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Bow tie-down strap?


formerathlete

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For those of you who trailer your Axis regularly, do you use anything other than the winch strap for the bow? I am looking to find a way to secure my boat better at the bow than with just the winch strap. My problem is the options are limited because of how the trailer is designed. There is a loop on the trailer on the backside of the bar that has the winch on it but it's too close to the bow eye for any strap. Should I just attach a short chain to that loop on the trailer and hook that to bow eye after it's all winched up? I'm curious what you guys do.

Thanks!

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The locking carabiner is/was a work related item and the threaded "C" clip I got from the local farm store. There is 4 links of chain that I had laying around connecting the clips and the cover is from an old boarding rope handle that I repurposed after it died. The cover keeps the chain from slopping around when it is connected. I slid a piece of black nylon tube over the contact point on the little clip to keep the paint protected on the trailer eye. Quickly removed when I park and I just drop it on the floor behind me feet to remind to put it back on before I head home.

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Thanks all.

I ended up buying some chain and attaching two quick links similar to this on each end: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-Stainless-Steel-Quick-Link-43404/205887496?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-204606888-_-205887496-_-N.

Then I wrapped one of the quick links in gorilla tape to protect the trailer paint where it attaches. I also covered the chain with a section of old bike tire inner tube to protect the trailer paint if the chain is ever in contact with it and to help prevent chain from flopping around so much. Ended up looking somewhat similar to wdr's setup above.

Should work okay.

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4 hours ago, formerathlete said:

Thanks all.

I ended up buying some chain and attaching two quick links similar to this on each end: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-5-16-in-Stainless-Steel-Quick-Link-43404/205887496?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-204606888-_-205887496-_-N.

Then I wrapped one of the quick links in gorilla tape to protect the trailer paint where it attaches. I also covered the chain with a section of old bike tire inner tube to protect the trailer paint if the chain is ever in contact with it and to help prevent chain from flopping around so much. Ended up looking somewhat similar to wdr's setup above.

Should work okay.

Hate to be Negative Nancy, but that load limit is low.

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The quick links I bought have a 5000lb capacity which exceeds the winch/strap capacity and like wdr said, if I'm at the point where it's gonna break, I have other big problems.

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8 hours ago, formerathlete said:

The quick links I bought have a 5000lb capacity which exceeds the winch/strap capacity and like wdr said, if I'm at the point where it's gonna break, I have other big problems.

The one in the URL above shows "Working load limit of 1,950 lbs".  Just sayin'

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I bought this one...https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reese-Towpower-5-16-in-Chain-Clip-Quick-L-inks/1001277446

Quickly posted other link because I couldn’t find what I bought, thus my “similar to this” reference in my post. After more searching, I found what I bought. With 5000lb load limit. 

Edited by formerathlete
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2 hours ago, formerathlete said:

I bought this one...https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reese-Towpower-5-16-in-Chain-Clip-Quick-L-inks/1001277446

Quickly posted other link because I couldn’t find what I bought, thus my “similar to this” reference in my post. After more searching, I found what I bought. With 5000lb load limit. 

Ah - much better.  :)

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 2/20/2020 at 7:11 AM, granddaddy55 said:

this is what mine looks like , its a fixed length strap

B7761D3C-265B-4A0F-830B-D3195F28E7A8.jpeg

I have the same trailer as you. This weekend my ratchet strap ripped when I was cranking my boat onto the trailer. It is only 5 years old so I now have little confidence in the integrity of this safety strap as it is made of the same material. Hopefully i'll never need it, but I'm still probably going to look into replacing with a chain

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3 hours ago, KissMyAxis said:

I have the same trailer as you. This weekend my ratchet strap ripped when I was cranking my boat onto the trailer. It is only 5 years old so I now have little confidence in the integrity of this safety strap as it is made of the same material. Hopefully i'll never need it, but I'm still probably going to look into replacing with a chain

but the winching is the wear stress,  i believe without winching it will stay strong,  i dont winch so my actual  winch strap is still good after 6 years of 85+ launches a year 

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On 3/30/2020 at 1:46 PM, granddaddy55 said:

 i dont winch so my actual  winch strap is still good after 6 years of 85+ launches a year 

Do you have someone at the winch that hooks it up after you power onto trailer? Or do you leave boat in gear, hop up front and hook winch to bow eye? Or do you back trailer deeper and float it up to hookup? I'm still trying to find the best method as I'm usually a one man show when it comes to taking the boat out of the water.

Our previous boat trailer had a boat buddy, so I'd just power up until it latched automatically and I was done. Then I'd secure the winch after I took it out of the water. Our dealer showed me that he just leaves it in gear, hops up and latches it while it's pushing against roller. I did that at one of our lakes last summer and the back of the boat drifted a bit to the right and the prop kissed the prop guard on the trailer, while it was in gear, which caused a tiny bit of damage to what's now the spare prop. After that happened, I stopped the 'keep it in gear while hopping to the front to latch' strategy. Now I end up powering up fairly close, shutting it off, jumping up to the front and winching it the rest of the way. Unfortunately, that puts a HUGE amount of stress on the winch and I'm just waiting for it to break one of these days. I'd love to back the trailer in deeper and just float it all the way forward to hookup but my truck is already deep in the water (water is almost halfway up rear wheels and exhaust tip is underwater), so I'm reluctant to back any further.

Needless to say, I need to find a better way. I'll likely just train someone in my crew on what I need them to do when I power it up, as it's not rocket science--but I hate having to rely on others and would love to know a better way that didn't require others to help and didn't stress the winch too much. I've also thought about buying a ramp n clamp but I'm not sure I want to go that route. Open to suggestions...

Edited by formerathlete
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If your tail walked while in gear on the trailer, your trailer was in too deep for that method, leaving the boat not captured by the rear of the bunks.  The bunks needs to be well engaged to do that so that it can't go anywhere.  Use a second person when they're there just to speed things up.

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5 minutes ago, TomH said:

If your tail walked while in gear on the trailer, your trailer was in too deep for that method, leaving the boat not captured by the rear of the bunks.  The bunks needs to be well engaged to do that so that it can't go anywhere.  Use a second person when they're there just to speed things up.

I was wondering that about the bunks. When the prop nicked the trailer, we were at a launch that is super steep, so the back of the trailer was deep. I've since started using the other launch on that lake. I'm guessing that's the only launch where it would be an issue but I've been reluctant to try that method again, regardless of where I'm launching. 

Edited by formerathlete
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1 minute ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

Whatever your method is, please NEVER leave the boat in gear then get out of it. That is a recipe for disaster. 

It was never a 'get out of the boat' when it's in gear. It was a 'hang over the bow and latch' from inside the boat. Still a potential for disaster and I never felt comfortable leaving the helm with it in gear. Another reason why I don't prefer that method.

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IME, gadgets will never replace good boating skills and I like to have a back up plan for when the unexpected happens. The best option for me was to get my wife to load and unload it. She doesn't like backing the trailer anywhere. That way we are not another boat sucking up dock space getting thrashed for 30 mins or more by the other clueless and inconsiderate newbs while someone gets their trailer and waits in the back of the line for the rest of the goobers doing the same. She tools around or chills with her GF's away from the drama until I get there. Pretty funny looking at the he-man trying to load up multiple times. She is usually a one shot and done loader. JM2C

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My better half is terrified of me asking her to approach trailer with the boat. We'll get there eventually. She'll be more comfortable hooking up the winch once I get it in position. Baby steps.

Edited by formerathlete
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ahopkins22LSV
5 minutes ago, formerathlete said:

It was never a 'get out of the boat' when it's in gear. It was a 'hang over the bow and latch' from inside the boat. Still a potential for disaster and I never felt comfortable leaving the helm with it in gear. Another reason why I don't prefer that method.

I’m with @wdr. And it’s going to take some experimenting. I’d suggest finding the best depth on the trailer to be able to drive the boat on. Going in and out of idle to not go too fast to get within a few few of the bow stop. You want the trailer deep enough to to get almost all the way to the bow stop. But not too deep to that you hit the bow stop. I then shut the boat off and winch the last three is feet. If you are at the right depth, this won’t be hard. But again, if you are too deep it won’t line the boat up properly. Pay attention to the water like on the frame of the trailer to go to the same spot every time. This is most consistent in a lake that doesn’t have varying water levels or if you are always going to the same launch. Even when we go to different lakes though, it gets me really really close without having to make any adjustments normally. 

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