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spinxt

Alternator popping sound though speakers

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spinxt

I just reworked the sound system in my new (to me) LXi.   It’s a pretty simple system:

*Exile Bluetooth receiver 

*Exile Zone Controller/equalizer 

*Two alpine 4 channel amps (one bridged driving tower speakers, the other driving the four 6” cabin speakers)

*Self amplified base tube 

I’m getting some tapping while the engine is running, primarily though the front two cabin speakers.  I do not notice it as much though the rear speakers and none through the tower.   It only happens while the engine is running...perfectly normal without engine running. 

The amps are powered/grounded directly to one of the batteries.  The head unit and zone controller are powered off a dash rocker switch and grounded to the boats ground bar under the driver arm rest. 

Any thoughts of where to start???

 

 

 

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David

Alternator noise is more of a constant whine that increases or decreases in pitch as you increase/decrease the engine rpm. The whine doesn't increase in intensity as you increase the volume level which makes it most noticeable at modest volume levels. A popping or ticking, if that's an accurate description, is likely caused by different boat electronics. Rarely either noise is induced into connecting signal cables. If so, you can re-route the RCA cable path. Typically this is a problem resulting from a ground/supply loop. How to fix (at least your starting approach): All grounds of all audio equipment in the signal path must access the exact same physical connecting point. No exceptions no matter how insignificant you may think they are. Then, the exact same rule would apply to the positive side.    

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hawaiianstyln
22 hours ago, spinxt said:

The amps are powered/grounded directly to one of the batteries.  The head unit and zone controller are powered off a dash rocker switch and grounded to the boats ground bar under the driver arm rest. 

Any thoughts of where to start???

 

 

 

I see a problem here; you have a potential ground loop being caused because as David said above, basically all components in the system (head unit/Amps/Zone Controller, etc..) all need to be grounded at the same location.  Get the head unit and Zone line driver ground to the same NEG post as the amps.

Do you have any other speakers on the same amp as the front two?  Is the popping consistent like a heartbeat?  Does the popping  noise always happen whether you are using BT/Radio of the deck/connected to an ipod or phone via microphone jack?

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MLA
On 5/12/2019 at 3:48 PM, David said:

Then, the exact same rule would apply to the positive side.  

Just gonna leave this here. 

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spinxt
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

I see a problem here; you have a potential ground loop being caused because as David said above, basically all components in the system (head unit/Amps/Zone Controller, etc..) all need to be grounded at the same location.  Get the head unit and Zone line driver ground to the same NEG post as the amps.

Do you have any other speakers on the same amp as the front two?  Is the popping consistent like a heartbeat?  Does the popping  noise always happen whether you are using BT/Radio of the deck/connected to an ipod or phone via microphone jack?

Yes it’s consistent like a tap, tap, tap...actually gets drowned out at louder volumes. I only have BT via iPhone 

Edited by spinxt

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hawaiianstyln
15 hours ago, spinxt said:

Yes it’s consistent like a tap, tap, tap...actually gets drowned out at louder volumes. I only have BT via iPhone 

the only reason I asked some of those questions is that I had installed my exile BT module Winter before last and I was trying to sneak away with just tapping into a local ground and power source.  When I did that I had some pulsing or popping ground noise.  I re-ran my power and grounds to the proper source (same ground and power with all of my other components) and it went away.

 

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spinxt
22 hours ago, hawaiianstyln said:

the only reason I asked some of those questions is that I had installed my exile BT module Winter before last and I was trying to sneak away with just tapping into a local ground and power source.  When I did that I had some pulsing or popping ground noise.  I re-ran my power and grounds to the proper source (same ground and power with all of my other components) and it went away.

 

I'll give it a try.  The only reason I tapped into a local source under the dash is because I wanted to simply flip one of the dash rocker switches to turn it on.  I guess I can still do that, I'd just have to disconnect the current wires coming from the fuse panel and run power and ground right from my power/ground block.

 

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MLA

The only audio circuit a helm rocker should activate, is a turn-on or IGN. 

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granddaddy55
20 hours ago, spinxt said:

I'll give it a try.  The only reason I tapped into a local source under the dash is because I wanted to simply flip one of the dash rocker switches to turn it on.  I guess I can still do that, I'd just have to disconnect the current wires coming from the fuse panel and run power and ground right from my power/ground block.

 

You rewire the rocker switch power and ground source off dash 

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David
On ‎5‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 11:23 AM, spinxt said:

I'll give it a try.  The only reason I tapped into a local source under the dash is because I wanted to simply flip one of the dash rocker switches to turn it on.  I guess I can still do that, I'd just have to disconnect the current wires coming from the fuse panel and run power and ground right from my power/ground block.

 

You can always maintain the factory switch function by introducing a horn relay after the switch. The existing switch & supply triggers the relay, and the relay simply passes the voltage from a new supply, one that's common to all other audio components. Still have to run a new B+ and ground, but saves having to rewire the switch.  

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spinxt

Rewiring the switch was the easy.  Now all power and grounds come the same respective distribution blocks.  Now I just have to wait for an opportunity go get out on the water and see if it worked!

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