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Seasonal Oil Change on LSA


MalibuRyan

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Hey guys,

I’m curious what everyone does for oil changes on their LSA Malibu’s. I’ve seen some use a pump to drain the oil. I just pulled the oil drain hose out through the rear plug and let it drain over night. Previous owner told me after new oil and filter were to, when running the boat, to then pull the inlet hose to the impeller(at the hull, to loosen it and remove it). Then use a hose to run water into that to run the boat out of water. Once oil is circulated and at the right level. Use the same process and then run antifreeze through that, fog the cylinders and call it good. It’s staying on my garage, which is insulated and usually never gets below 42 degree’s but I want to see what everyone else does. 
 

Thanks guys!

 

Ryan

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If your LSA has closed cooling like my ls1 you only need to get antifreeze into the heat exchanger, coolers and manifolds.  I just hook up a funnel to the intake line mentioned and run 5 gallons of the -75 pink stuff and shut it off. No need to warm up engine on plain water.

If your not close cooling I would drain it first.  

As for oil, I also drain it that way. Make a note of how much you put in to get it up to level and just do that amount each time.  Mine takes 6 quarts. I would bet your could take more like 8

i personally don’t fog. 

Edited by SkiPablo
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ahopkins22LSV

I drain the oil that way too as my schedule normally allows for me to be able to wait until the next day. 

As far as the anti-freeze, make sure the raw water system is drained before running antifreeze through it. 

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12 hours ago, SkiPablo said:

If your LSA has closed cooling like my ls1 you only need to get antifreeze into the heat exchanger, coolers and manifolds.  I just hook up a funnel to the intake line mentioned and run 5 gallons of the -75 pink stuff and shut it off. No need to warm up engine on plain water.

If your not close cooling I would drain it first.  

As for oil, I also drain it that way. Make a note of how much you put in to get it up to level and just do that amount each time.  Mine takes 6 quarts. I would bet your could take more like 8

i personally don’t fog. 

Thanks for the info. Yes, it is the closed cooling system since it’s the LSA. I think the reason to run the boat with water first is to get the oil warm and check level since I am changing the oil. So you also remove the inlet hose and pour the antifreeze directly into that as well? I got the pink stuff as well. Mine will take about 8 quarts.

3 hours ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

I drain the oil that way too as my schedule normally allows for me to be able to wait until the next day. 

As far as the anti-freeze, make sure the raw water system is drained before running antifreeze through it. 

Thanks for the info. It drained faster than I thought. I don’t want to run the impeller dry. With the closed cooling system it should hurt if the antifreeze and water mix slightly? 

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19 minutes ago, MalibuRyan said:

Thanks for the info. It drained faster than I thought. I don’t want to run the impeller dry. With the closed cooling system it should hurt if the antifreeze and water mix slightly? 

The closed cooling part has regular automotive antifreeze in it, and will be OK.  Your concern is the raw water intake, the raw water side of the exchanger, and the exhaust manifolds where you dump the raw water.

You can run the engine to temperature to thin the oil for a change, but you have no need to warm the engine to drain your raw water.  I think just pulling an end cap off of the exchanger and removing the impeller will get your intake side dry, then opening the crossover hose (if you have one) will drain the manifolds.  Why do more since you have it in a garage?

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21 hours ago, justgary said:

The closed cooling part has regular automotive antifreeze in it, and will be OK.  Your concern is the raw water intake, the raw water side of the exchanger, and the exhaust manifolds where you dump the raw water.

You can run the engine to temperature to thin the oil for a change, but you have no need to warm the engine to drain your raw water.  I think just pulling an end cap off of the exchanger and removing the impeller will get your intake side dry, then opening the crossover hose (if you have one) will drain the manifolds.  Why do more since you have it in a garage?

Thanks for the input Gary! My thinking was to be safe than sorry, garage usually doesn't get colder than 42, but didn't want to take a chance. I pulled the inlet hose off where it connects to the hull. Ran water through this to warm oil and check level after oil change. Then ran the pink stuff(antifreeze this same method to work it all the way through. Saw the pink stuff coming out the back and shut her down. Didn't dig that much into it as far as what you mentioned. Figured since I am already running water through it, just run the antifreeze as a precaution and call it good. Now she's tucked away in the garage till spring. 

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Safer than sorry is always good.  I generally don't even drain my raw water side since the boat stays in a (uninsulated) garage.  The temperature generally will dip into the high 20's for a few nights around the first of February, so I throw a couple of 15 Watt seed warmer blankets over the heat exchanger and close the hood.  If it's going to be cold for a few days, I also leave the lights on in the garage and a 60 Watt light under the engine.

I do have the advantage of using a tractor to move my boat around, so I raise the bow very high to dump as much water from the exhaust as I can before I put it away.  I lift the tongue of the trailer until the prop cage touches the ground, so the tongue ends up about six feet high or so.  Life is easier with good tools....

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3 minutes ago, justgary said:

Safer than sorry is always good.  I generally don't even drain my raw water side since the boat stays in a (uninsulated) garage.  The temperature generally will dip into the high 20's for a few nights around the first of February, so I throw a couple of 15 Watt seed warmer blankets over the heat exchanger and close the hood.  If it's going to be cold for a few days, I also leave the lights on in the garage and a 60 Watt light under the engine.

I do have the advantage of using a tractor to move my boat around, so I raise the bow very high to dump as much water from the exhaust as I can before I put it away.  I lift the tongue of the trailer until the prop cage touches the ground, so the tongue ends up about six feet high or so.  Life is easier with good tools....

I can see how that would help haha. My garage is insulated but it gets pretty cold here in WI during winter. At least I know sure now nothing will freeze and she's all good for the winter. 

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