1999 Malibu Sunsetter VLX Restoration

[wakesetterDD]

4 hours ago, UWSkier said:

PP servo motor rotation should feel somewhat notchy/sticky. That's normal. 

ok, awesome, thanks for the re-assurance!

[wakesetterDD]

I was outside with the kids today and noticed that a wire was totally disconnected on my trailer wiring.  It was a white wire running to a ground screw.  I thought this might explain why the lights didn't work at the end of the season and since.  It was really hard to notice because the wire hid under the trailer and the screw and what was left of the wire on it were black like the trailer. 

So I soldered in a splice and voila, lights working again.  Yes! https://photos.app.goo.gl/MXfHKNhCdmvc5QfG6 

[wakesetterDD]

Back to the Perfect Pass fix: battery back in; boat and PP power up fine; I can't turn the black knob when boat/PP on (motor holding it in place) and then the motor did the 3/4 auto tighten after powering on (I loosen the knob 3/4 turn and then the motor turns it back to full tight)- I think this whole issue was due to the set screw being lose.  It's tight now!  Unbelievable but awesome because it didn't cost me $1500 to fix/replace.  Final confirmation: water test... maybe in May since it's still frozen here.

Edited April 10, 2020 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

Boat came with no blower.  Switch is right there in the dash but no blower in the engine compartment.  Bought one, found power at the switch, no yellow wires left in the engine, ran new wires.  Install not complete yet (if you look at the photos) but should be soon- waiting on a spade receiver connector to hook onto the switch. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ovkaS4ThrwH3acWf8 

 

Working on heater.  The pipes from the core that come out of the housing broke off when I tried to remove the hoses for winterization back in the fall of 2019.  I am frugal so I am hoping to just replace the core. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WHU6j8ZQhBjqFidf7   Dealer quoted me more than $800 for a heater kit... yikes!

Edited April 18, 2020 by wakesetterDD

[Bozboat]

2 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

Boat came with no blower.  Switch is right there in the dash but no blower in the engine compartment.  Bought one, found power at the switch, no yellow wires left in the engine, ran new wires.  Install not complete yet (if you look at the photos) but should be soon- waiting on a spade receiver connector to hook onto the switch. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ovkaS4ThrwH3acWf8 

 

Working on heater.  The pipes from the core that come out of the housing broke off when I tried to remove the hoses for winterization back in the fall of 2019.  I am frugal so I am hoping to just replace the core. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WHU6j8ZQhBjqFidf7   Dealer quoted me more than $800 for a heater kit... yikes!

Blower in the engine compartment?

did you find any blower anywhere ?

[UWSkier]

54 minutes ago, Bozboat said:

Blower in the engine compartment?

did you find any blower anywhere ?

On my dad's 01 SS VLX, the blower is bolted directly to the port stringer next to the bell housing. 

[Bozboat]

2 hours ago, UWSkier said:

On my dad's 01 SS VLX, the blower is bolted directly to the port stringer next to the bell housing. 

Crazy V Drives

[wakesetterDD]

4 hours ago, UWSkier said:

On my dad's 01 SS VLX, the blower is bolted directly to the port stringer next to the bell housing. 

I think someone removed it... kinda UNSAFE!

[Eagleboy99]

16 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

Working on heater.  The pipes from the core that come out of the housing broke off when I tried to remove the hoses for winterization back in the fall of 2019.  I am frugal so I am hoping to just replace the core. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WHU6j8ZQhBjqFidf7   Dealer quoted me more than $800 for a heater kit... yikes!

Dealer-schmealer...  https://heatercraft.com/collections/marine-heater-parts/products/heater-cores?variant=50884163339  

[wakesetterDD]

Today I started up the boat; took a while to setup but she fired up like a champ.  Absolutely zero hesitation. watch the 44 second video at https://photos.app.goo.gl/pJ7kuTA17qR2BZLY7  Checked all hoses and clamps.  No leaks.  728.8hrs.  Note that I clearly drained my engine well in the fall as no water shot out upon fire up.  Also note that I did not fog the engine during winterization (with fogging oil) after reading that some people, living in a very cold and dry climate like me, do not do this.  Therefore there was really no "smoke" upon fire up.  I also want to note that based on this topic below, I believe I have adequate water circulation as I have a similar amount of water exiting during idle and it does increase as the throttle is increased (in neutral of course). 

 

Batteries measuring 15V while engine running.  Normal engine and oil temps while running.  Probably ran the boat for 5 minutes twice, totaling 10 minutes.  I will run it for longer another day when I am ready to change the oil.

I tried turning my high pass filter on for the 4-channel amp running my 4 in-boat speakers after learning that some people do this when they have a separate subwoofer (I learned this after responding to someone's post about an amp issue).  That seemed to help clean up the sound (make it more clear).   Then I also turned up the gain on the 4 channel amp from low to high and now I don't have to crank the volume on the deck way up before I can start to hear the music.  Sounds better.  I think my rear port speaker is blown tho.

I removed the driver seat the other day as I would like to get a 6-8" high metal frame made so the driver doesn't have to add life jackets to the seat to see above the dash.

I removed my heater; I was told be Heatercraft that a new core would not fit my old box so I am still thinking thru my options.  Maybe I'll just buy a two outlet heater and stick it under a seat (easier fit and there are too many electronics under the dash so better to avoid that area).  I went to move the heater hoses out from under the dash- no problem, but they continue into the ski locker and then back beside the gas tank and then to the engine compartment.  Nothing moved when I pulled.  I looked up some photos from when I removed the gas tank and sure enough they heater hoses are secured beside the gas tank in two locations and of course the engine compartment as well.  So I won't be pulling them out anytime soon.  But that's fine, a heater isn't a show stopper and I might have enough hose from what's left ahead of the gas tank and behind it (in the engine compartment) to make it to my new heater location.  Stay tuned...

I am also trying to fill the snaps with Boat Life Life Seal.  The snaps are for a cover that is long gone and I hate hitting them getting in and out of the boat.  I will see how well Life Seal is curing and covering the three or four test holes I tried today. 

Edited April 22, 2020 by wakesetterDD
found photos of gas tank removal showing heater hoses secured to boat

[wakesetterDD]

The Boat Life Life Seal seems to be curing very slowly.  Honestly, it is so slow I question whether or not anything is happening or if it needs like thirty degree weather (which we rarely get, let alone in April).  I will report on the weekend maybe.

There is a cool black button, a simple air pump on the underside of the captain's chair.  I discovered elsewhere on TMC that this is a lumbar.  I assume it fills with air as you depress the buttom multiple times and exhales if you sit against it and push the button.  It definitely does not work anymore. https://photos.app.goo.gl/czMBueXRxrvqVas46 

I am waiting on a quote from the local MetalSuperMarkets re: captain's chair riser: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipN48NGv3RKE3tM-7pKACgyLE1MqJNp47tlQZMO_  hoping to get another 4-6" so I don't have to load up the life jackets on the seat (which just slip out from under the bum anyway).

I discovered this odd loose wire.  It's brown and white, or, black and white. https://photos.app.goo.gl/mgCYqUi6TcQi89Gw5 There is no voltage on it, so it could be ground, or some kind of sensor wire.  The are some wires going into sensors or connectors that attach at the transmission and they are the same color.   ANY CLUE WHAT THIS IS?

[UWSkier]

The black button isn't a pump.  There's a bladder in the seatback that will fill up when you press the button and lean forward.  Press the button again and lean back into the seat to squeeze the air out.  My boat has that.  So does my dad's.  They both still work.

[justgary]

On my '99 monsoon, I see a black with white wire coming out from under the ECM harness and going to the ground stud on the transmission bell.  It's in the same bundle with a large and small black, a large red, and a large yellow with red.  That bundle is under the cannon plug and 50 amp breaker.

The other side of the engine has several black with white wires.  One goes to the fuel pump, one goes to pin A of the MEFI data connector. Neither of them have a ring on the other end. 

A brown with white goes to the oil sender, and one goes to MEFI pin E.

If your wire is black with white, I think you should ground it on the lug at the transmission bell. 

By the way, it's ok to take a garden hose to your engine and clean it up....

[wakesetterDD]

12 hours ago, UWSkier said:

The black button isn't a pump.  There's a bladder in the seatback that will fill up when you press the button and lean forward.  Press the button again and lean back into the seat to squeeze the air out.  My boat has that.  So does my dad's.  They both still work.

oh, interesting.  Ok, I'll try that!

[Eagleboy99]

On 4/22/2020 at 12:11 AM, wakesetterDD said:

I am also trying to fill the snaps with Boat Life Life Seal.  The snaps are for a cover that is long gone and I hate hitting them getting in and out of the boat.  I will see how well Life Seal is curing and covering the three or four test holes I tried today.

Just put snap caps on them to fill the holes.

 

[wakesetterDD]

1 hour ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Just put snap caps on them to fill the holes.

 

Like this? https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/sea-ray-snap-caps-light-gray-plastic-boat-snap-cap-set-of-20  I want the surface of the cap/snap to be flush with the boat fiberglass.

[Eagleboy99]

34 minutes ago, wakesetterDD said:

Like this? https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/sea-ray-snap-caps-light-gray-plastic-boat-snap-cap-set-of-20  I want the surface of the cap/snap to be flush with the boat fiberglass.

If they have to be flush then the only real solution is to remove and glass the holes.  A few hundred bucks I would guess.

[wakesetterDD]

On 4/22/2020 at 10:45 PM, justgary said:

On my '99 monsoon, I see a black with white wire coming out from under the ECM harness and going to the ground stud on the transmission bell.  It's in the same bundle with a large and small black, a large red, and a large yellow with red.  That bundle is under the cannon plug and 50 amp breaker.

The other side of the engine has several black with white wires.  One goes to the fuel pump, one goes to pin A of the MEFI data connector. Neither of them have a ring on the other end. 

A brown with white goes to the oil sender, and one goes to MEFI pin E.

If your wire is black with white, I think you should ground it on the lug at the transmission bell. 

By the way, it's ok to take a garden hose to your engine and clean it up....

If it helps, there is another wire that comes out of the bundle that is light blue (see additional photos at link) that connects to what I believe is the Oil Pressure Sending Unit Sensor (https://www.bakesonline.com/indmar-oil-pressure-sending-unit-sensor.html).  The light blue wire goes to it; note that BakesOnline.com Malibu wiring colour guide does show light blue as oil pressure.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/mgCYqUi6TcQi89Gw5

Another forum (below) talks about another sensor: https://www.bakesonline.com/indmar-oil-pressure-switch-sensor.html  It's small and I can't find it... is it missing from my pictures?  See photo from BozBoat that he uploaded of his oil pressure/sender setup.  It looks as if where my brass bolt is to the right of the sending unit should have the pressure switch plug into it; and instead the previous owner just installed a plug and disconnected the wire. 

I tested the situation by "grounding" the black and white wire to the ground stud on the transmission.  Nothing happens EXCEPT then I turned the key to the ignition to ON (engine off of course) and something starts to beep.  So then WITH THE KEY ON I measured 11V to ground from this odd loose black and wire (with a ring connector).  So this wire is actually "hot."  I am reading some other threads that tell me this wire may have been disconnected intentionally to get ride of the beep.  BUT I still don't see where it is supposed to connect!- unless I'm missing a pressure switch sensor.

Thanks for your help! '99 VLX

 

 

[braindamage]

On 4/22/2020 at 9:50 PM, wakesetterDD said:

I am waiting on a quote from the local MetalSuperMarkets re: captain's chair riser: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipN48NGv3RKE3tM-7pKACgyLE1MqJNp47tlQZMO_  hoping to get another 4-6" so I don't have to load up the life jackets on the seat (which just slip out from under the bum anyway).

If you don’t have a swivel, now is a good time to add one.

 

[wakesetterDD]

On 4/25/2020 at 5:29 AM, braindamage said:

If you don’t have a swivel, now is a good time to add one.

 

I definitely like the idea of a swivel but I feel that the back of the seat will hit the gunnel very quickly unless it is significantly off-set from the center of the base.  As is, my first attempt at a riser is wobbly because the support structure is not as wide as the stock support bolts all the way through the riser.

First attempt: used 3 sizes of lumber to raise : 1.5+1.5+0.5" = 3.5"; seat off-set towards the back of the boat compared to where it at stock- this helps access and proximity to the stereo/hatch lift button cover on the side. See photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/czMBueXRxrvqVas46 ; I considered stacking 2x6s but that was way too high.  This would be more stable if I stacked 2X12" or 2x14" lengths of lumber because right now the support flows through a narrower-than-the-bolt-holes shaved down 2x10" (to fit between the bolts and washer rings).    

Consider changing to wider lumber in the future- would just need the lumber and longer bolts to go all the way through.

[braindamage]

6 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

I definitely like the idea of a swivel but I feel that the back of the seat will hit the gunnel very quickly unless it is significantly off-set from the center of the base.  As is, my first attempt at a riser is wobbly because the support structure is not as wide as the stock support bolts all the way through the riser.

First attempt: used 3 sizes of lumber to raise : 1.5+1.5+0.5" = 3.5"; seat off-set towards the back of the boat compared to where it at stock- this helps access and proximity to the stereo/hatch lift button cover on the side. See photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/czMBueXRxrvqVas46 ; I considered stacking 2x6s but that was way too high.  This would be more stable if I stacked 2X12" or 2x14" lengths of lumber because right now the support flows through a narrower-than-the-bolt-holes shaved down 2x10" (to fit between the bolts and washer rings).    

Consider changing to wider lumber in the future- would just need the lumber and longer bolts to go all the way through.

I’m not sure the differences between ‘99 and ‘00, but here is a pic of my seat that is offset at the “sweet spot” that allows rotation without hitting anything yet is pretty centered. I was surprised as well at how little it had to move to the center. I’ve had others drive it and they don’t even notice it.

[wakesetterDD]

I replaced my oil pressure sensor switch with an OEM part from a dealer.  I connect the loose brown/white wire.  As soon as I put the key in/turned it to ON the beeping started.  I don't understand why it would do that unless it's because the oil pressure sending unit is bad also.  Waiting for cheap sender from Amazon.

[justgary]

19 minutes ago, wakesetterDD said:

I replaced my oil pressure sensor switch with an OEM part from a dealer.  I connect the loose brown/white wire.  As soon as I put the key in/turned it to ON the beeping started.  I don't understand why it would do that unless it's because the oil pressure sending unit is bad also.  Waiting for cheap sender from Amazon.

What happens if you crank the engine?

[tvano]

44 minutes ago, wakesetterDD said:

I replaced my oil pressure sensor switch with an OEM part from a dealer.  I connect the loose brown/white wire.  As soon as I put the key in/turned it to ON the beeping started.  I don't understand why it would do that unless it's because the oil pressure sending unit is bad also.  Waiting for cheap sender from Amazon.

that is normal.  key on without engine run the oil pressure is zero so that oil pressure switch induces an alert.

[wakesetterDD]

3 hours ago, justgary said:

What happens if you crank the engine?

I guess I'll check and let you know.