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Lees23

Adding low end to 2017+ set up

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Lees23

Is there an obvious answer here that is not terribly expensive?  I have a couple of thoughts, some of them very “chintzy”.

1. Replacing Wetsounds Revo sub with a different sub.  Amp only seems to be rated at 4 ohms in the sub channel and most heavier duty subs are 4 ohm DVC(2 or 8 ohm load).  Are there options this route?

2. Buying a matching sub, building a box, adding an amp and placing it in the observers compartment.  Would you want to stick to a sealed box here because the factory sub is in a sealed box or would it be okay to build a ported box?

3.  Has anyone looked to see if a JL 12” IB will fit in the wall between the observers compartment and the bow hard tank area? I have heard that the 12” JL IB is pretty impressive.  This would be great because it’s not occupying precious storage space.  Having different(brands and types) subs would obviously not the best idea for sound quality but I think this route would help increase the perception of low notes partially by increasing tactile feel.  The Natiques with the 10” JL in the location really seem to have impressive low end and the whole damn boat shakes.  Obviously need to add an amp here.

4.  Off brand(not Wetsounds) sub/amp/box in the observers compartment.  What comes to mind is the JL 12W6 in the prefabbed JL ported box. 

 

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MLA
19 hours ago, Lees23 said:

. Replacing Wetsounds Revo sub with a different sub.  Amp only seems to be rated at 4 ohms in the sub channel and most heavier duty subs are 4 ohm DVC(2 or 8 ohm load).  Are there options this route?

The amp is a 6 chnl amp. The woofer is bridged on chnls 5/6. A 4 ohm load/woofer, is the lowest impedance you can safely bridge on that amp. FYI, 4 ohm is pretty standard across the board, the lowest load you can bridge across 2 chnls. So, no real advantage to moving to another 12" 4 ohm woofer, as the output is going to be nearly identical. You cannot safely move to a 4 ohm DVC wire to 2 ohm and bridge it. Amp wont like it, and will go into protect mode. 

20 hours ago, Lees23 said:

2. Buying a matching sub, building a box, adding an amp and placing it in the observers compartment.  Would you want to stick to a sealed box here because the factory sub is in a sealed box or would it be okay to build a ported box?

Installing another woofer and amp, would basically, double the output. No issue IMO, with a 2nd woofer on its own amp, being in a different enclosure alignment, from the existing. However, you would want it on the same plane, and you would HAVE TO vent that locker. 

When was the last time you had your dealer install the latest amp tune updates?  I know Bu has gone with a conservative tune, but they have also worked with the audio manufacturer to improve the output. I would make sure my system has the latest and greatest tune, before doing anything else. 

Another factor is the head unit. I do not recall the 2017 media unit having true zone level control, but you want to make sure there is no limiting factor there.  

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Lees23

Thanks MLA.  The latest tune was just installed.  

 

I am not sure venting the locker is possible.  I really don’t want to cut visible surfaces. 

 

What about pulling that sub, replacing it with another and adding an amp to power it.  I believe that enclosure is around 1.1 feet cubed.  JL 12W6?

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MLA
19 minutes ago, Lees23 said:

What about pulling that sub, replacing it with another and adding an amp to power it.  

Why do feel the woofer is the issue? 

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Lees23
6 minutes ago, MLA said:

Why do feel the woofer is the issue? 

Just looking for more output. 

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Slurpee

JL 12W6v3D4 ported driven by a JL HD750.1 in my drivers compartment. More than enough low end. Very tight and clean and loud.

But honestly put some real power to your existing sub. Triple check the enclosure is robust, rigid, sealed well.  All of those will also steal power from your output. 

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Lees23

Thanks Slurpee.  Any plans to the box that you built for your W6?  I thought about trying to build a ported box for Revo.  

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COOP
On 2/15/2019 at 9:08 PM, Lees23 said:

Thanks MLA.  The latest tune was just installed.  

 

I am not sure venting the locker is possible.  I really don’t want to cut visible surfaces. 

 

What about pulling that sub, replacing it with another and adding an amp to power it.  I believe that enclosure is around 1.1 feet cubed.  JL 12W6?

If you replace the factory sub with a higher power one I would make a new box. The factory box is made out of 1/2" plastic. W6 is a good sub, keep in mind its dual 6 ohm coils, so it can be a 3 ohm woofer or a 12 ohm woofer. I also really like the T1s from Rockford. I just notice that the coils on the w6 may be different now.  I havent kept up with JL to much. 

Edited by COOP

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Slurpee
On 2/15/2019 at 9:55 PM, Lees23 said:

Thanks Slurpee.  Any plans to the box that you built for your W6?  I thought about trying to build a ported box for Revo.  

Ported Box Design 8.skp

I attached it in another thread.  Here's the Sketchup Design.

Edited by Slurpee

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MLA

Two red flags, going with that enclosure design. 1) it will not match well with the T/S parameters of the OEM woofer. 2) You will not be able to tune the amp for the new enclosure. 

Edited by MLA

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Slurpee

Very true.  The box design I just posted is specifically and only for a JL12W6v3D4.  You'll need to build a WinISD model up for your woofer and play with enclosure parameters and such for any other woofer.  Most mfg also post up a recommended sealed and ported reference design you can start with.

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MLA
On 2/15/2019 at 10:34 PM, Lees23 said:

Just looking for more output. 

I understand that completely. The first thing you need to do, is identify the reasons, and address those area. Changing the woofer, may be tossing the baby out with the bath water, heres why. 

1) You have a great woofer that would like nothing more, then to be in a ported enclosure.  2) You have a woofer that would love to be driven with an amp delivering in the range of 700-1000 watt rms. 

Neither of these scenarios currently exist on your boat. Your current OEM woofer, as a single component, is not whats holding back the bass. If you are contemplating a woofer change, that leads to an enclosure change, that leads to an amp change. Why not just retain the perfectly good nearly new woofer you have, and build a ported enclosure for it, then install an amp with more wattage @ 4 ohm, and one that gives you, then end user, the ability to tune the setup to its potential and your liking.

This is why I asked the question, why you felt the woofer was the issue.  

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Lees23
3 hours ago, MLA said:

I understand that completely. The first thing you need to do, is identify the reasons, and address those area. Changing the woofer, may be tossing the baby out with the bath water, heres why. 

1) You have a great woofer that would like nothing more, then to be in a ported enclosure.  2) You have a woofer that would love to be driven with an amp delivering in the range of 700-1000 watt rms. 

Neither of these scenarios currently exist on your boat. Your current OEM woofer, as a single component, is not whats holding back the bass. If you are contemplating a woofer change, that leads to an enclosure change, that leads to an amp change. Why not just retain the perfectly good nearly new woofer you have, and build a ported enclosure for it, then install an amp with more wattage @ 4 ohm, and one that gives you, then end user, the ability to tune the setup to its potential and your liking.

This is why I asked the question, why you felt the woofer was the issue.  

This is extremely helpful.  Thank you, Mike. 

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