Fake lake upgrade question

[MAXPOWERS1207]

I  have the plunger fake lake and would like to update to the tee with garden hose adapter.  I don't have a valve where the water uptake hose comes in to the boat.   Do you guys think if I put a check valve before the tee to prevent the water from escaping out the intake hose it would be ok or should I just install a ball valve? 

[formulaben]

3-way ball valve with garden hose input.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=40615

 

And you'll probably need some barbs depending on your setup: straight or elbow.

Edited November 10, 2019 by formulaben
added barb links

[MadMan]

10 hours ago, MAXPOWERS1207 said:

I  have the plunger fake lake and would like to update to the tee with garden hose adapter.  I don't have a valve where the water uptake hose comes in to the boat.   Do you guys think if I put a check valve before the tee to prevent the water from escaping out the intake hose it would be ok or should I just install a ball valve? 

I have a T installed in the low point of the pickup hose, between the v-drive and pump.  The garden hose just fills up the hose and works great.  If you put a check valve in, you'll be putting full city water pressure (~55psi) on your system, which I wouldn't recommend.

[MAXPOWERS1207]

11 hours ago, formulaben said:

3-way ball valve with garden hose input.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/sh/control/product/~product_id=40615

 

And you'll probably need some barbs depending on your setup: straight or elbow.

Thanks... that's a much easier and better idea. 

[mackie12]

1 hour ago, MadMan said:

I have a T installed in the low point of the pickup hose, between the v-drive and pump.  The garden hose just fills up the hose and works great.  If you put a check valve in, you'll be putting full city water pressure (~55psi) on your system, which I wouldn't recommend.

I always wondered about this, the PSI aspect. What pressure would be deemed "safe" for a supply line? Here in Calgary it is not uncommon to see 100+ PSI water pressure.

[Michigan boarder]

To regulate the water pressure you can simply not crack the valve all the way open at the outside spigot too, I've metered lots of things that way.  Start the boat with it at half pressure or something, so it's flowing and ready and then you can open the valve some more if you raise RPMs.

[MAXPOWERS1207]

2 hours ago, MadMan said:

I have a T installed in the low point of the pickup hose, between the v-drive and pump.  The garden hose just fills up the hose and works great.  If you put a check valve in, you'll be putting full city water pressure (~55psi) on your system, which I wouldn't recommend.

So you have your connection after the v drive?   Is that typical?   I assumed water would need to go through vdrive 

[mackie12]

43 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

To regulate the water pressure you can simply not crack the valve all the way open at the outside spigot too, I've metered lots of things that way.  Start the boat with it at half pressure or something, so it's flowing and ready and then you can open the valve some more if you raise RPMs.

what about using an RV pressure regulator?

[lukehartwig]

28 minutes ago, MAXPOWERS1207 said:

So you have your connection after the v drive?   Is that typical?   I assumed water would need to go through vdrive 

I've always put my hose after the V-Drive. Logical since I don't engage the V-Drive (put it in gear) outside of the lake and not spinning the V-Drive. Thus, no need to cool it. I think in the newer models, there an apparatus designed in with a hose connector and a filter. Is it also installed after the V-Drive?

[MadMan]

One other thing you need is a good way to block the garden hose connection, or the it won't work in the lake.

[formulaben]

3 hours ago, mackie12 said:

I always wondered about this, the PSI aspect. What pressure would be deemed "safe" for a supply line? Here in Calgary it is not uncommon to see 100+ PSI water pressure.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIG-25-psi-Hose-Thread-Pressure-Regulator-D46/100180295?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-204758564-_-100180295-_-N

[kylesullens]

I used this one.  It cost a little more, but I don't have to open/close a valve to make it work:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Flush-Engine-Valve-1-inch-Hose/dp/B0000AZ4ZG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=boat+flush+valve&qid=1563472127&s=gateway&sr=8-4

 

I connect a 4' peice of garden hose to it with a plug in the hose.  That way when I need to hook up the water supply, I don't have to pull the engine compartment partitions or climb into the storage locker.   Connect the hose, turn on the water, run engine.

I put this valve in the raw water supply line, just before the impeller (port side).  Agreed that you don't need to run water through the VDrive while on the trailer for engine maintenance.

Edited July 18, 2019 by kylesullens

[mackie12]

I use the same as you @kylesullens but I am curious if we should not be putting an inline regulator so we are not hitting the motor with 80+ psi.....

[kylesullens]

26 minutes ago, mackie12 said:

I use the same as you @kylesullens but I am curious if we should not be putting an inline regulator so we are not hitting the motor with 80+ psi.....

@mackie12 I just open the hose faucet to about 20% so as to not over-supply the system with water.  

[Michigan boarder]

1 hour ago, kylesullens said:

 

I connect a 4' peice of garden hose to it with a plug in the hose.  That way when I need to hook up the water supply, I don't have to pull the engine compartment partitions or climb into the storage locker.   Connect the hose, turn on the water, run engine.

 

I do this too, and the other good thing about that 4' hose is if you take on water for any reason as long as the engine will still run you can shut off the raw water supply, open your hose and your engine will suck all the water out of the boat.  Got the idea from someone else on this site years ago.

I had a flush-pro for 4 years but it cracked eventually, I didn't get all the water out of it when winterizing.  So I built my own whichwas really, really simple.

[kylesullens]

1 minute ago, Michigan boarder said:

I do this too, and the other good thing about that 4' hose is if you take on water for any reason as long as the engine will still run you can shut off the raw water supply, open your hose and your engine will suck all the water out of the boat.  Got the idea from someone else on this site years ago.

I had a flush-pro for 4 years but it cracked eventually, I didn't get all the water out of it when winterizing.  So I built my own whichwas really, really simple.

 

That is a clever use of the valve.  I took on a bunch of water last summer (scooped the nose into a HUGE wave - long story).  I popped the hose off my PnP bag and used the ballast pump to pump the water out.

Sometimes you just have to go MacGyver and get it done.

[MadMan]

With a simple T between the v-drive and the raw water pump, nothing else is needed.  After connecting and turning on the garden hose wide open, water starts running out of the pickup in the hull.  Then I just start the engine and the water stops coming out of the hull pickup.  No regulators, no check valves, no problems.  Pretty simple.

Edited July 18, 2019 by MadMan

[formulaben]

1 hour ago, kylesullens said:

 

That is a clever use of the valve.  I took on a bunch of water last summer (scooped the nose into a HUGE wave - long story).  I popped the hose off my PnP bag and used the ballast pump to pump the water out.

Sometimes you just have to go MacGyver and get it done.

I mentioned that and got ripped for it...to each his own, but it's comforting to know I have that feature if the worst were to happen.

[justgary]

Late to the show, but I have a PVC check valve in line before a PVC tee.  I have never worried about pressure. 

When I had a blue globe run dry impeller, I could hear the water bypassing it when I turned the hose on and water would eventually run out the exhaust.  It doesn't happen with a black rubber impeller, but I'm sure that it would do it at some pressure. 

I also ran a garden hose segment from the tee to the corner of the transom and installed a Marpac stainless fitting through the transom.  I would not use the popular chrome plated one. 

[kylesullens]

On 7/21/2019 at 4:55 PM, justgary said:

Late to the show, but I have a PVC check valve in line before a PVC tee.  I have never worried about pressure. 

When I had a blue globe run dry impeller, I could hear the water bypassing it when I turned the hose on and water would eventually run out the exhaust.  It doesn't happen with a black rubber impeller, but I'm sure that it would do it at some pressure. 

I also ran a garden hose segment from the tee to the corner of the transom and installed a Marpac stainless fitting through the transom.  I would not use the popular chrome plated one. 

I plan to do the thru-transom fitting.  That would make running the boat out of the water as simple as it gets.  Don't even have to open the engine compartment.

[justgary]

2 hours ago, kylesullens said:

I plan to do the thru-transom fitting.  That would make running the boat out of the water as simple as it gets.  Don't even have to open the engine compartment.

Definitely get the Marpac 7-0418.  About $30 or so.  Stainless!

I installed mine a few inches from the starboard stern lift eye.  It matches the location of the factory flush fitting from that era (which also uses the Marpac part).

[prwkbrder]

Can someone please post some pics

[formulaben]

Pictures of the thru-transom fitting?

https://www.iboats.com/shop/marpac-cast-ss-water-inlet.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwv8nqBRDGARIsAHfR9wDZB-8yERnr9fo1SMRrGR7qdREEgS18ahYZuTabmQ4IUdVDnid9TBAaAq-iEALw_wcB

 

[SlingShot]

Just cracking the valve at your house doesn't limit pressure (well...it would for a short period of time)  If left with it cracked, will slowly build to full house pressure.  Won't take long.  It will, however limit flow indefinitely, and, if you are starting your engine to warm it up to do an oil change, you will want sufficient flow to cool the engine.

 I have run my tee between the pickup and the vee-drive at full pressure/flow from he house without issue.  After about 20 seconds without starting the engine, it just runs out the exhaust.

If you are really worried about the pressure.  (In my experience, I don't think you need to be)  Use an RV pressure regulator as suggested in an earlier post by mackie12.  They are super cheap and easy to use.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rv+pressure+water&qid=1565892853&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

[minnmarker]

5 minutes ago, SlingShot said:

Just cracking the valve at your house doesn't limit pressure (well...it would for a short period of time)  If left with it cracked, will slowly build to full house pressure.  Won't take long.  It will, however limit flow indefinitely, and, if you are starting your engine to warm it up to do an oil change, you will want sufficient flow to cool the engine.

 I have run my tee between the pickup and the vee-drive at full pressure/flow from he house without issue.  After about 20 seconds without starting the engine, it just runs out the exhaust.

If you are really worried about the pressure.  (In my experience, I don't think you need to be)  Use an RV pressure regulator as suggested in an earlier post by mackie12.  They are super cheap and easy to use.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rv+pressure+water&qid=1565892853&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

I address this issue by putting a Y in the hose line with one end going to the T in my raw water intake line and one end attached to the top of the tower.  Flow is not restricted and there is a constant "head pressure" of about 6 feet of water.  Works well.