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Ryan1776

Loss of display on the Radio buttons and Viper-Audio screen only

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Ryan1776

Good morning everyone. 
So yesterday I decided to get my sub and amp in my boat.
2010 LSV 
I removed the 3 screws that hold the audio board out and laid it down so I could see behind it.
Found the sub pre outs from the controller. Cake. Plugged in my RCA patch cables.
Drilled two holes for the power leads. Ran those to the "front" of the board. Screwed down my amp. Plugged it all in. 
VIOLA. Amp came on. Jack pot. 
Pulled my speaker wire across to the sub, connected that. Cool. 
Turned on the key.... no info on the screens.  SEE VID. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPWbrhsIxx8


Now earlier I had the key on and all worked well. In fact, while the radio screen didn't work the Viper screen did. Now the Viper screen doesn't work either. 
All other displays do work. All buttons work. 
In full disclosure, I was messing around under the dash with the sub box itself checking fitment. Is there anything under that I could have messed up that wouldn't affect any other screen output? 

Secondary to this right now, I have no output from the sub. Besides the level control within the menus, which I can no longer see, is there something else I needed to "engage" or turn on? 

Thanks everyone! 

Ryan

 

PS just realized I probably put this under the wrong forum sub set. :oops:

 

Edited by Ryan1776

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MLA

Id start with battery voltage. Next, letting the amp wall down can easily pull any of the 3 power wires loose, or the remote cable that runs over to the helm. Now, neither of these 4 connecting will impact the viper screen coming on, just the loss of the stereo control on the viper. If the black box does not power up or the data cable is not there, there is nothing to show up on the viper.  

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Ryan1776
13 minutes ago, MLA said:

Id start with battery voltage. Next, letting the amp wall down can easily pull any of the 3 power wires loose, or the remote cable that runs over to the helm. Now, neither of these 4 connecting will impact the viper screen coming on, just the loss of the stereo control on the viper. If the black box does not power up or the data cable is not there, there is nothing to show up on the viper.  

Ya know, I thought batt as well and put both on the charger last night. Same issue. 
Love it. So most likely I disrupted one of the cables behind the amp board. 

Odd though that the actual radio controller didn't work but the Viper did....then didn't. 

Thank you!

Edited by Ryan1776

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Ryan1776
On 11/16/2018 at 8:13 AM, MLA said:

Id start with battery voltage. Next, letting the amp wall down can easily pull any of the 3 power wires loose, or the remote cable that runs over to the helm. Now, neither of these 4 connecting will impact the viper screen coming on, just the loss of the stereo control on the viper. If the black box does not power up or the data cable is not there, there is nothing to show up on the viper.  

Hey man, So I pulled the amp board back down today. Finally. And started playing with some things. 

IF the remote cable is plugged into the "JBL Black Box" controller, the Viper display kinda sorta acts funny about 99% of the time. 
Meaning the information will not update on the screen. I can control the functions, but I have no idea what I'm actually doing. Meaning. Changing freq, volume, etc it will react, but will not display. 

As soon as I unplug the remote from the JBL controller, the Viper display is 100% effective. All the time. Everything works as it should. 

The remote controller in the back by the engine works the same way. It won't update but will control the functions. 
That kinda sorta leads me to believe that the JBL black box controller itself isn't working properly. 3

Thoughts?

PS-I did have the batts on a charge for a while and it didn't make a difference. It's low again, maybe 11.3volts key on. So I'll put it on the charger again.

Thank you! 

 

Update. Charged over night 14.0 volts. Same issue. Unplugging and plugging back in the controller, sometimes I get info on the screen sometimes it's blank. But all the time, it locks up the Viper screen. 

Checked to see if the Viper DIN connector and the MUX (I think it's called) controller share the same style plug, they do. 

So I swapped them. Zero changes. So that would assume that the outputs of the Black Box are good. Unless something magically shorted internally. Interesting point of observation. When plugging in the Viper cable, sometimes the signal on the local strong FM station would get worse. Tried this 3-4 times. 
Is there a way to check that MUX controller, or whatever it's called?

Ryan 

Edited by Ryan1776

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Ryan1776

Turns out. 

I’m an idiot. Bypassed the din extension cable and it worked fine. Ok cool. Definitely the long patch cable. 

:Frustrated: blew a screw right through the middle of it. 

Looks like I really only hurt one wire 100%. I’ll take it apart in my ham shack and fix it. 

:oops:

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wdr

While you are at it messing with the amp board. IIWM, I would strain relieve, tape, wire loom and otherwise secure every freaking wire and connection on the back of the amp board! I have been there and done that 10 or 15 times too many looking for loose connections that got rattled loose from an otherwise “clean install”. I hate the BB with a passion.

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Ryan1776
16 hours ago, wdr said:

While you are at it messing with the amp board. IIWM, I would strain relieve, tape, wire loom and otherwise secure every freaking wire and connection on the back of the amp board! I have been there and done that 10 or 15 times too many looking for loose connections that got rattled loose from an otherwise “clean install”. I hate the BB with a passion.

It's absolutely atrocious. 

New problem, I use a BT receiver into the 3.5mm jack in the "glove compartment" it now sounds as if it's missing a channel. I unplugged each RCA connector one at a time and it did get worse with each plug. So it does appear to be getting both channels. But the sound isn't there, again like it's missing a channel. The sub doesn't work either.

I'm assuming the output from the Black Box is the same regardless of the input, so I should concentrate on the input side. 

YES I'm beginning to hate the BB with a passion as well. 

What's the story with the wetsounds MC-1 is that a replacement for the BB? I know I'd lose the Viper integration, but does it have the same capabilities as the WS420s  built in? Or would that be in additional unit? 

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MLA

If you did indeed have a missing left or right, you should be able to confirm this as half the in-boats and half the towers would be silent. 

Plug the BT directly into the black box's AUX-in, shipping the 3.5mm jack and its cabling. See what you get. if other modes play both left and right, then its not balance. Connect an MP# player direct to the in-puts and see if both chnls play. 

1 hour ago, Ryan1776 said:

but does it have the same capabilities as the WS420s  built in? Or would that be in additional unit? 

The MC1 has 4-zone volume, where as the 420SQ/BT has 3 zones. The MC1 has blue tooth, where as the SQ does not. The 420SQ/BT have dual 4-band EQ. Dual as in one set for tower zone and one set for in-boat zone. MC-1 has 3 band EQ that attenuates all zone equally. 

The MC1 supports remotes, has tuner, USB, can drive up to 4 pair of 4 ohm speakers. Rear AUX-IN and OUT. SAT ready. Weather Band. Has the ability to control 4-zone RGB LEDs. 

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Ryan1776
On 12/31/2018 at 1:51 PM, MLA said:

The MC1 has 4-zone volume, where as the 420SQ/BT has 3 zones. The MC1 has blue tooth, where as the SQ does not. The 420SQ/BT have dual 4-band EQ. Dual as in one set for tower zone and one set for in-boat zone. MC-1 has 3 band EQ that attenuates all zone equally. 

The MC1 supports remotes, has tuner, USB, can drive up to 4 pair of 4 ohm speakers. Rear AUX-IN and OUT. SAT ready. Weather Band. Has the ability to control 4-zone RGB LEDs. 

Sorry was out of town a while. 

So can I simply remove the JBL black box and controller and “plug and play” the MC1 in its place without having to do anything else? 

Meaning right now I still have the factory 2 amps. One for all in-boat and one for the towers. Plus my added sub. 

I can run my outputs to those amps as it is now and now I’ll have independent level controls and EQ?

No other crazy wiring needed? 

I do understand I’ll obviously lose my Viper and rear stereo control. But really, I never used either one. 

I picked up the MC1 NIB off eBay for 425 shipped. From a highly rated company. Not an individual seller. Could not pass it up. 

Thank you again for all your help! 

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MLA

It wont quite be plug-n-play, but any highly rated co should be able to walk you through the details. 

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Ryan1776
35 minutes ago, MLA said:

It wont quite be plug-n-play, but any highly rated co should be able to walk you through the details. 

That’s ok. Just wondering what I got into. Hahaha. I have no problems with electrical stuff. Doesn’t scare me. 

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