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billstephenson7362

Stereo Delete on 19 23 LSV

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billstephenson7362

Just getting ready to order my 19 23 LSV, and strongly considering the stereo delete.  I really like the idea of having the RGB lighting on the cones of the interior boat speakers, and LED rings on the tower speakers.  From what I have researched this is quite difficult with the factory system. 

The tower speaker cans from Malibu are custom, so if you want the LED light rings you have to order them in white from Malibu, take them apart and tear off the white LED's, add the RGB's and re-install.  I would then have to buy speaker rings for all the interior boat speakers (Wet Sounds has LED cone lighting on their coaxial speakers, but Malibu has it removed for their installation).  I then have to wire the entire boat for the RGB lighting.  At that point, it just seems easier to me to go with the Stereo Delete option, buy all of the same components online that come with the boat from Malibu and install myself.  In doing so, I can run the Wet Sounds 6 strand wiring cable to all of the speakers and be set up immediately for RGB lighting, not have to buy any speaker rings for the interior boat speakers, and not have to modify the tower speaker rings. 

However, I am new to Malibu (drank the MC juice for 10 years), and before making this leap I want to make sure that I am understanding everything correctly, and more importantly am able to purchase the correct head unit and necessary cables to plug into the Malibu screens so everything works seamlessly.  I have read posts on people doing this on previous year models, but nothing on the 19s, so hoping someone can give me some clear direction here on what exactly needs to be done, and what needs to be bought.  I don't want to be the idiot that gets the boat that has the stereo that wont integrate with the dash or surf band!  LED lighting is cool, but not that important.  I also don't want to be the idiot that voids the warranty on the screens so need to be sure this doesn't interfere with that. 

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IXFE

Most of us who have done stereo delete did so knowing that we were abandoning factory integration. Typically you would just use a eq, bt, and your phone/Spotify. 

You give up some of the benefits of the factory system like seeing the artist and title listed on the screen (who cares?), the beeping which indicates your switching sides while surfing (kinda important if you like to switch), and ability to adjust tower speaker volume with the surf band (we never used that). 

The benefit is you also avoid all the noise issues that the factory system has.  My stereo delete boats have all had much cleaner, crisper, louder sound than the factory systems I’ve had.

Rebuilding all the factory components from scratch (ie black box) is probably possible assuming all the wiring is in the boat, I’ve just never seen it done or documented here. You might be the first!  Be sure to start a new thread and document everything!

personally I think it should be easier to start with a factory set up (sans tower speaker) and replace the cabins with the led units you like. Then do your own led tower speakers (ie add an amp). This is what I did last year (using Exile) only I didn’t bother with the cabin speaker LEDs 

@Ronnie probably is the best resource on the LED topic in the modern boats. 

BD8D84A6-496E-436F-AB2A-DF5BB6B612DC.jpeg

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COOP
On 11/30/2018 at 12:08 PM, billstephenson7362 said:

Just getting ready to order my 19 23 LSV, and strongly considering the stereo delete.  I really like the idea of having the RGB lighting on the cones of the interior boat speakers, and LED rings on the tower speakers.  From what I have researched this is quite difficult with the factory system. 

The tower speaker cans from Malibu are custom, so if you want the LED light rings you have to order them in white from Malibu, take them apart and tear off the white LED's, add the RGB's and re-install.  I would then have to buy speaker rings for all the interior boat speakers (Wet Sounds has LED cone lighting on their coaxial speakers, but Malibu has it removed for their installation).  I then have to wire the entire boat for the RGB lighting.  At that point, it just seems easier to me to go with the Stereo Delete option, buy all of the same components online that come with the boat from Malibu and install myself.  In doing so, I can run the Wet Sounds 6 strand wiring cable to all of the speakers and be set up immediately for RGB lighting, not have to buy any speaker rings for the interior boat speakers, and not have to modify the tower speaker rings. 

However, I am new to Malibu (drank the MC juice for 10 years), and before making this leap I want to make sure that I am understanding everything correctly, and more importantly am able to purchase the correct head unit and necessary cables to plug into the Malibu screens so everything works seamlessly.  I have read posts on people doing this on previous year models, but nothing on the 19s, so hoping someone can give me some clear direction here on what exactly needs to be done, and what needs to be bought.  I don't want to be the idiot that gets the boat that has the stereo that wont integrate with the dash or surf band!  LED lighting is cool, but not that important.  I also don't want to be the idiot that voids the warranty on the screens so need to be sure this doesn't interfere with that. 

There is nothing to tear out of the factory tower light rings. They are LED strips just like everyone uses. We have done several tower rings with factory parts and RGB lights. And if you want lights on the cones just order some Wet Sounds Revos and swap out the factory cabin speakers. Not to hard at all. You seem to making a bigger deal out of this than it is. Yes, you will still have to run wires, but thats pretty straight forward. And as stated above, if you do go with the factory delete, just be aware that NONE of the factory stereo options will work, like the sport knob volume, zone controls, or the factory bluetooth.

Edited by COOP

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IXFE

Good point, @COOP, I forgot about the sport knob. 

The other issue with stereo delete is that on the newer two-piece boats it’s ALOT harder to run wire from one side of the boat to the other. You also have the issue of needing to cutting a massive hole in the fiberglass to install a sub enclosure under the helm, then you have to fabricate some sort of custom panel to hide it all. Gone are the days of just making a new carpeted panel with factory carpet. 

I have done a DIY stereo project in every model year Malibu going back to 2012... several stereo delete builds. I’m not saying it’s impossible on a 2019, just a lot harder for a DIY than it used to be. 

Edited by IXFE

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shawndoggy
27 minutes ago, IXFE said:

I have done a DIY stereo project in every model year Malibu going back to 2012... several stereo delete builds. I’m not saying it’s impossible on a 2019, just a lot harder for a DIY than it used to be. 

Are you going factory this time?

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IXFE
52 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

Are you going factory this time?

Factory cabin, sub, and amp. Aftermarket tower speakers with LED’s. Same as I did last year (my “hybrid” amp board below). And just like last year I expect to have some noise plus latency in the knob. However, the factory Bluetooth worked flawlessly for me. 

I haven’t done a stereo delete build since the ‘17 23 LSV. As noted above, it’s just a lot harder (ie not worth the hassle) in the two piece boats. And I have less time to do it.  But make no mistake, the factory WS system does not sounds as good (to my ear) as the builds I was doing. I kinda miss that. 

Shoot, now ya got me thinking...

ED3DE0DB-5E20-4C1D-9770-90BBE27207E6.jpeg

Edited by IXFE

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granddaddy55

@billstephenson7362 those cone revo6 with Wetsounds controller with or without a source wire to controller (they can detect and hear on their own ) make noise in my boat when on with or without source , switching light switch ground from dash to battery snd hope to fix it , but I doubt it as there is noise when nothing on the dash is running , with or without source

maybe the Wetsounds integrated 6 pair wire alleviates the problem as well?

i keep meaning to re-check my rev 8 towers with ring (opposite of cone light) for noise when lights are on, if so it’s my install but as I remember it they don’t make noise and I think it’s the revo6

Edited by granddaddy55

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shawndoggy
1 hour ago, IXFE said:

Shoot, now ya got me thinking...

I haven't kept up... what are the stereo options?  Can you even just do HU + cabin speakers and add from there anymore?

Since they started doing the SG transfer alarm through the towers it does seem pretty "necessary" to at least get that factory wiring vs. full delete.  If there's ONE thing I could add to my T22 it would be that.

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Fman
21 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

I haven't kept up... what are the stereo options?  Can you even just do HU + cabin speakers and add from there anymore?

Since they started doing the SG transfer alarm through the towers it does seem pretty "necessary" to at least get that factory wiring vs. full delete.  If there's ONE thing I could add to my T22 it would be that.

There is the tower light option that will flash three times to signal a transfer.  I prefer the beeper but this is another option for someone with a complete stereo delete.

Malibu used to make it easier when they gave you an actual deduction off the boat price when you did a delete.  You could apply it to the purchase of your own system.  They clearly would prefer people check the stereo box and go with the factory system.

It definitely has been improving every year but still not a fan of the pre-set tuned amps.  I think @IXFE definitely has figured out the best recipe to order up a factory system and still customize it.

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IXFE
1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

I haven't kept up... what are the stereo options?  Can you even just do HU + cabin speakers and add from there anymore?

Since they started doing the SG transfer alarm through the towers it does seem pretty "necessary" to at least get that factory wiring vs. full delete.  If there's ONE thing I could add to my T22 it would be that.

2019 Stereo options & MSRP

Sound Pack (incl 8 WS cabin speakers, 4ch WS amp, and black box) $4,803

Sub (incl 12” WS sub, plastic box that still leaks, and upgrades the cabin amp to 5ch unit) $958

Dual Subs (incl two 12” WS subs. Not sure how it’s powered) $3,292

Rev10’s (only available in two pair) $4,692

Rev8’s (one pair) $2,025 / (two pair) $3,942

Icon 8’s (one pair) $1342 / (two pair) $2517

WS Tower amp (required with any tower speaker package, not available without) $1,100 

Sat Radio $750

Transom Remote $343

 

To to get the audible beep on transfers, you DON’T need factory tower speakers; you just need an RCA/remote adapter to plug your own amp into the proprietary, factory harness (pictured below). Many on this forum did just that with our 2018 boats. 

9BFBF87D-3303-4B0F-AEFC-3556E4FFEF43.jpeg

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Sparky450
2 hours ago, IXFE said:

Factory cabin, sub, and amp. Aftermarket tower speakers with LED’s. Same as I did last year (my “hybrid” amp board below). And just like last year I expect to have some noise plus latency in the knob. However, the factory Bluetooth worked flawlessly for me. 

I haven’t done a stereo delete build since the ‘17 23 LSV. As noted above, it’s just a lot harder (ie not worth the hassle) in the two piece boats. And I have less time to do it.  But make no mistake, the factory WS system does not sounds as good (to my ear) as the builds I was doing. I kinda miss that. 

Shoot, now ya got me thinking...

ED3DE0DB-5E20-4C1D-9770-90BBE27207E6.jpeg

Being a guy that likes CLEAN, loud music, I went stereo delete. It took me a long time to decide. However I talked to a lot of people before making my decision. They all said “if you have had aftermarket, you will not be happy with the factory system” 

Yes I give up integration. However I would rather have sound quality. 

I have been told that if you get the SP1. The axis head unit will integrate them you have integration. From there you can build your system on the outputs. I was not willing to try. 

I almost went with the factory head unit and in boats as IXFE is suggesting. After talking to multiple stereo guys I decided not to. 

Edited by Sparky450

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IXFE
12 minutes ago, Sparky450 said:

Being a guy that likes CLEAN, loud music, I went stereo delete. It took me a long time to decide. However I talked to a lot of people before making my decision. They all said “if you have had aftermarket, you will not be happy with the factory system” 

Yes I give up integration. However I would rather have sound quality. 

I have been told that if you get the SP1. The axis head unit will integrate them you have integration. From there you can build your system on the outputs. I was not willing to try. 

I almost went with the factory head unit and in boats as IXFE is suggesting. After talking to multiple stereo guys I decided not to. 

I’ve gone both ways so I definitely see your point. Plus, there’s nothing like firing up a new system you’ve built for the first time. Gives me goosebumps just thinking about it. 

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IXFE
55 minutes ago, Fman said:

There is the tower light option that will flash three times to signal a transfer.  I prefer the beeper but this is another option for someone with a complete stereo delete.

Malibu used to make it easier when they gave you an actual deduction off the boat price when you did a delete.  You could apply it to the purchase of your own system.  They clearly would prefer people check the stereo box and go with the factory system.

It definitely has been improving every year but still not a fan of the pre-set tuned amps.  I think @IXFE definitely has figured out the best recipe to order up a factory system and still customize it.

Thanks, Trav. For me, I just couldn’t swallow the factory pricing for Rev10’s (see above). Plus, I’ve read they are not that loud anyway. And I’ve had the factory Rev8’s and wasn’t impressed. So....

Considering the fact that adding tower speakers and a couple of amps is so easy, it seemed like a good compromise for me. And the results were solid. It’s a setup most folks would be very happy with. But I gotta admit, the factory 8” cabin speakers don’t put out the same mid bass as the 8’s in your boat. Man, I miss that sound. Remind me... do you have the sport knob on yours?

I’m actually kinda anxious for somebody to document a stereo delete on one of the newer two piece boats. 

Edited by IXFE

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shawndoggy
34 minutes ago, IXFE said:

To to get the audible beep on transfers, you DON’T need factory tower speakers; you just need an RCA/remote adapter to plug your own amp into the proprietary, factory harness (pictured below). Many on this forum did just that with our 2018 boats. 

9BFBF87D-3303-4B0F-AEFC-3556E4FFEF43.jpeg

Right but if you go full delete you can't do this can you?

Edited by shawndoggy

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Sparky450
27 minutes ago, IXFE said:

Thanks, Trav. For me, I just couldn’t swallow the factory pricing for Rev10’s (see above). Plus, I’ve read they are not that loud anyway. And I’ve had the factory Rev8’s and wasn’t impressed. So....

Considering the fact that adding tower speakers and a couple of amps is so easy, it seemed like a good compromise for me. And the results were solid. It’s a setup most folks would be very happy with. But I gotta admit, the factory 8” cabin speakers don’t put out the same mid bass as the 8’s in your boat. Man, I miss that sound. Remind me... do you have the sport knob on yours?

I’m actually kinda anxious for somebody to document a stereo delete on one of the newer two piece boats. 

I built my last first one with the help of a professional that tuned it.

Mine needed some love last year and I didn’t have the time to do it. I had a different shop do it and  I was not happy all year. It just didn’t have what I was looking for. 

This year with the new one I am on a 5 month waiting list. He knows it will be in mid to the end of February. I am sure I will be happy this year🤪😎

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IXFE
1 hour ago, shawndoggy said:

Right but if you go full delete you can't do this can you?

That’s right. My point was simply that you don’t need factory tower speakers to get the beep. But without that proprietary black box, you’re hosed 

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Ronnie

If you go stereo delete, the light harness is still there for transfers. You could add the lights and I'm sure with a little tinkering you could figure out how the make the Factory stereo delete/aftermarket tower speakers make some kind of noise through them for the transfers.

I don't run factory tower speakers or lights. I run one pair of Rev10's. I do add courtesy lights where my second set of tower speakers would bolt on. The factory harness is there for 2 sets of "Tower Lights".They are switched on the 7" screen. One is switched on and off and the other is switched on and off but will flash for transfers. The on and off, I use for tower speaker LED rings. The on and off with flashing transfers I use for the courtesy lights. I make the light holders, the lights are LED and the lenses direct the light down 30 degrees so it lights up the cabin area. Plus they do flash when doing transfers and your not using the courtesy lights when doing transfers so they are reallly dual propose. You could add your aftermarket lights or buzzer or what ever you need to be alerted that the transfer is about to happen to that harness.

 

IMG_9429.jpg

IMG_9381.jpg

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Dwake
23 hours ago, Ronnie said:

If you go stereo delete, the light harness is still there for transfers. You could add the lights and I'm sure with a little tinkering you could figure out how the make the Factory stereo delete/aftermarket tower speakers make some kind of noise through them for the transfers.

I don't run factory tower speakers or lights. I run one pair of Rev10's. I do add courtesy lights where my second set of tower speakers would bolt on. The factory harness is there for 2 sets of "Tower Lights".They are switched on the 7" screen. One is switched on and off and the other is switched on and off but will flash for transfers. The on and off, I use for tower speaker LED rings. The on and off with flashing transfers I use for the courtesy lights. I make the light holders, the lights are LED and the lenses direct the light down 30 degrees so it lights up the cabin area. Plus they do flash when doing transfers and your not using the courtesy lights when doing transfers so they are reallly dual propose. You could add your aftermarket lights or buzzer or what ever you need to be alerted that the transfer is about to happen to that harness.

 

IMG_9429.jpg

IMG_9381.jpg

Do tell, how do you make those side courtesy lights.  They look really useful.  

 

23 hours ago, Ronnie said:

If you go stereo delete, the light harness is still there for transfers. You could add the lights and I'm sure with a little tinkering you could figure out how the make the Factory stereo delete/aftermarket tower speakers make some kind of noise through them for the transfers.

I don't run factory tower speakers or lights. I run one pair of Rev10's. I do add courtesy lights where my second set of tower speakers would bolt on. The factory harness is there for 2 sets of "Tower Lights".They are switched on the 7" screen. One is switched on and off and the other is switched on and off but will flash for transfers. The on and off, I use for tower speaker LED rings. The on and off with flashing transfers I use for the courtesy lights. I make the light holders, the lights are LED and the lenses direct the light down 30 degrees so it lights up the cabin area. Plus they do flash when doing transfers and your not using the courtesy lights when doing transfers so they are reallly dual propose. You could add your aftermarket lights or buzzer or what ever you need to be alerted that the transfer is about to happen to that harness.

 

IMG_9429.jpg

IMG_9381.jpg

Do tell, how do you make those side courtesy lights.  They looke very useful 

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Ronnie

I machine them out of ABS plastic 1/2” sheet. This is a plastic that accepts and holds paint well if prepped correctly.

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billstephenson7362
On 12/1/2018 at 5:26 PM, IXFE said:

2019 Stereo options & MSRP

Sound Pack (incl 8 WS cabin speakers, 4ch WS amp, and black box) $4,803

Sub (incl 12” WS sub, plastic box that still leaks, and upgrades the cabin amp to 5ch unit) $958

Dual Subs (incl two 12” WS subs. Not sure how it’s powered) $3,292

Rev10’s (only available in two pair) $4,692

Rev8’s (one pair) $2,025 / (two pair) $3,942

Icon 8’s (one pair) $1342 / (two pair) $2517

WS Tower amp (required with any tower speaker package, not available without) $1,100 

Sat Radio $750

Transom Remote $343

 

To to get the audible beep on transfers, you DON’T need factory tower speakers; you just need an RCA/remote adapter to plug your own amp into the proprietary, factory harness (pictured below). Many on this forum did just that with our 2018 boats. 

9BFBF87D-3303-4B0F-AEFC-3556E4FFEF43.jpeg

Could you please tell me which RCA/Remote Adapter to order, and where?  After reading all the comments, seems like ordering the factory system without tower speakers is the way to go and build from there.  Really appreciate the advice!

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Pnwrider
56 minutes ago, billstephenson7362 said:

Could you please tell me which RCA/Remote Adapter to order, and where?  After reading all the comments, seems like ordering the factory system without tower speakers is the way to go and build from there.  Really appreciate the advice!

Call or email exile audio. It used to be on their website but I can’t seem to find it. Google only brings up an old link that no longer works (screenshot below but that’s what you need)... 

DECE46B8-888E-40B4-B3C2-977811F09CD4.png

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billstephenson7362

They are having an issue with the website, so have a different version up right now so old links are not working.  Will be resolved shortly, but still have the part available.  Thanks a ton!

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CJAY
On 12/1/2018 at 10:21 AM, IXFE said:

Most of us who have done stereo delete did so knowing that we were abandoning factory integration. Typically you would just use a eq, bt, and your phone/Spotify. 

You give up some of the benefits of the factory system like seeing the artist and title listed on the screen (who cares?), the beeping which indicates your switching sides while surfing (kinda important if you like to switch), and ability to adjust tower speaker volume with the surf band (we never used that). 

The benefit is you also avoid all the noise issues that the factory system has.  My stereo delete boats have all had much cleaner, crisper, louder sound than the factory systems I’ve had.

Rebuilding all the factory components from scratch (ie black box) is probably possible assuming all the wiring is in the boat, I’ve just never seen it done or documented here. You might be the first!  Be sure to start a new thread and document everything!

personally I think it should be easier to start with a factory set up (sans tower speaker) and replace the cabins with the led units you like. Then do your own led tower speakers (ie add an amp). This is what I did last year (using Exile) only I didn’t bother with the cabin speaker LEDs 

@Ronnie probably is the best resource on the LED topic in the modern boats. 

BD8D84A6-496E-436F-AB2A-DF5BB6B612DC.jpeg

That's basically what I did on my last two boats, instead of going stereo delete I just replaced everything, and didn't order the sub and tower speakers(saved money this way for new components).  Mad it where I could integrate still, but also have a higher end system.  The only issue with 2017 and newer is your will either need the RCA adapters or have to add the RCA's into the custom harness yourself.  

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IXFE
30 minutes ago, CJAY said:

That's basically what I did on my last two boats, instead of going stereo delete I just replaced everything, and didn't order the sub and tower speakers(saved money this way for new components).  Mad it where I could integrate still, but also have a higher end system.  The only issue with 2017 and newer is your will either need the RCA adapters or have to add the RCA's into the custom harness yourself.  

Turns out the RCA adapters aren't that hard to find.  Some guys are even making their own.  

The part that makes my head hurt is the sub.  IMHO, it's the weakest link in the new WS factory setup (still much much better than the old RF junk).  But it's not an easy swap like it was on the older boats.  With the new two-piece boats the factory box (plastic and not necessarily sealed that well) is installed before the topdeck and hull come together.  The hole behind the billet speaker grill isn't big enough to get a new box in there.  If you don't order the sub at all (which would be the way to go) you just get a solid fiberglass wall under the helm. So you get to cut a HUGE hole in your new boat (i.e. measure 100x and cut once, lol).  Then plan, measure out, and install the new box.  Then fab up something to cover it all up and hopefully not look ghetto.  I dunno... just seems like a lot of risk/headache.  I know a shop here that has done a few custom subs in the newer boats, but they look "just okay" for me.  Working with the factory carpet panel was alot easier.    

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shawndoggy
1 hour ago, IXFE said:

Turns out the RCA adapters aren't that hard to find.  Some guys are even making their own.  

The part that makes my head hurt is the sub.  IMHO, it's the weakest link in the new WS factory setup (still much much better than the old RF junk).  But it's not an easy swap like it was on the older boats.  With the new two-piece boats the factory box (plastic and not necessarily sealed that well) is installed before the topdeck and hull come together.  The hole behind the billet speaker grill isn't big enough to get a new box in there.  If you don't order the sub at all (which would be the way to go) you just get a solid fiberglass wall under the helm. So you get to cut a HUGE hole in your new boat (i.e. measure 100x and cut once, lol).  Then plan, measure out, and install the new box.  Then fab up something to cover it all up and hopefully not look ghetto.  I dunno... just seems like a lot of risk/headache.  I know a shop here that has done a few custom subs in the newer boats, but they look "just okay" for me.  Working with the factory carpet panel was alot easier.    

I dunno... a nice trim panel over the hole will cover a lot of sins.  I remember after taking the walkthrough trim panels off on my 14 that it looked like the cubby holes had been cut by a drunk guy freehanding it with a plunge router.  haha even where the studs came through from the trim panel in to the observer's compartment, the holes were YUGE (yay fender washers!).  But with the panel and cubby bolted down it looked great.

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