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DaveMartin

De-Winterization 2005 Wakesetter 23LSV

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DaveMartin

Had my boat winterized by a shop last fall, and now I am trying to de-winterize on my own.  I found a water hose that was disconnected I am reconnecting which was expected.  I also found two items in a bag that had tied to the throttle and I'm not sure where they go.  I've added links to photos below.  Any help?

Thanks,
Dave

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP99dh2mwH28VLUHhw?e=5jrTTO

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP9-GRf2T9pRsmHQ9A?e=nJtUIs

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP98zxKzUX_M1UEXEw?e=yvfTdO

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP96Q-IYy0Zw1pySUA?e=rlamr5

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP97LaRbC1UduWyY3w?e=YfbwdO

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Bozboat
Posted (edited)
39 minutes ago, DaveMartin said:

Had my boat winterized by a shop last fall, and now I am trying to de-winterize on my own.  I found a water hose that was disconnected I am reconnecting which was expected.  I also found two items in a bag that had tied to the throttle and I'm not sure where they go.  I've added links to photos below.  Any help?

Thanks,
Dave

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP99dh2mwH28VLUHhw?e=5jrTTO

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP9-GRf2T9pRsmHQ9A?e=nJtUIs

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP98zxKzUX_M1UEXEw?e=yvfTdO

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP96Q-IYy0Zw1pySUA?e=rlamr5

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphP97LaRbC1UduWyY3w?e=YfbwdO

The first item is the knock sensor.  It goes in the block down low on the side with the starter.  You should see a wire with a black plastic clip that connects to the end of the knock sensor.  

The second item is the brass block drain plug.  It goes in the block on the side opposite the knock sensor.

Might also check to make sure the impeller is in the raw water pump

Edited by Bozboat

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DaveMartin

Thanks.  That was helpful.  I was able to find where they went.  One other question, they don't seem to want to tighten the threads all the way in.  Is that normal for these?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphYAGLcaPUMZQX1PNyg?e=eJNe4f

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphYABKk48WB8wcDE0FA?e=epQOiI

Also, I noticed a couple of other threaded holes towards the rear of the block.  I didn't have anything to go in them from the winterization bag from the shop.  Any thoughts on these?

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphYADy1_u80yj2mD4Pg

Thanks again for your help!

Dave

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MadMan
57 minutes ago, DaveMartin said:

  One other question, they don't seem to want to tighten the threads all the way in.  Is that normal for these?

Yes, this is normal.  They are pipe threads, which increase in diameter the farther you screw them in.  This  is an interference fit and is what makes them seal.

Also, it's bad practice to leave them out over the winter.  This can cause the threads in the block to rust and makes it quite difficult to install.

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Bozboat

I agree with Madman, although dealer likely left them out because it is easy to verify they were pulled if they are hanging in the bag on the wheel.

The knock sensor looks rusted. You could put some anti seize paste on it. Sometimes they get hard to remove when the threads get rusty.   They don’t have to be cranked in very far, just enough to stick and seal the hole.  After you start the boat check for leaks.

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DaveMartin

Thanks guys.

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Bozboat
Posted (edited)

The extra threaded hole is probably not relevant, but you will know for sure as soon as you start it up. 😂 

Edited by Bozboat

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DaveMartin

Thanks for all the assistance everyone.  New question.  I got everything hooked back up and I started looking at test running the motor with a fake a lake.  I thought I knew where the water intake was for the impeller, but now I'm not sure.  I've attached photos with what I believe it to be.  I ran the motor with the fake a lake hooked up for about 20-30 secs but no water ever came out of the exhaust.  Any thoughts?  Does it need to warm up more before the water will start coming out?  It was from a cold start.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphYAetPnN_873szdk-g

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AljX677PxYrphYAdPStg7yZNAjWJdQ

Thanks,
Dave

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smileysteve
15 hours ago, MadMan said:

Also, it's bad practice to leave them out over the winter.  This can cause the threads in the block to rust and makes it quite difficult to install.

 

15 hours ago, Bozboat said:

I agree with Madman, although dealer likely left them out because it is easy to verify they were pulled if they are hanging in the bag on the wheel.

It's also bad practice because it increases the likelihood of losing a plug over the winter or somebody forgetting to put them in; and generally increases the amount of work. The engine won't fill up until it has been run, so I normally drain, let it empty, then immediately put the plug back in.

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Eagleboy99

On winterization my shop pulls the plugs (garboard etc., but not the freeze plugs!) and zip ties them to the steering wheel in a baggie.  Pretty hard to mess up after that.

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smileysteve
46 minutes ago, Eagleboy99 said:

On winterization my shop pulls the plugs (garboard etc., but not the freeze plugs!) and zip ties them to the steering wheel in a baggie.  Pretty hard to mess up after that.

Well, hopefully they drain the block and put the plugs back in, but yes, at least one drain plug should be left out and placed in a conspicous manner in case of rain or roof leaks.

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Eagleboy99

Yeah, we saw what happened to the poor sod in Ontario when the plugs were left in.  :(

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Bozboat
1 hour ago, smileysteve said:

 

It's also bad practice because it increases the likelihood of losing a plug over the winter or somebody forgetting to put them in; and generally increases the amount of work. The engine won't fill up until it has been run, so I normally drain, let it empty, then immediately put the plug back in.

I do my own winterize/summerize.  After draining the block I put the plug and knock sensor back in the block for all the reasons I have learned from this forum.  In the spring I connect the hoses and put in the impeller.   If I was running a boat dealership or repair operation, and had to supervise Jr. Mechanics I would want the parts in the bag on the steering wheel.

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MadMan
3 hours ago, DaveMartin said:

  I ran the motor with the fake a lake hooked up for about 20-30 secs but no water ever came out of the exhaust.  Any thoughts? 

It can take a minute or two because the engine block has to fill water.

Also, when you install the knock sensor, don't use Teflon tape, it needs electrical contact with the block to function.  And torque isn't that critical when installing, these threads are designed to hold something like 1000psi, the pressure generated by the raw water pump is more like 5psi.

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Nitrousbird

Not putting the plugs back in is how they can justify charging people to "summerize" their boat. 

It is foolish to waste money having someone winterize.  It is a simple process.  To summerize, what I do is drive down to the ramp, put the boat in, fire her up and go boating.  Nothing else to do.

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Eagleboy99
15 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

To summerize, what I do is drive down to the ramp

And dump all that antifreeze into the lake.  No thanks.

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Nitrousbird
1 minute ago, Eagleboy99 said:

And dump all that antifreeze into the lake.  No thanks.

What antifreeze?  All of mine stays in the motor; I don't have an antifreeze leak.

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Bozboat
36 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

What antifreeze?  All of mine stays in the motor; I don't have an antifreeze leak.

Yes, your boat has a special engine. 

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Sparky450

I keep trying to figure out what this “winterize” & “summerize” stuff is. 😎 Sorry I had too. Winterizing my boat is throwing a lamp on the shop floor underneath it for maybe two weeks. Just to be safe🤞🤞

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