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Subfloor Wire Routing


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I have a 2006 Vride and bought a reversible pump and wiring kit from WakeMakers. As a reversible pump has some amp requirements,  Here are my options.

  1. Install attached to the stock circuit breaker, I could put a 30 amp pop breaker in the normal rear mls position, dash in switch
  2. Route around the bow, this is a long round run and requires drilling a small hole in the helm kick board.
  3. My preferred route, use the stock subfloor wiring from the battery to the helm. 

On #3, This provides a solution to allow for a separate battery for the pump(s). I have the midship mls, so it's not very accessible. I've stuck a snake down, but it got lost in the hull, there is clearly not conduit connecting the 2 sides. I'm guessing that this is either open space, or 2 openings in the stringers (like done in the rear or the plumbing for the mls. So, I'm looking for tips.  If I use a boroscope, will I be able to direct a snake easily? How readily can I expand the holes at the helm and under the observer's seat?

Or should I give up and go with #1 or #2?

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you are looking for a route to pull the wire or to route the hose?  Under the walkway floor should have plenty of room for 10-12 awg +/-.  A boroscope sounds super fancy.  I usually use an unfolded coat hanger for that sort of project.  The assistance of an unwilling kid or spouse who'd rather be anywhere than waiting for your coat hanger to pop through the hole is an added bonus.

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The Fibecs will be the stringers and they are open from basically the front of the drivers footwell and inside the observer side storage compartment all of the way to the transom on both sides. You should have an opening behind the battery(s) and behind the sub under the drivers helm if so equipped to access both. On the passenger side there was an additional fiberglass tube running full length inside of the Fibecs that the battery cables ran through on my '10. You probably don't want to fight getting any wires through that tube. The drivers side was where all of my MLS wires and hoses for the bow and center tanks were run so it was kind of crowded on that side. Otherwise it was a straight shot front to rear for both. I have an electricians tape, but that was a lesson in futility trying to get it run through, too many obstructions. I ultimately used @ a #2 pencil dia piece of aluminum grounding wire that I had to run a piece of pull cord front to rear and then attach it to the wire and pull it through.

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Thanks for thre responses everybody. I do have the glue in carpet. Sounds like I was making it more complicated than it is and just need something to go straight across.

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I did have the steel cross over "U" beam that supported the walk through in my '10 I could run a wire side to side if I had to. If you can access that make sure to shield what ever you put in there. It was a pretty jagged unfinished piece of steel in those openings.

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