1999 Malibu Sunsetter VLX Restoration

[wakesetterDD]

23 minutes ago, hethj7 said:

In Bozboats thread I first linked to he had the cylinders laid out with numbers and others seemed to confirm that was correct.  Check that out.  

Gotcha.  I think I figured it out.  I made the assumption that it would make sense if the numbering started at the front of the engine and since I know that the front of the engine is at the back of the boat (v-drive) cylinder 1 is starboard aft (and then the diagram follows).  This time I put colour-coded tape on each end of the wires.  See diagrams and firing order:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/K4S4KjJz1ocPd1z89

Got the rotor off just by using a larger flathead screwdriver and pushing up on the bottom of the rotor (did not have to break the plastic).  The inside of the rotor was grungy.  The new rotor plastic is smaller but everything else seems to fit fine and the contacts seem to reach the same distance.  Put electrical grease on inside of rotor because it has an electrical contact.

Summary: changed distributor cap, rotor, spark-plugs, wires.  Also put electrical grease on each end of the wires.

[wakesetterDD]

3M Marine Restorer and Wax (1 Step Process; Heavy Oxidation type) worked OK with a polisher machine tonight.    Mostly just focused on green and the colour strips. BEFORE photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/c3yKsQcnNeE5SeYW8   AFTER photos in light tomorrow.

Hull/gel coat/paint needs to be totally redone so it could be better but I'm going to stop here so I don't waste more time and money.

[UWSkier]

There have been a few different stickers on the transom of my '01.  When I got the boat, I could still see ghosts of stickers past.  I hit it hard with Chemical Guys Boat Heavy, then Boat Revive polish on cutting and polishing pads respectively using my Harbor Freight DA polisher.  The finished product is great.

[wakesetterDD]

photos of hull post marine restorer and wax: https://photos.app.goo.gl/c3yKsQcnNeE5SeYW8

Also installed license #s (previous owner had never installed them; NT means Northwest Territories, where the previous owner lived; I am in Alberta (AB) but thought I would keep it because it is rare).

Edited April 17, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[asp13]

I like the small malibu decals at the back of the boat, I want to do something similar to mine which is currently naked. Nice and classy

[wakesetterDD]

The horn actually works (key must be turned to accessory or on)!  Kinda had to push it a few times to 'warm it up.'

The electric hatch lift runs much smoother now (minimal clunking) that I have greased the motor!  Problem re-attaching plate that connects electric lift ram to hatch: the bolts coming from the hatch side just spin (no idea how they are installed) so I can't get nuts tight on them.  This is leading me to my gas strut mod OR waiting and just leaving it loose - I have a work-around that will hold the hatch open when we need it- just need to install a lift strap and keep the broom-stick-like work-around handy.

[wakesetterDD]

Rear hatch fix done:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/5yr9XsMTWJ8QJVYB9 .  Boat has loose bolts sticking out through the hatch but the heads aren't accessible unless you tear off the vinyl, so... it had a two nut setup to tighten the adaptor plate BUT since you can't hold the bolt head it's basically impossible to tighten a nut on.  I had to use a vice grip to remove the nuts and basically stripped the bolts in the process.  So I avoided them by mounting the adaptor plate to a piece of wood and then mounting the wood to the hatch.  The self-tapping screws worked well, especially since the hatch is also made of the same weird metal-weave construction as are the gas tank floor cover and ski locker cover.

Re-installed engine divider panels.  Do not have time or interest in building a frame to prevent them from leaning against engine.

Re-installed swim platform (73lbs).

[braindamage]

On 4/19/2019 at 6:53 PM, wakesetterDD said:

 

The horn actually works (key must be turned to accessory or on)!  Kinda had to push it a few times to 'warm it up.'

 

My horn sounds like my ‘bu is a wounded animal, more like a weak groan than anything. It would definitely not pass the dB test. I carry an air horn on board.

[wakesetterDD]

Started running new stereo wires for a new amp for the 4 in-boat speakers.  Gonna go from 21W RMS on the deck to 50W RMS in the amp (per channel).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G2evDDzDFdofwNZ37 

Edited May 9, 2019 by wakesetterDD
added link

[wakesetterDD]

Used jerry cans to add in about 60L (probably a little less) of ethanol-free premium (91).  Fuel gauge needle did not move.  I think the fuel sender is too far forward and high to measure until the tank is 3/4 full.  I will see when I add more gas.  Tank is 132L.  

Will run up engine later today or tomorrow.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/s1Cv7qQwRAKVLkcL8 

[wakesetterDD]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/s1Cv7qQwRAKVLkcL8 

Added another 60L+ and fill the tank (a bit did over flow so I know it's full).  

60-70L: gauge shows empty

80-90L: gauge shows 1/8 full

100-110L: gauge shows 1/2 full

120-132L: gauge shows 3/4 to FULL (varies)

Therefore: sender bad- ordered new one!  5.5" reed style switch (Amazon).

 

Went thru start-up checks. Connected fake-a-lake.  Started up!!  She runs!  And I got the spark plugs/cap & rotor order correct!  Took a bit to get the water flowing from the fake-a-lake bucket through the hose but eventually there was plenty of water coming out the exhaust!

 

Leaks: drain on engine for hot water shower, heater hose,  under neath both risers- not sure yet.

TIghtened fuel sender screws and eliminated leak.

[Eagleboy99]

Just curious - why premium gas?  Also, I see you Lowrance water/air temp gauge still works.  They don't make those any more.

[wakesetterDD]

8 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

Just curious - why premium gas?  Also, I see you Lowrance water/air temp gauge still works.  They don't make those any more.

Just because it is ethanol free- trying to keep the fuel system very clean.  Can't get 89 (mid grade) (as recommended by indmar) here in Edmonton without up to 10% ethanol.  Also, at the marina where we dock the boat that's all they sell (Shell premium, 91, non-ethanol) so just keeping it consistent.

Ya the gauge kinda works but not all the digits work (not all visible) so... 

[wakesetterDD]

Leak fixes:

• drain on engine for hot water shower: just needed to tighten hose clamp.
• heater hose: not totally sure but tightened the hose clamp on the one further back and it seems to have stopped; the front one might have been leaking through a small part of the hose so I took it off, wrapped it in white teflon tape and then wrapped white electrical tape over that.  Won't know if that works until I put it in the lake because I removed the fake-a-lake.
• under neath both risers- the plastic parts that go into the exhaust manifold or risers are loose.  Loosened them about a half turn (as much as the riser above it allows) and then put on teflon tape and then tightened up and put the hose on.  Seems to work better (reduced the leak).  Either way, it's a small leak.  I ordered a stubby 5/16" allen wrench to fit in the screws that need to be removed from the manifold/riser in order to have room to put all new teflon tape on and screw the plastic piece in better. https://photos.app.goo.gl/s1Cv7qQwRAKVLkcL8 

[wakesetterDD]

Put the boat in the lake last week (Monday May 27th).  Everything is running well except for the front ballast pump.  Leaks a little.  It might have stopped but it still filled the front bag so I didn't attempt to investigate yet because we wanted to SURF!!  And so we did.

I tightened the bolt that holds the raw water pump to the engine frame because having it loose didn't reduce/eliminate the movement on it.

I bought an amp for the 4 in-boat speakers brand new, never used, off kijiji.  Probably got it for 1/2 price!  Can't wait to install it!  Unfortunately weather has been smoky (forest fires North of Edmonton, *praying for rain*) or cool or my wife was road-tripping (I had all 3 kids) so we haven't been out to the lake again yet.

Didn't notice any leaking from heater hose connections this time.

Edited June 4, 2019 by wakesetterDD
missed something

[wakesetterDD]

Got the boat out this week, front ballast still leaking.  Will check out issue next week.  

Got 4-channel amp installed.  It's so loud the kids hate it.  I do have to adjust the gain though because it doesn't really get much volume until the deck volume is very near or maxed out.

Wave is looking awesome.

[wakesetterDD]

Adjusted the gain on the 4 channel amp.  Maybe too much because now I have an odd repeating clicking noise on one speaker; can't hear it when the volume is up.  I will turn the gain down slightly when I'm out next.  Definitely louder tho.  Issue is that is still doesn't really get loud until the volume is already at 4/5 or full.  Not sure why!

Checked the water pump belt- still feeling as tight as when initially installed so that's good.  

Still getting water in the boat but it starts right up and batteries have good voltage when I arrive so I don't think the bilge is running all the time.  We have had a ton of rain in the last 10 days so I'm not yet questioning my hull or any through-hull fittings for the ballast pumps.

Planning on replacing fuel sender when I take the boat out of the lake at the end of July for a trip to another lake for a week.  That way I can drain it out and not lose screws or seals in the water below the gas tank.

[wakesetterDD]

Replaced the fuel sender today.  We ran out of gas last night and got towed in by a kind jet-skier.  My buddies paddled us about 150m (switching sides because I only have 1 paddle) to get the boat on the trailer (gas station is there but was closed and decided to pull the boat back home because taking it on vacation next week anyways- so saved us another trip).

Be careful with the screws for the fuel sender.  I dropped two new ones on the tank which then rolled out of site under the cover and tank.  I wasn't going to pull the whole boat apart again to get them so I just used some old screws.  They don't have nice gaskets/seals on them but I think they will do.

When I fill up the boat I will put the key on and HOPEFULLY see this new fuel sender make the fuel gauge slowly go up as I fill up the boat.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HzRaySAnXHJj31pM8 

Also, see pic of daughter surfing with me!  She loves it!

[wakesetterDD]

Fuel sender working a little better from what I can tell but we're still at least 85% full.  Needle hasn't moved down yet when boat is level.  On my driveway thought it shows like 1/3 tank (driveway slopes down with bow down compared to stern).

[wakesetterDD]

New fuel sender works so much better!  1/8 tank = 30L left ish

[wakesetterDD]

Redid my trailer bunks.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/5Ze6wVWNTmVg1xvw5 

[wakesetterDD]

+8 degrees Celsius today so I re-installed my perfect pass (PP) servo motor and throttle cable.  It started cutting out near the end of last season.  The screen would also cut out last year but I think that's only sometimes due to humidity (boat's always covered when not in use and it rained a lot last year).  I drilled out the rivets holding the PP servo motor to its frame and opened up the servo motor.  Motor looks brand new.  No corrosion inside.  It still doesn't slide super smoothly (when turning the shaft or when the black knob is installed) like I think it should so maybe it has an issue.  PP Mark had me measure the resistance of the resistor on the PP servo motor frame and it measured 6.7ohms (at the plug ends for it-- two red wires going into one two-prong connector).  It's a 6ohm resistor and apparently the each motor phase is 2.5ohms; measuring the red wires would include one motor phase so we're a little low but PP Mark said it should be OK.  Next, once I reconnected the servo motor in the boat, I measured the servo motor cable resistances at the PP module under the dash.  It's a long white connector with metal crimps on the bottom.  I measured 10.8ohms from red to each other colour (motor phase)- white/black/green/brown.  PP Mark said they should measure 8.5ohms.  He responded that the difference shouldn't cause any major issues, unless the motor phases are shorted somehow.  So next I am going to install a battery and see if i can do the auto-tighten test.  I have a feeling that my set screw for the black PP servo motor knob (attaches to the shaft of the servo motor) was loose and maybe, just maybe, it is the cause of this issue.  I'm hoping because that would be a cheap fix (just tighten the knob's set screw). https://photos.app.goo.gl/MpXu9A5UQjGF8HTPA 

I also was reconnecting hoses ("de-winterizing") and felt inside the bottom end of the transmission cooler.  I found some small black parts and grass and sand.  I did have slight engine overheat issues a couple times last year and so I think this junk is the cause.  It would have slowed the cooling of the transmission fluid but the transmission cooler is also a main path for engine cooling water flow.  I was happy to find this but I am not sure where this junk came from.  It looks like the edge of an impeller wing but I have never personally had any impellers break AND I thought I inspected this previously.  Oh well.  Should be good now. https://photos.app.goo.gl/pZugvo8nmK5rKfNL6 

During winterization 2019 as I was pulling off the hoses to the heater core the two copper stems from the core broke as I wiggled the hoses off.  SO that sucks.  I will have to get a new heater core but plan on relocating it closer to the engine.  For the moment I cut one of the hoses and ran it from the engine "heater hose" outlet to the "return" location on the engine so water continues to flow properly.  The heater core was super hard to access under the dash and put all the wires and electronics at risk due to water being so close.  Also, cutting the hose is a good reason to move the heater core closer to the engine- the cut hose will still reach AND the existing heater tube hoses are plenty long. 

Replaced my PCV valve: it's on the port side of the engine between two fuel injectors. It's in a very tight spot BUT the rubber grommet is flexible enough that with the electronic injector pieces removed (just push the metal bracket in and pull on the plastic part) I could force the old PCV out and the new one in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/vA6qLYTt1HXzQ2vn8 

[Eagleboy99]

You are a brave man to summerize a boat in Edmonton now.  You know there is at least one blizzard left in Old Man Winter, right?

 

[UWSkier]

PP servo motor rotation should feel somewhat notchy/sticky. That's normal. 

[wakesetterDD]

6 hours ago, Eagleboy99 said:

You are a brave man to summerize a boat in Edmonton now.  You know there is at least one blizzard left in Old Man Winter, right?

 

Ok, well I didn't run it so it's still dry inside the engine/hoses... yes, I know what you mean!