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SJRwake

Oil and trans fluid change

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SJRwake

It's time for me to change fluids in my 2001 Sunsetter vlx with the 5.7L Indmar 325HP Monsoon 350ci EFI. My question is how many quart does the engine take? How many quarts of 30weight oil does the vdrive take? What kind of transmission fluid and how many quarts does it take? Also does the transmission fluid and the vdrive oil need to be pumped out or is it drained via a drain plug? Where do you pour in the new trans fluid and oil?

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srab

Search is your friend: 

Transmission and v-drive need to be pumped out.  Measure the exact amount removed from each unit, and replace that exact same amount (I use a long-nosed funnel to pour it right back in through the dipstick channel).

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SJRwake
On 6/14/2019 at 4:21 PM, srab said:

Search is your friend: 

Transmission and v-drive need to be pumped out.  Measure the exact amount removed from each unit, and replace that exact same amount (I use a long-nosed funnel to pour it right back in through the dipstick channel).

Thank you for helping with this. I was able to drain the oil in the vdrive via the small drain plug on the bottom of the drive. The ATF i pumped out. All seems to be running well. I know that the engine itself has no leaks and is not burning oil; however, for over a year now my oil pressure gage on my dash always goes up and down. Is is common for those pressure sensors to go bad?

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ahopkinsVTX
8 hours ago, SJRwake said:

Thank you for helping with this. I was able to drain the oil in the vdrive via the small drain plug on the bottom of the drive. The ATF i pumped out. All seems to be running well. I know that the engine itself has no leaks and is not burning oil; however, for over a year now my oil pressure gage on my dash always goes up and down. Is is common for those pressure sensors to go bad?

Is it going up in down in reference to the throttle? It will rise when you throttle up. 

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SJRwake
9 hours ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

Is it going up in down in reference to the throttle? It will rise when you throttle up. 

No, it just goes up and down at totally random times constantly. I'm pretty sure its just the gauge.

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tvano

i'm not a fan of the connector that indmar uses on the oil pressure sending unit.

that friction fit that slides over the threads gets knocked off too easily when changing the oil filter.

it might be worth a moment to take a look at the wiring at the switches.

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formulaben
20 hours ago, SJRwake said:

No, it just goes up and down at totally random times constantly. I'm pretty sure its just the gauge.

The sending unit it far cheaper than the dash gauge, and this is exactly how mine and others have failed in the past.  Go to your local auto parts store with your old sending unit and it should match a 1999 Chevy Suburban 350. 

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SJRwake
9 hours ago, formulaben said:

The sending unit it far cheaper than the dash gauge, and this is exactly how mine and others have failed in the past.  Go to your local auto parts store with your old sending unit and it should match a 1999 Chevy Suburban 350. 

thanks so much for that, do you know where the sending unit is located on the engine?

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formulaben
Posted (edited)

Right where the oil filter is, forward starboard side at the bottom of the engine.  In this picture, the 6psi switch that triggers the alarm and allows the fuel pump to run is directly above the oil filter (orange.)  The larger barrel shaped unit to the left is the pressure sending unit.  DO NOT use teflon tape when installing. 

48461b99.jpg

Edited by formulaben

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SJRwake

OHHH is that what that is, huh I was wondering what that solenoid was in my way haha, so which part normally goes bad the switch or the pressure unit? Or is it all in one?

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Bozboat

Two parts, cheap enough to justify replacing both while your at it. Be careful removing and installing as they are mounted on a brass post that will bend and break if not supported when removing the switch and sender

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SJRwake
4 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

Two parts, cheap enough to justify replacing both while your at it. Be careful removing and installing as they are mounted on a brass post that will bend and break if not supported when removing the switch and sender

Thank you!

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formulaben

I'm with @Bozboat just spend the money to replace both, as the 6psi switch will prevent you from starting the engine if it fails.  The good news is I will bet you a beer that your fluctuation oil pressure indications go bye bye.

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blk93jeepzj

Just changed my V drive oil the other day.  Anyone have an easy way to refill the Vdrive?  What a pain trying to fill thru the dipstick hole on the top, even with a tiny funnel.  

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wdr
Posted (edited)

I am guessing it is a Walter. If so, pull the inverted bell shaped vent cap on the front (end closest to the gas tank) of the VD. The vent is screwed into a square brass block. It is not much bigger, but definitely a lot easier to fill.

Edited by wdr

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wdr

Or you can use the sump pick up line.

 

Walter.jpg

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wdr

Word of caution the vent is stamped sheet metal and could easily crush when removing it. All of the hose connections are brass. I used a flare nut wrench on them with no problems.

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blk93jeepzj

Great.  Thanks for the response.

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SJRwake
13 hours ago, blk93jeepzj said:

Just changed my V drive oil the other day.  Anyone have an easy way to refill the Vdrive?  What a pain trying to fill thru the dipstick hole on the top, even with a tiny funnel.  

There is a fill port on the top front part of the vdrive that you can unscrew to refill. It is hard to notice that its a port at first glance and it very tight to unscrew but i promise you that it make it was easier using that.

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SJRwake
13 hours ago, wdr said:

Word of caution the vent is stamped sheet metal and could easily crush when removing it. All of the hose connections are brass. I used a flare nut wrench on them with no problems.

i used the vent and though it was very tight and hard to unscrew once i got it off it worked perfectly

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