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DDSurfer

New Order 19' 23 LSV Pseudo Stereo Build Advice

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DDSurfer

Hey guys, 

Inked an order this week for new 2019 23 LSV, and ended up with the fully loaded sound system (4 Rev10's, 8 Revos, 1 Unidentified Sub/amp). I am a long time stereo nerd, high school project was a full custom build exile system on our old 05 Sunsetter Lxi. I have been digging and digging in here trying to find the answer I'm looking for with regards to powering this system, but couldn't find it. 

I've got pretty good grip on the stock system now that I've familiarized myself with the WS brand and the new OEM line for Malibu. The conclusion I've come to from reading from the DIY experts here, the factory components I have are excellent (all speakers), but (at no fault of WS) Malibu has purposely under powered the system (idiot proofing, I get it). From my understanding, it's pretty tough to mess with the factory system and still maintain full integration (don't care about warranty on amps with training wheels). That being said, it appears possible to swap out amps to ones designed to power the high end components this boat is coming with, and with the help of a couple RCA adapters/converters it can maintain factory integration. 

 

What I'm hoping to get all your insight on, is under absolutely ideal conditions (in a perfect world, if you will) what amps have you guys used/would you recommend that really unlock the potential of this system? Obviously there will a budget limit at some point, but assume no budget constraints for now. I would really like to just have 3 really clean/efficient amps and would rather be "overkill" on the power delivery (actual, not mfg rated) versus just what the speakers are rated RMS. Reason I say this is I've read all over that to get the full potential of the Rev10's you should run ~400w clean at 4ohm to each speaker, assuming stable voltage/current delivery. Planning on adding 1 very high power (idk about SPL) 12" or so woofer in the passenger compartment, understanding that the under helm space is essentially shot on the new 2 piece boats. Honestly might decommission the under helm sub since I'd have to figure out how to power it separately.  I would do all of the install from my experience, aside from the sub enclosure I would contract out to the pros. I would really like a 3 amp setup since it's clean and simple, although not opposed to 4 amps in total. 

 

So, long winded intro aside, in a perfect world what 3 amps would you recommend: 1 amp for the 4 Revs, 1 amp for the 8 in boats, and 1 amp dedicated to the new higher power woofer (also would like recommendation for the woofer)? Probably an unrealistic scenario, but I'd like to have everything overpowered at 4 ohm, then dial back the gains accordingly, vs having an amp working really hard at 2ohm or less and resulting strain on stock electrical system. Where I've gotten so far in my own research, the Arc KS600.2 should be more than enough for the 4 Rev's, I have literally no idea on the interiors since I've never personally used a 6 channel amp, and there are thousands of monoblocks that will do the job for the sub. To reiterate, I'm looking for amps that exceed the RMS ratings of the WS components (responsibly) without having to break a sweat, or run hot enough to fry an egg on in 100 degree heat. Ideally, a situation where a pro audio guy would say "you've got the 3 best amps money can buy for this system." I'll pass on the $5K specialty amps that only work in a laboratory, obviously. 

 

For reference, I have always previously been an exile customer (bang for buck, frankly unbeatable customer service), but now I have ended up with the cream of the crop WS components so first experience with the brand. I spoke with the WS tech about factory integration and he mentioned something about in-line DSP's being a speedbump for factory integration. I know exile sells the RCA adapters, but what else do you need to consider for this theory to work in reality? A local audio pro I've been talking to suggested integrating one of the rockford 3.sixty.3 processors, but I don't know how to make that work with the factory system to be honest.

 

Appreciate your feedback in advance,

Mitch

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Slurpee

Sooooo. You want to be a stereo nerd and tweak it to your ear. 

My advice. Stereo delete. Save a thousand dollars or more of mark up. And build the system you want.

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DDSurfer

thanks for the suggestion, I considered that strongly but unfortunately i don't have the time (or stomach) for stereo delete on the new models. As far as the system I want, it's almost there, just need to feed it proper power. If I had the time I might try to tackle it, but have been averaging about 60 hours a week at work since I started (first full time job) so time is the main constraint. the deal I worked also resulted in basically getting the full sound system thrown in, I won't go into too much detail there but the cost-benefit of stereo delete wasn't apparent like it typically would be. 

If it were a stereo delete, what would you recommend for the power? 

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Slurpee

Cool.

My single opinion. And you’re going to get more. JL Hd750/1 for the sub (regulated power for low frequency high current drive), Sd2 for the towers (whoa it’s juiced). For the cockpit you can start with a sd4. That’ll allow “factory” integration. 

But if you’re really gonna tweak it you don’t want to run parrallel in different zones. You want individual channels to tune. The DSP eq does you no good tuning phase and time if the zones are parrallleled. *if* you plan on that then an SD6 for the main cabin and an MX280/4 to the bow. 

Add DSP or EQ to your hearts content. Kiss factory integration goodbye. I think it’s pointless since you’re driving from your phone anyways. That’s me though. I run a JL TWK88 and D8.  I’m a nerd though.  Most folks don’t bother with that.  Takes too much time. I’m still tweaking 2 years later for fun.   

My advice is value your time over the stereo unless it’s really your fun thing. You can substitute Exile Amps for equivalent wetsounds amps if you feel more comfortable.  Both are fine. 

 

Edited by Slurpee

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DDSurfer

Thanks for your insight, this is really valuable. Appreciate you taking the time to lay this out for me. 

Looks like probably stay away from messing with the signals and just replace the amps is going to be the best fit for me. 

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