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jtrezon

Which battery to connect "house" loads with ACR

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jtrezon

search brought me to this diagram for wiring ACR and on-board charger.   Question is should the house loads be connected to the starter battery, or the stereo (deep cycle) battery?    Maybe I am missing something, but I would think the "house" loads would be better served on the deep cycle battery.    Thanks, 

 

 

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shawndoggy

What are you defining as “house”?  Typically people wire up as “stereo” and “everything else.” But if there was something other than the stereo that you intended to run with key off (big reversible ballast system?) then it might make sense to have those things on the “stereo” battery too. 

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MLA

IMO, if it does not make the boat go, its a house load. 

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formulaben

My methodology was slightly different, I wanted my starter battery isolated completely, so both "house" and stereo loads (everything but engine starter) went onto the large battery bank, and the started onto a smaller starting battery.

6r0dq8.jpg

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MadMan
Posted (edited)

The things I connect to the house battery are the things I would turn on without the engine running.  It's a short list- stereo/amps and ballast pumps.

Also, I stopped buying deep cycle batteries a long time ago, they seem to have a much reduced warranty.

Edited by MadMan

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shawndoggy
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, formulaben said:

My methodology was slightly different, I wanted my starter battery isolated completely, so both "house" and stereo loads (everything but engine starter) went onto the large battery bank, and the started onto a smaller starting battery.

6r0dq8.jpg

will your boat actually start if your stereo/house battery is disconnected?  Seems to me that what people mean by "house" loads is "that wire that goes under the dash."  I'm sure it would be possible to isolate the breakers that cause the boat to run (powering up guages, ecm, ignition, blower, bilge pump(s) etc.) from the "other stuff" under the dash (ballast, heater. running lights), with independent, isolated power runs, but that seems like a lot of work and also seems like you could be causing more headaches than you are solving (i.e. rewiring the boat in a manner that most aren't, so making issues hard for the next owner's mechanic to diagnose).

ICBW tho?

Edited by shawndoggy

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formulaben

That's a very good point, Shawn...I guess I'm just lucky to have a 2002 model.  This recent post highlighted a somewhat major difference in the wiring which was just dumb luck for me.  Wiring my switch/ACR that way was a no-brainer since it was pretty much turn-key for the way I originally wanted it, but even if it hadn't been that way, it would just be a matter of running a 4 or 6 gauge wire from the house battery (with requisite master circuit breaker) to the breaker panel.  Not a major deal, IMHO. 

And to your point about causing issues for the next owner, I totally get that and no way do I let them drive away without the wiring diagram firmly in hand (with a ton of other stuff) and a lengthy conversation about the upgrades, etc.  They will probably be far more educated about the system than if they'd bought a stock boat, but that's just me.  I can see where it could cause troubles for others when the seller doesn't clue them in.

367100528_SC2019-04-28at3_58_19PM.thumb.

 

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jtrezon

Not planning on “disconnecting” either battery....so I think I will go with formulaben’s sketch.   I have to key up (or 4-button code) to turn on the black box and WS420BT so probably safer to ensure I never run down the starting battery by someone accidentally hitting the tower or docking lights, etc.   I still have the combine switch for emergencies.  

Appreciate the comments.  

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