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2006 23 LSV Hard Start Monsoon 340


Lptexastornado1

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Actually according to this table I found on Bakes (a link posted in another thread here took me to Bakes table). It says I should be 58-60psi on key up and running so maybe my problem is key up I’m low? If that’s it would that be regulator or fuel pump?

But I’m not 100% sure I can trust the chart below reason being is I know my engine is TBW and doesn’t have a IAC like the 05 do. So I am a little stumped on what it truly should be. 

AC24DD33-974D-4076-91EA-088A19228E3A.jpeg

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Sorry for leading you astray.  That looks like the correct value to use.

It's surprising that you have low pressure before the engine starts, but that could well be the issue.  It's worth checking all of the electrical connections that are involved, including:

- Disconnect, clean, and very gently spread the connectors in the Cannon plug near the ECM on the engine.  It should be a round rubberized connector with a hose clamp on it.

- Clean the engine grounds at the ends of both engine heads

- Clean the connector at the fuel pump

- Find the fuel pump relay, clean the connector, and maybe consider swapping the relay with one of the other two identical ones.

- Check the connections to the key switch to make sure you have full voltage starting from there.

Also, I think I read that you have a mechanical fuel regulator instead of a vacuum operated one.  If none of the above things helps, maybe consider gently tapping on the regulator body with a screwdriver handle to jar the springs and parts into a slightly different alignment.  If that changes anything, it could be time for a new regulator.

 

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  • 7 months later...

Well I’m back to the drawing board for this issue. Same as last year. To review the posts before to this point I have replaced the Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Cap and Rotar, ignition coil and Ignition Control Module and pulled the ECM and had it re flashed to make sure it was up to date on everything.  I have also pulled the plenum and cleaned the Throttle Body and cleaned the Flame Arestor / air filter. 
 

I have started it a handful of times this winter and it Starts fairly easy when cold. Took it out Saturday after getting the ECM back and same problem drove it for 30 min for a sunset cruise with the family. Shut it down and star gazed for 30 min and then wouldn’t start with just turning the key. Tried advancing the throttle and wouldn’t start. Turned the key to off for 2 min then fired right up when I advanced the throttle on the first try. After the 2 min wait. 
 

dropped the wife and younger kids off close to the house then drove it 20 min to the boat ramp turned it off at the boat ramp for 3 min while I backed the trailer in and then it fired right up on the first key up. 
 

I don’t know if it is needing more fuel to start or getting to much fuel. Heck I’m stumped maybe it’s something not even related to fuel. 
 

things I continue to wonder if they could be the problem

fuel pump (but it runs good and fuel psi is rock solid when running but was only 50psi and dropped to 48 with key on engine off)

Coolant temp sensor (due to it starting always when cold and not always when hot)

crank position sensor (maybe it is going bad and when engine warms affect the sensor)

but the sensors don't answer why advancing the throttle Helps it start?

 

any other ideas ?
 

couple pictures from a fun night out once I tried to stop worrying about this starting problem 🤦‍♂️

6B4A6ACB-D994-489B-B2C9-B8CD59733B72.jpeg

9F4045A9-ADC6-4F84-B4E6-CC47C8EC34BD.jpeg

  • Like 3
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1 hour ago, Lptexastornado1 said:

Shut it down and star gazed for 30 min and then wouldn’t start with just turning the key. Tried advancing the throttle and wouldn’t start. Turned the key to off for 2 min then fired right up when I advanced the throttle on the first try. After the 2 min wait. 

When you say it wouldn't start, did it crank or nothing at all?

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Does anyone know for sure what happens to the system when engine is off and you advance the Throttle?  Is it true that doing that it opens the TB to allow more air flow but does not give the engine more gas? 
 

if that’s the case then I wonder what is controlling the air flow on key up throttle in neutral?
 

Maybe that’s my problem or maybe I’m flooding my engine slightly when I shut the engine off ( maybe the injectors are leaking??)  and it needs more air to over come the extra gas?  
 

the troubling part is it is not consistent.
 

if those thoughts above Don’t make sense feel free to shoot them down.   

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Totally try the third battery right to the starter thing.  LOL you have totally taken a dive down the same hole I did with our 06 vride.  Marital harmony demands that the boat start when your wife turns the key.  Been there.  We were about ready to give the boat away.

  • Like 2
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I haven’t verified but will look at it tonight or in the morning. Hopefully it’s labeled clearly on the wire. 
 

sitting at my boys basketball practice hoping I have 2awg wire and this is the fix!!!

Edited by Lptexastornado1
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Well just looked at the wire and it is 2awg.
 

@shawndoggy Do I  hook up the third battery stacked straight to the starter without our taking the 2awg wire off? Or take the original 2awg wire off and then hook the battery straight to it?

hope this is it. It will be a straight forward fix!

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BOOM!!!!!! This is the Fix!!!!!  I’m so excited!!! I have been chasing this since last memorial day right after I bought the boat!!!

 

@shawndoggy Thank you very much for figuring this out 10 yrs ago =). 
 

did you put 0awg positive and neg wire in or double up on the 2 awg?  
 

also all of my cables everywhere are 2awg. Did you just replace the positive and negative cable from my starter goes to the perko?  I would think I also need to replace the cable from the perko to the battery but not worry about the cable going to dash/ fuses ?

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What I *did* back then was a second parallel run of 2awg from the starter and the block to the observer's compartment.  What I think I *would do* now is to remove the 2awg between the starter/block and the observer's compartment, along with it's 14 year old lugs and possible corrosion, and run brand new 00awg.  It's the more expensive route, but it's (a) cleaner, and (b) less prone to failure in the future (if there's already some resistance on your existing 2awg run, doubling up only "kinda fixes" the problem, plus stacking lugs is introducing another potential point of failure).

Me personally -- I wouldn't worry about rewiring anything on the other side of your battery switch.  It's probably fine.

EDIT -- glad this is the fix... you'll know it's really the fix when you reach for the key and don't say a little hail mary first.

Edited by shawndoggy
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I removed all my 2awg when I upgraded the Alt and now everything is 00.  So happy I did this.  Is the 00 from Alt to my starter overkill, yah maybe but having 00 ran all thru my boat including my parallel wiring of the 5 batteries, well worth it to me.  It wasn't cheap either

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genuinedealz.com is a great resource for wire, and they will also install lugs for you.  I'm kinda 50/50 on whether to have them do the lugs or do it yourself.  If they do it, you better measure right, and you'll probably have wire that's a tad too long (hard to know exactly how the wire is going to radius around corners and such).  Vs if you do your own, you can cut the wire exactly how you want it (not too short, not too long).  I would def get some legit lug crimpers if you go DIY (not that janky slam it with a hammer thing).  There are pretty good chinese hydraulic ones on amazon (probably not a tool for a lifetime, but good enough to lay down some good crimps for a project like this).  I have this style: https://www.amazon.com/WBHome-Hydraulic-Crimper-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B0811VYCQ6/ref=asc_df_B0811VYCQ6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385124930314&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5995553810954264254&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022653&hvtargid=pla-844311887891&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=80210700684&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385124930314&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5995553810954264254&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1022653&hvtargid=pla-844311887891

It has started to leak a little now, but I've probably done 100 crimps with it.  The crimps it produces are top notch.  Also be sure to use tinned lugs.

  • Like 2
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17 hours ago, formulaben said:

@Lptexastornado1, having completely gone through my electrical 2 years ago I can say that this was a wise investment and probably paid for itself when making numerous custom sized cables (due to the cost of extra cable.)

https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

that is exactly what I bought and works great!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a final write up. Purchased 00 awg wire and replaced the 2awg wire. Took the boat out today and it ran and started like a dream. 
 

Extremely happy I found this fix on the forum or else I would have been replacing parts that didn’t need to be replaced!!

 

thanks again @shawndoggy

  • Like 3
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I've been having the exact issue with my 06 23 LSV. It even spent 2 weeks at the dealer doing every test imaginable, they even re flashed my ecm, and the issue still persisted. Been working on getting it ready for this summer. Guess it's time to go buy some new cable too.

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One thing shawndoggy suggested was to check the battery cable to see if it was 2awg (mine was)   If it is then for the quick test hook up a independent battery (I borrowed a friends Battery) right by the starter and see if it corrects it. 

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