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Trailer Rust


Setter2016

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I’m seeing rust where the bunker supports are as well as the area where the wheel connects to the trailer. Everywhere else there are rusty areas seem fine but these areas are peeling away.
 

Any ideas on how to stop the rust from spreading? 

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Edited by Raleigh
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Looked through more threads and more research. I just ordered new tires and really want to get some more years out of my "new" 2016 trailer. I would like to stop the rust process so I imagine I'm gonna get out the sander and try and seal and spray this thing. Any ideas on how not to F this up royally? 

Products I'm looking into:

  • Rust Converter ULTRA, Highly Effective Professional Grade Rust Repair (1 Gallon)
  • POR-15 40909 Stop Rust Kit, Permanent Corrosion Preventive System, Gloss Black
  • Fluid Film 11.75 oz. Spray 6-pak
  • Rust-Oleum Automotive 248658 10.25-Ounce Rust Reformer Spray, Black
  • Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Gal
  • Sander, dremel tool, wire brush, spray paint to coat when complete

I am planning on sanding some of this off, using the rust stop kit and then coating in the rust converter.. Any ideas? 

Saw this recommendation in an old post: 

Sand rust off and get some matching paint and touch it up. I used some enamel engine paint on the scrapes on the bottom of my trailer. I went all out on fenders though and stripped them to bare metal, epoxy primer then base cleared them with ppg auto paint. It just depends on how much time/money you want to spend on it.

Spending a week with the boat in the water this summer (First week of August) and need to replace/repair the bunks, so I am hoping to knock all this out in an afternoon while kids are napping. Or at night by headlamp. 

Edited by Raleigh
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ahopkins22LSV

As long as it’s just surface rust, sanding it all away then priming (por-15 or other) and repainted should work. Trailers live a rough life though. None of your pictures are necessarily concerning to me from a structure standpoint. 

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8 hours ago, Raleigh said:

Looked through more threads and more research. I just ordered new tires and really want to get some more years out of my "new" 2016 trailer. I would like to stop the rust process so I imagine I'm gonna get out the sander and try and seal and spray this thing. Any ideas on how not to F this up royally? 

Products I'm looking into:

  • Rust Converter ULTRA, Highly Effective Professional Grade Rust Repair (1 Gallon)
  • POR-15 40909 Stop Rust Kit, Permanent Corrosion Preventive System, Gloss Black
  • Fluid Film 11.75 oz. Spray 6-pak
  • Rust-Oleum Automotive 248658 10.25-Ounce Rust Reformer Spray, Black
  • Corroseal Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Gal
  • Sander, dremel tool, wire brush, spray paint to coat when complete

I am planning on sanding some of this off, using the rust stop kit and then coating in the rust converter.. Any ideas? 

Saw this recommendation in an old post: 

Sand rust off and get some matching paint and touch it up. I used some enamel engine paint on the scrapes on the bottom of my trailer. I went all out on fenders though and stripped them to bare metal, epoxy primer then base cleared them with ppg auto paint. It just depends on how much time/money you want to spend on it.

Spending a week with the boat in the water this summer (First week of August) and need to replace/repair the bunks, so I am hoping to knock all this out in an afternoon while kids are napping. Or at night by headlamp. 

I'll add another option to your list.  Rust Bullet - https://www.rustbullet.com/

I found that it bonded a lot better than POR 15 does.  I used both products over the years on jeep frames

Typically with the rust convertors you just use a wire wheel/brush to knock off the loose stuff and leave the rest so that the convertor has something to bond to.  Follow the instructions on whatever you use.  If you sand down to clean metal, most rust converting paint will just fall off in a sheet.

 

Edited by oldjeep
  • Thanks 2
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14 hours ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

As long as it’s just surface rust, sanding it all away then priming (por-15 or other) and repainted should work. Trailers live a rough life though. None of your pictures are necessarily concerning to me from a structure standpoint. 

Thank you @ahopkinsVTX that makes me feel a lot better!

14 hours ago, oldjeep said:

I'll add another option to your list.  Rust Bullet - https://www.rustbullet.com/

I found that it bonded a lot better than POR 15 does.  I used both products over the years on jeep frames

Typically with the rust convertors you just use a wire wheel/brush to knock off the loose stuff and leave the rest so that the convertor has something to bond to.  Follow the instructions on whatever you use.  If you sand down to clean metal, most rust converting paint will just fall off in a sheet.

 

Thank you! I don’t really know much about the converter but that makes sense to not sand first. Which would you recommend? 

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3 minutes ago, Raleigh said:

Thank you @ahopkinsVTX that makes me feel a lot better!

Thank you! I don’t really know much about the converter but that makes sense to not sand first. Which would you recommend? 

I liked the rust bullet, seemed to go on a lot thicker.  You need to topcoat it since it is silver, but por 15 has to be topcoat Ed as well since it is not uv stable and turns purplish after while in the sun.

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  • 1 month later...

Recieved my 2020 23 lsv and sent back the trailer. Im sorry guys but at this price point. I expected a better trailer. I shouldnt see so much rust on a new trailer. I have owned many boats and trailers. That was a disaster waiting to happen. The dealer is trying tonfind us a galvanized or aluminum trailer or we will ask for a refund and buy one from another manufacturer. Great boat but really bad trailers and they are not cheap either.

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4 hours ago, jcancio said:

Recieved my 2020 23 lsv and sent back the trailer. Im sorry guys but at this price point. I expected a better trailer. I shouldnt see so much rust on a new trailer. I have owned many boats and trailers. That was a disaster waiting to happen. The dealer is trying tonfind us a galvanized or aluminum trailer or we will ask for a refund and buy one from another manufacturer. Great boat but really bad trailers and they are not cheap either.

Galvanized.  Raw looks like silver flake.  :)  Or paint/powder coat over galv.

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1 hour ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Galvanized.  Raw looks like silver flake.  :)  Or paint/powder coat over galv.

Lets see what they come up with or i will begin my trailer search bit thanks for the heads up the boat is tuscan gold flake and white

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I'd go with aluminum if possible, then galvanized as a second choice.  The main difference I see is that with steel they insist on using closed tube instead of I-beam.  Open construction lets the water drain away instead of getting trapped.

I'd also insist on stainless or plastic brake lines as well.

I honestly don't know why people accept painted steel trailers at all.

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This should make you feel better about the amount of rust you have... check out the brakes on my 2013 Boatmate trailer.

  IMG_3378-1.jpg.2109c53a552be51781415705bIMG_3377.jpg.ddc4ea55e13a18faf544bd7cfef

 

IMG_3380.jpg.f172a8bda47dd405ce5eefd48fb

 

 

 

 

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On 7/17/2020 at 6:46 AM, jcancio said:

Recieved my 2020 23 lsv and sent back the trailer. Im sorry guys but at this price point. I expected a better trailer. I shouldnt see so much rust on a new trailer. I have owned many boats and trailers. That was a disaster waiting to happen. The dealer is trying tonfind us a galvanized or aluminum trailer or we will ask for a refund and buy one from another manufacturer. Great boat but really bad trailers and they are not cheap either.

Yep, my brothers 2019 25 lsv trailer has a good amount of rust too. It’s the line-x white finish. Couple miles from ocean water here in Kansas.

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On 6/6/2020 at 9:28 PM, oldjeep said:

I liked the rust bullet, seemed to go on a lot thicker.  You need to topcoat it since it is silver, but por 15 has to be topcoat Ed as well since it is not uv stable and turns purplish after while in the sun.

I research both after your comment. There’s a black version of the Rust Bullet but I’m gonna stick with the silver as I think it may work a bit better. 

What kind of brush did you use? Thanks man! 

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15 hours ago, Raleigh said:

I research both after your comment. There’s a black version of the Rust Bullet but I’m gonna stick with the silver as I think it may work a bit better. 

What kind of brush did you use? Thanks man! 

The cheap under $2 2 inch wood handle brushes at home Depot.  Don't care that some of the bristles fall out and just throw away when done.

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i have a galvanized painted boatmate with all non painted mechanical is SS, i highly recommend one,  biggest flaw is the UFP master cylinder is just metal and it just rusted out and needs replacement snd flush of brake  lines now but I also get a new break away csble that i need with the cable coming with/a part of the new master cylinder ,  note; because my tongue gets dipped dunking the boat to launch i will be doing this again but probably every. 3 or 4 years , at 6 years when i finally inspected it was pure rust milk inside and mostly empty from the rusted through reservoir 

below is 6 years in brack water launching 85 + times a year

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Edited by granddaddy55
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The dealer is trying to figure it out. Its hard for me to understand. Im obligated tonput marine grade products on buildings and these lake boat manufactures are using regular non galvanized steel trailers and non marine grade shocks, low grade stainless steel all while asking top dollar and talking about there new misters for 2021. Marine grade simple it should not be an upgrade for a boat to be able to tolerate the ocean or water for that matter. Tighten up Malibu

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On 7/23/2020 at 1:01 AM, SuicideChopShop said:

This should make you feel better about the amount of rust you have... check out the brakes on my 2013 Boatmate trailer.

  IMG_3378-1.jpg.2109c53a552be51781415705bIMG_3377.jpg.ddc4ea55e13a18faf544bd7cfef

 

IMG_3380.jpg.f172a8bda47dd405ce5eefd48fb

 

 

 

 

thats crazy im sorry your having to deal with that. I guess being from miami i am not used to what these lake boat manufacturers and freshwater trailer manufacturers get away with. That is just downrite dangerous. 

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On 7/23/2020 at 12:21 PM, oldjeep said:

Has the trailer been sitting in the ocean?

No i sent it back it came from central florida do not want to name the dealer because they have been great its nit there fault. Its been 2 weeks they are still trying to figure it out

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On 7/18/2020 at 2:15 PM, justgary said:

I'd go with aluminum if possible, then galvanized as a second choice.  The main difference I see is that with steel they insist on using closed tube instead of I-beam.  Open construction lets the water drain away instead of getting trapped.

I'd also insist on stainless or plastic brake lines as well.

I honestly don't know why people accept painted steel trailers at all.

Agreed if everyone says no i will not accept that the dealers will force these manufactures to send marine grade trailers

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On 6/6/2020 at 9:22 PM, Raleigh said:

Thank you @ahopkinsVTX that makes me feel a lot better!

Thank you! I don’t really know much about the converter but that makes sense to not sand first. Which would you recommend? 

 

On 7/17/2020 at 11:55 AM, Eagleboy99 said:

Galvanized.  Raw looks like silver flake.  :)  Or paint/powder coat over galv.

Thanks 

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13 hours ago, jcancio said:

Agreed if everyone says no i will not accept that the dealers will force these manufactures to send marine grade trailers

What's really crazy is that it doesn't even seem like an option.  I don't know what a factory trailer costs, but it would only cost a few hundred bucks for the manufacturer to galvanize the steel parts.  It would only cost a few hundred more to upgrade the hardware to stainless. 

With the number of people on this site talking about trailer rust, you would think that spending an extra grand at the beginning would save plenty of down time and repairs as the rust sets in.  And the extra expense for marine grade is certainly cheaper than hunting down and buying a replacement trailer.

I replaced my trailer with an aluminum one, but I had to insist on a short tongue (for some reason they want to make aluminum tongues six feet too long) and I had to agree to build my own prop cage.  If others would start ordering from them, I would give them my cage drawing so they could just add it at the factory.  The new trailer has the same overall dimensions the old one had.

XUykWwq.jpg

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28 minutes ago, justgary said:

What's really crazy is that it doesn't even seem like an option.  I don't know what a factory trailer costs, but it would only cost a few hundred bucks for the manufacturer to galvanize the steel parts.  It would only cost a few hundred more to upgrade the hardware to stainless. 

With the number of people on this site talking about trailer rust, you would think that spending an extra grand at the beginning would save plenty of down time and repairs as the rust sets in.  And the extra expense for marine grade is certainly cheaper than hunting down and buying a replacement trailer.

I replaced my trailer with an aluminum one, but I had to insist on a short tongue (for some reason they want to make aluminum tongues six feet too long) and I had to agree to build my own prop cage.  If others would start ordering from them, I would give them my cage drawing so they could just add it at the factory.  The new trailer has the same overall dimensions the old one had.

XUykWwq.jpg

I suspect the demand for a galvanized trailer would be light based on all the color matched, fancy wheel trailers I see on this site.

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