i can order or find the metal brackets with the ball on them for the engine cover.  They need to be replaced.

 

also, can someone steer me in the right direction for making adjustments to steering 

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On 3/29/2020 at 8:27 PM, formulaben said:

All good advice, but I'll just reiterate a good habit for the first outing of the season: do your usual walk-around/pre-launch routine (trailer straps, plugs, batt switch, etc.) but when it's time to launch leave it on the trailer with bow hook attached and do your engine start.  Once I see oil pressure and good voltage I head back and inspect the engine, v-drive, strainer, impeller pump, and bilge area for any leaks.  Once satisfied, take a moment re-check voltage and oil pressure...only then do I disconnect the bow hook and consider moving to the dock and driving the trailer away.  I try to pick a quiet time at the ramp so I'm not holding anyone up, but if it's early in the season it's usually not an issue and it really only takes an extra minute.  The point is, don't be in a rush and you'll save yourself a lot of panic if there's a missing plug, loose hose, etc.  And if for some reason you did forget a plug or see a leak, just turn the engine off, hop in the tow vehicle and head back up the ramp...no worries.

What @Bozboat said and ^this.

what I learned this year. After running at 80% speed for a few minutes, stop and re-check everything again once the coolant system has experienced some pressure.

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18 hours ago, HawkGuy55 said:

Taken the boat out a few times.  Everything is running smoothly.  Engine is great and batteries are strong.   Need to fix a light or two, as well as replace the struts for the engine cover.

 

Having said that, anyone know where i can order or find the metal brackets with the ball on them for the engine cover.  They need to be replaced.

 

also, can someone steer me in the right direction for making adjustments to steering 

the metal brackets with the ball on them can be found at bakesonline or even amazon.  They are called gas shock mounts e.g. https://www.bakesonline.com/gas-shock-mount-2-5-tall-stainless-storage-mount.html

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On 3/29/2020 at 6:27 PM, formulaben said:

All good advice, but I'll just reiterate a good habit for the first outing of the season: do your usual walk-around/pre-launch routine (trailer straps, plugs, batt switch, etc.) but when it's time to launch leave it on the trailer with bow hook attached and do your engine start.  Once I see oil pressure and good voltage I head back and inspect the engine, v-drive, strainer, impeller pump, and bilge area for any leaks.  Once satisfied, take a moment re-check voltage and oil pressure...only then do I disconnect the bow hook and consider moving to the dock and driving the trailer away.  I try to pick a quiet time at the ramp so I'm not holding anyone up, but if it's early in the season it's usually not an issue and it really only takes an extra minute.  The point is, don't be in a rush and you'll save yourself a lot of panic if there's a missing plug, loose hose, etc.  And if for some reason you did forget a plug or see a leak, just turn the engine off, hop in the tow vehicle and head back up the ramp...no worries.

Amen for this advice.  The key is a quiet day when you are not holding anyone up.  If there is a lineup, you are more likely to be in a hurry and miss something.

I always take the boat out by myself on an evening to "blow the cobwebs out" after pulling it out of storage.  This gives me a chance to run it up to temperature and check for any leaks, rattles, or anything I may have missed.

My habit when winterizing is to drain ALL the water from the system, change the fluids, pull the impeller for storage, and put everything back together (hoses, plugs, etc).  That way in the spring, I can install a new impeller (old one becomes the spare), change the spark plugs, and go boating.  I don't like having to try to remember what I did 8 months ago, so putting it all back together makes getting the boat ready for summer easy.

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