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Vroom

Wetsounds Revo XXX sub enclosure

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Vroom

Hey folks, forgive me if this has already been discussed but I couldn't find much info on the XXX  V4 sub (or any XXX version). I purchased 4 Rev10s and the sub, powering the 4 towers with a syn dx2.3hp and another, identical amp, for the sub. I thought this would be easy peazy but I can't find squat about this sub, particularly with regards to speaker box design,which is what I'm currently working on. 

Wetsounds has 2 options, one that has a ported box at 41hz and another that's a dual slotted port tuned to 36hz.  From the little info I found, it seems that the wetsounds box tunings are incorrect because they don't factor in speaker displacement or port displacement. Soooo,

Can someone tell me the speaker displacement on the 12" sub 

Does anyone have feedback on a box they've used, good or bad and mind sharing the specs if good? (I have a 2006 23lsv) 

What should I tune this box to?  Wetsounds lowest hz is 36 but from I've read 32-35 is optimal, maybe? 

I'm also wondering what's the advantages of a slotted port vs building a 6 panel box with a precision port. The regular ported box would take half the time to build. 

Lastly, any idea how many batteries I should run with this setup?  Gonna have 2 wetsounds amps with 1200 each and another 500 watt amp for the boat speakers.   Currently have a 2 battery setup on a perko switch. 

Tyia 

 

 

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MLA
On 12/9/2018 at 11:35 PM, Vroom said:

I thought this would be easy peazy but I can't find squat about this sub,

Your retail dealer should be the first resource for these details and assistance. Enlist their assistance with the enclosure design, amp setup and tuning. IIRC, the displacement on the previous version was about 2.2 ft3. Im not sure the structure has changed a great deal on the V4. But to be sure, call the techs at wet sounds. 

Im not sure what is incorrect. The target internal ft3 should take into account the driver's displacement. With that said, that dual slot ported enclosure was designed by the crew at Hydrotunes. Im confident in that enclosures performance. The other round port enclosure was designed by a consumer, and he got a thumbs up from an installer, so no worries about its performance. With that said, you have some flexibility to to tune your own setup to your liking. With a 12" woofer in an open air environment, Id likely not want to tune too low beyond the suggested 41HZ, and would not tune higher, IMO. The lower you go, the harder the woofer and amp work. A middle of the road Hz, allows for a little more peak output from the setup. Beyond that, port area, length and net internal volume are the most important aspects to focus on.

There is no acoustical advantage between a round, slotted, square, etc. Its all about the parameters noted above. A round PVC or ABS Euro port might end up being a slightly smaller gross volume then a slot port. However, those precision ports have an exit flare thats 7.25" wide. This can make for a very wide or tall dimension to accommodate it.      

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Vroom

MLA:  Thank you for your feedback.  I've read many of your posts in the past few weeks, while researching on here, and have learned quite a bit. The wetsounds techs didn't have any info on the V4 sub.  They pointed me to the downloads section of their site which only had the V2 specs (0.159 displacement).   I suppose you're right--in that it hasn't changed--and I'm over thinking it.  

With regards to batteries, I'm looking to buy 2 (maybe 3) XS3000 batteries isolated to the stereo.  Do you think 2 would be enough to run 2900 watts for 3-4 hours at around 50% volume?

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MLA

Based on the V4 specs, im coming up with .18ft3 displacement. 

For your batteries. Id want to turn that amp wattage into an approximate DC current drain in amps at about 75% volume. Then use batteries' Ah rating to determine the play time at that draw. 

I would suggest a 30-40 amp charger for those batteries. 

I would not do a stand-alone house bank. Stereo starts drawing as soon as you hit the water, so that desired 3-4 hr play time, is already reduced from riding, by time you hit the party cove. 

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Vroom

Hmm that's hard to do and I've been realizing that from reading other posts. My boat is stored in an enclosed storage unit a couple of miles from the boat launch and there's no access to power.  I live 2 hours away so it makes it tough. Not sure how to solve that 

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MLA

A larger or 2nd alternator may be worth looking into, here's why. A typical alternator makes for a poor battery charger. They are not designed to recharge a depleted battery, but mainly replenish whats used to start the engine and maintain normal load. A huge stereo and a couple of xs3000 batteries, are far from normal load. 

Running the batteries low, then making a short run back to the ramp, means the batteries get put away not recharged. This takes a tole on them. Charging them up right before the next trip, is not good for them. Not recharging them has you launching the next trip already in the hole. 

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minnmarker

Bigger alternator and an ACR?  With no shore power for a charger you're looking for trouble as MLA says.

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MLA

One potential issue with a large house bank and an ACR, is that a deeply depleted high Ah battery can cause an ACR to cycle open and closed, over and over, until the enough charge gets into the battery that the voltage level keeps the ACR closed. With just a basic 1/2/BOTH switch, you can mechanically distribute the alternator output to the low house battery for a faster recovery. I do like the ACR for smaller house banks.

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minnmarker
21 minutes ago, MLA said:

One potential issue with a large house bank and an ACR, is that a deeply depleted high Ah battery can cause an ACR to cycle open and closed, over and over, until the enough charge gets into the battery that the voltage level keeps the ACR closed.

But doesn't that serve to protect the starter battery and the alternator?  Besides, wouldn't the amps shut down at a higher voltage than the ACR lockout voltage (10.8 volts) so it would never get that low anyway?

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MLA

There are lots of variables and no absolutes. You could argue that it will protect alternator, but then again, the alternator is only going to supply what its rated to, so wwhat are we really protecting it from? Higher output for a short time or lower output for a longer period. In this scenario where one does not have access to shore charging, you would need to make sure of as much alternator input you could, in a short amount of time.  

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Vroom

Not sure if it makes any difference but I do go out on a big lake, so we usually boat around at least 30-60  minutes  (the time it takes to get back to the boat launch) before pulling the boat out of the water (not counting the time idling while waiting to be pulled out).  If I can somehow get power to the boat, a regular car charger would be fine?  I'm thinking I can start bringing my little Honda generator.  Or would an upgraded alternator be sufficient, so I can call it a day on this?  I'm curious what other options there are because I can't be the only one with this dilemma.

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shawndoggy
55 minutes ago, Vroom said:

Not sure if it makes any difference but I do go out on a big lake, so we usually boat around at least 30-60  minutes  (the time it takes to get back to the boat launch) before pulling the boat out of the water (not counting the time idling while waiting to be pulled out).  If I can somehow get power to the boat, a regular car charger would be fine?  I'm thinking I can start bringing my little Honda generator.  Or would an upgraded alternator be sufficient, so I can call it a day on this?  I'm curious what other options there are because I can't be the only one with this dilemma.

It's not really a "dilemma," tho.  The answers are (1) shore charge (2) big alternator (balmar for a "good one," or cheap chinese knockoff for questionable reliabliity), or (3) more modest system.  

I can't find the thread, but pretty sure Grant West on wakeworld did a pretty detailed thread about a balmar alternator upgrade.  IIRC with voltage regulator and everything it was expensive.... like $2k or so.

 

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Vroom
47 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

It's not really a "dilemma," tho.  The answers are (1) shore charge (2) big alternator (balmar for a "good one," or cheap chinese knockoff for questionable reliabliity), or (3) more modest system.  

I can't find the thread, but pretty sure Grant West on wakeworld did a pretty detailed thread about a balmar alternator upgrade.  IIRC with voltage regulator and everything it was expensive.... like $2k or so.

 

Haha fair enough. One last question going back to the speaker box. I read somewhere that I can screw it directly to the floor but to stay about 5" from the edges and no more than 3/4" penetration. Does that sound about right? 

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Stevo

I’d recommend shimming it up off the floor to mitigate any moisture coming in contact with the box. In the past I’ve used some scrap trex material screwed to the floor, and then screw to box to the inert material.

and your 3/4 depth and 5inch edge sound acceptable 

Edited by Stevo

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minnmarker
20 minutes ago, Stevo said:

I’d recommend shimming it up off the floor to mitigate any moisture coming in contact with the box. In the past I’ve used some scrap trex material screwed to the floor, and then screw to box to the inert material.

and your 3/4 depth and 5inch edge sound acceptable 

These work great.  Box doesn't move at all.  Cheap and easy too.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ191Z6/

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Stevo
20 minutes ago, minnmarker said:

These work great.  Box doesn't move at all.  Cheap and easy too.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ191Z6/

 Went with the trex block over rubber feet only because I wanted to shim it up a little higher up off the floor so the hole in the kick panel was centered a little higher up.

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MLA

Any kind of synthetic or even aluminum, works well as a stand-off for the enclosure. In some cases, all or part of the enclosure might even be totally suspended by the facade. However, a heavy woofer like the XXX, id likely want its weight transferred to to the floor. 5" margin is likely good. You might even find that the floor mounted cubby pocket is screwed down closer then that. 

On trips like that, if you can access to a 110 AC outlet, take advantage of it for a couple hours. A small 10A car charger will do fine in this case, just dont leave it too long or unattended. 

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Vroom

thanks for your help guys.  I'll be sure the elevate the box and I'm going to order a new alternator as well.

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