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Dfowkes

2019 Malibu 25LSV maiden voyage

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Dfowkes
43 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

You know your new boat has closed cooling right?

I’m pretty sure it’s only partially closed, and still uses impeller to cool heat exchanger. 

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The Hulk
4 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

You know your new boat has closed cooling right?

Yes but I still think it would register quicker or better yet an exhaust temp warning

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Dfowkes
36 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

Yes but I still think it would register quicker or better yet an exhaust temp warning

Absolutely and shut down to prevent damage 

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Bobdog

If your issue is the same as mine there is no alarm . At least my 2106 LSV didn’t sound when my boat did the same thing last year. Boat is a Closed system with heater. Was ask by the dealer If I used my heater to which I replied, “yes, twice in the last three weeks. He told me that the heater can cause loss of antifreeze. Never heard of that one. Was told that the exhaust manifold boots were not lined up properly from the factory which caused a vibration rub in one of the boots. The resulting leak, and the low antifreeze caused the boat to overheat. When ask about alarm he said the alarm sensor was upstream from problem area. Temp gauge was showing 230 when I shut it down. 

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The Hulk
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, shawndoggy said:

You know your new boat has closed cooling right?

Still too many potential problems with this IMO

I prefer measuring the heater rather than whats being heated.

Ok for $250-300 retail add all 3, flow, ext temp and block temp all of which would register far sooner than the current setup. 

I don't believer a second that the engine temp is only 200 by the time said medium (depening on engine, year, model etc) is registering 200. And on previous years with half closed you still are only measuring raw water and if it's detached u have NO alarm until engine is blown.

as hard as we are running these engines with loaded up surf boats it simply does not make any sense to me, with a little extra cost you would have instant notification of a problem without damage. Most of the time surfing you're running 3/4 plus on throttle depending on the boat and set up.. a lot can go wrong quickly

But then again I guess it wouldn't be good for the repair industry

Edited by The Hulk

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TenTwentyOne
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, The Hulk said:

Yes but I still think it would register quicker or better yet an exhaust temp warning

The only way a block sensor would register an overheat quicker, is if the coolant was very low, and the head sensor can't read it. I can definitely see how a block sensor would be beneficial in an open cooled engine. It is definitely common in an open cooled setup, to have an impellor failure, or inlet restriction, cause the engine to be low on water. It still wouldn't catch it in time though. The head temps would have already skyrocketed. The problem doesn't exist in the block being hotter, it exists in the fact that if the sensor is not submerged in the cooling water, it doesn't read the temp accurately. The cylinder head will always be hotter than the engine block, if you are having cooling issues. However, during normal conditions, the lower block can be easily at 200-220 degrees because the oil temperature will have a large impact in that area. Oil temp will normally run between 200-230, and that lower half of the block doesn't have water jackets. So, a 200 degree sensor down there, would not be beneficial. You'd think that oil temps of 200-230 would not be a great thing to have, but it is actually a lot better for your engine to have oil temps above 212 degrees (and below 260). If your oil doesn't get up to 212 periodically, it gets very contaminated in a very short period of time.

 

Having an EGT warning wouldn't really tell you anything. Exhaust temps increase and decrease with load. They are not relative to the effectiveness of the cooling system. You could possibly see an advantage to having a sensor after the manifolds, that would notice a spike if there was an absence of cooling water......however, that type of sensor wouldn't last 10 seconds when the cooling system was working properly. The only type of sensor you could use, is an enclosed thermistor, which would only register if it was submerged. It wouldn't work for the same reasons that the temp sensor in the head doesn't work, if coolant is low.

 

 

1 hour ago, Bobdog said:

If your issue is the same as mine there is no alarm . At least my 2106 LSV didn’t sound when my boat did the same thing last year. Boat is a Closed system with heater. Was ask by the dealer If I used my heater to which I replied, “yes, twice in the last three weeks. He told me that the heater can cause loss of antifreeze. Never heard of that one. Was told that the exhaust manifold boots were not lined up properly from the factory which caused a vibration rub in one of the boots. The resulting leak, and the low antifreeze caused the boat to overheat. When ask about alarm he said the alarm sensor was upstream from problem area. Temp gauge was showing 230 when I shut it down. 

The heater absolutely does not consume coolant. Also, an exhaust boot failure will not cause the closed cooling system to be low either...…… 

Edited by TenTwentyOne

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TenTwentyOne

@The Hulk- Flow sensor though...…… That should be a given. I have no idea why marine engine manufacturers are not using flow sensors. You'd think that would be a bare minimum to prevent common overheat issues from becoming blown engine issues.

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The Hulk
19 minutes ago, TenTwentyOne said:

@The Hulk- Flow sensor though...…… That should be a given. I have no idea why marine engine manufacturers are not using flow sensors. You'd think that would be a bare minimum to prevent common overheat issues from becoming blown engine issues.

Marine Mechanics Association's.. Lobbyist.... 

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shawndoggy
7 hours ago, Dfowkes said:

I’m pretty sure it’s only partially closed, and still uses impeller to cool heat exchanger. 

Even a fully closed system (with jacketed exhaust manifolds) is going to depend on raw water to cool a heat exchanger.

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dealjb
12 hours ago, bbattiste247 said:

This isn't our maiden voyage, but only our third time out in our brand new 25 lsv with only 6 hours on it. Just as we pulled out of the wakeless speed area and started to our destination, the boat shut down and the engine temp was over 200. Fortunately, another Malibu saw us in distress and towed us in. 

20190303_131340_1551647700416_001.thumb.jpg.6861a830e983a7c143891d138cb9d784.jpg

IMG_6460_1548643143548.jpg

Beautiful boat!

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carguy79ta

I've had overheating on 2 boats.  2015 A22, the temp.sensor would go off, I would shut the motor and restart, it would go away. This is when boat was brand new. Took it for 25hr service and they reflashed the computer, no probs.  Then a year later, the boat overheated and it turned out that the sea strainer was clogged, not letting water thru. Had the dealer put in a sea thru inline strainer, I could check and clean. On my 257, when new, the boat started overheating one time at about 30 hrs. So I am fiddling around trying to figure what's up, meanwhile, my wife keeps sayin, maybe the belt broke...I say whatever honey, I am shutting down the motor, thinking it needs a reboot, so I finally say OK honey I will check the belt. Lo and behold, it was lying in the hull.  (got to listen to the wives..)So I start to put it back on and notice the tensioner bracket had broken also and was lying in the hull. 30 hrs old or so. Dealer fixed it, gave me a new belt for a spare, on my way. Last season the temp warning went on, but the boat was not overheating. it was the the sensor. On the H6 motor, the exhaust manifold bolts have been known to loosen or break. (according to the interwebs) mine were fine. 

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NHolladay
On 2/22/2019 at 11:25 PM, Dfowkes said:

These are a repost of the surf wave from a demo at AWS of my boat. @NWBU posted them earlier 

D755EDF4-6FE9-470D-9E48-D23F412B25DC.jpeg

AF53F192-F9BC-4D42-84F9-D3D46F5A1FBD.jpeg

Goofy wave p*** for sure especially this time of year.

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NHolladay
1 minute ago, NHolladay said:

Goofy wave p*** for sure especially this time of year.

P  O  R N

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hethj7

Any update on what caused the issue?

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TallRedRider

BBatiste blew an impeller, he's not quite as obsessive about the site, but did send me a text.    Strange for that to happen so quickly, time will tell if it is a sign of a larger design flaw.  I am up to 4 hours now and running strong, haha.  

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hethj7

1.8 hours on mine and still running my original impeller!

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SpaceSurfer

This may sound stupid but I've gotta ask if there's a "First Timers" Video for Malibu? Things like how to check the impeller, sea strainer, etc. I know the dealer is supposed to show ya but what about for us peeps that bought an almost-new boat 2nd hand...

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ahopkinsVTX
24 minutes ago, SpaceSurfer said:

This may sound stupid but I've gotta ask if there's a "First Timers" Video for Malibu? Things like how to check the impeller, sea strainer, etc. I know the dealer is supposed to show ya but what about for us peeps that bought an almost-new boat 2nd hand...

This may not have everything you are looking for but is a decent list and video instruction. 

 

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LateNightSalami
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, SpaceSurfer said:

This may sound stupid but I've gotta ask if there's a "First Timers" Video for Malibu? Things like how to check the impeller, sea strainer, etc. I know the dealer is supposed to show ya but what about for us peeps that bought an almost-new boat 2nd hand...

This doesn't sound stupid at all and it is where I was not long ago (though my purchase was older). If you google search using the specifics of your boat there is a ton of information on the web. There are many youtube tutorials and tons of information on the forums like malibucrew. It helps greatly to know the models of the major parts of your boat (engine, vdrive, transmission) so you can narrow the search. Also try to figure out a few mostly trusted website (like malibucrew) that will have communities that can help vet information for you. Try to verify every piece by getting multiple sources. If lots of people are saying the same thing it is more likely to be correct than not. Lastly, don't be afraid to ask specific questions on this forum. There are plenty of people willing help you out if you are willing to put in some time to learn about your own boat (obviously people can't do it for you over a keyboard). I have seen many diagrams exchanged in verifying part installations and how the plumbing works in their particular boats. Hell I had to be told where the close off valve for the fresh water intake was.

We are all aware that mechanics know that boats are a luxury item so they can charge more for their services and are happy to help someone save a buck or two so long as it doesn't pose severe risk of damaging their boat (no one likes being land locked). It also has the added benefit of being able to trouble shoot if you get into a sticky situation on the water.

Edited by LateNightSalami

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COOP
Posted (edited)
On 3/4/2019 at 6:29 AM, TenTwentyOne said:

 

The heater absolutely does not consume coolant. Also, an exhaust boot failure will not cause the closed cooling system to be low either...…… 

The heaters on a closed cooled motor use the same antifreeze/coolant in circulation as the motor. We happens on the motors is that they are shipped with the correct amount of coolant, but when the motors and heaters are put into the boats at the factory, the heater will take about a gallon of coolant away from the total amount as it pulls into the hoses and heating element. When people add straight coolant its thicker and causes flow issues. We always have to top off the coolant/antifreeze in the newer motors, with the correct mixture.

As far as the boot failure, if its an Indmar motor, that leak and the way the water flows through those boots, if misaligned, will cause the exhaust manifolds to get hot and possibly cause and overheat shutdown. But the manifolds are not part of the closed cooled system.

Edited by COOP

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TenTwentyOne
3 minutes ago, COOP said:

The heaters on a closed cooled motor use the same antifreeze/coolant in circulation as the motor. We happens on the motors is that they are shipped with the correct amount of coolant, but when the motors and heaters are put into the boats at the factory, the heater will take about a gallon of coolant away from the total amount as it pulls into the hoses and heating element. When people add straight coolant its thicker and causes flow issues. We always have to top off the coolant/antifreeze in the newer motors, with the correct mixture.

Sure, when the boat is new, it needs to be topped off because of filling the hoses and core in the heater system. Once it is properly filled the first time, it should maintain that level (except for the ridiculously tiny amount that can evaporate out of the expansion tank over a significant amount of time.)

It doesn’t, however, consume coolant from the system, just because you use the heater (which was the statement I was addressing)

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TallRedRider

@Dfowkes, is your rear ballast eternally slow?   I did not measure it, but I am going to guess it is about 16 minutes to fill the rear ballast.  I am already debating how to plumb in a supplemental pump.  Has anyone done this?  I have heard it was slow before, but experiencing it was disappointing.  

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eubanks
5 minutes ago, TallRedRider said:

@Dfowkes, is your rear ballast eternally slow?   I did not measure it, but I am going to guess it is about 16 minutes to fill the rear ballast.  I am already debating how to plumb in a supplemental pump.  Has anyone done this?  I have heard it was slow before, but experiencing it was disappointing.  

Yeah, even with split fill lines it takes forever.  I think both the mid and front tanks were near or at 100% when the rear's were still reading 0% while filling all at the same time.

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Dfowkes
1 hour ago, TallRedRider said:

@Dfowkes, is your rear ballast eternally slow?   I did not measure it, but I am going to guess it is about 16 minutes to fill the rear ballast.  I am already debating how to plumb in a supplemental pump.  Has anyone done this?  I have heard it was slow before, but experiencing it was disappointing.  

I will say that the fill time in my 2019 25LSV is definitely faster than my 2016 25LSV.  But it did not measure the fill time.  Don't get me started about the pumps and rear fill times other members and myself have suggested dual pumps or something else so that the all the ballast would be full at same time.  It's a simple math problem, size of the tank and the output for the pump.  I love the wave from both of 25LSV's and the wait is annoying but worth every second.  

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