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Mod needed to keep boat on but can't put in gear


The Hulk

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Any ideas for a mod to keep engine on but a kid couldn't put in gear maybe some kind of secret switch? 

When we park at Sandbar if we are the one supplying music the batteries can drain quick, would be nice to turn engine on for a bit here and there but not have to worry about some toddlers engaging the throttle

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Put a hose clamp or rubber clamp on the throttle stick just above the little pull up switch  so that when you tighten it down that pull up switch will not move.  Depending on what you use, it would require someone getting a screwdriver or nutdriver out to loosen the clamp.  No toodler will do that without someone noticing I would hope.  Not a very elegant solution though.

I have never looked at the inner workings of these throttles.  Is that pull up safety switch purely a mechanical lockout or is that also connected to a wire that disables the transmission shifting unless it is up?  If there is a wired switch there aswell, there are is an infinite amount of elegant/hidden solutions available.  Something as simple as a keyed relay between throttle and tranny to open and close the connection if there is a wire there to interrupt.  I am assuming that is purely a mechanical lockout though?

Edit:  I guess there is actually a switch being controlled by that pull up deal on the throttle because you can push the button to rev the engine without engaging the tranny.  Find the tranny engagement wire.  Determine if it is just a voltage high/low trigger for the tranny.  Place a keyed switch inline on that wire back at the tranny or wherever it goes to.  Done.

 

Edited by D_Turner
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15 minutes ago, D_Turner said:

Put a hose clamp or rubber clamp on the throttle stick just above the little pull up switch  so that when you tighten it down that pull up switch will not move.  Depending on what you use, it would require someone getting a screwdriver or nutdriver out to loosen the clamp.  No toodler will do that without someone noticing I would hope.  Not a very elegant solution though.

I have never looked at the inner workings of these throttles.  Is that pull up safety switch purely a mechanical lockout or is that also connected to a wire that disables the transmission shifting unless it is up?  If there is a wired switch there aswell, there are is an infinite amount of elegant/hidden solutions available.  Something as simple as a keyed relay between throttle and tranny to open and close the connection if there is a wire there to interrupt.  I am assuming that is purely a mechanical lockout though?

Edit:  I guess there is actually a switch being controlled by that pull up deal on the throttle because you can push the button to rev the engine without engaging the tranny.  Find the tranny engagement wire.  Determine if it is just a voltage high/low trigger for the tranny.  Place a keyed switch inline on that wire back at the tranny or wherever it goes to.  Done.

 

I was thinking it was mechanical, not a bad idea on making some spacer clamed around in between there

So that button must be always connected unless pressed it's then a discount? , So add another switch in-between there?

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I honestly don't know about the wiring.  Never looked at one.  I am sure somebody else can chime in, but I imagine there is also something more going on with that safety pull up switch than it just being a mechanical lockout of the trans.  Just think about the scenario of pulling up the lockout and pushing the throttle forward or backward....the trans engages.  Well if you do the same thing with that little round button pushed in, the trans doesn't engage....so something else is happening there more than mechanical unless they got a pretty slick mechanical system going on there.  I suspect the round button and the safety pullup both are switches that have a wire going to the ECM or relay or something.  If you can find the wire coming from that pull-up safety, it is probably just a 5v switch or something.  Safety switch pulled up, you either have 5V or 0V going to a ECU/Relay input to allow trans to engage.   If that is all it is, figure out if it is normally open(0V) or normally closed(5V) when the safety switch is down, then on that wire just add a keyed switch.  If it is normally open(0V) when the trans is locked, that would be as simple as wiring the keyed switch inline.  When the key is in the locked position, the key would be ensuring an open circuit no matter what the safety switch on the throttle is doing.   Edit:  You would need to get a keyed switch that provides an "open" condition when the key is locked in this version of the setup. 

For instance, something like this(first one google came up with):

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/CKL13EFW01-002/360-3978-ND/1210412&?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIirSlvdnS4AIVglcNCh01qAsUEAQYASABEgIXm_D_BwE

Wire it so that when the key is locked and pulled out, the connection is 'Open' through switch....it doesn't matter what happens at the throttle safety switch, it will not ever provide a closed connection which would allow trans to engage.

To restate, I have no idea what the back of that throttle housing looks like.  My boat is in storage so can't look at anything right now.  I am sure somebody can chime in on the wiring of that pull up safety switch or it is purely mechanical lockout.  You will need to investigate the functionality of that safety switch just a little bit more.

Edit:  All depends on how all those switches function with each other, but if you bypass that safety switch and the throttle is not actually in neutral it might allow the engine to crank and start with the Throttle at a position other than idle which could create a problem if the throttle lever is wide open.  Trans wouldn't engage, but could panic rev?  :)   Again, more investigation needed into the back of that throttle linkage/switches.

Edited by D_Turner
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On older boats searay old MC I always thought the pull up or push in was mechanical, although they were also not throttle by wire.

My thoughts are the little button is they only thing electronic allowing to engage or not.. 

Mechanically I don't see why they would put wiring in the full up not to mention consider your pulling it up then doesn't it go back down after u get out of idle? Can't recall , with older boats u just pulled up or pushed lever in to get out of idle mechanical lock position so I'm thinking it's same.

also if you think about the arm swinging fwd and  backwards pulling up probably pulls a pin to clear some notch in the pivot path, letting it go it auto snaps into position when u get to idle.. 

My boat is In storage 3hrs away so can't look either.. it's a must do for this season. 

I could easily make a collar so you can't lift up the lever but on my old mastercraft that wore out and you could easily engaged with a little bit of force without lifting up.. and I have no idea the size or strength of Malibu's arm/lock so I would rather disconnect electrically.. 

the question is whether it is powered always are not powered always I guess I could buy two key switches so I can do it either way the same day assuming it works as I suspect

Edited by The Hulk
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Can you just wrap a the wrap around like dTurner mentioned? And carry a pair of side cutters to get it off. 

If you do just disconnect the transmission wires then a kid could jump in and throttle to wide open and jump away leaving the boat on to redline. 

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Honda generator with 12V output. 

Where's the neutral safety switch in the boats these days? You could use that and reconfigure to jump around it for both start and ignition power. Kick it in gear and kills the ignition. If it is an standard connection in the throttle unit, it would be easy to configure with a on/off switch to bypass it.

 

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16 hours ago, oldjeep said:

One question.  If you can't keep/teach the kids from putting it in gear, how are you going to keep them from gassing themselves out on the platform?   Bigger danger in running the boat at anchor is co poisoning someone. 

when at the sandbar kids are getting in/out of the boat all the time, there is typically a good breeze so its not that big of deal, less than when surfing.. we run it for 5-10 mins here and there if out all day to make sure the battery does not deplete too much. my boat only has 2* grp 24 size batteries so not the largest capacity since i'm running off only 1 house bank. if we CRANK the volume (no kids) then i have to keep on both batteries to keep good sound so i'm worried about killing batteries and not having way to start and having to jump.

i should upgrade to larger grp 27 batteries this year or add another parallel on the house. the largest problem however is after being out all day its only 5 min back to dock so they dont get much charge after being depleted. 

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ahopkins22LSV

Charge them at the dock. If I run my stereo all day I’ll through the charger on the batteries when I get back for the day. Someday I’ll add an onboard charger. I regret not getting that from the factory. 

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48 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

Charge them at the dock. If I run my stereo all day I’ll through the charger on the batteries when I get back for the day. Someday I’ll add an onboard charger. I regret not getting that from the factory. 

yea i've been meaning to put another solar charger on there for the batteries when gone all week. need to get it done this spring. 

given all the deaths each year i'm anti- electricity on the dock/lifts/over water..

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35 minutes ago, dcarl said:

You could carry a portable car jump starter. Some of them are very compact. I carry one with me the first couple outings in the spring in case off battery issues. 

A few guys at work use one of these.  They got them at costco and use them in the MN winter to jump their cars. I believe they said like $35 is what they paid and they for sure work.  May be a good safety net and could easily be used as a power hub for traveling etc.

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On 2/26/2019 at 1:01 PM, dcarl said:

You could carry a portable car jump starter. Some of them are very compact. I carry one with me the first couple outings in the spring in case off battery issues. 

problem with jumpers if you have to disconnect at least the positive of the battery terminal in most cases otherwise the jump pack is immediately depleted into the dead battery and then you have a dead jump pack and dead battery. 

 

i should also look into a higher amperage alternator as well, anyone know what stock 2016 malibu with 450 has for alternator amps? any suggestions on a better one that wont break the bank?

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ahopkins22LSV
10 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

problem with jumpers if you have to disconnect at least the positive of the battery terminal in most cases otherwise the jump pack is immediately depleted into the dead battery and then you have a dead jump pack and dead battery. 

 

i should also look into a higher amperage alternator as well, anyone know what stock 2016 malibu with 450 has for alternator amps? any suggestions on a better one that wont break the bank?

Why? Don’t you have a battery switch? Or am I thinking about this wrong?

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12 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

problem with jumpers if you have to disconnect at least the positive of the battery terminal in most cases otherwise the jump pack is immediately depleted into the dead battery and then you have a dead jump pack and dead battery. 

 

i should also look into a higher amperage alternator as well, anyone know what stock 2016 malibu with 450 has for alternator amps? any suggestions on a better one that wont break the bank?

Not a problem for me I always have a wrench tucked under the battery strap.  Those nuts are super clean and I disconnect mine every winter. Unlike a car or truck that go years without being taken off. disconnected.

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On 2/26/2019 at 11:40 AM, 05hammerhead said:

A few guys at work use one of these.  They got them at costco and use them in the MN winter to jump their cars. I believe they said like $35 is what they paid and they for sure work.  May be a good safety net and could easily be used as a power hub for traveling etc.

We have one in all our vehicles, motorhome and boat.  These little units have gotten a ton of people out a jam.  And just about always with out needing booster cables.

 

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On ‎2‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 12:40 PM, 05hammerhead said:

A few guys at work use one of these.  They got them at costco and use them in the MN winter to jump their cars. I believe they said like $35 is what they paid and they for sure work.  May be a good safety net and could easily be used as a power hub for traveling etc.

I carry a jump pack like that in my boat and it successfully saved a stranded boater last year.  No battery disconnect needed.

I charge it at the beginning of the season and it just stays in my boat.

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ahopkins22LSV

We used a jump pack to start a response in the middle of February to ski a few years ago. Hooked it up and cranked. Barely turned it over but it did it. It was a single battery setup though. I assume with a two batteries you just turn the switch to 1 or 2 then do the same. 

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Unhooking is the guaranteed way, depending on how dead the batter is it will slightly or greatly affect jump pack drawing it down or draining it completely very fast. If your in a bind it's safest to unhook and start.. a few times I didn't and battery was too dead ..killed jump pack.  No go..

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13 hours ago, The Hulk said:

Unhooking is the guaranteed way, depending on how dead the batter is it will slightly or greatly affect jump pack drawing it down or draining it completely very fast. If your in a bind it's safest to unhook and start.. a few times I didn't and battery was too dead ..killed jump pack.  No go..

OK - help me out on this, I have to be misunderstanding what you are saying.  So you are removing your battery from the circuit and then starting and running completely off the jump pack?  How do you then get the battery hooked back up?  Running without a "real" battery is a great way to fry all your electronics, as the battery is a buffer against voltage spikes.

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10 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

OK - help me out on this, I have to be misunderstanding what you are saying.  So you are removing your battery from the circuit and then starting and running completely off the jump pack?  How do you then get the battery hooked back up?  Running without a "real" battery is a great way to fry all your electronics, as the battery is a buffer against voltage spikes.

Yes, but I also agree with u to some extent, although modern electronics "should" all be tollerable to that if ddesiged with half a thought. Any small load or electronics will damper Voc down to safe levels. 

Better way would be to keep jump pack connected until u transfer cable back to battery then disconnect jumper to be absolutely safe. 

Putting a tiny charged battery to a dead one simply drains the jump pack very quickly and u also have to overcome to dead weight so to speak of the dead battery which is pulling a massive load from jump pack as soon as its connected. 

If your battery is dead dead u better hope she turns over on first try and u best turn over the second u hook up the jump pack. Granted these lithium type are much better than previous leelad acid jump packs. There is a huge difference in a battery that just can quite turn over and one that's way down. so unless you're carrying two jump packs you might want to go the safe route if stranded out on the lake.

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