Broken Exhaust Manifold crossover

[dickthemooner]

Hey Crew! Well I found an issue today on the boat. The previous owner must not have winterized this boat well. The piece that goes between both exhaust manifolds and then out to the exhaust hoses is cracked on both sides. Either this thing was repaired once of its made of fiberglass but a bad job from an expensive boat company. I didn't know what you call it other than exhaust crossover. I wish I could post a pic of it but I don't see where you can attach it to the page here. Where can I get a new one and what is the average costs? Can it be repaired?

Thanks!! Love this site!

[justgary]

Are you talking about the crossover behind the engine, with the large exhaust hoses?

Any old can of resin and some glass cloth is all you need to fix it.  Remove it, clean it, scuff it a bit, then glass over the cracks. 

While you are in there, check the mufflers too, and consider changing all of the exhaust hoses and maybe the fuel lines if you don't know how old they are. 

[UWSkier]

1994 Echelon would have had a fiberglass muffler like the V-drive silent-rider I believe.  @Michigan boarder when you did your Echelon build, did you need to source a new muffler or use the existing?

[dickthemooner]

Thanks justgary, yes that is it. I have since found out it is called a silent rider muffler. It looks like it's already been replaced but I'll pull it and try to redo it myself as you mentioned. I have a friend that does body work, I'm sure he can assist! BTW, wheres the best place for prop reconditioning? I live in TN.

Thanks everyone for the help! This is a great site and full of info from everyday boaters!

[hawaiianstyln]

13 hours ago, dickthemooner said:

wheres the best place for prop reconditioning? I live in TN.

should be plenty of places in TN that can repair a prop.  A good question for google map in your area.  Or you can always ship it back to the Acme/OJ for repair

[wdr]

13 hours ago, dickthemooner said:

Thanks justgary, yes that is it. I have since found out it is called a silent rider muffler. It looks like it's already been replaced but I'll pull it and try to redo it myself as you mentioned. I have a friend that does body work, I'm sure he can assist! BTW, wheres the best place for prop reconditioning? I live in TN.

Thanks everyone for the help! This is a great site and full of info from everyday boaters!

I have been using Performance Prop in Old Hickory, TN for years and would highly recommend them.

2001 Old Hickory Blvd, Old Hickory, TN 37138

(615) 847-5987

[Michigan boarder]

On 2/18/2020 at 10:44 AM, UWSkier said:

1994 Echelon would have had a fiberglass muffler like the V-drive silent-rider I believe.  @Michigan boarder when you did your Echelon build, did you need to source a new muffler or use the existing?

I used my original.  I took the guts out of it (basically two sharp elbows inside) and opened the outputs to larger diameter (3.5" instead of 2.875") and did the fiberglass work myself.  The fittings that I sourced are from Centek Industries.   It was messy, but really easy.  Here's a bunch of pics.

 

[BearCreekBum]

14 hours ago, dickthemooner said:

 wheres the best place for prop reconditioning? I live in TN.

Where in TN are you located?

If you are near Pickwick Lake, I have friends that have used Pedens Prop Shop in Iuka, MS and he has done great work.

[Woodski]

@dickthemooner - as noted the silent rider can be repaired and by the sounds of it, you have a good source.  As for the prop, what are you currently running?  If original, it will be a Dymex nibral 13 x 13, if stainless steel it's probably a CVP, if an older replacement nibral it could be one of many brands.  If relatively new and has CNC marks it could be either an Acme or OJ prop.  You might want to verify what it is prior to reconditioning as to extract best performance from your boat the new CNC props (Acme or OJ) are very good.

[dickthemooner]

Everyone, thanks for all the great info!! I haven't been on for a while or worked on the boat again until last week. I started a new job so I been busy! I'll keep all posted with news at it comes along. It is scheduled for new upholstery in 2 weeks. Found a great business with great prices!

Dickthemooner

[dickthemooner]

@Michigan boarder  

My apologies to all. I was laid up for several months with this Covid cra_p and not able to work on my restore! Michigan Boarder, I inspected my muffler close. It is soft as well. I'm afraid if I glass the entire thing that it will eventually collapse inside. Has anyone heard of doing single exhausts out each side instead? I've seen several online for about $150 each. I did find a source that can make the original from a print I got from the original manufacturer. They wanted $900 to make one. Called another boat supplier and they added it to their order to see if they could get a discount. They came back with $601 plus shipping. Doesn't sound bad. So the question is, do I bite the bullet and have them make the OEM style, or investigate the single outs each side? Sorry I'm a pest.

FYI Covid 19 is real. I was on the edge of death. Perfectly healthy before and after, have lung damage and scar tissue along with weakened heart muscle. Wear a mask. If not for you, for those around you.

Thanks

[jk13]

1 hour ago, dickthemooner said:

@Michigan boarder  

My apologies to all. I was laid up for several months with this Covid cra_p and not able to work on my restore! Michigan Boarder, I inspected my muffler close. It is soft as well. I'm afraid if I glass the entire thing that it will eventually collapse inside. Has anyone heard of doing single exhausts out each side instead? I've seen several online for about $150 each. I did find a source that can make the original from a print I got from the original manufacturer. They wanted $900 to make one. Called another boat supplier and they added it to their order to see if they could get a discount. They came back with $601 plus shipping. Doesn't sound bad. So the question is, do I bite the bullet and have them make the OEM style, or investigate the single outs each side? Sorry I'm a pest.

FYI Covid 19 is real. I was on the edge of death. Perfectly healthy before and after, have lung damage and scar tissue along with weakened heart muscle. Wear a mask. If not for you, for those around you.

Thanks

Your boat was available either way when new. Mine had separate L-R exhaust with mufflers on the floor, and the crossover Silent Rider was an option. Either way works fine, just choose your budget and move forward. If there are soft areas on yours, it is possible to cut those areas out and patch with new strong material, then glass over the entire unit. Those holes will allow better inspection of the inside as well, and an access point for any further interior repairs. Fiberglass is only scary the first time, just make sure any area you are working on is clean and has grinding marks in it--'tooth' for the resin to grab onto. And clean. Also, clean.

Glad you are feeling better.

[BearCreekBum]

@Bradley Thornton @dickthemooner

I think Bradley had one for sale some time ago he pulled off his former boat.

[Steve B.]

Hoping for a full recovery for you dickthemooner. I was going to ask after your first post about it. 

Steve B.

[Michigan boarder]

Part of my reasons for using the existing muffler were for exhaust scavenging, so it would act as an H pipe to synchronize the balance of the exhaust pulses from each bank of cylinders.  If you run two exhaust hoses independently without connecting them you may be leaving some power on the table.  Another solution is to fabricate a H or X connection under the floor somewhere further downstream the exhaust.

[dickthemooner]

Thanks for the help again guys! @Bradley Thornton do you still have the silent rider?

Also guys, Covid 19 is a killer! I was sick at home almost 3 weeks under Dr care, then finally I said, you need to see me again! Something is wrong, I am getting worse! Long story short, into the ER I went, xray of lungs and heart and found I had severe blood clots in the lungs. The test for checking this is call D-Dimers. Normal is under 400, my last exam was under 100. The ER check? 4320! 10x the norm! The Dr said in his 20 years he has never seen one that high. He said he couldn't believe I did not have a heart attack or stroke! Week in hospital and sent home. Next two weeks, I was till a zombie. Improving every day. It's been 8 weeks now and I haven't worked. Cardiologist follow up tomorrow to see if I can return to work. And all this time of work, I haven't had the strength to do anything until this last week. Just wanted to let you all know the risks on this crud!

@BearCreekBum, I see you are from Bartlett. My son lives in Southaven. I go through your way a lot.

dicmthemooner

[BearCreekBum]

@dickthemooner

Glad to hear you are on feeling better.

If you are in the area I’ll buy you a drink to celebrate your recovery.

 

[Woodski]

@dickthemooner - glad to hear you are recovering.  As for the exhaust system, standard issue for that boat was 2 in line silencers, typically Primex brand.  The optional silent rider offered a much quieter exhaust system.  Audibly the two systems are very different with the silent rider really lowering the exhaust note and volume.  Functionally, both work fine so if a cost effective solution is desired, the 2 in line silencers will do fine.  I did the H pipe experiment, not a big change but when coupled to a good exhaust manifold (not the stock open chamber version) it will give a small torque boost.  If keeping a very quiet boat is a priority, the silent rider would be your best option.

[blk93jeepzj]

On 2/19/2020 at 11:23 AM, Michigan boarder said:

I used my original.  I took the guts out of it (basically two sharp elbows inside) and opened the outputs to larger diameter (3.5" instead of 2.875") and did the fiberglass work myself.  The fittings that I sourced are from Centek Industries.   It was messy, but really easy.  Here's a bunch of pics.

 

  

If you have to rebuild a port or two these ArmorAll Wipes are the perfect size for making them.  Wrap the container with aluminum foil, then using fiberglass mat lay it on there and add resin.  3-4 layers and and let it dry.  Once dry you can slip it off the container and sand as needed and cut the ends straight.  Then you can fiberglass it onto the muffler.  

[jk13]

Just now, blk93jeepzj said:

  

If you have to rebuild a port or two these ArmorAll Wipes are the perfect size for making them.  Wrap the container with aluminum foil, then using fiberglass mat lay it on there and add resin.  3-4 layers and and let it dry.  Once dry you can slip it off the container and sand as needed and cut the ends straight.  Then you can fiberglass it onto the muffler.  

And if you need a curved patch piece to match the center crossover section for repair, do the same with masking tape and tin foil on the main body.

[Steve B.]

I've never worked on or had these cross-over units. This unit takes the place of the two mufflers normally found under the floor? (also glad you are feeling better !)

Steve B.

[UWSkier]

1 hour ago, Steve B. said:

I've never worked on or had these cross-over units. This unit takes the place of the two mufflers normally found under the floor? (also glad you are feeling better !)

Steve B.

Yes but won't fit on newer boats with the ECM and other bits back there.  Wish they would fit though.  That type of muffler sounds great.  My dad's '01 VLX sounds much less intense than my '01 RLX but still sounds good.