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80AM

Distribution Block question

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80AM

So I have a 2016 Axis with the Kicker head unit running the output to a WS420 then to my 3 amps (tower, boat, sub) my question is on the proper way to wire this for simplicity and to avoid noise.

I know running my 3 amps with 4awg wire to a distribution block that has a single 0awg run back to the battery and fuse that connection with the total sum of the fuse rating for the 3 amps combined is the way to go, but someone correct me if I'm wrong.

My question is the wiring for the Kicker HU and WS420. Right now I have the Remote 12+v  turn on output from the Kicker HU running to my main in-boat amp, and then remote turn on for the other 2 amps running off that same connection at the amp. So basically once 12v+ goes to the in-boat amp, the other 2 amps receive that same 12v+ signal right at the same time and then they power on. 1) Is that safe? 2) Is there a better way to do that? 3) If so, what product?

Next, my WS420 gets it's power from the in-boat amp's 12v+ power terminal, and it's ground to a separate terminal under the dash  use for other switches which runs to the battery. I realize this is not optimal at all.

In theory, all the audio equipment should be ground to the same place and currently with the exception of the Kicker HU and the WS420, it is. I have some hum from a ground problem (I assume) only when the motor is cranked. I would like to take the ground for the Kicker HU and the WS420 and send them all to the same source, but all the distribution blocks I'm seeing are for amps and take 4-8awg wire, not little 18awg wire for these remote turn on's and grounds. What should I use (link to some type of product please) to wire these to a common source? Should I run that directly back to the battery or should I tap that into the amp's distribution block?

 

Amps:
WetSounds SDX2 (tower)
JL HD750/1 (sub)
JL M600/6 (in-boat)

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MLA
1 hour ago, 80AM said:

Next, my WS420 gets it's power from the in-boat amp's 12v+ power terminal, and it's ground to a separate terminal under the dash

You will likely have noise. 

If the boat has a main battery switch, id suggest connecting the main audio supply B+ to the switch's output, rather then battery direct.  

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shawndoggy
1 hour ago, 80AM said:

Next, my WS420 gets it's power from the in-boat amp's 12v+ power terminal, and it's ground to a separate terminal under the dash  use for other switches which runs to the battery. I realize this is not optimal at all.

Have you isolated the noise to see where it's coming from?  If you unplug the rcas from the amp does it go away?  If you power down the ws420 does it go away?  Seems like you need to do some troubleshooting to isolate your exact issue.

It's OK to daisy chain the remote turn on leads.

That said, for power ground and remote turn on for the WS420, take all three from one of your amps (i.e. "stick the wire in there" with your 4awg power / ground, and with the 18awg remote lead on the amp).  Personally, I'd take them from your "noisy" amp, just to put those two components (eq and amp) on as close to common ground as possible.  You don't really need a distro block for this purpose.  Obviously make sure the EQ is fused.

Also agree with MLA that the "main" power for your amps' distro blocks should come from the battery switch, not battery directly.  I don't think that it will cause noise wired battery direct (at least that was never my experience when I had my system wired that way), but it does mean you can't cut your stereo off from battery power, which could result in parasitic drains.

 

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80AM
53 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

Have you isolated the noise to see where it's coming from?  If you unplug the rcas from the amp does it go away?  If you power down the ws420 does it go away?  Seems like you need to do some troubleshooting to isolate your exact issue.

It's OK to daisy chain the remote turn on leads.

That said, for power ground and remote turn on for the WS420, take all three from one of your amps (i.e. "stick the wire in there" with your 4awg power / ground, and with the 18awg remote lead on the amp).  Personally, I'd take them from your "noisy" amp, just to put those two components (eq and amp) on as close to common ground as possible.  You don't really need a distro block for this purpose.  Obviously make sure the EQ is fused.

Also agree with MLA that the "main" power for your amps' distro blocks should come from the battery switch, not battery directly.  I don't think that it will cause noise wired battery direct (at least that was never my experience when I had my system wired that way), but it does mean you can't cut your stereo off from battery power, which could result in parasitic drains.

 

 

So I've got a Blue Sea dual battery switch that came installed from Malibu, how do you connect the amp power/ground wire to that switch? I don't think it has any terminals on it to throw a ring connector on. Are they on the back? Do I have to take it off the wall to install those? I assume you install a fuse for the distribution block between it and the battery switch?

All the amps have remote turn on and stay powered off when the HU is powered off. I've had 2 of the amps wired this way for 3 years and haven't had any parasitic drain that I've noticed and I've left them wired up all winter that way. Would they still draw power from the battery if they were turned off?

I know the HU is somehow powered off the battery switch because it's definitely not connected through the battery, but the switch is connected back to the batteries obviously so do they still not share a common ground even if I put the battery switch to the same battery as the amps? I'm not sure which my "noisy" amp is, they're all wired to the same battery. Are you saying "noisy" based on specs?

 

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shawndoggy

@IXFE do you have some pics to share of wiring to the back of the switch for 80AM?

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IXFE

@80AM

I always wire my power trunk (ie the 0/1 awg that feeds the distribution block) to the back of the batter switch. The common post is what I use (9 o’clock position when you take off the back of the switch). 

I learned this technique from @shawndoggy himself.  When I built my first stereo I went straight to the battery but as he stated above, you can never really shut off the system if you do it that way.

Dont forget to put a big a** fuse along that 0/1 power line (ie between batter switch and distribution block). Surprisingly, Malibu doesn’t do this on the factory system.

See pics below... my new cable is obviously the blue one. First two pics are what it looks like without the cover on. Last pic is with the cover back on. Taking the cover off is easy enough.  When you go to put it back on, you’ll wish you had three hands. :lol:

FC198E4B-FC76-4613-B9DA-7256A87BF20B.jpeg

D6FD6F69-F7FD-4252-8568-365753EA0301.jpeg

39EFCBC1-1372-446E-A25A-F2D03D8F7D66.jpeg

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shawndoggy

@80AM in your axis, the switch is obviously mounted "backwards" from @IXFE's pics (i.e. lag screwed into the interior wall), but you get the idea of how to connect it to the common post on the back of the switch.

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IXFE

As for the ground line (ie the 0/1 awg ground that feeds the ground distribution block), I still just go to the negative post on the battery. 

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IXFE

Here’s an example of something else you asked...

These are really old pics, but note the 18ga power and ground wires going into the distribution  blocks. If I recall, those 18ga wires went all the way back to the helm for my EQ. 

72217DD5-17EB-4972-9957-F14528F053F0.jpeg

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MLA
1 hour ago, 80AM said:

So I've got a Blue Sea dual battery switch that came installed from Malibu, how do you connect the amp power/ground wire to that switch?

No grounds, just audio B+. 

2 hours ago, 80AM said:

I don't think it has any terminals on it to throw a ring connector on. Are they on the back?

It has 3 or 4, depending on the model. 

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Sparky450
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

Also agree with MLA that the "main" power for your amps' distro blocks should come from the battery switch, not battery directly. 

I just looked up the Blue Seas ACR. Do they have one rated higher than 120 amps  Simple ohms law going on here?

1440/12=120 amps. So that said. If you have more than 1440 watts in your system, you are overloading the Blue Sea. If you beat on,  it is not a matter of if. It is a matter of when. 

Even the 1-2-both-off are only 200 continuous. But at least they are 1000 momentary  

I also have not experienced parasitic drains. 

Edited by Sparky450

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Sparky450
Posted (edited)

Actually stock Malibu is rated at 300 continuous 450 for 5 min. 

300*12=3600. 

450*12=5400 for 5 min

That would hold up. I have been told the ACR attracts crickets 🦗😎

CE21B292-7E9E-46A4-9890-A4CF1880AAE4.thumb.jpeg.2ccd9253789fb2792cba8ba66d8c3efe.jpeg

Edited by Sparky450

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MLA
10 minutes ago, Sparky450 said:

440/12=120 amps. So that said. If you have more than 1440 watts in your system, you are overloading the Blue Sea.

Only thing passing through the ACR is some  alternator charge. Not many out there rated more then 90A

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MLA
2 minutes ago, Sparky450 said:

Actually stock Malibu is rated at 300 continuous 450 for 5 min. 

Thats a switch, not an ACR

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Sparky450

Not ACR but Malibu battery option 3 that supposedly alternates. 

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