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granddaddy55

2 battery 1,2,all perko switch and audio and RGB power

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granddaddy55

If I put all grounds, power, fuses for sources , Amps, RGB controllers and lights on battery 2, is that the way to run party cove on one battery when switching to the 1 setting at perko  to protect battery 1?

then back on ALL or leave on setting 1 on perko to start motor and surf or ride or drive (I can always run ALL at tie up or beach if lights, amps and sources are too much for battery 2 if it runs down some and after some small time at ALL setting , start motor and recharge it  )

I never lose my stereo if perko switch is on 2, 1, or ALL , right ,  if everything is powered and grounded to batt 2 only?  I’m just not charging battery 2 if perko set to 1 but I’m protecting battery 1 as my starting battery ?

And if on selector 2 at switch, I can’t run down battery 1 but I could start and charge 2

my only source of knowledge or experience on this  when I hooked up battery charger to either battery 1 or 2 with selector to ALL it charged both at same time verified by meter

is this the right way to go to best completely isolate noise in system to not even encounter the dash switch and ignition interference/noise that I think runs off battery 1 I think?

Relocating my RGB controllers that we thought we were slick mounting to big board near source cables, duh, so of course I have noise from lights (didn’t understand warning instruction number number one vaguely referring to a staying away from “magnetic field” interference to mean don’t go locate with source cables).

Had to ask Robert at WS recently is that what they mean by magnetic field , couldn’t they have just printed “source cables “ in red like the other 7 red warnings 

Moving/securing to opposite corner from amp board in coffin storage after testing  free hand the new placement, thinking about drilling from inside to out in glove box and putting them in black fiberglass front surfacesof glove in coffin that is the front wall of glove box, nothing will hit them there going in and out of coffin

Edited by granddaddy55

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MLA
5 hours ago, granddaddy55 said:

If I put all grounds, power, fuses for sources , Amps, RGB controllers and lights on battery 2, is that the way to run party cove

I dont like wiring direct to battery, circumventing the switch. With a manual 1/2/BOTH switch, you always have the ability to isolate one bank for cranking engine. But when you put the boat away, OFF means off. 

Unwanted noise from the LEDs is likely bleeding into the speaker leads. You may notice its only one curtain colors. This is due to the PWM rate of the controller used to make some non-primary colors. 

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granddaddy55
On 12/15/2018 at 8:30 AM, MLA said:

I dont like wiring direct to battery, circumventing the switch. With a manual 1/2/BOTH switch, you always have the ability to isolate one bank for cranking engine. But when you put the boat away, OFF means off. 

1st, do I have it right in my question about what happens when I select each setting and what I am accomplishing ? Please tell me that

Yes I understand what I’m doing in that stereo and light components will still play or draw if “off” is selected and any of the switches are on.  I am trying to get completely off dash fir power or ground because every single pump, surfgate switch, cruise control or other when switched can and has caused noise or  stop the blue tooth play command order from BT rocker switch and stop music( that happens every single time we start motor with ignition switch cause we borrowed grounds from dash——-even the lights in the EQ flash when source units are powered off!!!!! at its power accessory switch when we switch the pumps or other on or off ), just moving the grounds to new ground block on amp board did not fix noise , we don’t have time or opportunity to keep running this down one  ground or power source at one time  , I need to get this isolated from non RGB interference once and for all (I’m depending on someone else who cant just keep coming over and I have no chance of fixing this on my own!!! But this is his 1st marine install and it included RGB non sense)

Unwanted noise from the LEDs is likely bleeding into the speaker leads. You may notice its only one curtain colors. This is due to the PWM rate of the controller used to make some non-primary colors. 

Are you now telling me that beyond source noise from RCA’s( that Wetsounds is now finally telling us that’s what warning instruction number 1 on controller about magnetic field meant) that I can’t co locate speaker and light wires either???? That’s everywhere in boat and Wetsounds 6 pair wire would be useless .   Robert Reed at Wetsounds is telling me it’s the controller co located with source cables and that I need a minimum distance that I can check by holding controller in hand away from amp board in my coffin 

My thoughts were since ignition and dash are primarily wired to batt 1 , that if all isolated on battery 2 I could avoid all possible interference/conflicts or am I wrong in that if I’m running in switch position ALL it will interfere anyway ?

sorry for silly questions but this is my first ever car or marine stereo and my buddies first ever marine install and we added RGB to really complicate it

Edited by granddaddy55

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MLA
1 minute ago, granddaddy55 said:

since ignition and dash are primarily wired to batt 1

They should not be as this again, circumvents the switch. Everything but the auto bilge, needs to go through the switch. The switch will allow you to use which ever battery you want, when you want, and isolate the other in reserve, when you want. When you bypass the switch, you lose that control. 

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Nitrousbird

Just gets a Blue Sea Add-A-Battery setup and wire it per @shawndoggy wiring diagram.  Then no deal with flipping switches or worrying about it.  It's $100 well spent.

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