New Stereo for my 2001 Sunsetter LXI

[gary_tenison]

I recently brought my 2001 sunsetter LXI back to life with lots of maintenance and polishing completed. Once again, its glorious and like new (I bought it in 2001). One thing I always wanted to do was to install a nice stereo, so I am happy to share that I am nearly done with it and should finish this weekend. Here is an overview and a few lessons learned.

Equipment is an Alpine head unit (Alpine 172BT) , an Alpine 5 channel X-A90V class D amp, 2 Alpine R-S65.2 component 6-1/2" speakers in dash (meaning there is a separate 2" tweeter for each - so 4 speakers), and 2 Alpine R65  6-1/2 co-axials in the rear. I also am building a 12" subwoofer sealed box (0.85ft3) which I will just lay on the floor behind the drivers seat (edit - finally ended up installing under helm). The sub box gets an Alpine 12" (D-W12D4 - twin voice coils at 4 ohm each). The 4 Ohm voice coils get wired in parallel which makes the single woofer run at 2 ohm (A 2 ohm woofer with this Amp gets 500W versus 300W for a 4 ohm). The Alpine Amp drives all four channels at 75W RMS (4ohm) or 100W RMs 2 Ohm - the sub channel is as explained. I also opted for two new Optima D34M batteries...these are pricey, and 2 aluminum billet mounting plates which are made to hold optimas down firmly.  I also bought knukoncepts Krystal kable 2 cable RCA line and a krystal kable 4 channel RCA line. And knukoncepts Kolossus flex Kable 4AWG (pure copper wire for power and ground wires). And  NVX ANL fuse holder for main power 100W (buy the fuse separately).  For speaker wire I bought GearIT pro series 14 gauge. This is great wire and comes with two lines perfectly molded into a thick round rubber sleeve - seems like lots of protection from abrasion. To crimp terminals to the wire I bought "terminals crimping tool kit, Preciva spade connectors...blah blah". Basically its a crimper and all the terminals you need in a kit. It works perfectly and makes a nice crimp...very professional...all on Amazon.

So I removed the windshield center window, and then left side window assembly. The seal strip underneath the window had spread and moved all around so I removed the old seal strip and replaced with Magzo foam insulation tape 1/8" - 3/4" wide strip I got from Amazon. It worked perfect and looks clean now. When window was off, I pulled the old speaker and dropped in the 6-1/2" and used a 2" hole saw to drill the 2"  tweeter hole near it. The tweeter dropped in perfectly.  Same on other window (rt side).

The signal wires (rca wires) need to run from stereo back to under the wheel well area, down and across the top edge of the ski locker, and up into the left side storage cubby locker. I drilled a 2" hole (and dropped a nice 2" rubber grommet in the hole) just forward of the small existing cable hole that's currently in the floor in the storage cubby hole locker (where existing battery cables were running). If you stay along the storage locker right side wall and an inch or two bow-wards of the exsiting hole, that's a nice place to drill. I razor cut a rectangle of carpet off the ride side wall in the cubby (about 19x24" I think) and used liquid nails to glue up the board to the right side wall...will mount all equipment on that.

Now, for my mistake. As I said, I bought two nice mounting plates for the Optimas, and I drilled pilot holes to screw them down. I had one fairly close to left edge, but I was certain it was far enough from the wall...but it was forward against the front bulkhead...I drilled a small hole through the hull...(closest to bulkhead and left side)...the bottom of the boat swoops up high there and it is only like an inch thick!...holy crap. My bad. Well, now I need to fills that hole. In any case. DONT mount your batteries too close to that bulkhead. I guess I know now why the original batteries were back away from that forward wall...its because there is not much floor there. I suggest moving away and using 3/4" stainless wood screws - that's sufficient...I had used 1.25" long  #14's I believe. Hopefully, I will help ensure nobody else ruins their day by drilling a hole in the bottom of their boat. Its a small hole and not visible so I will repair...but it was dumb.

This weekend, I will finish install and post my learnings...It should be great.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 21, 2019 by gary_tenison
Added detail

[Slayer]

Nice!!  Be sure to post some pics!

 

 

[gary_tenison]

ok...spent big part of saturday getting the windshield set correctly. Thank god I found a great online video of a guy installing a boat windshield. It looked like he may have been in boat factory but he never said.  Video is "how to install a windshield" on UTUBE. He installed the windshield in about 10 minutes. Wow...I used the same method but it took me hours. I was really worried that the window wouldn't line up right. But I got it perfect and I eliminated the big gap that was created by a combination of window movement and boat splay. Now its perfect.

I used #10 -1" stainless panheads around the front side of the window where the windshield channel gap is larger. I used #8-1" panheads along sides because the channel is more narrow. The big heads can catch on the channel lip if you use the #10's there. Also, the last screw on the tip of the windshield is a #8 truss screw. Use a #8- 1-1/2" stainless "oval head". I got it in home depot. 

BTW, when I had the windshield off I also removed the dash pieces such as vent cover and glovebox lid. I then polished the dash nice.

Pulling it all together tomorrow. I never posted pictures here but I'll have to try. 

 

Edited October 13, 2019 by gary_tenison

[Nitrousbird]

I don't understand why you are putting the sub behind the driver's seat.  There is plenty of room under the dash where it belongs.

[gary_tenison]

I didn't see a good way to get it under the dash. I didnt want to saw up the floor kick panel and both the left and right side look like weak spots to attach too. If you have a diagram of how to do it right I am all ears. I want to build a sealed box for it too.

[Slurpee]

If your ‘01 LXi is anything like my ‘01 VLX I just removed the kick panel and replaced it with a ported JL10W6. I stepped out the front surface a bit with a radius to blend with the side trim in the cockpit. 

anyways, hope that gives you some inspiration. 

[Slurpee]

@gary_tenison, I found some more pictures to give you the idea.  I never got around to putting carpet on my box.  It looked fine to me just coated in black Duratex.

 

Edited October 14, 2019 by Slurpee

[minnmarker]

If you want to save a WHOLE LOT of work pull out the kick plate and put in a QBOMB with an infinite baffle woofer.

[Michigan boarder]

On 10/13/2019 at 7:20 AM, Nitrousbird said:

I don't understand why you are putting the sub behind the driver's seat.  There is plenty of room under the dash where it belongs.

I agree, this is a critical area in my direct drive boat, lots of wet stuff goes behind the driver's seat.  I put a Basslink sub under the driver's helm on my boat, it fits in between the wall and the kick panel perfectly and sounds great.

[Nitrousbird]

19 hours ago, gary_tenison said:

I didn't see a good way to get it under the dash. I didnt want to saw up the floor kick panel and both the left and right side look like weak spots to attach too. If you have a diagram of how to do it right I am all ears. I want to build a sealed box for it too.

Remove the kick plate.  Just a few hidden screws holding it there.  Big empty space behind it.  

[gary_tenison]

Thanks for all the ideas guys. On my 2001 Sunsetter LXI it does not seem l;ike the kickplate comes out with a few screws. It looks integral to the floor and the inset fiberglass floor pan. Appears to be all one piece.  That said...I am looking at building a box that would sit just in front of the existing kickplate and only sticks out about 6", running 21 inches wide and up about 11.25"...  I think it will fit well and may Ill velcro it in place, so If I want to I can remove it or place behind driver chair.

[Nitrousbird]

40 minutes ago, gary_tenison said:

Thanks for all the ideas guys. On my 2001 Sunsetter LXI it does not seem l;ike the kickplate comes out with a few screws. It looks integral to the floor and the inset fiberglass floor pan. Appears to be all one piece.  That said...I am looking at building a box that would sit just in front of the existing kickplate and only sticks out about 6", running 21 inches wide and up about 11.25"...  I think it will fit well and may Ill velcro it in place, so If I want to I can remove it or place behind driver chair.

It will come out.  Use a magnet, there are screws holding it there.

[cla10beck]

I just looked at a picture of a 2001 sunsetter LXi online and it looks like the same helm floor setup as my old 1998 sunsetter where there is fiberglass in the floor that angles up on the footplate.  If that is the case, it is going to take some cutting to remove that kick plate.

Edited October 17, 2019 by cla10beck

[Slurpee]

19 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

It will come out.  Use a magnet, there are screws holding it there.

He's right.  There are screws in there.  They're just jimmy'd in wherever the dude with the driver felt like putting them. You'll be offended by how they're in there willy nilly.

[gary_tenison]

its all one piece on my boat guys...no screws to remove kickplate.  I decided to make a 0.85 sealed box to lay in front of kick plate...its 4" deep on bottom moving to 8.25" deep and 20" wide at top. Seems like it will fit...everything else is mounted, including my two optima batteries...will fire it up this weekend. Got help up with trips to UK and Las Vegas last couple weeks and then rain last sunday...taking longer then expected....

[gary_tenison]

oh...btw...the liquid nails did not setup well and the 3/4" plywood amplifier and equipment mounting board did not stay up on the side wall...so I took it down, scrapped up all the old liquid nails, and used my leftover Plexus MA530 two part epoxy which I had used to seal the HDS box inside...now that sucker stayed glued to the sidewall!

Edited October 23, 2019 by gary_tenison

[ORMailbuboater]

On 10/11/2019 at 6:39 AM, gary_tenison said:

Now, for my mistake. As I said, I bought two nice mounting plates for the Optimas, and I drilled pilot holes to screw them down. I had one fairly close to left edge, but I was certain it was far enough from the wall...but it was forward against the front bulkhead...I drilled a small hole through the hull...(closest to bulkhead and left side)...the bottom of the boat swoops up high there and it is only like an inch thick!...holy crap.

Nice upgrade!

I did the same thing a few years ago!  On my 2001 Sunsetter LXI when installing dual batteries.  Thought I was missing the side too.  I consulted a fiberglass expert who told me not to just fill the hole with filler. He said to fix the hole properly requires extensive repair to fiberglass.    He explained that vibration, structural flexing, due to waves, etc...  will cause the plug to leak.  Leak will be internal to the fiberglass then over time will lead to a weak spot which will cost considerably more to fix later.  I took his advice an had the Gel coat and Fiberglass repaired professionally. Cost me ~1200 bucks to have that small hole repaired properly.  Painful lesson.  Just thought you may want to know what I did for the same issue.  My two cents to consult an expert in Gelcoat\ fiberglass repair. 

  

 

Edited October 31, 2019 by ORMailbuboater

[gary_tenison]

Well. I got the box made and the malibu carpet came from overtons today, so tomorrow is final day of install. I have some pictures of work to date to share but i dont keep my pictures online. I dont know how to post pics.  

[gary_tenison]

ok...finished...trying to post some pictures here. I built a sub box out of 3/4" exterior plywood and carpeted with Malibu Daystar taupe carpet from Overtons. I wanted the box to be easily removable so I would have easy access to that area. For instance, I am going to replace my steering cable again and now I just have to grab the sub box stainless handle on top and lift it out. It's secured by industrial strength 1" wide hook and loop strips...it snaps in well but I am also going to add a horizontal strip above the two vertical strips. The box itself is a sealed enclosure of 0.85ft3. Internal Dimensions roughly 4" on bottom, moving up at a 60 degree angle (same angle as footplate back wall) about 13" and then the top is about 8.25" to the front face, which is about 11.5" (face is then about 13" counting the thickness of the top and bottom sheets...just enough to mount the Alpine 12" woofer). Approx dimensions...I don't have my notes in front of me.

I used a dual voice coil (4 ohm each) alpine 12" sub which I wired in parallel for a 2ohm unit. This Alpine amp drives that 2 ohm load at 500W RMS. The front and rear speakers are 4 ohm loads driven at 75W RMS each. I terminated each speaker wire at the amp (14 ga pure copper wire) with a copper butt connector so they could be easily clamped into the amp. Each butt connector end was also heat shrink wrapped to minimize wire exposure to potential water (wet vest or something). All cables I pulled through the boat were encased in split plastic sheathing which I wrapped with electrical tape about every 12". 

let me know if this google link to my album works ...https://photos.app.goo.gl/sjRoh5mZNX5wiEoS6

 

 

 

 

[minnmarker]

Link to pics works.

PDX-V9?  I've got the same amp.  It rocks!

[MalibuMichael]

where did you get the 2 aluminum billet mounting plates for the batteries?  I have the same ones

 

[gary_tenison]

 i found on amazon. Optima battery tray - billet aluminum was the name. 

[jsmithsole]

Nice work! I have a Sunsetter LX (no I) so I've always ran two marine bazooka tubes under the back seats.

[gary_tenison]

Ok...after working for a while to make the stereo sound awesome, I have decided to install a signal processor. I am going to plug in a JLAudio Twk-88 signal processor. I have some strange imbalance in mid range... I will play pink noise and use the signal processor to try to get a better balance across frequency spectrum. I decided on the twk-88 due to its small footprint and its highly adjustable parametric 10 ranges per channel. Using the pink noise I should be able to pinpoint my problem and adjust it out. I'll post pictures and let you know how it goes...and post pictures. If it doesn't solve my issue, I'll switch to an AudioControl DM-810...which offers more bands to play with but has other shortfalls...In my opinion, neither one is perfect.

[Steve B.]

Gary,

Wouldn't surprise me if your issue isnt just a simple phase reverse somewhere.

Steve B.