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Replacing Carpet with SeaDek Flooring


lorien

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Hi Everyone,

I'm in the process of replacing the original carpet on my 2007 LXI Silver Edition with Seadek.  During the prep work, I noticed that the carpet under the fuel tank is molded and generally really gross, but wanted to check in with some of you experts before I pull it out.

Is there any reason I should NOT remove the carpet from under the fuel tank, then replace the tank directly on the fiberglass floor?  I believe it should be ok, but just wanted to make sure it's not going to later crack my gas tank b/c there wasn't a carpet as padding under it.

Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks!

PS:  I will post more about the overall conversion from carpet to a more modern floor once it's done.  The process is quite time consuming (to do right on an older boat) but I think it will be well worth it in the end.

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42 minutes ago, lorien said:

Is there any reason I should NOT remove the carpet from under the fuel tank, then replace the tank directly on the fiberglass floor?  I believe it should be ok, but just wanted to make sure it's not going to later crack my gas tank b/c there wasn't a carpet as padding under it.

Now I have a Vdrive instead of a DD, but I have had my fuel tank out and there was nothing but the fiberglass floor below it.  My only guess on carpet being under there would be for sound insulation, but it would get soaked all the time and seems like a bad idea to be there.

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I think to put back some kind of padding under the tank would absolutely make sense.
It keeps the tank from sliding around (usually it is only fastened to the floor with two flimsy aluminum brackets) and it protects the bottom of the tank somewhat.

Pretty sure you will have enough cut off pieces of the new flooring material. So why not put them to good use and cover the area below the tank with it?

Edited by Chaabo
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On both of mine there has only been the composite rubber pads strategically placed under the corners of the tanks and centerline. It keeps it from sliding around and allows the water to drain fore or aft as required. A full pad under a tank would retain and or keep the water and floaties from draining out.

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Thanks to you all.  I'm gonna remove the front 'flimsy aluminum bracket' and pull the carpet out.  I agree that it's just holding water and rotting out b/c of the lack of airflow under there, but also like the though of having some padding for the tank/anti-slip factor.  I will either put some of the seadek under there, or I'm sure I have other rubber pieces I can put in a few places.  Much appreciated!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey lorein was wondering what type of adhesive removal product worked out the best to remove the glue ?  I’m   Going to replace my carpet with gatorstep. Oh how did it come out by the way any pictures ?? 

  • Like 1
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On 1/15/2020 at 9:33 AM, noworries said:

Hey lorein was wondering what type of adhesive removal product worked out the best to remove the glue ?  I’m   Going to replace my carpet with gatorstep. Oh how did it come out by the way any pictures ?? 

I recommend utilizing 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner to help expedite the process of removing old adhesive.

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  • 2 weeks later...

if i'm not mistaking, entire boat with you pulling the carpet on your 2000 Response (2000 or 2001?) about $1,500-$1,700.  For me, I just finished templating my 08 VLX for Gatorstep, but my carpet is fine and I don't want to deal with ripping it up and scraping glue.  Even if you just want to get the swim platform done you are looking at about $360.  Suppose you could always buy EVA Foam (what this stuff is called) on ebay and cut it out yourself but I will pay the extra money for laser'd edges for cleaner look.  If you pay someone to do this whole project because you don't want to deal with the lengthy nightmare of pulling your carpet and scraping glue for weeks/hours, I hear some have paid $5,000+

To give you an idea:

https://gatorstep.com/product/malibu-response-lx-1999/

https://gatorstep.com/product/malibu-25lsv-2001/

 

my templates for gatorstep that I just sent in and prep work (minus the carpet job).  Be careful with acetone as I left it on too long to scrape glue off and it dulled/bubbled a small area of my platform.  Luckily the new gatorstep covers it easily.   Also don't worry when you draw your template lines if you drink too much and have some squiggle like me.  They will clean that up once they scan it in electronically.

Swim.thumb.jpg.b85a1cc75b1b5a1d43ac26328718d8a6.jpgswim_template.thumb.jpg.93e90d88cb2ea3866ce1c886164af889.jpg

Walkthru.thumb.jpg.d74f9c4b60396f2210f391103aba18b1.jpgBow.thumb.jpg.fdc4e579c95e972aafb98154c86b7bbb.jpg

Front.thumb.jpg.d7b75af0f138e712d5c264fcd940d4da.jpgRear.thumb.jpg.20c0bafc6644dad9eecb929e4a2c645d.jpg

 

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SeaDek and GatorStep no longer allow the printing of the Malibu logo.  It's on my templating but they won't do it so I chose something else that isn't trademarked.

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Man, it looks like you hit the lottery when it came to peeling off the old padding. Mine came off in fist sized chunks at the biggest. My walk over was a little easier, but not much. I used a rolling pin to apply the GS to get all of the bubbles out. Be prepared for it to do too good of a job. I experienced some stretching of the parts, especially on the smaller, narrower pieces like the on the gunnels.

  • Like 2
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45 minutes ago, wdr said:

Man, it looks like you hit the lottery when it came to peeling off the old padding.

I didn't show you after the pad got a little further :lol:  :)

I started to try and peel it quicker because it was coming off super clean, then it started ripping off in chunks and certain parts weren't so easy.  I found the slower  you go the easier it peels up clean (with heat)

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5 hours ago, wdr said:

If you ever get the urge to replace the exposed bow light to a flip over, I think you will really like the fact that there is one less thing to trip on coming in and out of the bow.  

I've thought about this!  I'm not afraid to drill or cut into my Gel/Glass which is what I will have to do for that transition.  you are helping me spend my money :) :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the long silence.  The project is nearing completion, and like people said, it was a lot of work, but looks like it will be worth it!  The majority of time is spent prepping the unfinished fiberglass floor (pulling carpet, stripping adhesive, sanding, filler, more sanding, then we used expoxy primer and automotive urethane paint).  After doing all that we got it templated, and the SeaDek installed.  TO THE PERSON WHO SAID YOU CAN'T GET MALIBU LOGOS:  this is incorrect.  

If one of you tells me which free photo sharing site they use, I will add a bunch of photos from the project.

The only things remaining are to have the carpet on the engine cover and side panels replaced with vinyl....  

 

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53 minutes ago, lorien said:

 

If one of you tells me which free photo sharing site they use, I will add a bunch of photos from the project.

 

 

Google photos, or become a member and help support the wealth of information on this site.

 

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photos.  let's see if this works...

Carpet removal

0RR1rLu.jpg

dzMc06g.jpg

pics of the uneven deck, and fiberglass humps

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wCtQXuf.jpg

Prepping floor:

WfivraZ.jpg

vKBWeIv.jpg

1rD4Qpi.jpg

Primer and Urethane

eQk8ebs.jpg

ugIaS6g.jpg

SeaDek Installed

qoOqjrF.jpg

6NtpyDr.jpg

EfvKAuP.jpg

 

Edited by lorien
image edits
  • Like 2
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41 minutes ago, COOP said:

Interesting. How did you talk them into it?

We've asked on behalf of customers several times to SeaDek and Gator Step, been told no.

I decided that after all the prep that went into it, I was gonna pay a few extra bucks to have the template install done by a SeaDek authorized place.  We used Live 2 Wake in Northern California and they did a great job.  I was told I could have up to two logos, but I requested the two logos + the swim step.

Once I get the rest of it done I will send some finished shots.  It looks way better in person than it does in the photos...

 

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