Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

19 23lsv in salt water on a lift without salt package


weekender

Recommended Posts

what would happen if you use a 19 23lsv in salt water on a lift without salt package?

With it being on a lift you wouldnt need to bottom paint, and if you dont use the trailer to get it in and out of the water the trailer would maintain in tact being its a steel painted trailer.

With the boat sitting on a lift in salt or mostly brackish water, would the result just be heavy increased cleaning and the eventual extreme corrosion of salt water air on the stainless parts and the rest of the boat?

 

What would the internal damage be even if the engine was flushed with a hose each time.

For reference im thinking of Lake Montauk in NY

Thanks

Link to comment

I knew someone who had a non-saltwater Response in Galveston.  The boat was on a galvanized lift and flushed using the Perko flush on the transmo everytime.  The engine was coated with anti-salt treatment.  I did notice that some of the fasteners that were not 100% stainless corroded from the salt air.  I think if you are anal about taking care of it, you should be fine.  BTW, the Response did not have anti-fouling paint.

Link to comment

I have several friends that keep theirs on a lift in brackish water. They claim they have not had any issues and as @Eagleboy99 stated, they also meticulously go through their boat after each usage. 

I prefer not to get into brackish water for many reasons. Only one boat has been brackish water that I owned. 

In my opinion I would have to agree with @85 Barefoot..  Even with meticulous cleaning and upkeep, it will show up later.. how much later, I don't know. That is my opinion and not based on facts ;)

I wish I knew Justin's or Kevin's member name as he would be a lot of help for you on this.

 

Link to comment

I don't know what would happen to your Malibu in the saltwater but I do know what has happened to mine.

Pretty much nothing that I haven't seen on Malibu's of the same age and hours that are on fresh water except a few more rust spots here and there.  It really all depends on how you take care of your boat  no matter what kind of water you are on.

I look around and I see a lot of boats on saltwater.  Some look great and some look terrible.  I think it depends on how the owner maintains their boat.

However, doesn't change the fact that once you dip your Malibu in the saltwater, even once, it will depreciate more and if you ever want to sell it a lot of people will run once they hear the word salt.  Doesn't matter how good a condition you keep it in.

I do wonder about the newer boats with all the electronics in the dash and screens and such.  There is a guy a few doors down from me with a 15 vlx.  It's been 4 years and I don't think he's had any problems yet.

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
2 hours ago, oceanbu said:

I do wonder about the newer boats with all the electronics in the dash and screens and such

I don't think that will be an issue.  Conformal coatings and all,  It is the rest of the metal that concerns me.

Link to comment

The marine package basically keeps salt water out of your engine block.  Personally, I think every boat is better off with it since winterizing is easy and you never risk a cracked block. 

Anyway, the few non-stainless fasteners will respond well to a coating of light oil once a month or so.  Spray everything with oil, including the whole engine/transmission (except the belts and pulleys), engine mounts, steering, harness connections under the dash, tower parts that move, etc.  Everything. 

Consider a really good wax or sealant plan before you put it in the water. 

Wash the trailer well with soap or salt away and fresh water if it ever goes in. 

Put a transom fitting on the boat with a flush kit so you can flush the engine with fresh water every outing.  Get the kit from salt away to get their applicator.  The star Brite one is junk.  I flush with fresh water first, then salt away, and I leave the product in place for storage (except for freezing weather).

Strongly consider the marine package before you proceed....

  • Like 2
Link to comment
2 hours ago, justgary said:

The marine package basically keeps salt water out of your engine block.  Personally, I think every boat is better off with it since winterizing is easy and you never risk a cracked block. 

Many valid points in this thread but with the closed cooling in most new boats, there is never water in the block even on non-salt engine packages.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
6 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

I don't think that will be an issue.  Conformal coatings and all,  It is the rest of the metal that concerns me.

I hear ya but I can't bring myself to spend a $150K to find out. 

Link to comment
20 hours ago, weekender said:

what would happen if you use a 19 23lsv in salt water on a lift without salt package?

With it being on a lift you wouldnt need to bottom paint, and if you dont use the trailer to get it in and out of the water the trailer would maintain in tact being its a steel painted trailer.

With the boat sitting on a lift in salt or mostly brackish water, would the result just be heavy increased cleaning and the eventual extreme corrosion of salt water air on the stainless parts and the rest of the boat?

 

What would the internal damage be even if the engine was flushed with a hose each time.

For reference im thinking of Lake Montauk in NY

Thanks

With your closed cooling It’s more about the trailer , so if you as described only dip it for maintenance or launching and retrieve semi annually and  de salt the trailer (find a way to plug rear drain holes and fill frame rails with fresh water) you will be fine , 
 

 

you can get a hose adapter to fill ballast bags snd system with fresh and empty ,  brack stinks BAD and grows lots of mildew if any is left in the bags or tanks , I lift my bags to drain fully and vacuum out residual each week 

even my Indmar motor non closed cool manual specifically states the motor is designed to go in salt water 

if you have a cool set up on brackish water  go ahead and enjoy your boat,  sell it when time to a local who admired your boat,  or inconceivabLY, KEEP YOUR BOAT!!!

yes definitely more work but most brack is as much or more fresh than salt

more polishing , yes, 

wish I had a new 23lsv on a lift in brack water!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i spent $5000 on a tandem painted galvanized trailer with SS brakes to launch it every weekend twice a weekend and the non painted galvanized will break at cross member frame rails in back if not galvanized but it takes about 5-10 years of constant dunking 

Edited by granddaddy55
Link to comment
On 11/18/2019 at 9:15 PM, hethj7 said:

Many valid points in this thread but with the closed cooling in most new boats, there is never water in the block even on non-salt engine packages.  

 

On 11/19/2019 at 8:03 AM, granddaddy55 said:

even my Indmar motor non closed cool manual specifically states the motor is designed to go in salt water 

 

Please forgive my ignorance, but what exactly does the "salt water package" provide if closed cooling is standard?  A tidy flush kit?

Link to comment
8 hours ago, justgary said:

 

 

Please forgive my ignorance, but what exactly does the "salt water package" provide if closed cooling is standard?  A tidy flush kit?

Lol, good question.  I haven’t researched it much as I am no where near salt.  

Link to comment

The indmar package is now irrelevant.

Pretty sure you get power steering instead of cable.

Pretty sure you also get a shorter warranty.

page 140 of the manual says you also get• Stainless steel gas shocks; • Grounding and bonding of all components below waterline; • The addition of sacrificial zinc anodes.

The fact that the salt series warranty is shorter (36 mos vs 60) suggests to me that warranty claims on a non-salt boat run in salt could be troublesome.  I don't have any data to back that up tho.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
3 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

The indmar package is now irrelevant.

Pretty sure you get power steering instead of cable.

Pretty sure you also get a shorter warranty.

page 140 of the manual says you also get• Stainless steel gas shocks; • Grounding and bonding of all components below waterline; • The addition of sacrificial zinc anodes.

The fact that the salt series warranty is shorter (36 mos vs 60) suggests to me that warranty claims on a non-salt boat run in salt could be troublesome.  I don't have any data to back that up tho.

That is exactly my thoughts and comment as well!

Link to comment

As soon as your boat touches salt water your resale potential is about zilch especially if it's a non salt water package...no one's ever going to believe anybody that they meticulously clean the boat every single use..

I've never opened up a Malibu screen or any of their electronics however I can tell you not all conformal coatings are equal.. was it sprayed or dipped? Fully potted would be awesome but I assure you that's not the case.. also consider every connector and every attachment to speakers and wiring and amps and all of that stuff that does not have dielectric grease all over it.. and as I've been told the saltwater packages just help the boat last a little bit longer in saltwater but ultimately Salt is the victor

Link to comment
14 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

The indmar package is now irrelevant.

Pretty sure you get power steering instead of cable.

Pretty sure you also get a shorter warranty.

page 140 of the manual says you also get• Stainless steel gas shocks; • Grounding and bonding of all components below waterline; • The addition of sacrificial zinc anodes.

The fact that the salt series warranty is shorter (36 mos vs 60) suggests to me that warranty claims on a non-salt boat run in salt could be troublesome.  I don't have any data to back that up tho.

...but no transom-mounted flush kit.

And it's a stretch to say that any components on a boat are grounded.  Bonded, yes, but not grounded.  They are different.  Here's an excellent reference: 

https://www.arrl.org/shop/Grounding-and-Bonding-for-the-Radio-Amateur

Link to comment

Another thing about salt water is the amount of salt vapor in the air.  My mother lives on the water.  I live about a mile inland.  I bought identical gas grills one year and gave one to her and kept one for myself.  Her back porch is about 100 feet from the water at about 15 feet elevation.  I'm at roughly 23 feet.  The cast aluminum pan and lid from hers rotted away in about three years, while mine lasted over 15.  The difference was proximity to the water and the nice breeze that she gets from it every day.

My boat is in great shape because I wash it and store it in my garage.  It would be in terrible shape if I left it hanging in a lift at her house.  And that doesn't even consider the potential for theft while it is on the lift.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
On 11/20/2019 at 8:59 AM, justgary said:

 

 

Please forgive my ignorance, but what exactly does the "salt water package" provide if closed cooling is standard?  A tidy flush kit?

In ‘14 What @shawndoggy said plus a painted galvanized trailer with tricked out wheels and fenders 

Link to comment
19 hours ago, justgary said:

The difference was proximity to the water and the nice breeze that she gets from it every day.

In a time long ago I worked in a San Diego are bicycle shop. The bikes that came in from “the beach” were invariably rusted out hulks. A mile inland? Coulda come from Kansas. 

Link to comment
On 11/21/2019 at 6:32 AM, The Hulk said:

As soon as your boat touches salt water your resale potential is about zilch especially if it's a non salt water package...no one's ever going to believe anybody that they meticulously clean the boat every single use..

I've never opened up a Malibu screen or any of their electronics however I can tell you not all conformal coatings are equal.. was it sprayed or dipped? Fully potted would be awesome but I assure you that's not the case.. also consider every connector and every attachment to speakers and wiring and amps and all of that stuff that does not have dielectric grease all over it.. and as I've been told the saltwater packages just help the boat last a little bit longer in saltwater but ultimately Salt is the victor

That’s not true to another coastal resident wanting a well cared for boat

Link to comment
  • 4 weeks later...

You have two issues to consider.  One is the boat actually operating in the salt water.  The salt water package with the sacrificial zinc anodes are needed when the boat stays in the salt water.  I have another large boat that stays in the salt water 24/7.  I have a diver to clean the bottom and change zincs every couple months.  The engines have closed cooling but use the salt water for the heat exchanger and aftercooler.  They also have zincs and can corrode if not properly maintained.  I have to have the boat hauled out every couple years to repaint the bottom and I also check all of the underwater gear while it is out.  My diver also keeps an eye on that.   If you are keeping the boat on a lift and flushing the engine after each use, all of these things are of little risk.  Marine growth will die once out of the water, so no need for bottom paint.  Things like the through hull fittings will likely not last as long as they won’t be flushed after each use, but it doesn’t sound like the salt water package changes that.  If they are made of brass or a quality stainless steel that should also be a non-issue but higher at risk of corrosion than in salt water.  If it were me, based on what you described, I would not worry about the marine package. 

The other issue you have, which I believe is larger, is just having the boat near salt water.  If it is truly brackish water that likely decreases.  If you are actually on salt water the marine air will have a lot of salt content and will increase the corrosion as in the BBQ example.  So a good cover for the entire boat including tower will be important.  The fiberglass / gel coat should not be an issue in the salt air, as others stated just keep a good wax on it. The biggest factor is water spray on the boat or any water taken into the bilge while you are using the boat.  If it has a high salt content it will be corrosive is not completely rinsed off after each use.  The hard part with that will be potentially having to hose down parts in the bilge if there is any water in there after each use.  All of the running gear should also be rinsed off including the wedge assembly and surf gates.  The tower will also need to be rinsed off thoroughly after each use to minimize corrosion on most things attached to it.  That could be a pain.  One thought might be to have two covers, one traditional that covers the boat but not tower.  Some of the covers also cover the swim deck which could provide additional protection to the surf gates and wedge.  You could rinse the hull and put that cover on then rinse off the tower then add a separate cover for the tower.  Rinsing the tower without soaking the interior of the boat can be a challenge.  I would also minimize the carpet options as being close to the ocean likely increases humidity as will having the boat covered all the time.  A good dryer for under the cover would also help a lot.  Being on brackish water likely lessens a lot of these concerns / risks but it will be higher then fresh water.

If it were me I would not be that concerned with the salt water package as that is really around the internal parts of the engine and the parts of the boat that would remain in salt water if not on a lift.  I would think about my plan to deal with the rest of the boat in that environment.  

Link to comment
  • 1 year later...

Hi all,

i'm looking to purchase a 2019 Axis to run in saltwater only, without the saltwater package. Lots of great advice here so thank you all for that. 

Looking to see if i can get more specifics around what type of coating i can apply pre and post salt water usage on engine + electrical parts. The previous post makes sense in in regards to flushing the engine out after every use, wiping down the exterior, using covers. Biggest concerns for me are around corrosion in engine parts that are hard to reach - for example, is it possible to flush out the bilge after after use? What are the specific coatings i can use for the engine parts? I've also heard options around not running petrol engine in sea water. Is there any thought behind swapping out petrol for diesel engine in sea water for longevity?

I'm a rookie buyer so please bear with me with all my questions.

Thanks,
Wakeywake

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...