Rip & replace factory subwoofer + enclosure...

[st22eve]

On 11/10/2019 at 5:12 PM, MLA said:

As long as the material is dense, secured and does not interfere with the woofer, it does not have to be installed symmetrically. The goal is to be as close as possible, to how much your added material reduces the internal volume. 

I like Dave's suggestion of the foam blocks. If you like the direction its going, but them find you added too much and want to back off, its easy to cut some out and increase the volume. 

On my last 2 Axis boats I ran a single pair of Rev10s with a Arc Audio 600.2 and was feeding them around 400watts each, my 17 22MXZ came with 4 rev8s and I've swapped out the syndx2 dsp with a 2.3HP. How much power would you suggest feeding these guys? RMS is 200 and peak is 400 I believe.

[MLA]

12 minutes ago, st22eve said:

On my last 2 Axis boats I ran a single pair of Rev10s with a Arc Audio 600.2 and was feeding them around 400watts each, my 17 22MXZ came with 4 rev8s and I've swapped out the syndx2 dsp with a 2.3HP. How much power would you suggest feeding these guys? RMS is 200 and peak is 400 I believe.

I would not hesitate to feed an 8" HLCD, the amp's 300W rms potential.  

[ChicoSteve]

@IXFE

just wanted to let you know I just finished a box based on your specs and it was balls on accurate! Perfect fit. Thanks again for the post. 

[IXFE]

2 hours ago, ChicoSteve said:

@IXFE

just wanted to let you know I just finished a box based on your specs and it was balls on accurate! Perfect fit. Thanks again for the post. 

Nice Steve!  So glad to hear this. I’m building boxes to put dual subs in my 2020 25 LSV, so I’m back at it again!  I have to admit I kinda enjoy it. 

Glad it worked out for your!

[timmypop]

On 4/5/2020 at 4:23 PM, IXFE said:

Nice Steve!  So glad to hear this. I’m building boxes to put dual subs in my 2020 25 LSV, so I’m back at it again!  I have to admit I kinda enjoy it. 

Glad it worked out for your!

Let me know how it goes building a ported box under the helm. Not much room in there with the heater install. Are you doing the second sub under the observer?

I did a 12w6 under the helm in a ported enclosure and very happy with it. Started with a sealed box for space and was not happy with it. My designer was able to get creative, lose the small storage box in the bow and get a ported box in while still keeping the factory grill. I'm deciding if I want to do a second in the observer. (all done by someone much more experienced than me)

[IXFE]

7 hours ago, timmypop said:

Let me know how it goes building a ported box under the helm. Not much room in there with the heater install. Are you doing the second sub under the observer?

I did a 12w6 under the helm in a ported enclosure and very happy with it. Started with a sealed box for space and was not happy with it. My designer was able to get creative, lose the small storage box in the bow and get a ported box in while still keeping the factory grill. I'm deciding if I want to do a second in the observer. (all done by someone much more experienced than me)

I just finished my 2020 install last week. Two sealed JL 12W6’s. And yes, I do have a heater this year, which made this even more challenging than the 2019 in this thread.  Honestly, I can’t imagine fitting a ported box under the helm in an LSV (whereas the MXZ has a lot more room under there). 

Since there appears to be interest, I’ll start a new thread and do a full write up. 

Edited April 28, 2020 by IXFE

[Dock4]

Has anyone tried this box in a 2018+ 23 LSV?  Wondering if the 23 and 25 have similar under helm.

[IXFE]

8 hours ago, Dock4 said:

Has anyone tried this box in a 2018+ 23 LSV?  Wondering if the 23 and 25 have similar under helm.

Yes, should be the same. What sub are you thinking?

[Dock4]

22 minutes ago, IXFE said:

Yes, should be the same. What sub are you thinking?

12w3 like your build. 

[ChicoSteve]

On 4/28/2020 at 5:47 AM, IXFE said:

I just finished my 2020 install last week. Two sealed JL 12W6’s. And yes, I do have a heater this year, which made this even more challenging than the 2019 in this thread.  Honestly, I can’t imagine fitting a ported box under the helm in an LSV (whereas the MXZ has a lot more room under there). 

Since there appears to be interest, I’ll start a new thread and do a full write up. 

@IXFE  So I never followed up, you might have seen my post in the Malibu facebook group. I originally built two sealed boxes, same exact volume. One under the helm, and one under the observer seat, rear facing. I wasn't as happy with the output I was getting, so I built a 3rd box (2 cu ft ported) for under the observer seat, and that really filled the gap I was looking for. The subs I'm using are two Alpine type X, with each getting about 1000 watts rms. One sealed, one ported (which would normally sound terrible in a car) works just fine in the boat. I do have the heater in my 2020 25 LSV, that sits right above the helm subwoofer box cutout. I'll be investigating how to move that to fit the larger ported box, but I also plan on cutting a bigger opening and having a metal fabricator make a new kick plate there for me. 

I am currently experiencing a voltage problem though... The dash will read 11 volts or lower, yet the "engine diagnostics" screen on the left monitor will show a constant 14 volts + from the engine. It will eventually give me a low voltage alarm before later kicking up to 13 volts or something on the dash display. I'm not sure if it's a voltage regulator, or what the issue is. I have "battery option 3" which is that auto perko switch that auto selects which battery bank to charge. It hasn't kept me off the water, or interrupted my day yet, but the problem seems to be getting worse, and that low voltage alarm is loud and embarrassing. Even though I know I've got 3 good batteries on board and an alternator that appears to be working. 

Anyway, keep us posted on your builds. Thanks!

[shawndoggy]

@ChicoSteve assuming you have a blue sea acr in option 3, if your stereo battery bank hits 10.8v (as measured at the acr) then the acr won’t combine even if voltage out of the alternator is good. Basically it’s an alternator protection function. 
 

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/technical_briefs/Technical_Brief_7610_FAQ_Matrix.pdf

[ChicoSteve]

19 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

@ChicoSteve assuming you have a blue sea acr in option 3, if your stereo battery bank hits 10.8v (as measured at the acr) then the acr won’t combine even if voltage out of the alternator is good. Basically it’s an alternator protection function. 
 

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/technical_briefs/Technical_Brief_7610_FAQ_Matrix.pdf

@shawndoggy Thanks for the quick feedback, I actually wasn't sure who the manufacturer of that switch was, and so I haven't been able to review any of their trouble shooting guides. Any idea why it doesn't charge the engine battery consistently and only occasionally, usually after a low battery alarm? 

 

[shawndoggy]

1 hour ago, ChicoSteve said:

@shawndoggy Thanks for the quick feedback, I actually wasn't sure who the manufacturer of that switch was, and so I haven't been able to review any of their trouble shooting guides. Any idea why it doesn't charge the engine battery consistently and only occasionally, usually after a low battery alarm? 

 

You really need to go through and figure out how the system is wired up. For instance if it’s wired up so your starting battery isn’t the primary, and your starting battery is not in great shape, it could be that after a few starts it’s holding voltage that won’t allow the acr to close, but after a while the voltage on the depleted starting battery drifts back up enough to hit 11v and the acr closes and the starting battery gets a brief alternator charge, till the next time you shut down and restart. 
 

what’s your off-the-water battery maintenance / charging regimen?  Are you sure your batteries start each day on the water in a fully charged condition?

[shawndoggy]

10 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

You really need to go through and figure out how the system is wired up. For instance if it’s wired up so your starting battery isn’t the primary, and your starting battery is not in great shape, it could be that after a few starts it’s holding voltage that won’t allow the acr to close, but after a while the voltage on the depleted starting battery drifts back up enough to hit 11v and the acr closes and the starting battery gets a brief alternator charge, till the next time you shut down and restart. 
 

what’s your off-the-water battery maintenance / charging regimen?  Are you sure your batteries start each day on the water in a fully charged condition?

Sorry.  Just reread what I wrote, and there are some dumb ideas in there.  The alternator and starter are always going to be on the same battery unless (a) Malibu has started wiring boats differently or (b) you've done a lot of custom wiring.

So why won't your starting battery take a charge?  hard to know.  Measure voltage at the battery with a voltage tester at the beginning of the day with the boat off (which will help identify whether the battery is bad), when the boat is running (to confirm whether the battery is in fact receiving a charge), and when you get the low voltage alarm (to see what the actual status of the battery is when the alarm goes off).

[ChicoSteve]

19 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

Sorry.  Just reread what I wrote, and there are some dumb ideas in there.  The alternator and starter are always going to be on the same battery unless (a) Malibu has started wiring boats differently or (b) you've done a lot of custom wiring.

So why won't your starting battery take a charge?  hard to know.  Measure voltage at the battery with a voltage tester at the beginning of the day with the boat off (which will help identify whether the battery is bad), when the boat is running (to confirm whether the battery is in fact receiving a charge), and when you get the low voltage alarm (to see what the actual status of the battery is when the alarm goes off).

@shawndoggy The only thing I've added was a pair of jumpers from the house battery in parallel to a 3rd battery. I run the stereo off that 3rd battery in the observer compartment for easy access. I'll definitely do the mm testing when I get home while running the boat off the hose through the flush kit. There's a built in battery maintainer, and I unplug it right as I leave and I'm on the water 10 minutes later. When the boat starts its typically reading 12v on the dash and just slowly drops from there, but I'll take measurements next time to confirm. 

 

[MLA]

5 hours ago, ChicoSteve said:

Any idea why it doesn't charge the engine battery consistently and only occasionally, usually after a low battery alarm? 

In reality, the ACR has no effect on the charging to the main cranking battery. The main cranking ALWAYS gets a charge from the Alternator. ACR only pass through to the house or isolates the house from the main cranking. 

Edited July 21, 2020 by MLA

[IXFE]

7 hours ago, ChicoSteve said:

Anyway, keep us posted on your builds. Thanks!

Here’s the link to my 2020 build... I’ve been super happy with the dual JL W6’s in sealed boxes. Maybe next year I’ll do a ported as you suggest. I know @G Spot did that this year, but I haven’t heard it yet... he never invites me out. 
 

 

 

[tower210]

On 7/21/2020 at 8:07 PM, IXFE said:

Here’s the link to my 2020 build... I’ve been super happy with the dual JL W6’s in sealed boxes. Maybe next year I’ll do a ported as you suggest. I know @G Spot did that this year, but I haven’t heard it yet... he never invites me out. 
 

 

 

Looks like you built using a standard JL sub and not one of their marine ones.  Any concerns on how long it will last in that application?  My local AD was really grumpy about this....

I feel like the quality at JL is so good; even in a freshwater marine application 5-7 years wouldn't be an issue; and I would have no problem replacing if I got that.  I'm in Kansas; nowhere near salt.  Will only see freshwater lake use.

There definitely are more / cooler choices at if I don't go marine.  Thinking 13 TW 5 (super shallow; great power handing).  Thoughts?

Edited July 25, 2020 by tower210
added

[IXFE]

1 hour ago, tower210 said:

Looks like you built using a standard JL sub and not one of their marine ones.  Any concerns on how long it will last in that application?  My local AD was really grumpy about this....

I feel like the quality at JL is so good; even in a freshwater marine application 5-7 years wouldn't be an issue; and I would have no problem replacing if I got that.  I'm in Kansas; nowhere near salt.  Will only see freshwater lake use.

There definitely are more / cooler choices at if I don't go marine.  Thinking 13 TW 5 (super shallow; great power handing).  Thoughts?

You’re right, I used the JL HD1200/1. The reason for this was simple... I wanted to power BOTH subs off one amp, and unfortunately JL doesn’t make the MHD1200/1. This was actually the recommendation given directly from Oden at Earmark... and I agree with him. The way we use this boat + where the amps are located, it’s not an issue.  If JL ever does offer the MHD1200/1, I’ll be customer #1 cuz $100 is cheap insurance and the MHD amps looks cool. Just look at @Slurpee’s build.  

One more comment on non-marine stuff from JL... MANY guys are running 12W3 and 12W6 subs in these boats with great results.  These are not marine rated either.  

I don’t have any experience with shallow mount subs... why do you need to go shallow?  What’s your application?

[Kojak]

23 minutes ago, IXFE said:

One more comment on non-marine stuff from JL... MANY guys are running 12W3 and 12W6 subs in these boats with great results.  These are not marine rated either.  

 

I'm running a JL 12W3v3 in a sealed Q-Bomb box powered by a JL XD600 amp. Best sub/amp combo I've had. And the least expensive. 

Why my wife continually turns it down is beyond me??? 

[tower210]

27 minutes ago, IXFE said:

You’re right, I used the JL HD1200/1. The reason for this was simple... I wanted to power BOTH subs off one amp, and unfortunately JL doesn’t make the MHD1200/1. This was actually the recommendation given directly from Oden at Earmark... and I agree with him. The way we use this boat + where the amps are located, it’s not an issue.  If JL ever does offer the MHD1200/1, I’ll be customer #1 cuz $100 is cheap insurance and the MHD amps looks cool. Just look at @Slurpee’s build.  

One more comment on non-marine stuff from JL... MANY guys are running 12W3 and 12W6 subs in these boats with great results.  These are not marine rated either.  

I don’t have any experience with shallow mount subs... why do you need to go shallow?  What’s your application?

Not sure that I need shallow yet; need to open the helm and look.  I have a 2020VLX that didn't come with a sub.  I'm assuming the helm may be a bit shallower than the 23 (just assuming everything shrunk a bit).  I'm already adding a SynDX6 to power my new REV10s; I'll have 600 rms on the leftover 5/6 channels.  None of the sealed JL marine subs will take that.  Don't want to go free air.

The 13tw5 just seemed like it might be a perfect fit; great power handling; over-sized woofer; matches the power I have to feed.  I need to look under the helm and see how much space I have.  0.75 cu. ft. @ only 7.75" deep seems like it might not need the notch?

[IXFE]

6 hours ago, tower210 said:

Not sure that I need shallow yet; need to open the helm and look.  I have a 2020VLX that didn't come with a sub.  I'm assuming the helm may be a bit shallower than the 23 (just assuming everything shrunk a bit).  I'm already adding a SynDX6 to power my new REV10s; I'll have 600 rms on the leftover 5/6 channels.  None of the sealed JL marine subs will take that.  Don't want to go free air.

The 13tw5 just seemed like it might be a perfect fit; great power handling; over-sized woofer; matches the power I have to feed.  I need to look under the helm and see how much space I have.  0.75 cu. ft. @ only 7.75" deep seems like it might not need the notch?

Take lots of pics and do a write up. We need a VLX “rip and replace” thread. Also curious how you like the TW. 

[Sparky450]

15 hours ago, Kojak said:

I'm running a JL 12W3v3 in a sealed Q-Bomb box powered by a JL XD600 amp. Best sub/amp combo I've had. And the least expensive. 

Why my wife continually turns it down is beyond me??? 

You need a new wife😂😂

[Sparky450]

15 hours ago, tower210 said:

Not sure that I need shallow yet; need to open the helm and look.  I have a 2020VLX that didn't come with a sub.  I'm assuming the helm may be a bit shallower than the 23 (just assuming everything shrunk a bit).  I'm already adding a SynDX6 to power my new REV10s; I'll have 600 rms on the leftover 5/6 channels.  None of the sealed JL marine subs will take that.  Don't want to go free air.

The 13tw5 just seemed like it might be a perfect fit; great power handling; over-sized woofer; matches the power I have to feed.  I need to look under the helm and see how much space I have.  0.75 cu. ft. @ only 7.75" deep seems like it might not need the notch?

I had a shallow Jl sub in my 07 21 LSV. I think it was a TW. But it was definetly a 12” I HATED IT.  You should have plenty of room for a 12” JL sub. In a sealed box. I actually replaced that with two 10” in a sealed box. 

[tower210]

6 hours ago, Sparky450 said:

I had a shallow Jl sub in my 07 21 LSV. I think it was a TW. But it was definetly a 12” I HATED IT.  You should have plenty of room for a 12” JL sub. In a sealed box. I actually replaced that with two 10” in a sealed box. 

Ouch!  

Just poor sounding?