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Purchasing first Malibu


Dodgerjunkie

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Hey group, I am currently looking at purchasing a 1989 Malibu Skier. Price is 7,000. It is well taken care of (owner worked at a boat shop). I am just a little nervous about the age of the boat. It has been well maintained and looks really good. This is mainly to pull us around on tubes, knee boards and wake boards. We are very recreational riders, just having fun out on the lake. Before I picked it up on Monday, thought I would send it out to you guys to let me know what you think. Figured no better place than this. Let me know please what you think.

 

Nate

Here is the link

 

https://fresno.craigslist.org/boa/d/salinas-89-malibu-skier/6832917278.html

 

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Good looking boat.  I think, but  others can confirm, those years still had wooden stringers. My only concern would be rot - you should be able to check around the motor mounts to see if anything is soft.   

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This is not a show-stopper, but one of the last things that went bad on our '90 skiier was the neutral safety (ignition) switch.  We usually had to find the sweet spot with the throttle to turn it over.  

Don't let the age scare you if it has been well kept.  Those boats are easy and (relatively) cheap to work on.  

Thanks for sending me back to memory lane for a minute.  Good luck

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martinarcher

Fond memories looking at those pics.  :thumbup:  Ours was an 88' Skier and was a fantastic boat.  They are easy to work on.  The engine is simple and easy to access.  That's Merc's 5.7L Comp Ski which is a 260hp GM 350 block with a Rochester marine Quadrajet on it.  It will have older points style ignition which is an easy upgrade to an electronic set-up (Pertronix),   As others mentioned the 89' would still have wooden stringers.  My 87' Sunsetter had a full stringer rebuild (gutted and new installed).  It really depends on who owned it and how it was stored and treated in it's former life.  I would check the bolts that mount the engine mounts to the stringers (lags) and make sure the wood holding them in is not rotted.  Also check around the drivers seat base and the area between the engine and the back seat.  These are all places that wet folks that just hopped out of the lake like to hang out.  :)  Other things that aren't bad to do but may need attention are the neutral safety switch (5 min job), the throttle and/or steering cable (if the controls feel overly stiff), fuel separator (on the port stringer) and filter (in carb base).

Good luck, these old boats have a ton of character, are easy to buy and maintain, and the Skier is a good slalom pull and a fantastic barefoot boat (you can foot right off the platform).  I threw a full ballast system in mine and we spend a lot of time learning to wakeboard and surf off it.  The bow is low so it will teach you how to drive and not chilli dip, but the good news is water rolls right off the bow!    

Good luck!

  • Like 3
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sharp boat ! - our neighbor had an 88 Sunsetter with the same colors - it had rebuilt stringers i believe.  It if was stored inside it's probably fine.   Did you take it for a lake test - that is very important.

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I think the theme here is clear, very THOROUGHLY check the stringers.  Any sign of rot = run.  Especially since that is getting toward top dollar for that boat.

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@Dodgerjunkie:  I suggest you dig through this website and research some of the threads posted on stringer replacement projects some members have undertaken.  This will provide you with some insight on how comprehensive that project can be.  Happy boat shopping.

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@Woodski @martinarcher @Nitrousbird @SkiPablo @hethj7 @ahopkinsVTX @INCOPPNITO @granddaddy55 @Stevo

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I’ve looked over the boat and DO NOT see rot. Taking it for a spin in Wednesday in the water. I’ve been trying to figure out how to post videos and pics. Just found out how. Take a look if you have a min and let me know what you think. He was asking 8500 but agreed price is 7,000

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4wBu5bStMq3hjTza7

Edited by Dodgerjunkie
correct to DO NOT see rot
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ahopkins22LSV
24 minutes ago, Dodgerjunkie said:

@Woodski @martinarcher @Nitrousbird @SkiPablo @hethj7 @ahopkinsVTX @INCOPPNITO @granddaddy55 @Stevo

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I’ve looked over the boat and do see rot. Taking it for a spin in Wednesday in the water. I’ve been trying to figure out how to post videos and pics. Just found out how. Take a look if you have a min and let me know what you think. He was asking 8500 but agreed price is 7,000

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4wBu5bStMq3hjTza7

If you become a supporting member to this site you can post directly from your phone or computer. Plus you unlock discounts to multiple vendors and you can easily make that money back in savings. 

  • Like 1
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I have a 89 Sunsetter, redid the stringers and transom.

 

Agree in check the engine mount bolts for rot, also check the thru bolts on the transom for rot too. Archer is correct, the majority of rot was around the drivers seat and in front of the back seat.

Engine is so simple to work on. Blew a head gasket at the beginning of last summer, machine shop couldn’t get to it for month. Bought a crate motor, delivered on Friday, was tubing on Sunday!

 

Have Fun!

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4 hours ago, Dodgerjunkie said:

@Woodski @martinarcher @Nitrousbird @SkiPablo @hethj7 @ahopkinsVTX @INCOPPNITO @granddaddy55 @Stevo

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I’ve looked over the boat and do see rot. Taking it for a spin in Wednesday in the water. I’ve been trying to figure out how to post videos and pics. Just found out how. Take a look if you have a min and let me know what you think. He was asking 8500 but agreed price is 7,000

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4wBu5bStMq3hjTza7

Rot = run, unless you want a project.  At that point, 7k is way too much IMO.  

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martinarcher

Where is the rot?  There is a vid in the album that has a guy inspecting stringers saying they are solid?  Did you try the lag bolts that hold the engine mount to the stringers?  Are they nice and tight?  Is the rot in the floor only?  The floor is a much easier repair than the stringers but still is a job for sure.  

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@martinarcher I haven't found any rot. I'll double check but the videos and pictures were to show I haven't found any yet. (I now see my typo..... It was supposed to say, Dont* see rot. Ill edit. 

@ahopkinsVTX If i buy the boat I will. Just waiting to own a malibu before I join the club. 

@Nitrousbird Sorry, i miss typed. I do NOT see rot. Ill edit post.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
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Just to clarify - how are you inspecting for rot?  You need to turn the engine mount bolts that bolt into the stringers with a wrench or ratchet to make sure they are tight and do not spin without resistance.  That really applies to anything bolted to the floor, take a wrench to it and turn it, and if it's snug or snugs up then you likely have no rot.  But if there are lags that spin without tightening, you will have problems with whatever that lag is supposed to hold.

Edit: my point is that just because you can't see any rot, does not mean that rot does not exist below the surface.

Edited by Michigan boarder
  • Like 1
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martinarcher

It looks to be in good shape so if it is free of rot, I'd pull the trigger on that one.  I love these old boats.....especially that color scheme.  I love those old gel lines back when they laid thin stripes and intricate gel patterns.  :thumbup:

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martinarcher

The biggest thing is keeping it dry.  Once you are done with a day on the lake dry it out the best you can and then if possible store it indoors uncovered.  That keeps it dry and lets it dry out after bringing it home from the lake.  I went so far as mounting a commercial exhaust fan above the boat bay in the garage to dry it out faster.  Without it, the carpet is still damp two days later.  With it, the carpet is bone dry the next morning.  Before I had the fan I used to shop vac the carpet out after we got home to help it dry out quicker.  That does help a lot but if more of a chore.  Even a good box fan sitting inside helps dry it out.  

It also helps to "open it up" to dry it out.  This means propping seats up so the air can get under the cushions, and opening up the dig box a bit and leaning the back seat forward to let air flow under the floor and dry out the bilge. 

I probably go a little overboard drying the boat out after an outing but it's better than letting it stay wet and dealing with rot  down the road.  

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I don't go as crazy as @martinarcher with a commerical exhaust fan, but there is no wood in my boat either.  I find a simple box fan works well for drying the interior.  Already have the onboard charger plugged into a power strip so easy to just plug in a fan.  

Ours is also in a garage and never covered. 

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