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Misfire and electrical codes Malibu 23lsv


timelinex

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I have a 2007 Malibu 23lsv (350 monsoon). I had issues the last 2 times I went out. Under regular driving at reasonable acceleration there are no issues. As soon as I pump the boat full of water, pull people, give hard acceleration, and/or try to go fast the boat throws a code and speed to like 12mph and no faster. I was able to put along and pull riders at around 16mph after I emptied all the tanks and raised the wedge (in other words lightened the load on the engine).

The first time I thought it was bad gas. Even though I do use stabilizer, it's been a good amount of time since last use. So I pumped all the gas out and put in new gas. I just went out and still had issues. It was better this time around because I was actually able to pull a rider at full speed after I emptied the tanks.

Here are the codes:

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So there are 2 misfire codes and a few electrical codes. I voltage codes the last time and it turned out one battery was very low and the other was dead. So I charged the low but ok one and replaced the dead one. So the batteries are good now. I don't know if the voltage code is from the last time then? Although the other electrical ecu type codes were not there before.

I checked the cap/rotor and they looked good. I sprayed water on the spark plug wires while the engine was running and didn't see any sparking so wires should be good. I pulled spark plug #7 (one of the problem ones) and it looked good! The outer part is all rusted though, but I don't see how that effects anything. One thing that I did see is the air filter looks trashed, which I could see leading to performance issues, but I don't think that would lead to any of the faults?

I will also make sure the batteries connections are solid. Then I plan on changing the air filter, plugs, rotor, & cap (those 3 things were last replaced in 2014). I figure if it says misfire, I should change those things no matter what since they are relatively easy and cheap?

I have a fake a lake, but even when giving gas in neutral , it never throws any codes. Not enough load. So I have to go to the lake to test things which is at minimum a half day ordeal. Any other things anyone recommends I look at or change before testing again?

Much appreciated!

Edited by timelinex
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5 hours ago, timelinex said:

I checked the cap/rotor and they looked good. I sprayed water on the spark plug wires while the engine was running and didn't see any sparking so wires should be good. I pulled spark plug #7 (one of the problem ones) and it looked good! The outer part is all rusted though, but I don't see how that effects anything. One thing that I did see is the air filter looks trashed, which I could see leading to performance issues, but I don't think that would lead to any of the faults?

First, I'd for sure clean ALL the battery cable terminals.  Start at the battery(s) and work downstream to the positive and negative cables terminate at the starter and engine block;, and also any master switch lugs.  When you say the batteries are all good now, what does that mean?  Way too many threads here where the batteries show "good" but fail an actual load test.  How old are they?  What was your indicated voltage during these runs?

Next, a clogged air filter explains why you can rev up with no load but when you really put the coals to it with a load she's choking for air.  Definitely replace the filter.

Lastly, your spark plugs are talking to you.  I would replace all the spark plugs (especially if they're 6 years old)...they are cheap and this isn't worth your time and frustration.  Same for rotor, cap, and wires if the above steps don't help.  Good luck!

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8 hours ago, formulaben said:

First, I'd for sure clean ALL the battery cable terminals.  Start at the battery(s) and work downstream to the positive and negative cables terminate at the starter and engine block;, and also any master switch lugs.  When you say the batteries are all good now, what does that mean?  Way too many threads here where the batteries show "good" but fail an actual load test.  How old are they?  What was your indicated voltage during these runs?

Next, a clogged air filter explains why you can rev up with no load but when you really put the coals to it with a load she's choking for air.  Definitely replace the filter.

Lastly, your spark plugs are talking to you.  I would replace all the spark plugs (especially if they're 6 years old)...they are cheap and this isn't worth your time and frustration.  Same for rotor, cap, and wires if the above steps don't help.  Good luck!

Thanks for the reply!

By good, I mean I took it to the shop when replacing the other battery and they said it was almost drained but passed their tests and only needed to be charged. After charging I showed 12.5-12.6 volt. I run a dual battery setup, so even if this one isnt great,  my other one is brand new. How can I run the load check on the older one?

One of the things I did this time for the first time was spray some red anti corrosion stuff on the battery terminals after hooking everything up (looks like spray paint). Is it possible this stuff is hindering the connection?

I will also check the connections. Last I remember though, the wires just went behind the boards, so dont have access to most of the run.

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3 hours ago, timelinex said:

By good, I mean I took it to the shop when replacing the other battery and they said it was almost drained but passed their tests and only needed to be charged. After charging I showed 12.5-12.6 volt. I run a dual battery setup, so even if this one isnt great,  my other one is brand new. How can I run the load check on the older one?

That's good that it was load tested.  More questions:

  1.  You say 12.5-12.6 volts...I presume that is static?  If that's with the engine running your alternator is not charging the system.  Next run out, please monitor your dash gauge for system voltage during these issues. A voltmeter might be useful to verify the dash gauge is accurate.
  2. You say dual battery setup, I presume it is only A or B when running (no "combined" option)?  Before your next run get a full charge on both and verify the errors occur on both individually and also in combined if that's an option.  As far as running a load check on the older one, take it to the auto parts store and they should be able to check it (just like your first one?)  Again, these are fairly cheap and sometimes aren't worth your time ruined on the water.  You never said how old the batteries are (they definitely have a life limit based on use!) but I have had zero issues with these batteries, available almost anywhere and price is excellent.

 

3 hours ago, timelinex said:

Last I remember though, the wires just went behind the boards, so dont have access to most of the run.

OK, you may have lost me here, what does this mean?  Are you referring to the cables going through the gunnels?  That's OK.  Your battery(s) should be somewhere accessible, so we're just talking terminal ends/lugs at battery, master switch, and engine.

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23 hours ago, formulaben said:

That's good that it was load tested.  More questions:

  1.  You say 12.5-12.6 volts...I presume that is static?  If that's with the engine running your alternator is not charging the system.  Next run out, please monitor your dash gauge for system voltage during these issues. A voltmeter might be useful to verify the dash gauge is accurate.
  2. You say dual battery setup, I presume it is only A or B when running (no "combined" option)?  Before your next run get a full charge on both and verify the errors occur on both individually and also in combined if that's an option.  As far as running a load check on the older one, take it to the auto parts store and they should be able to check it (just like your first one?)  Again, these are fairly cheap and sometimes aren't worth your time ruined on the water.  You never said how old the batteries are (they definitely have a life limit based on use!) but I have had zero issues with these batteries, available almost anywhere and price is excellent.

 

OK, you may have lost me here, what does this mean?  Are you referring to the cables going through the gunnels?  That's OK.  Your battery(s) should be somewhere accessible, so we're just talking terminal ends/lugs at battery, master switch, and engine.

1. Yes that is static. I wasnt actively monitoring my voltage while running but I did see it at 14 something while running. Not sure of it ever dipped. I'll keep an eye on it.

2. My setup I have a selector which selects using battery #1 , #2, neither or both. I always run it on both. The older battery did have the load test which passed as ok at the auto shop. Even if one of the batteries is a little worse, if both are being run wouldnt that prevent any issues.

3. Ok, I will obviously check the terminals at the battery. I havent looked on the engine where they lead, but if you know off the top of your head, which side am I looking for them on? Also, what is the master switch. Are your referring to the battery selector I mentioned in bullet point #2?

One other question. Could previous heavy rains have an effect on this and if so, what could it mean. The reason i ask is i have had issues on and off for a few years now and many times its after heavy rains where everything gets SOAKED. Before it was issues with the throttle position sensors which was voltage related as well. Dealer replaced a bunch of things that we wasnt helping and then it went away. Dealer says that rains shouldnt matter and dismisses it. It could be coincidence, but considering how rarely it rains here in Phx, I am not as quick to dismiss the coincidence. Now I'm having the voltage issues and it was right after we just had some heavy rains (and before it was fine with no issues).

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  1. Good, just take a quick glance at the voltmeter if/when the fault happens again, but for sure keep an eye on system voltage continuously next few times out.
  2. Only issue I see is if you have a bad battery while using BOTH, so I'd try all 3 settings and see if you can isolate the issue, starting with individual battery settings first.  Personally, if they are older than 3 or 4 years and have been run hard I'd just replace them both (and never let them get below 11.8 volts!  This kills batteries.)
  3. Yes, "master switch" is same as battery selector.  Positive red cable goes to the starter on left/port side, front of engine down low; negative black cable terminal is just ahead of that on the block of the engine (see pic below)  Don't assume connections are good just because the look good; corrosion can be hidden between the terminal and stud.  Don't ask me how I know this!  Remove the terminal and clean the contact areas of the terminal and stud with Scotchbrite to make a really good contact.  Do that at the batteries and battery switch too.  Also there is a cable from the alternator to the starter that should be orange.  This is the charging cable, so if you see voltage drops then do the same for this cable at the starter post (it goes from here back to the batteries via the big red cable.)
  4. Can't imagine rains causing issues with the engine compartment components, but if it gets into the dash/throttle area I suppose it could wreak havoc with any throttle-by-wire hardware...which I suppose could explain your issue, but I still suspect it is voltage related.  Is your model throttle-by-wire or standard cable?

 

You can see both the black and red cables tied to the fuel filler hose, then the red departs for the starter while the black takes an earlier left turn and goes to a grounding stud on the block.

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