2018 22VLX integrated bow ballast install

[Brett B]

With over 23k views the thread I made for my 2012 VLX integrated ballast install seems to have been a big hit, so I figured I would make an updated one for my new boat. 

 

 

I have a few lessons learned from the 2012 install that I tried to improve upon for my 2018 install:

1.    Installing the bow bag reversible ballast pump behind the subwoofer was a good use of space, but it was a pain to install it there and difficult to service the impeller since you had to remove the sub box each time. 
2.    Running the hose for the front pump through the stringer area worked ok but was also a bit of a pain that required quite a lot of interior disassembly, so I wanted to avoid that this time if possible.
3.    The reversible pumps are so powerful that it’s not nearly as important to keep them in close proximity to the bag as I had initially thought. 
4.    Using the center T-handle for the bow ballast eliminated the need for drilling holes through the hull, but then you can’t use that T-handle for your bilge drain. I eventually got tired of removing the butt-plug each time. If you have a boat that sits on a lift the center drain is typically the lowest point making the butt-plug an ineffective drain anyway. 
5.    There are many unused factory circuit breaker spots that simplify the power wiring compared with using regular blade style fuses. 
6.    The factory rear plug-n-play performs pretty well now, so I elected to use that system for the rear bags and install the reversible pump for just the bow bag. 

So based on those lessons learned I decided to install the reversible pump for the bow bag under the port side rear seat next to the transmission area. My 2012 had a factory installed T-handle next to the transmission, I was surprised to see that my 2018 DID NOT have a T-handle here. My dealer was able to easily install it for me while I had the boat there for the 10-hour service, saving me the trouble. After they installed the fitting I added a stainless shut off ball-valve using the 3M 4000 marine sealant on the threads.

 

The hose from the ball valve was routed through the corner of the seat base/trans divider to the ballast pump. For the hose to fit I had to open up the hole in the seat base a bit. 

The pump is screwed directly to the floor using the included rubber insulating grommets. I then routed the hose along the port side seat base all the way to the bow. Overall this install method saved me many hours of work compared to how I installed the 2012 bow ballast pump. I can easily access the pump to service the impeller now, and the extra space also allowed me to use the larger Jabsco Ballast King which flows 960 GPH compared to the Johnson ballast pump at 720 GPH. 

 

For the electrical side I decided to use the factory breaker panel. There is a heavy gauge bus bar and several un-used breakers for the positive side. I removed the 10A breaker for the shower and replaced it with a 30A breaker with a white button so that it was easy to ID. I had to buy several different breakers to find the one that fit the best. I had to modify one of the terminal tabs on this breaker so that it would screw into the bus bar just like the original as I wasn’t able to find one that was an exact fit part that just dropped in. Even with the small customization it worked very well. The negative from the switch was run to an open terminal lug on the common ground bus bar under the dash. 

 

The Jabsco Ballast King came with a pre-wired rocker switch making the wiring side very straight forward. The only challenge was locating the right wire to run to the pump. Wakemakers only sells 12 AWG wire. This is ok for the Johnson pumps but the Ballast King can pull 19A during steady state and much more on startup. That’s too much for 12 AWG when you factor in total wire run length so I used 10 AWG wire instead to make sure the pump performed as intended. I ended up finding high quality marine wire at a reasonable price on Amazon. I ran the wire down the starboard gunnel without removing any of the trim panels and then over to the pump, securing it out of sight with zip ties as I went. I sleeved the power wires at the pump with wire loom and secured them out of the way to make sure they don't get snagged.  

I used an Xacto knife and dremel to carefully cut out the switch mounting spot in the factory vinyl/plastic trim right next to the breaker panel. If you take your time it’s pretty easy to make it fit properly so that it looks nice once completed. 

 

Below is the parts list. 

From Wakemakers:
JABSCO BALLAST KING REVERSIBLE PUMP W/ ROCKER SWITCH, Item #: S10372, Quantity: 1
WakeMAKERS Ballast Hose - Black, Item #: 31001-100, Quantity: 30, Size: 1"
Fly High Pro X Series Open Bow Sac (1000 lbs), Item #: 11006-gry, Quantity: 1
Stainless Steel Hose Clamp, Item #: 31003-100, Quantity: 6, Size: 1”
Fly High 1" Flow Rite Quick Release Connect W743, Item #: 33043, Quantity: 1
WakeMAKERS Flow Rite 1" & 1-1/8" Barbed Elbow Quick Release Connector W746, Item #: 33046, Quantity: 1
WakeMAKERS Threaded Hose Barb Connector, Item #: 32012-340-100, Quantity: 1, threadsize: 3/4", hosesize: 1"
3M 4000 MARINE ADHESIVE, Item #: 37003, Quantity: 1

Circuit breaker from Mouser Electronics:

Part # CLB-303-27E3N-W-A/30

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Carling-Technologies/CLB-303-27E3N-W-A-30?qs=2FIyTMJ0hNmWwacvAfxFTw%3D%3D

 

10 AWG flat duplex marine wire, 25 feet, from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUYAIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Stainless marine grade cushion clamps from Amazon, size 1.25":

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1FXA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Plus an assortment of stainless steel screws of various lengths from the hardware store. I believe the stainless ball valve came from Bakes but I can’t find my order confirmation nor can I find it on their website now. 

 

So how does it work? It works great! This pump is very fast. It fills the 1000lb bow triangle faster than the rear 770 plug-n-play bags, and it drains much faster than the rear bags. It’s also quieter than my last install with it being located under the rear seat instead of behind the sub. Overall this was a great way to get some extra ballast plumbed in while requiring substantially less labor time than my 2012 install.

So that’s it. Hopefully the crew members found this to be helpful. 
 

Edited December 12, 2018 by Brett B

[Chrisjjbrown]

Nice work Brett,    But I hate to point out in order to service your impeller now it looks like you will have to remove the pump from the floor.   I would have mounted that so you have enough space to get a screw driver to the bottom of the pump and get a new impeller In there 

Edited December 12, 2018 by Chrisjjbrown

[MLA]

6 minutes ago, Chrisjjbrown said:

But I hate to point out in order to service your impeller now it looks like you will have to remove the pump from the floor

Remove the 2 screws on one side and the base pops off the other 2 rubber feet. Rotate pump, remove impeller cover. Easy.

[Chrisjjbrown]

12 minutes ago, MLA said:

Remove the 2 screws on one side and the base pops off the other 2 rubber feet. Rotate pump, remove impeller cover. Easy.

 That's my point an extra step,   You are also assuming he has enough slack in his ballast line to do that,  looks fairly tight to me..... so now you have to remove line to rotate pump...why not just leave enough space when you mount it....stupid thought I guess. 

Kinda like this...

 

 

 

Edited December 12, 2018 by Chrisjjbrown

[MLA]

Given the layout of that under corner seat area, I like where he mounted the pump. Moving it aft, gets it butting into the sac. Rotated 180# has the outlet hose looping out into open locker space. I prefer to have plumbing and electrical tucked away if I can. Should not need to service that impeller for about 4 years. 

[Brett B]

It's exceedingly easy to unbolt the pump from the floor to get to the impeller, and yes there is adequate slack, so no hose removal required. Considering the pumps now come with the longer life silicone impellers it will probably be 2-3 years before I need to touch it. I'd rather have the hose routed unobtrusively with the pump taking up minimal useful storage space, and then unbolt the pump as needed once every few years, compared to the inverse option.  Neither of the options you posted in those last 2 pictures would work because the plug-n-play interface plumbing and custom fit 770lb ballast bag (once full) take up that space. Those hoses would also be partially blocking the deeper floor storage areas on the port side found in the newer boats. 

Edited December 12, 2018 by Brett B

[dcarl]

Nice professional looking install. The pictures and descriptions will really help when I attempt this.

Thanks for the post

[Slayer]

Nice work, @Brett B!  Well done. 

[Natemeins]

Hey @Brett B great write-up! I decided to do this to my '17 23LSV, but using the center bilge "T" handle port and mounting the pump (NEW Jabsco Ballast King) behind the sub. I know it may not be the best location for ease of access, but I wanted to keep all the components as local as I could, and the location you used I keep a small toolbox there. I am running into a problem that maybe you or someone can point out for me: The first time I used it I used a 155lb bag in the bow (along with my girls). Fully filled, worked great. Over time (about 10 minutes or so) the bag was noticeably depleted. Ran the pump for about 10 seconds to refill. This went on the entire time. So my question is, did you run an anti-siphon valve to prevent this leakdown? I was under the assumption that reversible pumps effectively locked out any flow when not running, and if this is true is it possible my NEW pump's vane is leaking and needs a replacement? Prior to install I did remove the pump cover to verify the impeller was in good condition and was lubed and ready to go. I love this setup in that I don't have to pull out the portable pump and it all tucks away nicely, but this leak down is no bueno. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Full disclosure, I'm running a ball valve from my "T" handle port in the center bilge, 1" hose following under deck to driver's helm where pump is located, then following starboard side hull directly to bow area behind the starboard interior panel and to a quik release fitting directly to the bag. No extra loops or any sort. Thanks for the help./