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2019 Wobbly Seat?


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Just got my 1st day on the water in the new 22 LSV. I upgraded from a 2015 22 VLX and I am fairly pleased so far. Maybe a longer post on that in the future. 

That said the seat is not very solid at all. Not sure how else to describe it other than it is wobbly as hell when it is locked forward. Id this a me thing or, an all of them thing. EIther way, it is unacceptable on a $100k+ boat.

*I have the seat hydraulic riser, kinda weird option, but my short friends kinda like it. 

 

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I wouldn’t bother the dealer with something simple like that. It is mostly likely as you suggest just loose bolts. I will have a look at mine  before I take it down for it’s first service. If it isn’t something that can be fixed by me and has to be replaced I will let the dealer handle that before I pick it up. Mine would be the 3rd ‘19 that I have sat in that had the wobble. The other 2 were on the floor on display so they hadn’t gotten any personal attention yet for the issue to be diagnosed and fixed. I will most likely have a look at mine tomorrow afternoon now that I have opined on it. Will post up what I find.

Edited by wdr
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It has to be something loose. Mine doesn't wobble at all.  

I did however manage to bend my prop on a log with just 8 hours on the boat. Grrrrrr!

Edited by Peebalz
  • Sad 2
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I think it is fit and finish. I just bought a 2019 25 lsv and I noticed that my drivers seat wobbles too and not just a little, but a lot. It is not from bolts being loose, but I think it is just the way it is made. I made the comment to my son, that I have been aware of these kind of things, but I still love Malibu. Also, the rear view seating wobbles like crazy too, so I checked other 25lsv's and the seats wobbled too. The seat seems to lack a locking mechanism on the right side.   

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ahopkinsVTX
17 minutes ago, wdr said:

I do, there might be different bases for electric versus non electric riser.

I’m wondering if the wobble is actually the cylinder that goes up and down, not how the seat is mounted. 

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Depending on how that cylinder is designed and how it operates you could imagine that it’d prone to have a little play. Especially as the seat gets raised more to a higher position. That would drive me absolutely crazy though. Curious to hear what you guys come up with.  

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Looking at it, it appears most of the looseness is in the rotational locking mechanism. There may be a bit of play in the hydraulic but not enough to worry about. I'll grab a refreshment after work and take a closer look. 

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10 hours ago, geogilbert said:

Looking at it, it appears most of the looseness is in the rotational locking mechanism. There may be a bit of play in the hydraulic but not enough to worry about. I'll grab a refreshment after work and take a closer look. 

Yep, nailed it. This is basically the same set up as my 2010 which I adjusted also. The two square seat rotational plates are secured together with the 4 each 1/2” bolts that have 7/32 flat hex heads recesssed into a round base plate that sits in the under side of the bottom base piece. There is a HPDE plate with red grease slathered over everything.... to ease rotation. The 4 bolts on this one are barely tight at all so you can see the movement plainly when you push. The only way to get the them tightened should be to remove the 6 recessed headed bolts holding the the lower plate to the moving vertical shaft seat base exposing the the Allen heads on the bottom of the lower rotational piece (lower picture). As is assembled there is no way to access them with out doing that. The fun part was trying to get the seat spun enough to expose the recessed heads and then get a socket on it on my ‘10.

 

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Edited by wdr
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7/32 Allen wrench, 1/4” drive ratchet with a 1/2 socket and a 9/16 ratcheting box and open end wrench will get it adjusted in @ 30 minutes depending on how much grease you have to clean off. I tightened the nuts until they just stopped with no extra force. It took out all of the plate slop leaving only the little seat slider play. Happy with the results.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been a bit and with the warm weather figured I would bump this and see if it is systemic as it appears. 

Let me know if anyone else is having issues. I have a call into Malibu and we are trading emails. 

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  • 1 month later...

They put the cheapest motors in there risers! Firgelli.... The swivel is designed around a patten I think they are trying to avoid it not good either. 

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  • 1 year later...
13 minutes ago, dalt1 said:

My welds are broken under the plate bolted to the fiberglass base. Have to unbolt and tilt it up to see it. Mine will be fixed as warrantied this off season.image.thumb.png.ecbbea29d8e9eb620275cada6de4f798.png

I am heading down with mine next Friday for some warranty work. I will PM my experience with the new guy. 

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  • 1 month later...

Rebuilt mine this weekend. Same issue with the  1/2” bolts & nylock nuts coming loose. I replaced the original nuts with taller stainless ones which engage more of the threads and used loctite. Also discovered the carriage bolts on the slide rails were stripped. Replaced those with new stainless bolts & nuts and cleaned / re-greased the shims and rotating assembly. No play now and butter smooth. 

Not super impressed with the seat base setup. I have the auto height adjust option and just seams like there’s a ton of weight concentrated on a small area. Not surprised to see the broken welds posted here.  

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“Not super impressed with the seat base setup”.

I am not super impressed that they used lag bolts, something I would use on a chicken coup, to secure the whole assembly to the deck. I have since replaced with 8 ea, SS, 1/4 x 20 allen pan head bolts, washers and nylocs. I also chamfered the holes to keep the spider cracking that was starting to occur at bay.

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6 hours ago, wdr said:

“Not super impressed with the seat base setup”.

I am not super impressed that they used lag bolts, something I would use on a chicken coup, to secure the whole assembly to the deck. I have since replaced with 8 ea, SS, 1/4 x 20 allen pan head bolts, washers and nylocs. I also chamfered the holes to keep the spider cracking that was starting to occur at bay.

Funny you mentioned this.  All of mine were finger loose as well and thought about replacing as you have done. One of mine is completely stripped and just spins freely.  Seemed like mine were lag screws and not bolts.  How was accessing the backside from underneath?  Seemed like it would be almost impossible to get too.  Great call on the chamfering! I wouldn't have thought of that. 

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