1999 Malibu Sunsetter VLX Restoration

[braindamage]

35 minutes ago, wakesetterDD said:

Can you see my shared google photos?

Some. Some not. Not sure why?

[wakesetterDD]

After replacing some of the stereo power wire I added the switch for the tower LED light bar into what was the 12V 'cigarette' lighter outlet plug inside the glove box (it wasn't connected to anything).  See photos.  The switch is exactly the right size.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZzHC4QKe3rzMT7Lq5

Also checked for stray currents/shorts with the clip-on ammeter.  Nothing to engine, nothing to controls, nothing between batteries.

Edited March 24, 2019 by wakesetterDD
missed info.

[braindamage]

I see your glove and am reminded of when I rebuilt my ‘00 SSLxi in an old barn during feb-April wearing snow-suits, hats, and gloves!

[ahopkins22LSV]

21 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

Can you see my shared google photos?

Looks like you are making pretty good progress!

Just an FYI, you can upgrade your account on this forum that unlocks quite a few things. One is that you can post pictures and videos directly to this site from your phone or computer. You don't need a third party site to host them. Also, there is a a discounts section that you unlock that may help save you quite a bit of money in your rebuild.

https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/subscriptions/

[wakesetterDD]

Re-installed the tower today.  Added a thin layer of rubber (now two) between tower frame and fiberglass.  Access to bolts that come through from the top/outside is relatively easy on the port side but on the starboard side they are right above the stereo and a ton of wiring so it was difficult.  I had to slide the stereo half way out (couldn't slide it all the way out) to get the washers and nuts on.  Min. 2 man job.

Ran LED bar wire through tower.

Windshield: couple loose screws/heads broken off so I replaced by drilling a new pilot hole in the frame through to the fiberglass (making sure to push the windshield where it needed to be), rod for the mid-windshield hinge was sliding out so I just hammered it back in (held a piece of rubber on the fiberglass so I wouldn't make direct contact), one screw missing- replaced.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/hmMS8KiYPP3CXdH86 

LED Nav light and replacement PERKO two-prong white-light base arrived from Amazon.  Had to drill new holes for the NAV light because the new one is bigger.  The terminals inside the two-pring white light base are sparkling gold/brass so the old ones (black) must have been very bad.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y3Jjcz9R62Wkp6hEA 

Had a feeling I should test my batteries because of the 8V issue I mentioned previously (and that battery would only charge to 70% and stay there for more than a day and never increase).  Turns out it had like 60CCA (should be 600CCA+).  So I bought a new one.  The dead one was a starting battery which for some reason I had connected to my house loads (I think that is how I got it and kept it connected like that last year but I don't really remember).  The other good battery is a starting and deep cycle marine battery.  So at the boat shop the parts guy and I determined I should move the good starting and deep cycle battery to the house loads and connect a new starting battery to the motor.  In the end it might not make a huge difference because the batteries are connected in parallel anyways.  Even with a switch the loads would still probably draw from both batteries unless you stop and hang out and change the switch to the house load battery only... again... I don't know...  Glad I caught that now tho before the boat is on the lake.

Haven't re-installed the batteries yet so no photos of the lights actually working...

Edited March 26, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

On 3/23/2019 at 8:06 PM, braindamage said:

I see your glove and am reminded of when I rebuilt my ‘00 SSLxi in an old barn during feb-April wearing snow-suits, hats, and gloves!

Seriously!  It's cold still!

[wakesetterDD]

The LifeSeal sealant may not be drying/curing properly.  It hasn't been above 10 degrees in the last week since I did it; it feels soft still.  Might have to redo that when the weather is better.  Funny tho because the packaging doesn't say anything about temperature sensitivity.

[BlindSquirrel]

Looks good, keep it up. I did a similar project on my 98.

[wakesetterDD]

Installed new 'hot tube' for heater.  Made sure not to torque the screws too tight; the last guy did and broke the plastic. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WHU6j8ZQhBjqFidf7 

I removed the gas tank floor cover and removed the 6 screws (3 each side) that were holding it up so it was flush with the rest of the floor.  Without the screws it sits much better (more stable) and is only a tiny bit lower than the rest of the floor.  Hope to add some wood 'runners' to the existing L-shaped 'frame' that the cover rests on to raise the cover flush with the floor.  This cover is definitely a DIY replacement for a fiberglass floor that existed previously (this one is made of a weird honey-comb like metal wave core).  It doesn't fit height wise (the previous owner also added SeaDeck to the frame it sits on to try to raise the cover flush with the rest of the floor- it wasn't enough so he added screws), nor is it wide enough (again, previous owner installed SeaDek to narrow the gaps on the edges).  I would like to build a new plywood cover that will fit just right.  I will, actually, but next year. For this year I will just add runners that will add stabliity and at the right height.  Next year I will build a new cover AND be replacing all the flooring with nice new SeaDek/GatorStep.  Also looked at some combinations of wood sizes that when added together would meet the floor height.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/SfofxiK7qt7wuEGr7

I spoke to the parts guys at Martin Motor Sports and they reminded me that when I install gas strut for my engine hatch I will also need a latch to keep it closed so the struts don't open the hatch, especially when going over a roller or bump on the road.  This website seems to be the simplest I've found re: how to add a gas strut: https://www.boatingmag.com/installing-gas-strut-hatch-supports#page-5  Hoping to weigh my hatch later today.  Probably do this project next year though.  1) time running out, 2) cost, 3) I will consider tearing off the vinyl (sad though because it was replaced a couple years ago and is in good shape) and replacing it with SeaDeak for the entire hatch.  I think this will make it fun and safer to jump off of.  My hatch weighs 36 lbs: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5yr9XsMTWJ8QJVYB9 .

I found some cable ties at Canadian Tire (6 for $3 and change) so I will use them to zip tie the sump hose (wire ducts) in place as they come out of the bow into the port storage compartment to meet the batteries and stereo.  Pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZzHC4QKe3rzMT7Lq5 

Edited March 30, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

Relocated hot water shower pump and hose/spray gun.  Now we don't have to lift a seat to use it... and I can store stuff under that one seat (starboard). https://photos.app.goo.gl/U8oJrZ4SscDdhgc46 

The PT 2x4 looks ugly.  I should have cut it but I was planning on using it to secure it to the floor but I ended up being able to screw the carpeted seat base into the PT 2x6 that the pump screws into so it's not going anywhere.

Edited March 31, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

Removed water pump by loosening alternator bolts and pushing it back to loosen and then remove the V-belt (replacing it too- it's in bad shape).  Removed hoses from inlet/outlet.  Loosed hex bolts (5/16") holding the pump to the crankshaft (or whatever it is).  2 of 3 came off after I used a heat gun to warm them up.  The 3rd took forever.  The big issue is that when you put any force on the bolt it just rotates the pump/crankshaft so there's no resistance.  I tried a lot of heat and WD-40 to no avail.  My buddy came over and we put one bolt back in and he held it with one wrench while I pulled on the tight bolt.  After a couple tries it loosened.  Thank goodness!  Used two different color water paints to mark the orientation of the pump assembly AND the shaft that the new one will go back onto.  Should pick up the new pump next week.  The old pump doesn't look too bad but the 'weap hole' (?) was leaking (seals bad- and the pump is soooo old so... just replace and never have to worry again).   https://photos.app.goo.gl/558AxfCwEqvqLjTD7

Also reinstalled the seat base. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WekXxfwQHdNZSWT37

Removed and lubricated the ski pylon. https://photos.app.goo.gl/bcW172XKjpbY3A597

Lubricated the steering cable by the rudder with marine grease (same as buddy bearings).  Basically I put the streeting wheel all the way one direction so the steering cable rod was exposed as much as possible and then added grease and then pulled the steering the opposite direction and back and forth several times.  I couldn't find a grease fitting on the rudder assembly to connect to so I just sprayed WD-40 on the top and hope that it sinks in. https://photos.app.goo.gl/A36h1Tq6knZ1FqnHA

[wakesetterDD]

Added a seat block to port rear seat and re-installed seats. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WekXxfwQHdNZSWT37 

Removed old, torn, and non-continuous fresh air duct (from intake under the dash (both sides) to the engine compartment).  I could put new hose in but I'm not sure how much fresh air they really send to the engine when the ballast bags are full.  They only route from the dash to the back of the seats on either side of the engine so I would say there is minimal air flow directly to the engine.  I guess I need to think of a way to get fresh air to the engine using a similar setup or not.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/znCQHNPz7fCLbr4BA 

[wakesetterDD]

Fire ext. relocation https://photos.app.goo.gl/HCGQvEyxxUY2jKtZ6 

Port cupholder frame fix (loose) https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nze8SzePqgSn3j967  2x4 behind and screw from the 'front'

Edited April 2, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

Last night I replaced the 6-wire cable that was running from the stereo controls area to the passenger compartment that had only 1 wire being used (for the amplifier remote turn on)- what a waste!  I replaced it with one new wire and ran it through the bow in my sump hose conduit.  I removed the driver side panel https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHozvWDsNafaKupN8 and breaker box to do it.  In doing so I learned a couple things and may (but probably not) have killed a battery.

LED lights are polarity sensitive.  Once I had a battery connected to test that the remote turn on was working (it did turn on the amp) I also tested the new NAV light and white light which I installed previously.  The white light (incandescent) worked but the NAV light (LED) did not.  I couldn't understand why so I went back to using some free spade connections in the observer/passenger compartment to wire in an LED cupholder.  Didn't work.  But I still had power to the spade terminals so I switched the cable connections and voila.  So... I thought, that must be why my LED NAV light isn't working.  So that was a pain to re-terminate but I did it and now it does work (but not bright because of this next issue...).

When reconnecting the battery I did graze the negative post  a couple times while ratcheting down the positive nut.  Also, as soon as I slid on the negative ring terminals one of my ballast pumps also turned on (darn kids always pushing buttons and you can't tell the switch is on).  But can a small and extremely brief short (sparks) kill a battery?  Or maybe it went down to 8V because I didn't connect one of the grounds when I should have (I don't think so).  Or this battery was dead like my other one- from being drained several times last summer by the bilge pump constantly running during the week and then (trying to) getting recharged on the weekend (and maybe just being old).  Did anyone else hear my drop another $200 into another battery... gosh!!!).  Disappointing.  I'm betting it's the last reason but man, when you don't know, it kinda bugs you that you might have cost yourself $200.

What are these https://photos.app.goo.gl/4xSeKEoGJRuKUsLK7 spade terminals for in the observer/passenger storage compartment?  They're orange and bigger than the speaker spade terminals so I believe they are stock.  Not sure what would have been connected here.  A blower?  The other thing is that as long as the battery is connected, they have power.  So they're not on any of the dash switches (i.e. unless the connected device had a switch it would drain your battery).

Edited April 4, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[tvano]

a very brief short between the battery terminals will not damage the battery. 

keeping that contact brief can be an issue since the battery will provide sufficient current to actually weld stuff together.

wiring small enough to be used on lighting is going to fuse/melt before doing much battery damage but can cause other issues (fire).

pull the battery from the rig, place it in an open area (where there is no risk of starting a fire) and throw a slow charge on it for a few days then re-evaluate.

[JeffK]

23 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

Last night I replaced the 6-wire cable that was running from the stereo controls area to the passenger compartment that had only 1 wire being used (for the amplifier remote turn on)- what a waste!  I replaced it with one new wire and ran it through the bow in my sump hose conduit.  I removed the driver side panel https://photos.app.goo.gl/dHozvWDsNafaKupN8 and breaker box to do it.  In doing so I learned a couple things and may (but probably not) have killed a battery.

LED lights are polarity sensitive.  Once I had a battery connected to test that the remote turn on was working (it did turn on the amp) I also tested the new NAV light and white light which I installed previously.  The white light (incandescent) worked but the NAV light (LED) did not.  I couldn't understand why so I went back to using some free spade connections in the observer/passenger compartment to wire in an LED cupholder.  Didn't work.  But I still had power to the spade terminals so I switched the cable connections and voila.  So... I thought, that must be why my LED NAV light isn't working.  So that was a pain to re-terminate but I did it and now it does work (but not bright because of this next issue...).

When reconnecting the battery I did graze the negative post  a couple times while ratcheting down the positive nut.  Also, as soon as I slid on the negative ring terminals one of my ballast pumps also turned on (darn kids always pushing buttons and you can't tell the switch is on).  But can a small and extremely brief short (sparks) kill a battery?  Or maybe it went down to 8V because I didn't connect one of the grounds when I should have (I don't think so).  Or this battery was dead like my other one- from being drained several times last summer by the bilge pump constantly running during the week and then (trying to) getting recharged on the weekend (and maybe just being old).  Did anyone else hear my drop another $200 into another battery... gosh!!!).  Disappointing.  I'm betting it's the last reason but man, when you don't know, it kinda bugs you that you might have cost yourself $200.

What are these https://photos.app.goo.gl/4xSeKEoGJRuKUsLK7 spade terminals for in the observer/passenger storage compartment?  They're orange and bigger than the speaker spade terminals so I believe they are stock.  Not sure what would have been connected here.  A blower?  The other thing is that as long as the battery is connected, they have power.  So they're not on any of the dash switches (i.e. unless the connected device had a switch it would drain your battery).

The black and orange leads are likely for a 12v power source (cigarette lighter) for air pumps

[wakesetterDD]

7 hours ago, JeffK said:

The black and orange leads are likely for a 12v power source (cigarette lighter) for air pumps

Oh right!  Duh, I forgot I pulled out the old cigarette lighter plug from the glove box and installed switch for my LED light bar.  I forgot probably because these wires weren't connected to the old cigarette lighter plug anyways.  Thanks, JeffK!

Because there is always power to these wires I added a switch between them and my LED cupholder: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4xSeKEoGJRuKUsLK7 

I installed the switch in the based of the adjacent broken cupholder because any nearby wood paneling is too thick for the length of the switch body with it's screw on fastener on the back.

Edited April 5, 2019 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

After getting info. from West Marine and Martin Motor Sports parts guys, I just bought a new 2nd motor starting battery to parallel with the 1st one.  Basically since I don't have a switch a deep cycle as my 2nd battery won't really act any differently.  I can't switch to the 2nd battery when we stop at a sandbar to listen to tunes so...

If anyone has other opinions, please let me know,

[wakesetterDD]

Installed new water pump.  Had to stick a smaller allen key through the holes to get the pump to sit in the right spot so I could get the other bolts in place.  The struggles of working alone.  Loctite 242 on the bolts so they can be undone by hand.  V-belt also replaced; about 10-12mm slack (hard to pull alternator (with strap) further by myself but still within manual slack (6-13mm)).  https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kx8aKCQ9LyD52HSKA

Knock sensor replaced: https://photos.app.goo.gl/nAzou1U5sp7MMcUT8  Did not have socket large enough to torque (14-16lbs) so I just tightened by hand and then 1 turn with a crescent wrench.  Shouldn't be too tight, definitely won't come out.

Found grease fitting on electric hatch lift- pumped a bunch in.  Not sure how well it worked. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qZKaGpkUDZEYb3WT7 Will test later.

[wakesetterDD]

Used heat gun to push rub rail back in place in about 4 spots: both rear corners, starboard side just behind the nose, and a few spots on the starboard side.

Used heat gun and plastic car audio removal tool to remove ugly 'halfcut racing' character sticker, and stock 'Official U.S. Open Towboats' decal.  There's remnants of an old stick that was installed over top of the Official U.S. Open Towboats sticker.  I used Goo Gone but evidence of all the lettering stickers remains.  I also tried some 3M Marine Cleaner and Wax (Heavy Oxidation) but it did not totally remove evidence of the stickers.  When shining up the area around it the wax did bring the Gel coat back to life and somewhat hides the lettering.  Might need a stronger cutting product.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/c3yKsQcnNeE5SeYW8 

[wakesetterDD]

New cap and rotor (well not yet), wires, spark plugs: https://photos.app.goo.gl/K4S4KjJz1ocPd1z89  Unfortunately my rotor is stuck on.  In reading other forums and other places online it sounds like these get stuck frequently and I just have to break the plastic to get it off... more to come on that note.  Also, I am an idiot and didn't have a proper system for noting where the wires run (from which cylinder to which spot on the cap).  Again, 99 VLX (v-drive); Delco starting system: how are the cylinders numbered front to back, port/startboard and how is that supposed to look on the cap?

More photos from washing the exterior.  Could not remove some weird smudges; also, some of the hull is painted not gel coat so it's hard to get anything out of that. https://photos.app.goo.gl/c3yKsQcnNeE5SeYW8 

 

[hethj7]

I don’t know for sure, but would bet it is just like shown in this thread 

 

[hethj7]

Engine manual link is below  

https://www.themalibucrew.com/_files/engines/indmar_1994_2003.pdf

Below is a screenshot for the firing order 

[wakesetterDD]

5 hours ago, hethj7 said:

Engine manual link is below  

https://www.themalibucrew.com/_files/engines/indmar_1994_2003.pdf

Below is a screenshot for the firing order 

Thanks HethJ7!  Now I can't figure out which cylinder is #1 etc. Any idea for that? I am also not clear because diagrams don't tell which way to look at the engine, especially since it's a v drive so technically the front of the engine is at the back of the boat and the distributor cap is at the back of the engine.

 

[hethj7]

In Bozboats thread I first linked to he had the cylinders laid out with numbers and others seemed to confirm that was correct.  Check that out.