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CumberlandSunsetter

Step by step guide on How to Winterize a 320 Monsoon

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CumberlandSunsetter

Freezing are here and all the mechanics in my area are  apparently 3 weeks out :dontknow:.  So I am going to attempt Winterizing my:

 

1997 Malibu Sunsetter LXI 

320 Monsoon EFI

 

Looking for a step by step guide? Only finding them for the VLX 350

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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1HELLUVALIFE

It should be the same as any 350 chevy block from that era. Drain exhaust manifolds and connector hose. There is a knock sensor on one side of the block, drain on the other. Then remove hoses and drain around impeller and trans cooler. Sorry its Its been a while since i had my 99. 

 

 

Edited by 1HELLUVALIFE

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BlindSquirrel

Yep, same process as the vlx... well minus the v-drive plug. 🤔

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justgary
25 minutes ago, CumberlandSunsetter said:

Freezing are here and all the mechanics in my area are  apparently 3 weeks out :dontknow:.  So I am going to attempt Winterizing my:

 

1997 Malibu Sunsetter LXI 

320 Monsoon EFI

 

Looking for a step by step guide? Only finding them for the VLX 350

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

And welcome to the crew!

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LakePowellglass

Two block drains, port side is the knock sensor. Exhaust manifolds either has a common garden hose type fitting which drains both, or each one has an independent plug. Remove both hoses at raw water pump push down to lowest part of bilge to drain. Remove water pump cover and impeller (optional). If you have a shower it needs to be drained especially the mixing valve and pump. If you have a heater it needs to be drained out. Any ballast needs to be drained completely. I always treat the fuel, run it, fog it, then drain all of the above. If you do antifreeze that’s a bit different procedure altogether.

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CumberlandSunsetter

Know of any check list?

Video?

For the 320 specifically.

Thanks guys! Owned the boat for almost 20 years.  Never attempted or had to Winterize it until now.  

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CumberlandSunsetter

Also, I was going to do antifreeze, as that is what the shops near me have always done.

Is it as simple as putting a hose into the water intake running boat until warm and then replacing water with the antifreeze?  Are there any additional steps? 

And is there a reason you don't do the antifreeze?

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SkiPablo

here is one that was posted on this site a number of years ago - but the guys above pretty much got the basics already.   If you have a heater you will need to blow that out and add some antifreeze to that unit IMHO

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1SEgBwHAwU7MddhOfRDJqNrSTcQYlijCiNo_uMu3CC9Y/edit?hl=en#

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srab
23 minutes ago, CumberlandSunsetter said:

Know of any check list?

Video?

For the 320 specifically.

Thanks guys! Owned the boat for almost 20 years.  Never attempted or had to Winterize it until now.  

I have a step by step guide for you.  It is actually for the 2003 Monsoon, but the process should be the same.  Just PM me with an email address and I'll send it to you.

As far an antifreeze, a recent poll here broke down as about a 50/50 tie on who uses antifreeze and who doesn't.  I am on the "doesn't" side.

If I were to use it, though, I think that I would drain the block/hoses/manifolds completely and, once hoses/clamps/quick detaches/plugs were reinstalled, I would then run the antifreeze in.  YMMV.

 

**edit:  SkiPablo has provided a direct link for ya.  That's the same guide that I use.

Edited by srab

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justgary
3 hours ago, LakePowellglass said:

Two block drains, port side is the knock sensor. Exhaust manifolds either has a common garden hose type fitting which drains both, or each one has an independent plug. Remove both hoses at raw water pump push down to lowest part of bilge to drain. Remove water pump cover and impeller (optional). If you have a shower it needs to be drained especially the mixing valve and pump. If you have a heater it needs to be drained out. Any ballast needs to be drained completely. I always treat the fuel, run it, fog it, then drain all of the above. If you do antifreeze that’s a bit different procedure altogether.

The engine is mounted facing forward on a direct drive, so the knock sensor is on the starboard side.

3 hours ago, CumberlandSunsetter said:

Know of any check list?

Video?

For the 320 specifically.

Thanks guys! Owned the boat for almost 20 years.  Never attempted or had to Winterize it until now.  

As the others are saying, it's just a 5.7L GM engine.  The year or rating are not important.  Block, exhaust manifolds, and raw water intake/pump are the biggies.  And like stated above, a little more attention to a shower or heater to get the water out.  Just to recap (again, all spelled out above):

Block:  Pull the knock sensor on the starboard side and the plug or petcock on the port side.  Both are very low, just above the oil pan.  Worm a small screwdriver or pick around in the holes to encourage rust flakes to come out and not block any water from leaving.  Next, remove and empty the J-Hose at the circulating pump on the front of the engine.

Manifolds:  You should find the manifold crossover hose coming from the rear of both heads.  Just open the garden hose connector (probably a little toward the starboard side) and drain both sides.

Raw water:  Disconnect the 1-1/4" hose from the raw water pump to the transmission cooler.  Check the cooler for debris.  Disconnect and drain the 1-1/4" hose from the intake side of the raw water pump.  Remove the pump impeller if you want to.

Plugs:  Remove all drain plugs from the boat, especially if it has any chance of getting water in it during the layup.

Leave yourself a reminder:  It is best to remind yourself that the engine is in a non-runnable state, so some people put the loose parts (impeller, a hose clamp, anything) in a bag and tie it to the steering wheel.  I generally just remove the driver's seat cushion and put all of the parts in the seat pan.  It works for me since I generally remove the ski locker drain plug every trip, and leave it and the wrench in the seat pan.

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DOJOLOACH2

Does the boat need to be at operating temp when engine is drained so that the thermostat is opened?

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justgary
22 minutes ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

Does the boat need to be at operating temp when engine is drained so that the thermostat is opened?

No.  The thermostat is at the top of the block, so the water will drain from below it.  The top part will drain with the manifolds and raw water hose.

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REHinH20
19 minutes ago, justgary said:

No.  The thermostat is at the top of the block, so the water will drain from below it.  The top part will drain with the manifolds and raw water hose.

And you wouldn't want to do this with hot water and equipment - your hands will thank you!

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Slayer
On 11/1/2019 at 9:52 AM, CumberlandSunsetter said:

Also, I was going to do antifreeze, as that is what the shops near me have always done.

Is it as simple as putting a hose into the water intake running boat until warm and then replacing water with the antifreeze?  Are there any additional steps? 

And is there a reason you don't do the antifreeze?

That’s a personal preference.  Your manual probably says to leave the block dry. My 1997 said that.  You’re fine either way as long an you get all the water out as step #1.

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DOJOLOACH2
22 hours ago, justgary said:

No.  The thermostat is at the top of the block, so the water will drain from below it.  The top part will drain with the manifolds and raw water hose.

Thats confusing, the pdf ski pablo says it is necessary to have engine at operating temp using a garden hose or fake a lake. Why else would this be necessary?

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SkiPablo

i don't think it's necessary to heat up the engine - i've never understood that part

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DOJOLOACH2
33 minutes ago, SkiPablo said:

i don't think it's necessary to heat up the engine - i've never understood that part

The other thing is that the indmar monsoon manual in the pdf resources on this site explicitly states how critical it is to warm engine up for oil change and winterization in bold

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wdr

I believe I read somewhere that heating the oil helps to suspend any crunchies in the oil so they will more likely be drained out. BICBW 

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Soon2BV

hot engine to drain the oil. then i let it cool before draining water, as mentioned above. 

for the heater, if you have one, i blow thru it with lung power, not compressed air. 

 

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DOJOLOACH2
On 11/1/2019 at 9:47 AM, CumberlandSunsetter said:

Know of any check list?

Video?

For the 320 specifically.

Thanks guys! Owned the boat for almost 20 years.  Never attempted or had to Winterize it until now.  

Cumberland,

Any tips on the oil change process? About to go grab some oil from Wally world and attempt. Do you put a funnel and hose under the oil pan drain bolt?

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justgary
1 hour ago, DOJOLOACH2 said:

Cumberland,

Any tips on the oil change process? About to go grab some oil from Wally world and attempt. Do you put a funnel and hose under the oil pan drain bolt?

Your engine should have an oil drain hose attached to the bottom of the oil pan.  You will find it dressed along the side of the engine with the transmission cooler lines.  It should be sticking out near the alternator, and it will have a brass cap.  It will drop through the drain hole that has the T handle plug.

Warm the engine via your favorite garden hose method (or on the water), shut it off, drop the hose through the hull, and drain the oil into a bucket.  Change the filter, add oil, run the engine to distribute the oil and check for leaks, then top off to the correct level.

The filter can be tricky.  Find a plastic bag that doesn't leak and put a few paper towels in the bottom.  Break the old filter loose, then slide the bag up over the filter and unscrew the filter, letting it drop into the bag.  I have done this several times, and I have never managed to not get some oil in the bilge, but it sure beats just letting it all run into the bilge.  Lately I use two bags; the one with the paper towels, plus a plastic grocery bag outside of that.

After you are done, you can pour a little dish soap or laundry detergent into the bilge and add some water to help emulsify the oil.  I normally shoot the bilge with a hose sprayer and then drain it.  I don't like the nasty buildup that bilges seem happy to collect, so a good wash every oil change keeps it to a minimum.

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DOJOLOACH2
3 minutes ago, justgary said:

Your engine should have an oil drain hose attached to the bottom of the oil pan.  You will find it dressed along the side of the engine with the transmission cooler lines.  It should be sticking out near the alternator, and it will have a brass cap.  It will drop through the drain hole that has the T handle plug.

Warm the engine via your favorite garden hose method (or on the water), shut it off, drop the hose through the hull, and drain the oil into a bucket.  Change the filter, add oil, run the engine to distribute the oil and check for leaks, then top off to the correct level.

The filter can be tricky.  Find a plastic bag that doesn't leak and put a few paper towels in the bottom.  Break the old filter loose, then slide the bag up over the filter and unscrew the filter, letting it drop into the bag.  I have done this several times, and I have never managed to not get some oil in the bilge, but it sure beats just letting it all run into the bilge.  Lately I use two bags; the one with the paper towels, plus a plastic grocery bag outside of that.

After you are done, you can pour a little dish soap or laundry detergent into the bilge and add some water to help emulsify the oil.  I normally shoot the bilge with a hose sprayer and then drain it.  I don't like the nasty buildup that bilges seem happy to collect, so a good wash every oil change keeps it to a minimum.

Ah yeah thanks justgary that makes things way easier, gonna take her for one more cruise and do it. I was expecting burned hands...

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ahopkinsVTX

A cut down empty coffee can works well to have under the oil filter as you are unscrewing it too. I used to punch a hole in the old filter, let drain into the coffee can and then unscrew the filter. 

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minnmarker
44 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

A cut down empty coffee can works well to have under the oil filter as you are unscrewing it too. I used to punch a hole in the old filter, let drain into the coffee can and then unscrew the filter. 

Now that is a good idea.

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shawndoggy
52 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

A cut down empty coffee can works well to have under the oil filter as you are unscrewing it too. I used to punch a hole in the old filter, let drain into the coffee can and then unscrew the filter. 

At first I was like "oh man, great idea."  Then I thought, "oh no who's going to drink a whole can's worth of canned coffee?"

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