Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

383 hammerhead crank no start


Recommended Posts

06 247 lsv with 383 hammerhead motor.  We were surfing Friday and the ol girl up and died. All display, music and lights stayed on, engine just quit like you turned off the key. It had done this a few times earlier in the week but always started right back up.  This time there's no spark. 

Changed cap and rotor (a little grungy) and still no joy.  

Checked every connection i can find near motor cannon plug etc all look good no corrosion. 

Read there is a red reset button but can't seem to find it.

Have an appointment at the bu dealer but it's 2 weeks away

Link to comment

Killswitch already bypassed wires have been labeled by previous owner/ mechanic makes me think this had been an issue in the past. Had local mechanic look at it Friday and he thinks it's on the computer side of things. 

Link to comment

Check your fuel pressure and ignition spark.  If there is no spark, see if the ignition module or coil assembly has failed.  The white dot on the module often turns yellow when it goes bad.  It may help If you have access to Diacom to see if there are any fault codes to make troubleshooting easier.

Link to comment
  • 1 year later...

 So boat still doesn't run a year later, wife is gonna kill me.  Dealers won't work on it around me so I'm on my own. Got it plugged into diacom twice, first time had many codes. Replaced coil module, crank sensor and finally ecm and still no spark.  Missed last summer and tried to get it worked on again this spring no luck.  Plugged in again got these codes in pic.  So i just replaced the throttle position sensor in the hand control.  Nothing.  Only thing left i can think of is the one on the throttle body but that's big bucks.  Im going to try to plug into diacom again but it might be a while.  Any thoughts? afsvo-s4jcp.jpg

 

Link to comment

TPS1 vs TPS2 seems like it's comparing throttle position on your throttle lever vs the opening of the throttle body and not seeing a correlation.  What sort of TPS is big bucks on these?  I thought it was a pretty cheap sensor on most boats.  You can get one for my boat at O'Reilly for like 50 bucks.

Edited by UWSkier
Link to comment
19 minutes ago, Anwhipple said:

Dealers won't work on it around me so I'm on my own.

I'm confused.  Do you want it running, or do *you* want to get it running?  This could be anything from a bad sensor to a bad connector in the harness (my vote).

It seems that you already hit the low hanging fruit, so it's time to get the ECM manual out and follow procedures.  You'll have to check things with a meter, carefully inspect connectors, and all the fun stuff that the guy at the dealership hates to do.  If you wanted to watch me go through hours of mundane work and ask why I'm doing what I'm doing, then wondering why I need a break from it to think for a while, I'd probably tell you to take a hike also.

If you simply don't want to pay dealer prices, buy your own copy of the software and download the manual so you can fix it.

Link to comment

Those codes refer to problems with the electric throttle body TAC motor / TPS on the engine.  It usually needs to be unplugged or not making a connection to get that many codes.  Here is the service manual with troubleshooting instructions.  Your first code starts on page 5-136.

https://cdn.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/Indmar_MEFI5-5Amanual.pdf

 

 

Link to comment

Feel for you Anwhipple. Wondering if there is anyway possible to take an ECM out of circuit and get an engine to run ? Possibly easier might be to run some kind of jumper cables between source and receive side of any possible bad connections like Justgary mentioned that could possibly keep it from either allowing spark, or allowing fuel to run. And back to basics sorry... is there fuel pressure? How does it sound while cranking? Whatever it is, sounds like it didn't go bad quite instantly, it took just a little while. So, I am thinking not the timing chain. With the state it's in, I wonder if checking base timing is possible while just cranking?

Keep us posted,

Steve B.

Link to comment
3 hours ago, Steve B. said:

Feel for you Anwhipple. Wondering if there is anyway possible to take an ECM out of circuit and get an engine to run ? Possibly easier might be to run some kind of jumper cables between source and receive side of any possible bad connections like Justgary mentioned that could possibly keep it from either allowing spark, or allowing fuel to run. And back to basics sorry... is there fuel pressure? How does it sound while cranking? Whatever it is, sounds like it didn't go bad quite instantly, it took just a little while. So, I am thinking not the timing chain. With the state it's in, I wonder if checking base timing is possible while just cranking?

Keep us posted,

Steve B.

No spark, no base timing....

Link to comment

Ya i meant the dealer in my area told me it was too old and i didn't buy it from them, i have zero interest in watching someone work on it and giving them s***. At this point i would love to pay someone to fix it. 

Only way ive seen to replace tps sensor on engine was by replacing whole tb as a unit. Im going to take it apart clean and watch it see if it's working. 

I tried jumping pins to rule out ecm issues and it just cranked.  

Someone suggested distributer gear could be worn so I'l look at that too.  

Im not amechanic or much on electronics but it sounds like i might have to get a meter and start checking pins (which none of my local shops will do) 

Maybe i should start a Malibu repair shop if i can figure it out? 🤮

Thank you! 

Link to comment
3 hours ago, Anwhipple said:

Had wife come up and crank boat, still no spark out of coil. Cap rotates smoothly on distributer. 

The terminology you use is frustrating, and you generally don't provide more than sentence fragments.  The cap should not rotate on the distributor at all.  What is it that rotates smoothly?

@csleaver posted the service manual for your ECM.  Please read it, then ask questions.  

Link to comment

The rotor spins on distributer smoothly. My bad. Oblong rotation could indicate gear malfunction on distributor. Like i said not a mechanic but don't really have a choice that's why im asking strangers on the internet for help. 

 Im reading through the manual and going through the diagnostic procedure for engine cranks but doesn't start

Link to comment
On 7/7/2019 at 1:30 PM, Anwhipple said:

Killswitch already bypassed wires have been labeled by previous owner/ mechanic makes me think this had been an issue in the past. Had local mechanic look at it Friday and he thinks it's on the computer side of things. 

You never said if the dash gauges worked or not.  Did you read the "No Start Troubleshooting Guide"?  Either way, I'd go back and make sure the bypassing of the lanyard switch is done correctly.  With key on, the dash gauges should not work if lanyard is pulled, so I'd key up and play with the lanyard wiring and see if you get anything.

Link to comment

You could narrow down the issue to the boat side or engine side of the ignition system by disconnecting the main 16 pin boat to engine harness and hot wire the ignition.  Once the boat harness is disconnected, you can use back probe pins on the alternator harness plug to connect the red and purple wires.  That will turn on the ignition circuit.  To crank the engine starter, use a jumper wire to momentarily connect the large red battery cable to the yellow wire with red stripe on the starter solenoid.  We used to start engines this way during Indmar factory service training with motors out of the boats and on stands with the sea water hose hooked up to a 55 gallon drum of water for testing.

Link to comment
12 hours ago, Anwhipple said:

...asking strangers on the internet...

Yes, we are strangers, but we aren't that strange....

On 7/7/2019 at 1:55 PM, Anwhipple said:

Read there is a red reset button but can't seem to find it.

The red thermal breaker button should be next to the 16 pin Cannon plug that @csleaver referred to above.  Press it very hard to reset it.  If it resets, it will click.  Both should be just above the bell housing on the port side (for a Vee drive). 

If resetting the breaker doesn't work, use the most excellent method that csleaver posted above to isolate the engine from the boat harness.  What he didn't tell you is that if the engine does run that way, remove the jumper from the alternator to kill it.

Also, @formulaben mentioned verifying the kill switch bypass job.  It is very important that you aren't just looking at things and saying that they are good.  You really have to physically verify things to rule them out.  Most of this time, this can be done with a test lamp or a volt meter.

By the way, you don't have to take your boat to that particular dealer.  I realize that it is hard to find service these days with everybody trying to get theirs running, but any Indmar service will do.  Heck, for this problem, any auto mechanic who has been on a boat (and knows to use marine parts) should do.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...