Jump to content

 

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Sign in to follow this  
thebill

steering cable model and size for 04 VLX

Recommended Posts

thebill
Posted (edited)

is this the Teleflex

Teleflex TFXtreme Rack & Pinion Steering Cable 19'? i see that on Bakes for $175....

 

I see some less expensive other places but this is the entire system not just the cable, also Seastar has some cheaper..advise?

 

i heard its tough job but DIY possible ? can these be greased or loosened? mines very tight and im sure it needs replacing..

 

 

 

 

Edited by thebill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
minnmarker
Posted (edited)

Don't try to grease it.  Temp fix at best.

Get the cable and casing for sure.  I did it on my 2005 LSV.  Pretty much the same.  Make sure you pull it front to back with the stern end of the new cable taped (well with duct tape and make sure you have the front and rear end of the splice "smoothed out") to the the bow end of the old cable.  If you have a sub or heater get it out of the way.  You have to cut (with hack saw or cable cutter) the rack of the old cable off to make the corners.  A bit tricky to detach/attach the end to the tiller arm but it only took me about 1 hour start to finish.  Suggest you pull a line in addition to the new cable just in case (you will) you want to run some wires from engine compartment to helm sometime in the future.  One finger steering ever since :)

Edited by minnmarker
addition

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill

how about the [roper size and brand for my 04 VLX im assuming its the 19' but is Seastar as good or should i stick with Teleflex?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
minnmarker

I just told Bakes my model and year and they sent me one that fit.  I think it was a Teleflex.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
formulaben

Very doable so long as you or someone can get to the rudder to loosen/tighten the bolt which requires 2 hands in a somewhat difficult location, bu the actual removal and install of the cable went super fast for me.  Good tutorial about it here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/i2nbvy55spvz1wo/Rudder Cable Replacement.docx?dl=0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill
22 hours ago, oldjeep said:

Bakes has a chart showing steering cable lengths

https://www.bakesonline.com/images/MediaLibrary/MalibuBoatsfitchart.pdf

 

I saw that and my boat is an 04 VLX it has a 21VLX listed but has 00- in the chart i was wondering if that was too vague as boats change alot and they just state 2000- with no end..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
oldjeep
4 minutes ago, thebill said:

I saw that and my boat is an 04 VLX it has a 21VLX listed but has 00- in the chart i was wondering if that was too vague as boats change alot and they just state 2000- with no end..

Boat steering gear hasn't changed much over the last 20 years, and a VLX is still 21 feet long ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill

I finished this project took 2 hrs had to remove sub and other things under dash and the space near the engine to get tools in and work 1/8 of turn at time was tough but the pulling went smooth..

 

but another question or two 

 

while doing this i noticed that black sleeve at the back that the rudder tip slips through and screw the big nut onto, it has play in it , is this supposed to be a little free for movement or super tight? has the one 9/16 bolt on top of it??

also do you grease that rudder strut ever? if so can you use the same grease and gun i use for bearing buddies? i was told be careful and not sure what that means?

 

to get it dialed in straight i was told drive it until it seems it goes in staring line at 25 MPH and mark it on dash and take 4 bolts out under assembly and move wheel centered to that mark?

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
formulaben
6 minutes ago, thebill said:

while doing this i noticed that black sleeve at the back that the rudder tip slips through and screw the big nut onto, it has play in it , is this supposed to be a little free for movement or super tight? has the one 9/16 bolt on top of it??

Not sure exactly what you're talking about here, but if you're saying the tiller/rudder shaft has free play in it, then those bushing(s) as mentioned below could be shot.

7 minutes ago, thebill said:

also do you grease that rudder strut ever? if so can you use the same grease and gun i use for bearing buddies? i was told be careful and not sure what that means?

There are O rings (and bushings) in the rudder assembly and using too much grease can blow them out.  Go slow and a little goes a long way.

7 minutes ago, thebill said:

to get it dialed in straight i was told drive it until it seems it goes in staring line at 25 MPH and mark it on dash and take 4 bolts out under assembly and move wheel centered to that mark?

Mark goes on the steering wheel; mark it at 12 o'clock when up to speed and going straight.  When you stop the boat, move the mark to the 12 o'clock position (maybe have someone hold it there.)  Loosen/remove the 4 bolts so that the rack is no longer engaged onto the steering wheel gear pinion, and then move the steering wheel to your desired orientation.  Tighten rack back to steering assembly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill
3 hours ago, formulaben said:

Not sure exactly what you're talking about here, but if you're saying the tiller/rudder shaft has free play in it, then those bushing(s) as mentioned below could be shot.

No the end of rudder pushes through the black pipe assembly where the big nut on new cable screws onto it..it had two other nuts on each side and that is held on by a black box with 9/16 bolt on it..you know when pushing the new cable to the rudder it goes through a pipe with threads on it..it has play in it..

3 hours ago, formulaben said:

There are O rings (and bushings) in the rudder assembly and using too much grease can blow them out.  Go slow and a little goes a long way.

 

Mark goes on the steering wheel; mark it at 12 o'clock when up to speed and going straight.  When you stop the boat, move the mark to the 12 o'clock position (maybe have someone hold it there.)  Loosen/remove the 4 bolts so that the rack is no longer engaged onto the steering wheel gear pinion, and then move the steering wheel to your desired orientation.  Tighten rack back to steering assembly.

so the grease i use for my Bearing Buddies will work just a small squirt should do?

 

On the steering somehow im not picturing what you are saying that if im driving i can make the steering wheel stay at 12 all the time but wont be going straight if its not in line with the rudder. for now i put the rudder at what looks like dead center and loosened the nuts and moved the steering wheel to center and bolted back while on the trailer..looks close..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
formulaben
8 minutes ago, thebill said:

No the end of rudder pushes through the black pipe assembly where the big nut on new cable screws onto it..it had two other nuts on each side and that is held on by a black box with 9/16 bolt on it..you know when pushing the new cable to the rudder it goes through a pipe with threads on it..it has play in it..

Ah, yeah if it's what I think it is it's supposed to be tight.  I didn't touch it on my cable swap.

8 minutes ago, thebill said:

so the grease i use for my Bearing Buddies will work just a small squirt should do?

Yep.

11 minutes ago, thebill said:

On the steering somehow im not picturing what you are saying that if im driving i can make the steering wheel stay at 12 all the time but wont be going straight if its not in line with the rudder. for now i put the rudder at what looks like dead center and loosened the nuts and moved the steering wheel to center and bolted back while on the trailer..looks close..

Wherever the wheel is (let's say it's pointed at 10 o'clock when going straight) then you note that, then when you stop the boat you put it at the 10 o'clock position so that the rudder is now straight, THEN you remove the bolts so as to disengage the rack & pinion gears, then move the steering wheel to the 12 o'clock position, then tighten the bolts back...now 12 o'clock is straight when driving.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill
11 hours ago, formulaben said:

Ah, yeah if it's what I think it is it's supposed to be tight.  I didn't touch it on my cable swap.

Yep.

Wherever the wheel is (let's say it's pointed at 10 o'clock when going straight) then you note that, then when you stop the boat you put it at the 10 o'clock position so that the rudder is now straight, THEN you remove the bolts so as to disengage the rack & pinion gears, then move the steering wheel to the 12 o'clock position, then tighten the bolts back...now 12 o'clock is straight when driving.

 

thanks for the help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill

the part im referring to is this,

 

Product Description:

Malibu Boats steering pivot connection assembly where the steering cable pivots in the stern of the boat.

Product Specs:

Sometimes the cause of stiff steering if the pivot becomes corroded

Painted machiened aluminum

11 inches long

Brass pivot joint

Unique assembly manufactured by Malibu

NOTE: This is a built to order item from Malibu. Depending on availability the part may take up to 21 business days to complete.

 

the cable slips through it right before the rudder attachment im wondering how much play its supposed to have or none.. calling it a Pivot joint maybe it should be more free and my tight steering might have been this? ill email Malibu and see what they say about the function of this..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thebill

OK after installing an finally lake testing I feel like it can drive straight ,

 

It docked and trailered fine BUT it seems to have a lot of PLAY in it.. now I going through instructions to make sure it is iun fact straight and the last part says " remove the steering box on backside of steering wheel" to adjust..

 

is this the part thats attached to cable with gears in it that 4 bolts hold it uder dash or is it something else..

 

If im reading this correctly I hold the steering wheel in what feels like its straight remove those bolt let box drop put steering wheel straight up and down and put box back in place?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...