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Wiring troubleshooting for ballast pump


esebrown

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2005 23 LSV rear ballast tank is full of water and can’t empty it. Seemed like dead pump so I replaced the cartridge with new and no response, so...

As briefly as possible:

• jumped it directly to the battery and it started pumping. The ballast tank is already full so it bedan to overflow from two external ports but the gauge still showed full

• I reversed the polarity and the pump started up again but still would not empty tank. But when reversed the water only came out of one external port and each time I reversed it, it would switch between one exit port and two exit ports, yet would never empty the tank while water continuously flowed. 

• back at the switch, (after wiring it back to the switch) the switch lights up and when switched to fill, it turned the pump on and continued to overflow. Switching to empty, no response. 

So, it seems like there are two issues since when completely removing the switch from the equation and using the jumper, it would do something different when switching polarity, but would never empty. Then when using the switch, it would fill but not empty. 

Anyone?

 

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38 minutes ago, esebrown said:

2005 23 LSV rear ballast tank is full of water and can’t empty it. Seemed like dead pump so I replaced the cartridge with new and no response, so...

As briefly as possible:

• jumped it directly to the battery and it started pumping. The ballast tank is already full so it bedan to overflow from two external ports but the gauge still showed full

• I reversed the polarity and the pump started up again but still would not empty tank. But when reversed the water only came out of one external port and each time I reversed it, it would switch between one exit port and two exit ports, yet would never empty the tank while water continuously flowed. 

• back at the switch, (after wiring it back to the switch) the switch lights up and when switched to fill, it turned the pump on and continued to overflow. Switching to empty, no response. 

So, it seems like there are two issues since when completely removing the switch from the equation and using the jumper, it would do something different when switching polarity, but would never empty. Then when using the switch, it would fill but not empty. 

Anyone?

 

All above is wrong:

There is one pump dedicated to fill, one pump dedicated to drain..

These are aerator pumps and only work in one direction.

The fill pump located in bilge by transmission will come in from hull and exit a hose into tank... If you reverse the polarity it will still fill but real slow.

The drain pump is connected to the tank under floor with a hose exiting out of hull. Not sure on 2005, but my 2010 has an access to it at very rear of boat in locker (two screws open the access panel).

Also check your fuses first if you have not done so yet (not sure on 2005 but the 2010 has a fuse box under helm.

Let me know if you need further assistance :) 

Edited by kerpluxal
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2 hours ago, kerpluxal said:

All above is wrong:

There is one pump dedicated to fill, one pump dedicated to drain..

These are aerator pumps and only work in one direction.

The fill pump located in bilge by transmission will come in from hull and exit a hose into tank... If you reverse the polarity it will still fill but real slow.

The drain pump is connected to the tank under floor with a hose exiting out of hull. Not sure on 2005, but my 2010 has an access to it at very rear of boat in locker (two screws open the access panel).

Also check your fuses first if you have not done so yet (not sure on 2005 but the 2010 has a fuse box under helm.

Let me know if you need further assistance :) 

This exactly. As i recall our 2002 had in line fuses for each pump. Our 2011 has automotive style under he dash. If a pump is seized then it will pop that fuse for sure. You need to find the fuse too. I now have a box of spares in the dash, i think 5 amp, and a spare cartridge on hand all the time. 

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05 was the first year for under the floor rear ballast.  Be sure to check the breakers under the throttle, should be one for each pump.  f that doesn't fix it There are some good write-ups on here on how to create an access panel to get to the drain pumps.  Sometimes the pumps get stuck and trip the breakers and all you need to do is spin it and then it will work fine.  Sometimes you need a new cartridge.   

 

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If the breakers/fuses are good and the empty side of the switch is still not coming on. You can test tesistance across those two poles of the switch. If its 0. You need a switch.

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