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Wiring WS 420


Lptexastornado1

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Ight now that I got my starting issue fixed now I’m turning my attention to a couple other things that need to be fixed. First up re wiring my WS 420 unit.  When I turn the engine off it kills the power to the WS unit and my tunes. If I turn the key all the way to the left last off it will stay on but when I go to start the boat again it cuts out and pauses the music

 

my fix I think is to wire in a on off switch which that I independently control the power to the WS unit and amps. So as long as my battery switch is on and my radio switch is on its powered up no matter what  the key position is. 
 

anyone know how to do this =)

 

currently have 2 batteries.
 

Battery 1 red goes to terminal 1 on perko.  

battery 2 red goes to terminal 2 on perko

center terminal has red cable from starter and a second cable to the fuse panel by driver  

2 Amps go straight to battery 2 with cable then wires to speakers and over to fuse panel or WS Unit. This is where I am a little fuzzy on where all the wires go. 
 

anyone familiar with wiring of a 2006 23lsv and where these amp wires go. I guess maybe I need to just start pulling stuff and trying to track it all

 

thanks for the help. It’s great when I can figure these things out with yalls help!!    Keeps the better half off my back for spending money on the boat 

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1 hour ago, Lptexastornado1 said:

2 Amps go straight to battery 2

Good time to reconfigure this while you are in there, so the amps are not circumventing the main battery switch. its also a step to insure that ALL the audio components draw from the same voltage source. 

If there is a traditional head unit, is it also powering off with the key, or is the EQ your only media source? 

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So I’m not a electronics guy but I can follow instructions and make connections. 
 

seems like I might need to just rewrite my system. I have been trying to find some threads on here on how to wire the system but can’t find a basic write up. I have found pieces but not a simple write up. 
 

looks like The amps shouldn’t be wired directly to the batteries (but in the year I have had the boat it doesn’t deplete the batteries when the perko switch is off. In fact the amps are off when the switch is off and I think that’s contributing to the loud pop when I turn the key on or off. )

 

I think what I need to do is get a distribution block and run the 2 positive amp power wires to the block then from there run a wire to switch #2 on the perko. 
 

then re wire / run new wire the WS420 and hard wire it back to the distribution block as well (or have a second distribution block for this ).  And by my WS 420 splice in a toggled on/off switch and completely bypass the ignition switch. 
 

and from what I’m reading on other threads this will give me power for amps and WS unit all from the same source and should help eliminate some of the feedback I’m getting in the speakers?  
 

thoughts? corrections ? A link to a write up that lays it all out as well =)

 

Starting to warm up down here in Texas I need to knock a couple of these things out. 

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47 minutes ago, Lptexastornado1 said:

then from there run a wire to switch #2 on the perko

This is electrically the same as it is now.

With no other media source, you just need to control the turn-on circuit with a helm rocker. This will resolve both the system shutting down wit the key, and your turn-on pop. 

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So a helm switch would be the same as a on off toggle right? 
 

and to wire that I just need to find the 2 wires that are powering on my amps and the wire powering on my WS and connect them to the Toggle switch?

 

I need to just dig into it and find the wires and where they all go. 
 

just out of curiosity one amp is powered by 6awg wire and the other 4awg. Is that a problem. 

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1 hour ago, Lptexastornado1 said:

nd to wire that I just need to find the 2 wires that are powering on my amps and the wire powering on my WS and connect them to the Toggle switch?

rocker toggle, toggle rocker, same same. yes. Sometimes its faster to just gut and rewire, then it can be to search out existing wires and piece old and new together. The later sometimes ends up with excessive/unneeded wire connections, some old ones that you might not have seen which lead to gremlins down the road. 

1 hour ago, Lptexastornado1 said:

just out of curiosity one amp is powered by 6awg wire and the other 4awg. Is that a problem.

Not a problem that they are different gauge, as long as they are adequate for each amp. 

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