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Adding extra ballast in rear locker


Fish209

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I just got a 2009 Wakesetter VLX and was planning on adding WakeMakers piggyback ballast upgrade system to the rear lockers. I just noticed a warning sticker in the rear locker saying that the rear locker area is not intended for ballast and not to exceed 75 pounds in the space.

 

Adding extra ballast in the rear lockers is a very common thing for people on these forums so I assume I can safely ignore this warning? Just wanted to double check it is okay to add 910 pound piggyback ballast bags in each rear locker on my (new to me) 2009 VLX.

 

Thanks!

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Instead of the piggyback system, you may want to look at adding 2 reversible pumps back there and maybe even a third for up in the bow.  The reversible pumps will fill and drain a lot faster.  The install really isn't that bad.

Running the 910's back in the rear, you will need at least a 600# sac in the bow too.

Here's my install thread:

 

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Thanks jwl019! I have been getting several people mention the reversible pumps would be a much better option. I already have the piggyback system from Wakemakers, but I'm starting to second guess install it. I'm just concerned with the cost of the reversible system and the more difficult installation.

 

 

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I run 2 reversibles on my ‘10, a 750/1100 and have never regretted the cost. Run the pb system for a summer like@jwl019 suggests and go from there. With the availability of the pre assembled electrical switches installing a reversible is pretty much a no brained any more. Yeh drilling a hole(s) can get a little scary, but there are enough of us on here that have already been there and done that, that you have a wealth of info and experience to draw from. I would bet good money you are going to get tired of the fill times real quick. Good luck and may global warming bring us boating season sooner. 😁 

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Ok, you guys have officially convinced me to seriously consider just going with a reversible system right now and just do it right from the beginning.

 

So, that leads me to my next question. What reversible system would you suggest? I do want to make sure once everything is installed and set up, I want the use of the system to be very easy. I want to make sure I just control the ballast from my current controls at my dash. I've attached a pic of my dash (sorry, not great quality. Maliview screen in the middle) and the current controls for ballast (the right side of dash).

 

Right now, my 2009 VLX only has the factory hard tanks. That's why I wanted to add some ballast to the rear lockers. If I add extra weight to the rear, I have been told I will also need to add weight in the bow.

 

If you were me and not very handy, but want the end result to be a great surf wave and easy to use system, what would you go with (for the rear and bow)? Installation and cost is a factor, but not a deal breaker if that's what I "need". I'd rather spend a little more now and do it right, then install something I won't be happy with and need to do it right down the road.

 

THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!

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You need 2 or 3 of these kits.  Wakemakers calls the kits zones so you need 2 or 3 zones. 2 for rear and if you want to run a bow sac, get the third for the bow.  I bought mine during the Black Friday sale so the bigger discount helped, but if you are a paid member then you get a little discount.

https://www.wakemakers.com/wakemakers-complete-reversible-ballast-system.html

This kit looks handy too:

https://www.wakemakers.com/premium-reversible-ballast-system-installation-tool-kit.html

You definitely need the magnets and hole saws.

You will have to add 3 switches somewhere (think in my install thread I posted pics but it was around knee high under the throttle area). Ballast kits come with plain switches, but these are nicer:

https://www.wakemakers.com/ballast-switch-cover-upgrade-package.html

This is optional but cleans up your wire runs to the battery switch:

https://www.wakemakers.com/blue-sea-6-circuit-power-distribution-block.html

I don't remember what size awg wire I used from the distro block to the battery, but it mentions it in my install thread. I had to have help to size it.

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The WM kit will simplify things greatly as will the switch covers. I didn’t use the disto block as it wasn’t available when I originally installed my set up, but I would of if it was available. The hole saws and other tools are a pretty good price and can be used for other projects after the install. I was already set for tools. You can piece together the minimum stuff you need for the second pump from WM with out going the full $499.99. For the install my front pump and bag is behind the sub on the bulk head and the pick up was installed in the existing brass front bilge “T” handle drain plug location. I removed the stock brass female fitting and screwed in the new brass female assembly, so one less hole to drill. You can see the rear pump is in the photo when I was running a Y valve set up for 2 bags. That was a waste of money IME. The SS switch plate is from an old grill door I had and it has been surprisingly rust resistant. Good luck. Bill

Edited by wdr
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OMG...THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH!!! Great info...especially the links and pictures to show me exactly what you're referring to.

 

If I went with the WakeMakers 3 zone system from that link, I'm looking at between $1600-$1900 depending on which pump I choose. And that doesn't even include the ballast bags? Then I'll have installation which I'm sure will at least be another few hundred. That's IF I can find somewhere by me that will/can do it to where it looks clean and professional. That's going to be more pricey than I was anticipating.

 

Man...I've got some thinking to do :)

 

PS: wdr...wow, your engine compartment is super CLEAN!!!!

Edited by Fish209
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36 minutes ago, Fish209 said:

OMG...THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH!!! Great info...especially the links and pictures to show me exactly what you're referring to.

 

If I went with the WakeMakers 3 zone system from that link, I'm looking at between $1600-$1900 depending on which pump I choose. And that doesn't even include the ballast bags? Then I'll have installation which I'm sure will at least be another few hundred. That's IF I can find somewhere by me that will/can do it to where it looks clean and professional. That's going to be more pricey than I was anticipating.

 

Man...I've got some thinking to do :)

 

PS: wdr...wow, your engine compartment is super CLEAN!!!!

Thanks, that was @ 300 hours. Still looks the same at 1000 hours.

  • Like 2
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Before I forget. The extra ballast set up will be the 90% solution for a great wave on these model year boats w/o Surf gates. Unfortunately, “in my opinion and in my experience with my boat”  if I wanted to maximize the potential of the boat I had to make a wake shaping device like the Mission Delta to attach to the side of the boat. The suck gate as most call it, creates the delayed convergence like the Surf gate to give you the best wave possible. My gate allows me to run the boat more or less evenly listed and more importantly takes away the need to pile everyone up on the surf side to create more list to get a better wave and I don’t have to worry about people moving around messing up the wave while we are surfing. Your VLX may react differently to weight shifts than my LSV, but I doubt it. I made my own out of HDPE (King starboard) and a Amazon window glass suction handle. There are a lot of options out there. Now aren’t you glad you got into surfing? :whistle:

Edited by wdr
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Fish. 

Ok haven’t seen this posted yet. Check out this thread as well. This is where I got the inspiration for my install. 

I just noticed his new thread. You might also check it out for pointers. 

 

Edited by Sparky450
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