1999 Malibu Sunsetter VLX Restoration

[wakesetterDD]

3 hours ago, tvano said:

that is normal.  key on without engine run the oil pressure is zero so that oil pressure switch induces an alert.

oh ok, I guess I'll check by doing my fake-a-lake and let you know. Thanks!

[justgary]

1 hour ago, wakesetterDD said:

oh ok, I guess I'll check by doing my fake-a-lake and let you know. Thanks!

Yeah, that part of crank the engine.  

[wakesetterDD]

Tonight I managed to pull the heater hoses out.  I cut as many zip ties as I could reach under the engine and beside the v-drive and then pulled from the ski locker.  There was a zip tie or two that I would have pulled through from under the gas tank cover (the hoses run beside the gas tank). Those hoses were so grimy!  once out I massaged dish soap all over them and coiled them in a bucket of water.  Left for an hour.  Came back and cleaned off the grime with cloth rags.  They seem good as new.  Hopefully the dish soap comes off and doesn't dry the hose rubber out.

Now I can use the old hose on a new heater... if I decide to spend all that cash-0-la.  Still not sure where to install it.  One photo of hoses post extraction and cleaning: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WHU6j8ZQhBjqFidf7

Also spent some time trouble shooting my front ballast pump.  I used a hose dipped into a bucket full of water as the "lake" source.  It took a bit to figure out how to prime the pump- either I needed more water in the bucket or it helped to force the garden hose right into the end of the hose.  It ran just fine.  The only thing I did was ensure my impeller vains were turned clockwise and there is a rubber seal which I just moved from along the shaft to directly against the impeller housing.  It may have drifted back somehow (I can't see how it would stop water from coming out tho and I also don't think that's its purpose).  No leak, seems to work fine.  Hose isn't leaking either.  I guess I will keep an eye on it.  I thought it was leaking behind the impeller housing.  Maybe I just had a loose hose connection.  I know I hesitated previously, to tighten the hose too much in fear of cracking it, but since the hose doesn't fit super tight over the impeller outlet/inlet, the hose clamp probably does need to be quite tight.  https://photos.app.goo.gl/dQws51Nivkp6pbPu8 

[wakesetterDD]

Finally completed oil change (@ 729hrs).  Took out about 4L of oil (so maybe the engine could have used a top up); 3L through the dipstick tube via fluid extractor (suction) and the rest by draining the oil pan (let sit over night after initial gush).  The oil drain pan nut is likely 5/8" since it is labelled as such BUT it is a little worn down so a 15mm wrench worked best.

Put 4 quarts (4 jugs) of new oil in (15W40).  Ran engine.  Oil level not showing on dip stick.  Added 1 more quart.  Ran engine.  Let cool.  Dipstick read just above fill line (so barely in the "OK" zone).  I'm happy with the result but once it's on the water I will check it again and top it up as needed; I have some oil left over from last years V-drive oil change- same oil! 

Needed to get an old oil filter removal tool to get filter off.  It's a cap that fits on the bottom of the filter; the cap has a nut with a gap in the middle so you can either use a wrench on the outside of the nut or put a 1/2" wratchet in the gap.  I used my wratchet.  New filter went on easy by hand and then half-turn tight with the tool.  The taller, larger filter is cheaper (from dealer) but it sits right next to my steering cable so if it wasn't for the filter removal tool, I would have never been able to get my hands in a good position to strongly turn the filter.  So will I get the big filter again... probably since I have the tool.

Next time: get correct fluid extractor hose for dipstick tube (long enough and one that won't break) and/or get slim oil pan with drain (2" or less to fit between engine oil pan and hull)- connect drain to a hose to drain out hull through T-handle hole and into empty container.  Could pump out of the oil drain pan also using the extractor if there is concern of the oil over filling the oil drain pan despite the drain and hose setup.

 

 

Edited May 15, 2020 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

Bought a two outlet heater; a dealer had one without all the kit stuff like hoses and hose clamps, switches, wiring, etc.  It fits in the port gunnel between the hull and the wood frame for the seats, just aft (behind) the port cupholders!! So I won't lose storage under the port seats!  I've started to route the solid copper wiring (with sheath- this is house wiring) to the dash through the floor and the ski locker (will keep it high with zip ties).  I'm only going to wire for high fan speed.    The hot water hose length should be about half of what it was going to the dash so hopefully it will crank out better heat!  I am running the hoses from the engine aft to the stern then on the floor/wall edge on the port side towards the front of the boat (but basically only within the engine compartment) until they meet the heater core.

Can't wait to finish and see it working on the boat.

New, a heater core was going to cost $400 CAD plus taxes and duties directly from HeaterCraft and $600 plus tax from any dealer I spoke to.  I got this for less :-) 

[wakesetterDD]

I discovered in wiring the heater that it requires red and orange wires (at least on my boat) to get the full high speed.  I have a yellow wire on the plug from my dash (or somewhere) but it never has power to it.  So I spliced into my old plug (cut it off the fan) and now I have a two speed fan.  I stuffed the hot tube in the gunnel so it comes out where the cupholders are.  I figure that will work because nobody uses the cup holders.  I need some more vent hose and then I will run hose from the 2nd outlet to a cup holder and re-use just a open/close vent in the cup holder hole as a 2nd heat source.

[wakesetterDD]

The other day I removed all of the snap screws for the old snap-on cover (I don't even have it).  I filled the holes with LifeSeal by pushing the tube right against the hull and squeezing the sealant into the holes.  This should work to keep water out and save my knees from frequent painful encounters with the screws.  After a couple warm days (haha 20 degrees Celsius) the LifeSeal seems to be curing well.

*Hoping* the boat can still be wrapped OK despite some spill over... if I do get a boat wrap down the road.  

[braindamage]

On 5/13/2020 at 9:57 PM, wakesetterDD said:

stuffed the hot tube in the gunnel so it comes out where the cupholders are.  I figure that will work because nobody uses the cup holders. 

This will change. I’d find another route

[Coonlaker]

Hey, I bought a 1999 sunsetter vlx converted with 3 point ballast added.   Does anyone know what hull I have ? Can I add the plate?

[wakesetterDD]

Took the boat to the lake the other day; first test run went really well.  Just a couple small ballast leaks.

Tested the boat with the mission delta surf tab under the following conditions, me or wife driving and two kids in the boat.:

• no ballast (did not try to surf but maybe a kid could)
• 2000lbs ballast (surfed great- pretty tall wave)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nQ6anu66QQ4NKeFQ7

 

I also tried taking apart my old raw water pump to see if I could replace the seals or repack the bearings and then sell it.  I used a wheel puller.   I got the drive shaft out but the bearings are still stuck on.  Now sure how to get them off.  I tried the wheel puller but no luck yet. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZLVPTytEyuLVDG4aA 

[drh]

26 minutes ago, wakesetterDD said:

 

I also tried taking apart my old raw water pump to see if I could replace the seals or repack the bearings and then sell it.  I used a wheel puller.   I got the drive shaft out but the bearings are still stuck on.  Now sure how to get them off.  I tried the wheel puller but no luck yet. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZLVPTytEyuLVDG4aA 

Here's a link for rebuild instructions:

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/attachment.php?attachmentid=8512&d=1143811308

Looks like they recommend a combo of bearing separator tool and jaw puller.

[justgary]

Are the bearings bad?  They look cruddy, but they may be ok.  The seal is simple to change with the shaft out. 

Keep the pump as a spare. 

[UWSkier]

8 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

Took the boat to the lake the other day; first test run went really well.  Just a couple small ballast leaks.

Tested the boat with the mission delta surf tab under the following conditions, me or wife driving and two kids in the boat.:

• no ballast (did not try to surf but maybe a kid could)
• 2000lbs ballast (surfed great- pretty tall wave)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/nQ6anu66QQ4NKeFQ7

 

I also tried taking apart my old raw water pump to see if I could replace the seals or repack the bearings and then sell it.  I used a wheel puller.   I got the drive shaft out but the bearings are still stuck on.  Now sure how to get them off.  I tried the wheel puller but no luck yet. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZLVPTytEyuLVDG4aA 

Those look pretty grungy.

BTW, did you upgrade your alternator and bracket or did the previous owner?  Those are not original parts and have the improved units.

[Eagleboy99]

2 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Those look pretty grungy.

Time for a group buy on bilge cleaner?

[wakesetterDD]

I might attempt to fix my surge brakes.  Right now there is not safety cable and no brake lines.  Will find out condition of master cylinder, rotors, etc.

 

Ron is the man.  Thanks, Ron.

 

[wakesetterDD]

22 hours ago, UWSkier said:

Those look pretty grungy.

BTW, did you upgrade your alternator and bracket or did the previous owner?  Those are not original parts and have the improved units.

I think the previous owner may have upgraded the alternator, yes.  Especially since he had a couple of amps and tower speakers.

Edited May 28, 2020 by wakesetterDD

[wakesetterDD]

OK, so I got my drum brakes off.  Wow, the bolts holding the backing plate to the trailer frame were insanely rusted.  It's a miracle my father-in-law stopped by and that we were able to get them off.

I can't get the actuator out; one of the big pins won't go all the way out, even with lots of persuasion.  I think I need a bigger persuader... it's as if the larger flange at each end won't go past the slot for it in the actuator inside the trailer frame... any advice?   https://photos.app.goo.gl/4virujfsDpug6XQWA 

The pin closest to the boat popped out pretty easy once the snap clips were removed. 

Edited May 29, 2020 by wakesetterDD

[asnowman]

you are probably going to have to grind one end of the other pin off.  The trailer for my 2011 needed the actuator replaced.  I bought a whole new actuator, as that was a quicker and easier repair for me to deal with.  After adding up the parts i was going to need to replace, and the time it would take to fix it all, i ordered a whole new actuator coupler.  The new coupler came with new pins, so pretty easy swap out.

 

[wakesetterDD]

Tightened some bolts on the trailer: bunks and leaf springs u-shaped connectors to the axles.  

New surge brake actuator should arrive tomorrow from ShadowTrailers; brake cables on their way from skiboatpartsonline.com (Louisiana).

Oil pressure sensor switch is working properly- only peeps when key turned on but engine not running yet.

Surf wave two days ago was amazing.  Can't wait for another warm day!

Hot water show is not spitting out water with any kind of pressure.  Not sure why.

[UWSkier]

2 hours ago, wakesetterDD said:

Tightened some bolts on the trailer: bunks and leaf springs u-shaped connectors to the axles.  

New surge brake actuator should arrive tomorrow from ShadowTrailers; brake cables on their way from skiboatpartsonline.com (Louisiana).

Oil pressure sensor switch is working properly- only peeps when key turned on but engine not running yet.

Surf wave two days ago was amazing.  Can't wait for another warm day!

Hot water show is not spitting out water with any kind of pressure.  Not sure why.

Check for "gunk" at the pickup point.  Lots of times rust flakes will get in the way and impede water flow.  Could also be jamming up in the pump.  Showers are more trouble than they're worth IMO.

[tvano]

The mixer valve set has screens buried in it. Remove, clean, replace.

I've yanked those hard to clean screens.

Installed new screened garden hose washers at the pick- up points.

[wakesetterDD]

Surge brake update: https://photos.app.goo.gl/4virujfsDpug6XQWA

After I removed the snap-ring clips with snap-ring pliers, I removed the actuator slide pins - had to cut one side of the front one with a hack saw because the ends were so badly mushroomed- couldn't slide/force it out otherwise.  Removal of the UFP actuator was then super easy.

Used DOT3 brake fluid: less than one 1-quart bottle.

Routed the brake cables slightly differently than suggested by the brake kit manufacturer because I was short on cable length in the recommended orientation.  Rather than have the ends of a 2nd T-connection feed each wheel thru another T with a block nut, I have a T feeding one wheel with a shorter hose and then another short hose feeds the longer hose thru a T with a block nut; this longer hose goes across the axle all the way to the other tire.  I also had to create a small loop at the front to get the hose up into the actuator because the actuator connection comes straight out the back but the trailer frame gets in the way of bringing the hose up to it ahead of the actuator.  From the back the cable loops back on itself but inside the trailer frame and then forward to meet the actuator.  I have spare flex in each hose that connects to a tire brake.

Bleeding process - kind of as per Ron Tanis' video but I couldn't hear any whisps of air coming out of the bleeder valves at the brakes after the brake was compressed using the boat winch; I just opened the valve after the surge brake was forced back and then closed it soon thereafter; basically my helpers at the front would watch the reservoir level go down as I opened the valve and tell me to close it before it got even close to being empty; once closed, they would pull the brake forward, and then repeat the process until we had fluid pouring nicely out of the bleeder valves on the closest brake, then moved to the far brake.

I then put the rear axle on jacks and spun the wheels and used the boat winch again to activate the surge brake.  The brake stopped the wheels pretty early in its motion (no real load of course) and also released them as soon as the boat winch was released.

Then we took it out for a road test and I could immediately tell there was a huge difference in my stopping power.

We also tested the Brake Actuator lock-out cap which seems to work.  The brake would not engage when moving forward and then braking with it in place, and backing up it seemed to also not engage although the hill we were on probably didn't help. 

Stoked!

[wakesetterDD]

Just got me a CrewChief subscription.  Can't wait for the TMC T!

[wakesetterDD]

Slight oil leak discovered on the weekend; drained then wiped down the inside hull bottom and then ran engine on fake-a-lake.  Discovered oil pressure sensor switch leaking slowly.  Oil level was still OK but after tightening the oil pressure sensor switch there is no leak- great!  Oil topped up.

[wakesetterDD]

My boat seat riser broke over the weekend.  Two pieces of lumber I had screwed together just completely ripped apart from each other.

Fixed it by getting the right size of lumber (2x12) so it's supported as wide as the track.  It's very solid now.